Dates: 1 June to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
It has been reported that either Peregrines or Kesterels are nesting on the popular route Shadow Wall on Carreg Wastad, with eggs and one unfledged chick on the nest.
As these birds and their nests are legally protected, climbers are asked to avoid climbing the routes Shadow Wall to Trilon inclusive until the birds have fledged at the end of July.
Rockfax Description
A good eliminate on Erosion Groove offering two challenging pitches. Start as for Shadow Wall.
1) 5c, 30m. Follow Shadow Wall to a tree on the left, traverse below this and make a bold move up to the groove below the steep crack. Pull over the roof to a poor jam then, before the crack closes, swing out left to a jug and a thread. Move back up and right and climb the hollow rib to a wall then traverse left to belay.
2) 5c, 22m. Follow Erosion Groove past its crux. Arrange high runners in the groove and step back down and traverse to the compelling hand-crack. Climb this to the top. Care needed with loose rock in places. It is possible to easily descend to the tree belay on Shadow Wall and abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Good punchy eliminate on Erosion Groove Direct. Not obvious swing L on 1st pitch and good tight crack on top pitch. Pro good on both pitches. Given E2 in Pass guide but top of that grade.
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Grade: E3 5b ***
(Craig Doris)