UKC

Restricted Access

The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies from Flying Doctor The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).

60m, 3 pitches. Start as for West Wall Climb.
Pitch 1. 50ft as for WWC.
Pitch 2. 80ft Cross the slab on the left to gain a groove and climb this until it ends in a wall. Up this to join the Eliminate. Belay.
Pitch 3. 60ft Follow the ramp leading right to a small overhang. Over this (hard) to grassy finish. You can avoid the hard move by going right, then up and back left (still hard and runout).

Pre 1970 see CC Southern Limestone Guide.

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Guidebooks for Beeston Tor

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Helix

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Harston Rocks)

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