20m.

Rockfax Description
A tricky crux pitch on which good technique and a bit of arm power are needed.
1) 15m. Scramble up past a holly tree, then continue up the wall on the left to reach a stance on a large flake.
2) 5a, 20m. Gain the corner via some tricky moves and follow it, passing right of an overlap at 15m, to a good stance.
3) 5c, 20m. Gaining the groove is problematical and usually involves one's backside being wedged, but a wide crack above relents slightly, and hopefully leads to the top. It is possible to scramble easily rightwards and down (very exposed) to the tree belay on Shadow Wall and abseil off. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Cracks And Corners To Greatness

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UserDateNotes
Luke90 14 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Currently a helpful stuck nut that you can just about reach from below the crux. First scrambly pitch has been overtaken by the tree. I curved left towards Crackstone Rib and then back right into the groove, which works well enough. Second pitch (first proper) does have some small chunks of loose rock but it's not the horror show suggested by some comments here. Just needs a thoughtful approach.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Currently a helpful stuck nut that you can just about reach from below the crux. First scrambly pitch has been overtaken by the tree. I curved left towards Crackstone Rib and then back right into the groove, which works well enough. Second pitch (first proper) does have some small chunks of loose rock but it's not the horror show suggested by some comments here. Just needs a thoughtful approach.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
James Oswald 8 Sep Lead O/S
with R Brown
with R Brown
Hidden 8 Sep 2nd O/S
Luke90 13 Aug Lead O/S Only got the move into the groove by the skin of my teeth. Hung on too long trying to figure it out and getting so pumped that I nearly dropped off the easier moves above.
with Toon
Only got the move into the groove by the skin of my teeth. Hung on too long trying to figure it out and getting so pumped that I nearly dropped off the easier moves above.
with Toon
lanky 16 Jul Lead O/S
with Del
with Del
Hidden 18 Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Apr AltLd O/S
Hubert Feret 25 Feb Lead O/S
with AnnJ
with AnnJ
Hidden 3 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 12 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Led crux pitch.
with Tom Nichols
Led crux pitch.
with Tom Nichols
Davy Gunn ??, 2018 -
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Marl 25 May, 2017 AltLd dog Managed to work out crux eventually after 1 down climb for a rest, 1 take & 2 falls. So much easier once worked out!
with Matt Abbot
Managed to work out crux eventually after 1 down climb for a rest, 1 take & 2 falls. So much easier once worked out!
with Matt Abbot
Hidden 3 May, 2017 AltLd
Billg 30 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Dai Lampard
with Dai Lampard
waynekinrade 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd
UncleMephisto 17 Aug, 2016 Lead RP Done in one pitch, which makes an incredible, long and varied pitch.
Done in one pitch, which makes an incredible, long and varied pitch.
jezb1 22 Jun, 2016 AltLd P1 & p2. P2 isn't bad a p3 is pretty good with a few techy moves.
P1 & p2. P2 isn't bad a p3 is pretty good with a few techy moves.
Hidden 1 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
UncleMephisto 25 May, 2016 AltLd dnf Took too long figuring out the burly moves up the groove, and had nothing left to give after getting through! That section is well protected. Escaped up the crack on the left as the rain started to fall. 5a middle pitch is a bit of a horror show.
Took too long figuring out the burly moves up the groove, and had nothing left to give after getting through! That section is well protected. Escaped up the crack on the left as the rain started to fall. 5a middle pitch is a bit of a horror show.
Dan Vaj 20 Mar, 2016 2nd β
with James McHaffie
with James McHaffie
chris sm 9 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
Misha 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S P2 which Nic led is quite hard for 5a and would make a better winter route! I did the crux pitch, which features only one tricky bit but it's pretty hard. Spent ages figuring out how to do it without cranking out a 6a move, then eventually spotted an undercut but it was still stiff 5c even with that. The rest is much easier. Worth a start overall.
with Nicolas
P2 which Nic led is quite hard for 5a and would make a better winter route! I did the crux pitch, which features only one tricky bit but it's pretty hard. Spent ages figuring out how to do it without cranking out a 6a move, then eventually spotted an undercut but it was still stiff 5c even with that. The rest is much easier. Worth a start overall.
with Nicolas
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
renetemple 16 Jun, 2015 2nd dog Would not liked to have led this :( cool moves on the top pitch though.
with John Orr
Would not liked to have led this :( cool moves on the top pitch though.
with John Orr
Alex Winter 14 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S An exhaustive tour of the UK's hostile vegetation. A few creaky holds in places too, and Niels was making some smells. At least the weather was nice.
with Niels
An exhaustive tour of the UK's hostile vegetation. A few creaky holds in places too, and Niels was making some smells. At least the weather was nice.
with Niels
Hidden 13 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
JulesV 8 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Lead in one pitch which made the top pitch feel fairly wild. Classic Whillans!
with SV
Lead in one pitch which made the top pitch feel fairly wild. Classic Whillans!
with SV
Ralfy 9 Apr, 2015 AltLd dog Two rests at the belay after failing (too hard to down climb) and then being told give it a decent attempt I managed to get up it. leaning on the grove made a world of difference but still bloody hard. Got really pumped first time, must remember with rests can go on.
with dai lampard
Two rests at the belay after failing (too hard to down climb) and then being told give it a decent attempt I managed to get up it. leaning on the grove made a world of difference but still bloody hard. Got really pumped first time, must remember with rests can go on.
with dai lampard
geoff b 6 Apr, 2015 2nd
MikePycroft 6 Apr, 2015 Lead rpt Lead clean, bit of a fight - biut good arm getting better
with geoff b
Lead clean, bit of a fight - biut good arm getting better
with geoff b
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Mike_Hayes 13 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 8 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Rick Kirby
with Rick Kirby
Hidden 8 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Si Witcher 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S p2 is rattly and serious (e1 5a I thought). State of the art in 1955, fm Whillans/Allen/Brown
with Alex P
p2 is rattly and serious (e1 5a I thought). State of the art in 1955, fm Whillans/Allen/Brown
with Alex P
barni 28 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Luke Brooks 28 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Led top pitch.
with barni
Led top pitch.
with barni
Pete Wimbush 14 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Chris Hindley
with Chris Hindley
Hidden 12 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
HAJ Francis 3 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead top pitch.
Lead top pitch.
wi11 3 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S P1&2
P1&2
Dan Hale 1 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S The bloody thing is falling apart. Pitch one was pretty awful (big lumps of rock almost falling off whenever I placed gear), pitch 2 a bit better but not worth it for 8m of OK climbing. Not sure why people rate this route at all, some of the worst climbing I've done in the pass.
with George Ullrich
The bloody thing is falling apart. Pitch one was pretty awful (big lumps of rock almost falling off whenever I placed gear), pitch 2 a bit better but not worth it for 8m of OK climbing. Not sure why people rate this route at all, some of the worst climbing I've done in the pass.
with George Ullrich
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Tubs 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd rpt Led the crux this time.
Led the crux this time.
Hidden 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Sardien 7 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Surprisingly good! Some really good moves, led 5a pitch, really enjoyable, few dodgy flakes
with Gwen Lancashire
Surprisingly good! Some really good moves, led 5a pitch, really enjoyable, few dodgy flakes
with Gwen Lancashire
Hidden 6 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 2 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1 and crux pitch 3. Crux pitch is awkward thrutchy climbing, full respect to Whillans! A lot of gear to be got with a normal rack of wires and cams, though few placements are above suspicion. Top crack is exciting!
Led P1 and crux pitch 3. Crux pitch is awkward thrutchy climbing, full respect to Whillans! A lot of gear to be got with a normal rack of wires and cams, though few placements are above suspicion. Top crack is exciting!
climbergg 1 Jun, 2012 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Tim M 1 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S First pitch is a bit loose.. Main pitch is great, and well protected
First pitch is a bit loose.. Main pitch is great, and well protected
JBO 1 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 Lead
Liam FLeming 12 Jul, 2011 -
with karen dalzell
with karen dalzell
kdalzell 12 Jul, 2011 2nd
Hidden 6 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
dan ely 6 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 4 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
PAJames ??, 2011 -
uphillnow ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden 3 Sep, 2010 Lead dnf
AJM 15 Aug, 2010 AltLd Led the crux - ground up, 1 fall - didn't quite hit a foothold properly whilst moving it up the right wall. Got it fine next go. Top crack was fun!
with Tubs
Led the crux - ground up, 1 fall - didn't quite hit a foothold properly whilst moving it up the right wall. Got it fine next go. Top crack was fun!
with Tubs
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd rpt
eddy-on-the-rocks 2 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Nice pitch.
with dan ely
Nice pitch.
with dan ely
dan ely 2 Jun, 2010 2nd dog hard!
with ed the shithot visiter
hard!
with ed the shithot visiter
Paul ablitt 1 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Rushy
with Rushy
feilx 23 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 23 May, 2010 Solo O/S Just first two pitches. Lots of 5a on second pitch.
Just first two pitches. Lots of 5a on second pitch.
Hidden 17 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 -
mr mills ??, 2010 -
with paul simkiss
with paul simkiss
Liam FLeming 13 Oct, 2009 2nd dog
with Dan Jackson
with Dan Jackson
gregoritos ?Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with fox
with fox
Hidden 29 May, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 25 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
dan gibson 21 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with sam read
with sam read
Matt Vigg ??, 2008 -
Marcus ??, 2008 -
pete johnson 6 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
with Rob
Hidden 10 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
rob.grafton ?Aug, 2006 Lead
with Jim
with Jim
Chubbard 11 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with C Godfrey
with C Godfrey
ritchierich ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2005 -
Hidden 12 May, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2000 2nd O/S
WB 16 Jul, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Nicola
with Nicola
Hidden ??, 1998 AltLd
Ched ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
D Tempest 15 Jul, 1994 AltLd The main pitch
with Rick
The main pitch
with Rick
AlexRenshaw 9 Jun, 1993 Lead
Hidden 31 Mar, 1993 AltLd
Andy Say 13 Jun, 1992 Lead
Dave Rumney ??, 1991 -
steveboote ??, 1991 Lead O/S
with John Ells
with John Ells
steveb2006 29 Apr, 1990 Lead Mervyn leads first pitch
with Mervyn Dudley
Mervyn leads first pitch
with Mervyn Dudley
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 Lead
with Spuz
with Spuz
mike mo ??, 1990 -
Hidden 19 Apr, 1988 2nd
Hidden ??, 1988 -
Dave Musgrove 1 May, 1987 Lead O/S
with Kim Greenald
with Kim Greenald
Neil McA 15 Jun, 1985 Lead O/S Hard!
with Roy Ruddle
Hard!
with Roy Ruddle
Rick51 10 Jun, 1984 Lead
Melok ??, 1984 -
Mark Kemball 19 Aug, 1983 2nd
with Dave Abbey
with Dave Abbey
Robmwatt ??, 1983 -
Hidden ??, 1983 -
Hidden 16 Jun, 1981 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
daviesxxx ??, 1980 Lead
with Harry, jjk
with Harry, jjk
Falko ??, 1980 Lead O/S Chris was petrified as I led the top section but I underlined the phrase 'provided that some strength has been preserved, this is not as difficult as the lower section' in the Ron James guidebook.
with Chris Plant
Chris was petrified as I led the top section but I underlined the phrase 'provided that some strength has been preserved, this is not as difficult as the lower section' in the Ron James guidebook.
with Chris Plant
Hidden 13 May, 1979 Lead
Steve Lewis 13 May, 1979 Lead O/S
with Charlie
with Charlie
Mark Kemball 19 Jul, 1978 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
with Sarah Bridge
mikej 20 Jun, 1978 2nd
with Wil Hurford
with Wil Hurford
Ian Jones ??, 1978 Lead
with Don't know
with Don't know
Mike Owen 21 May, 1977 2nd rpt
with Dave Roberts
with Dave Roberts
Mike Owen 5 Sep, 1976 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
with John Roberts
Derek Ryden ?Sep, 1976 AltLd O/S
with Tom Barbour
with Tom Barbour
granitbahn ??, 1975 AltLd
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Votes cast 31
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