The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies from Flying Doctor / The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).
Rockfax Description
A wandering outing up the left flank of the cliff requires a bit of bushwhacking early on, although it improves with some nice climbing higher up. Start by a tree on the approach path.
1) 4a, 20m. Follow the cleaned line between vegetation to the second tree on the wall.
2) 4b, 15m. Trend right across the wall to a niche. Step right out of this, then climb the wall past a bulge to a good, sheltered stance at the break.
3) 4c, 15m. Step left and climb the awkward crack, then slabby rock leftwards to easy ground. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
NickAL | 21 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent. Very few routes in the Peak provide this sort of position/exposure at this grade,(applies especially to the middle pitch). Nick Learmont | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Excellent. Very few routes in the Peak provide this sort of position/exposure at this grade,(applies especially to the middle pitch). Nick Learmont |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)