200m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 115m. A popular line which is not as reliant on ice as the Pelissier and is much better when fat. This is an excellent little one-day hit. Cross the bergschrund and climb the easy snow slope to a belay beneath a narrow chimney.
1) 4, 15m. Climb the chimney, which is surprisingly awkward in a couple of spots, to belay underneath where it steepens and widens into a corner.
2) 4+, 20m. The corner is excellent, with some technical moves leading to a steep pull onto snow or ice, the latter being preferable! There are a couple of well-placed pegs for protection and above the steep pull the angle kicks back so the climbing is short but sweet. Continue up and right on low-angled snow to belay on the right at the foot of another chimney. It is possible to climb slabbier mixed ground on the left instead of pitches 2 and 3. The climbing is of a similar difficulty if you choose this option, but the route described here is higher quality.
3) 4, 30m. Follow the chimney to a belay on a small snow slope.
4) 5, 30m. The angle eases but the climbing remains technical for the first half and then steepens just before the belay, which is below a steep chimney with a flake-crack on the right.
5) 5+, 20m. The chimney is tricky but brief. Follow easier ground above to a belay.
Most parties abseil off from here but it is possible to continue up low-angled snow and mixed ground to the summit of the Lachenal. © Rockfax

Philippe Batoux, Cedric Cruaud & Benoit Robert 08/Nov/1998

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 08/Apr Lead O/S
Butel 04/Apr 2nd

First mixed route in Alps. Pretty thin which made it considerably harder.

with Bad Manners
Hidden 17/Mar AltLd
SeánM 02/Feb AltLd O/S
murray ?/Oct/16 AltLd dnf
with Will
James W 08/Apr/16 2nd
with Mark Thomas
Hidden 22/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 07/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
with josh
Hidden 07/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
stanleynkk 29/Feb/16 AltLd
Richard Kendrick 29/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
machars 06/Feb/16 Lead

In pretty dry condition but might be the norm?

with Flynn
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 30/Oct/15 AltLd
alexm198 30/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Très bon. In 3 pitches, bottom is very dry! Led P2.

Hidden 26/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Dec/14 AltLd dnf
machars 22/Dec/14 AltLd dnf

Bailed due to river of spindrift, lack of time and rescue of fallen climber on star academixte. One to come back for.

jimmatthews 05/Mar/14 AltLd dnf

Very thin

with Richard Andrews, Chris Andrews
Hidden 05/Mar/14 -
Hidden 05/Mar/14 AltLd dnf
frost 21/Mar/13 AltLd

VI 6

with M Thomas, D Almond
Hidden 22/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
James Thacker ??/2013 -
stevepotter ?/Feb/11 -
with Matt
thebigeasy ??/2010 -
GaryK ?/Jan/07 AltLd O/S

A great route, not very long. Very little fixed gear on the route, the odd peg, and very few fixed belays when we did it, it may be different now.

with Genki Narumi
Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead
David Horwood 08/Apr/04 -
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