Rockfax Description
Often regarded as THE Lancashire classic. Start up the crack in the left side of the buttress (awkward 5a) then tackle the fine finger-crack splitting the centre of the upper tower. It is best done in a single pitch. © Rockfax

FA. Les Ainsworth 1968

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, Very good routes in the UK, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Lancashire's Finest, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Hidden 11/Nov/17 TR dog
Mark Collins 06/Sep/17 TR dog
with Derek Robinson
fuzzysheep01 02/Sep/17 Lead dog

Pumped out and rested on crux - deceptively pumpy but excellent.

Violinist 02/Sep/17 2nd O/S

Basically onsight. Left some gear in and got it on lower off.

with Joe
HannahGo 06/Aug/17 2nd dog

We climbed the first half of Fools Gold and the second half of this.

with Sam P, Cal Wilson
Nafclimbsrocks 13/Jul/17 Lead dog

So close!!! Saved this beauty for almost 2 years and thought I could bag the on-sight. Very dirty and hasn't been climbed for a while, but made it to the crux and got pumped - All I needed to do was bring my left foot up but couldn't figure it :( The sting in the tail at the end was also one heck of a surprise! Will work this a bit and get it clean!

with Rob (LCCC)
Kris2fa 15/Jun/17 2nd dog
with Adam24B
Adam24B 15/Jun/17 Lead O/S


JRJG 25/May/17 TR dnf
with Dave, Shep
JRJG 18/May/17 TR dnf
Martin Haworth 14/May/17 Lead O/S
Flavio 06/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/17 2nd rpt
kasha_gregson 22/Apr/17 2nd dog
with Bram
BTphonehome 22/Apr/17 Lead dog

Fail number 2 [insert expletive]. Great climbing. Back soon!

with Kasha
Jan.Hrb 15/Apr/17 TR
with Matus
Elliot King LC&CC 11/Apr/17 Lead dog

Second time still dogged it gutted!

with Ian solby
samrad 27/Mar/17 Lead rpt
with Dominique
FreddieSmith 06/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Joyous, a nest of lady birds half way up proved good company for the half height rest.

tom russell 22/Jan/17 Lead O/S
with mike
mshorter 22/Jan/17 Lead β
with tom
Hidden ?/Dec/16 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 05/Nov/16 2nd
with Tess, Ben Silvestre
jfarebrother 31/Oct/16 Lead
Hoyes 22/Oct/16 Lead dnf

One to return to!

with Rachael H
Dr Toph 08/Oct/16 Solo O/S

Surprisingly straightforward if you are ok with cracks. Easier than Fools Gold for sure. Good fun moves in both halves.

Sophie Nunn 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Jim Jones
Hidden 18/Sep/16 2nd dog
monkeyman79 05/Sep/16 2nd dog

Hungover and forgot climbing shoes. Seconded in approach shoes. Managed to get 3/4 of the way up where the finger lock and poor hold are. Fell a couple of times then grunted my way up it.

with Rick Kerr
Kasia Rzepka 29/Aug/16 2nd
1poundSOCKS 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Not the best choice of warm-up. Lower crack was wet and the upper crack was dirty. Dispatched quite quickly though, all over in about 2 hours. :/

Chris Wright 07/Aug/16 2nd
millsy 03/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Craig Smith
GeoffG 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with tim lowe
Andrew Holden 12/May/16 Lead
Hidden 04/May/16 Lead dog
Tommyoshea 23/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Good gear, top is a bit harder than it looks from below. Great route though.

tessa teapot ??/2016 Lead
Hidden ??/2016 -
samrad 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S

ace route.

with mike
MichaelGallimore 01/Nov/15 2nd rpt
with samrad
mattnuttall 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Ozzy Kate
GPN 10/Oct/15 Lead β
with Annette
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S


with Roisin
datoon 19/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with K
darrenpp ?/Sep/15 TR dog
BTphonehome 31/Aug/15 Lead dog

Brilliant climbing, superb line and safe as it gets. Gutted to fluff it at the upper crux - wrong handed and too pumped. Great fun.

with Tony
tmawer 31/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Bram
Hidden 04/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Owen W-G 04/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Soft touch we thought. 9 runners above ledge, with only the top 2 placed on summit push. Became very intimate with the holds after downclimbing them so many times! Start is a typical grit HVS pig.

Dave Warburton 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
ChrisNaylor ?/Aug/15 Lead
mb_manchester 22/Jul/15 Lead G/U

OMG! A must! First section scary without a lot of gear before the ledge is reached. Second pitch is a crux but with at least 4 placements, you are safe (until you get to the top, where it is unprotected). Overall, great route, great finish and great success.

with Mark
Derek Furze 21/Jul/15 2nd

Great climbing. Quite tough starting section. Top crack really well-protected

with Duncan Parker
BigTone 27/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Not again

Nigel Bond 25/Jun/15 Lead G/U
with Bern Hardman
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/15 2nd
Nigel Bond 13/May/15 Lead
AndyPratt88 07/May/15 2nd
with Jim
JimHolmes69 07/May/15 Lead O/S

Very disappointing.

john lynch 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Bethan D
Hidden ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Mike(Dad)
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke 27/Jul/14 -
John sealey 22/Jun/14 2nd
with si witcher
switch 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

A lively bat is in residence in the crack above the halfway ledge.

with John S
manwithacam 12/Jun/14 2nd
with Mark, Alan
The Grist 12/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Alan Barnes
Leo Woodhead 31/May/14 Lead β

Chuffed to have finally led this route after seconding it in the past. It's a route of two halves. Surpisingly I cruised the bottom section. The crux was the finger crack in the top section. Ran it out after the crux. Never desperate and lovely climbing!

Climbster 31/May/14 Lead β

Flashed in one pitch, on (some of) the gear placed by Leo. So, not a true onsight but a v. nice line all the same :)

with Leo
erictant 18/May/14 TR RP

Didn't do top-out.

with Paul
John Gale 17/May/14 Lead dog
bwestwood 16/May/14 Lead
robman 12/May/14 Lead RP

8 years and 2 other attempts..finally!

Chris Reid 03/May/14 Lead
BigTone 20/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Mind not in the right place!

Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
miles01 18/Apr/14 Lead dnf
with nick day
jshields 13/Apr/14 Lead
davewsargent 13/Apr/14 2nd dog
with mike dowsett, jon shields
Mike Hood 19/Mar/14 Lead
with Nathan
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
cem 12/Oct/13 Lead β

Can't really claim the onsight as I backed off it a few years ago and still had some recollection of it.

Kirill 12/Oct/13 2nd O/S
MischaHY 12/Oct/13 Lead

Well protected with an obvious crux. Excellent!

petekeron 30/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Barry Scott
Coel Hellier 11/Aug/13 Lead
Elliot King LC&CC 08/Aug/13 Lead dog

Want to go back and try clean lead!! Found this hard and quite difficult sequences!!

with Adrian
MichaelGallimore 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S

My first E2! Had to climb back down to the halfway ledge due to pre-crux pump. Shook out and got the ascent clean. The holds are all there, just don't get pumped.

with Andy Cmc
Goose4 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with April Derbyshire
Mike Hood 19/Apr/13 Lead dog
Grant Fulton 21/Oct/12 2nd dog
with Joe Fennel
joe_lancs 21/Oct/12 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Oct/12 TR dog
ozzie35 25/Jul/12 TR
with dave dillon
nepsoi999 29/May/12 Lead O/S

Mini epic. Took a cam out as it was in my jam then kicked my top cam as I lunged for the block near the top. Great route though

with pete
Alex Munnery 02/May/12 TR O/S
DANBO 01/Apr/12 Lead dog

lovely route with plenty of gear when you really need it if you have the stamina to place it, i'd recommend a preplaced anchor/rope at the top and a quick clean up as the top outs loose and dusty when your pumped (which you will be!). my first E2 onsight, had to take 1 rest before the crux :-(

PeteH 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Almost backed off the crux! Just feels hard to commit to.

with Chris Moxon
Hidden 02/Mar/12 2nd
gb05 02/Mar/12 Lead dog

Absolute mess, but by far the hardest I've had to try for a route yet. Just happy I stuck with it to the top. Will come back now I've got the moves sorted. Amazing line, great fun in hindsight, not so much at the time!

with Bec Hurst, Claire Hoolohan
climbing son ?/Jan/12 TR β
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Jacob Bloodworth ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Nov/11 2nd dog
cat22 13/Nov/11 2nd

In the dark!

with Mike
Hidden 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 16/Oct/11 Lead rpt

Good clean fast bosh up this today unlike yesterday...

g1m147 25/Sep/11 2nd
with Mick.
bigglesbutcha 26/Jul/11 TR O/S

Half seconded, half top roped. Swifty got 3/4 of the way, but lowered off, good effort though.

with Swifty
will9911 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with ade
Hidden 20/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Chriswallis2 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Anna
Glenn Sutcliffe 30/Apr/11 -
with Charl
PAJames ??/2011 -
Rachel Slater 31/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/10 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Little B 18/Oct/10 2nd dog
with Paolo
design crisis 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with frith
jtree03 26/Sep/10 Lead dog
with Brother Al
sparkass 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S

There was a family of bats living in the crack just above the ledge. Can avoid disturbing them by climbing slightly right for a couple of metres.

jiles 16/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Alex Winter
Hidden 13/Jul/10 Lead dog
will6459 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Sam Crabb
JulesV 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
climbing_rocks1983 15/May/10 TR RP
with Kieran
mickJ 08/May/10 2nd dog
with Nick and Mike
kjbix 11/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
CMoore ??/2010 2nd
philw ??/2010 -
Hidden 25/Oct/09 2nd
cem 25/Oct/09 Lead dnf

Too much beer the night before

Diggler 26/Sep/09 Lead dog

Though I could onsite this one hahaha first section a bit bold getting to the ledge but went OK. Second section from the ledge bomb proof gear all the way to the top but supper pumpy and sustained.

with Calder
Calder 26/Sep/09 2nd
with Mark
adam06 19/Jun/09 2nd

first pitch only. glad we arnt the only ones who felt this wasnt "easy for the garde" as our guide book stated

with chris white
khawk 23/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with DT
Lunar25 ??/2009 Lead rpt
with Stacy Oliver
steven 18/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Brian Hull
derico 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S

A really good route with soo many amazing moves and bomber gear!

with Dave Hollows
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Aug/08 2nd dog
lost.arrow 25/May/08 -
Rachel S 10/Feb/08 2nd
with Des Chadderton
dan1stdan 06/Jan/08 TR dnf

Barely got off the ground on this one as it was cold and wet with plenty of slime and sand to boot.Still it was the first rock I attempted to climb.

with Mark
dave mann ??/2008 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
John Southworth 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/07 2nd rpt
kitkat78 15/Sep/07 2nd
with SteveM
DavidR 15/Sep/07 Lead dog
SteveM 15/Sep/07 Lead dnf
with Kat
scouser666 08/Sep/07 TR dog

what a great climb going again really tired but fun doing it again sometime some places were not tidy rubbish in some place put i think its just people leaving rubbish there not climbers other people

with fedster187
scouser666 08/Sep/07 TR dog

what a great climb going again really tired but fun doing it again sometime some places were not tidy rubbish in some place put i think its just people leaving rubbish there not climbers other people

with fedster187
Hidden 08/Sep/07 TR O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jun/07 2nd
Johann ??/2007 Lead dog
with Dan Price
Rich Kirby ??/2007 2nd rpt
with Hugh
robman 12/Oct/06 Lead dog

cleaned first pitch dogged the second

with Tim
Kyuzo 11/Sep/06 Lead dog

Top crack could do with a bit a a clean, seemed as though rain had washed dirt onto everything near the top.

with Leo Warren
Hidden 30/Jul/06 TR dnf
kitch01 10/Jun/06 TR O/S
with terry webb
Stig 04/Jun/06 Lead dnf
with Maciek
robman 03/Apr/06 2nd dog

compleated in dark, will lead next time. few tricky moves at the top.

with Tim
Brown 18/Nov/05 2nd β
with Henry
chrishedgehog 17/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Mark Gill
Hidden 28/Aug/05 Lead
Mark Stevenson 30/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Rich Mayfield
Hidden 26/Jun/05 Lead dog
Ben1983 ?/Jun/05 Lead dog
Martin Bennett 17/May/05 -
with MD
Hidden ??/2005 Lead rpt
middlevern ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
rovers777 ?/Aug/04 Lead
nige 11/May/04 Lead O/S
with dave kells
dan_o_b ?/May/04 2nd O/S
Rik Dawes ??/2004 Lead O/S
datoon 27/Aug/03 Lead
with RT
Mark Collins 10/May/03 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Adam Lincoln ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Chris Wright ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
col finnegan 13/Jul/00 -

Various youth groups including blind awareness day. Interesting and varied mix of groups.

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Pete Swanson
nick bamber ??/2000 - ??/2000 2nd
D Tempest 31/May/99 2nd
with Rick
col finnegan 11/Apr/99 Lead
Marti999 ??/1999 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/98 AltLd
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
uphillnow 23/Apr/97 Lead O/S

Done perhaps 3 times. Cant recall if this date was the first time or one of the later ascents

Chris Reid 08/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Dave Plummer
phardman 31/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/95 2nd
ellie macpherson ?/Aug/95 Lead dnf

Through the first pitch with no trauma, messed up at 2/3 height. tried to hand swap on a pinch hold rather than down climb. The rest is history. He's out of there!

Hidden 22/Jul/95 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 19/Jun/95 Lead β
with Matt Hirst
Dave Westby ??/1995 Lead dnf

Got to 1 or 2 feet from top. Thin crack.... Top roped it though. Still hard.

with Garry Nuttal
Hidden ??/1995 -
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
Duncan Bourne 04/Jun/94 TR
with P Agnew
mattnuttall 21/Jun/93 2nd rpt
with John Stringfellow
Stoney Boy 08/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Neil McCallum
Mick King 14/Apr/93 Lead dog
with Simon Walsh
SR1970 ??/1993 Lead O/S
CBA ??/1993 -
Mick King 19/Jun/92 Lead
with Simon Walsh
whispering nic ?/May/92 -
with Graham Iles
Hidden ??/1992 2nd
Eduardo Martinez 09/Sep/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/91 Lead
Mick King 30/May/91 2nd

First experience of E2

with Pete Hankinson
adi bryant 10/May/91 Lead O/S

First E2:)

with Tim
mattnuttall 24/Mar/91 2nd
with Alan Holden
mattnuttall 24/Aug/90 Lead
with Alan Holden
Nick Biven 11/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Brailsford
Neil R 11/Mar/90 2nd dog
with Mark
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
Hidden User 56 ??/1990 -
BigHairyIan 01/Mar/89 Lead O/S
with Mike Buckley (Little Mike)
mik1miller ??/1989 Lead O/S
with gary deane
Roget ??/1989 2nd O/S
with jim
Rich Kirby ??/1989 2nd
andy tetsill ?/Nov/88 Lead
with Joy
steve taylor ?/Oct/87 AltLd
with stumpy
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/85 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/1985 Lead
with Ian Fenton
Hidden 01/Aug/84 2nd
neilh 07/Jul/84 Lead
with simon webster
Hidden 29/Apr/84 2nd
Martin Bennett 17/Jul/83 -

My hardest lead to date, for sure!

with Ron
Rob Davies ?/Jul/82 AltLd dnf

Date? Feeble attempts at P1, not a good idea when you can't jam

with Tony Welsh
Bob 14/Feb/82 -
Mark Kemball 26/Aug/80 Lead
ColinMeech ??/1978 Lead O/S

Took me an hour to get over the first move!

Paul Clarke ??/1978 AltLd
with FMC
Mike Owen 11/Sep/77 2nd β
with Pete Craig
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 71
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 65
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set