8m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the brown flowstone stain between One Flew Out of the Cuckoo's Nest and Hanging Out with Halo Jones. The finishing hold is at the very top of the hanging groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the brown flowstone stain between One Flew Out of the Cuckoo's Nest and Hanging Out with Halo Jones. The finishing hold is at the very top of the hanging groove.

FA. Adam Perrett 24/Dec/2010

Ticklists: Tea On The Veranda, Portland.


ClimberDateStyle
ssutton 23/Apr Lead

Put a bit too much weight on the mono pocket, powerful move to finish

with Ruth
Paul Hicks 13/Apr TR rpt

Third go at this one. Plenty of encouragement & beta from the Aloft Gang. Crept up slowly. Somehow arrived at the top crux. A strong right hand required, feet up & go. I sort of got there. x

with Derek Billings
derryclimbs 13/Apr TR β

Always avoided this because of its name. But actually the reach at the top ain't too bad at all. Back to lead it soon.

Jack Turner 10/Apr Lead RP

Missed the sneaky sidepull and attempted to pull up on the mono.. lowered off and got first time after seeing it

with Lois Holman
lholman 10/Apr TR
Tim Ford 02/Apr Lead G/U
with callum ray
Trippinjester 22/Jan TR rpt

Got the bottom clean, but the top hold is just too damm far away.

David Staples 22/Jan TR rpt
FatAz 29/Dec/16 Lead dog
with Vince Ho
maxtaylor 23/Oct/16 TR RP

A game of two halves... The lead attempt was rained off so will have to leave for next time.

littleluke 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
rachelvlc 09/Oct/16 Lead
with Luke
Connorolfe 02/Oct/16 Lead RP
el_monty 21/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Edward T, Emily B
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead
Felix Ottey 29/Aug/16 TR O/S
Tru 13/Aug/16 Lead RP
ThomasB 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Ben J 23/Jul/16 Lead β

Pretty sure I did this on toprope a few years ago; can't remember though so taking the flash :)

with Gemma Steel
Chris Redding 22/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Boulders Crew, Spillers
Spillers 22/Jul/16 Lead
Steven1993 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with James, Emily Mobley, Amy Hare
SteveHowie1 04/Jun/16 Lead rpt
HannahT 04/Jun/16 TR dnf

Did it clean up to the last two moves but couldn't quite reach the move.

with Martin
Alister123 03/Jun/16 Lead RP
with Steve Howie
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead O/S
Ebebbers 17/May/16 Lead dog

Could not do final move- used sling for final move

E30Adam 14/May/16 TR dog
with Raf Gruszczynski
E30Adam 14/May/16 TR dog
with Raf Gruszczynski
E30Adam 14/May/16 TR dog
with Raf Gruszczynski
mikespooner 08/May/16 Lead O/S
RKirke 08/May/16 Lead O/S
WillAndrew 07/May/16 Lead β
with Tom N
ThomN 07/May/16 Lead G/U
bryan61 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
David Sz 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Avoided the mono, enjoyed the moves to top out!

Hidden 19/Mar/16 TR
bedmaster_3000 19/Mar/16 2nd O/S

Very tough climbing. Stupid one and a half finger mono pull-up. Very hard finish.

with Andy (Emma's Partner)
katiep 20/Oct/15 Lead β

Just about got it clean, struggled to get the left hand jug at the top

with Adal Mirza, Joe Premier
Hidden 20/Oct/15 Lead O/S
crag_whitelamb 17/Oct/15 TR
with StuartH
Hidden 17/Oct/15 TR
Jack Shewring 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Short but fun. Mono move at the start followed by hard moves at the grove at the top.

hannesD 10/Oct/15 Lead dnf

lead gave up mid bad technique, toprope gave up top due to exhaustion and powermove needed, was 30cm from top QQ

with adam
Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
rockafunked ?/Oct/15 Lead dog
HazelMacLean 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

The bottom part is where you dream of being big and the top is where you are BIG. All the stars!! Such fun moves, first the mono and sidepull and really balancing footwork while you're pulling hard then a fantastically committing finish.

with Heather Mungin
Hidden 16/Aug/15 2nd dog
BenG32 19/Jul/15 TR dog
with Nat
BenG32 19/Jul/15 TR rpt
with Nat
Paul Hicks 16/Jul/15 TR β
Ian Bell 04/Jul/15 Lead dog

1 move wonder at the top. Bottom fine and avoided the mono.

with Tania T
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
jamespilgrim 27/Jun/15 TR dog

A climb of two halves - one part technical and mono-packed, the other bold and reachy!

How easy 27/Jun/15 Lead
joshchalke 14/Jun/15 Lead dnf
with bradfry
Charlie Low 08/Jun/15 Lead RP

1st RP.

Remyveness 07/Jun/15 Lead G/U

2nd red point attempt

SteveHowie1 06/Jun/15 Lead RP
Doug.Johnson 06/Jun/15 TR O/S
James12389 05/Jun/15 Lead RP
ChristyCole 25/May/15 Lead O/S
afrosam 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Chickenking 03/May/15 Lead dog
alexspurling 19/Apr/15 Lead dog

Committing crux final moves. Save some bouldering power for it.

Nick_Merriman 16/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Taken 3 years, but I finally did it!

rachelvlc 12/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Apr/15 TR
kathrynr.bell 01/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 21/Mar/15 TR RP
Alex Bryant 20/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Whipinator 08/Mar/15 Lead O/S
bsparky 08/Mar/15 2nd
dantheoptimist 08/Mar/15 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jan/15 Lead dnf
Jack Wallace ??/2015 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead RP
drifterjoe ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
sam_craddock 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
aide454 14/Sep/14 TR
timjamesmedley ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Patu 24/Aug/14 TR β
DavidRobertson 24/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Nice fingery low section, fun mono but felt like feet were key. Solid move at the top!

netgull 24/Aug/14 TR dnf

Interesting and fingery vertical climb for the first bit. Committing move to reach for the top from a lay back on good jug. Did not get that one. Nice technical climb though.

Jlewis01 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
dereke12000 06/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Feeling weak

with Aidan
JUSTADUDE 01/Jul/14 Lead β

That mono-pocket is painful! Awesome dyno finish if you fancy it.

Richard Horn 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tobydunford 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
wave1art 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Chris Redding 07/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Slipped off first try due to excessive mud. Nailed it the second time. Hardest move is the top

with Marc Perkins
meltdown34 01/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Nice climb, struggled at start till I found another hand hold, then good going from there, could not complete the last move to the top edge, powerful with little for feet

Hidden 25/May/14 Lead dog
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Robnort 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with ellie Bromage
pc1983 04/May/14 Lead rpt

Once you have the sequence of moves this climb is fine. The first move and the last are the hardest. The last one is made easier by getting the top jugs and putting the right foot high

steve taylor 21/Apr/14 Lead
with Barry Clarke
richy85 21/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/14 TR
Trippinjester 16/Mar/14 TR dog
with J.P, Jensoir
mike.rigby 16/Mar/14 -
with Rob Edwards
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 16/Feb/14 Lead rpt
with Steph
Steph Roberts 16/Feb/14 Lead RP

Quick toprope practise then 1st red point

with Sam
Jenben 11/Jan/14 -
joshchalke 24/Nov/13 Lead dnf
with bradfry
mattc 29/Sep/13 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Aug/13 TR
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
Julesthe1st 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Guy
Maxim2023 ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Kate Tarrant
dereke12000 29/Jun/13 TR dog

Not ready yet...

with Ian
patrickc 16/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Sue
Jack93 10/Jun/13 Lead RP
Chris Redding 10/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Fell first attempt moving from the mono. Missed an undercling hold. Should have gone OS.

cpt_crunch 10/Jun/13 Lead β
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Seriously good beta from Lally.

with Matt Lally
Trippinjester 05/Jun/13 TR
rustyfishhook 05/Jun/13 Lead dnf

great pumpy ish route shame about the gash top move to lower off. Si reckons a hold is missing?

Tom Brierley Gore 27/May/13 Lead O/S

One arm lock offs anyone ? :P

Hidden 18/May/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead dnf
Robnort 06/May/13 TR dog

2nd attempt at the top got it, finger pull needs work.

with andy burns, paul clauston
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead RP
Anastasia 02/May/13 TR dnf
kingborris 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead RP
Gavdee1 06/Apr/13 Lead dog
ali macphee 06/Apr/13 Lead
Eddie Shelbourne 27/Mar/13 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/13 2nd
Nick205228 26/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Fraser hill-casey 26/Mar/13 Lead dog
Stefan_Morris 26/Mar/13 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2013 Lead O/S

Short and sweet, fairly easy for the grade!

with James "The Machine" Salisbury
Marcin78 ??/2013 Lead
with Chris
rustaldo 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S

the top needs thuggery. the first part up to the ledge is good though. monotastic!

with Aimee
akhutton88 10/Nov/12 2nd
dobby 200 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
ardzeiem 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Tim
Matt Groom 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Cheet 08/Sep/12 TR dnf

Cedric did very well leading, until the top boulder. I was scared and had to top rope. Small footholds, fun 1.5 finger pocket halfway. We can't get through the top boulder!!!

with Cedric
Twisty 08/Sep/12 -
with Greg Slee
Jobbo 19/Aug/12 Lead RP
JenDurden 19/Aug/12 TR dog
with Phil Davis
Jobbo 10/Aug/12 Lead dnf
David Staples ?/Aug/12 Lead β
spragglerocks 23/Jun/12 TR dnf

Got to the ledge. Top out was evil.

Lumbering Oaf 23/Jun/12 TR dnf

worked out the lower moves ok, but the top moves are nails!

Mr Tumness 04/Jun/12 Lead
with Rob Judd
bradfry 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Last move is the crux. Big haul but there are good holds when you get your right foot up.

philhaigh 24/May/12 Lead RP

Bit fluttery at the top!

Hidden 24/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 12/May/12 TR dog
The Ivanator 12/Apr/12 Lead

Painful move on a mono and a rubbish flowstone crimp on the lower wall and a tricky finish.

with Sean
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead dog
SamStokes 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
elCapitano 02/Apr/12 Lead
with Dave
Louise Hall 01/Apr/12 TR dog
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Stefan_Morris 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with jenny
el_monty 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/12 TR
Tony Adshead 18/Mar/12 TR O/S
with Mike Rich
thelizard 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Dorset Climbing Group
Semtex 18/Mar/12 TR RP
samparsons 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 08/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rob
robajob 08/Mar/12 Lead RP
Tom Gale 28/Jan/12 Lead rpt

The lumpy jug left above the mono broke, route still same difficulty (doesn't make the move to the good jug above any harder) Top still the crux IMO.

with Joe, Keiha
KDhruev 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Tom G
Hidden ??/2012 TR dog
Ducks Rock 24/Nov/11 -

left 2 quickies in the top if anyone finds them and feels kind enough to return them?

mlg678 08/Oct/11 Lead
pymn nice but dim ?/Oct/11 Lead

First 6b+?

AlexD 25/Sep/11 Lead dog

painful mono on bottom section, awkward to clip lower off.

with Darren
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Pete Scott 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Jimbo
GREERISH 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
gibsond 14/Aug/11 Lead dog

Got the bottom section no problem. Made numerous attempts to get the top move done till too tired to pull up!!! Next time.

Jonathan Emett 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with darryl
tscoobydoo 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Sparky!!!3 25/Jul/11 Lead β
with Kyle F
Kyle F 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Alex More 24/Jul/11 Lead
with Kyle Fayers
Hidden 19/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 17/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
trevor macalonan 26/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Craig
drewclimber 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with paul
Carnie Lisa 20/Mar/11 TR dog
with Dan Verge
Dandan82 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Ducks Rock 20/Mar/11 TR dog
with Gemma
Marti999 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Zoe
Jonathan Emett 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with mike pinney
Marti999 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Ducks Rock ??/2011 -
kateg2009 ??/2011 TR O/S

Hard move at top. Difficult for short people to clip the 2nd last bolt so I top roped.

with Chris Greer
Adam Perrett 24/Dec/10 Lead RP

FA

Hidden ??/2000 -
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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set