200m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 115m. A popular line which is not as reliant on ice as the Pelissier and is much better when fat. This is an excellent little one-day hit. Cross the bergschrund and climb the easy snow slope to a belay beneath a narrow chimney.
1) 4, 15m. Climb the chimney, which is surprisingly awkward in a couple of spots, to belay underneath where it steepens and widens into a corner.
2) 4+, 20m. The corner is excellent, with some technical moves leading to a steep pull onto snow or ice, the latter being preferable! There are a couple of well-placed pegs for protection and above the steep pull the angle kicks back so the climbing is short but sweet. Continue up and right on low-angled snow to belay on the right at the foot of another chimney. It is possible to climb slabbier mixed ground on the left instead of pitches 2 and 3. The climbing is of a similar difficulty if you choose this option, but the route described here is higher quality.
3) 4, 30m. Follow the chimney to a belay on a small snow slope.
4) 5, 30m. The angle eases but the climbing remains technical for the first half and then steepens just before the belay, which is below a steep chimney with a flake-crack on the right.
5) 5+, 20m. The chimney is tricky but brief. Follow easier ground above to a belay.
Most parties abseil off from here but it is possible to continue up low-angled snow and mixed ground to the summit of the Lachenal. © Rockfax

Philippe Batoux, Cedric Cruaud & Benoit Robert 08/Nov/1998

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Dougie 14 Jan 2nd O/S 1st lift, skied to the base of the climb. Amazing route, great mixed condition, worth a few pitons on the rack. Skied Vallee Blanche to catch the last train from Montenvers
with Andy L
1st lift, skied to the base of the climb. Amazing route, great mixed condition, worth a few pitons on the rack. Skied Vallee Blanche to catch the last train from Montenvers
with Andy L
Tom Fullen 11 Jan AltLd O/S In good nick. Skied down the Blanche and James Bond track
with Birdie
In good nick. Skied down the Blanche and James Bond track
with Birdie
mrbird 11 Jan AltLd O/S
Matthew Glenn 6 Jan -
Misha 6 Jan AltLd O/S Good route in decent condition - some sugary snow but generally decent neve and a bit of ice, not fat but enough there to be pleasant. First route of the trip. We did it to the top in 4P. Matthew led P1 60m to a self made belay (can do a shorter pitch to belay on a spike then another to an in situ belay about 10m up my pitch). The section past the peg was Scottish tech 6. I led P2 60m to an in situ belay (reinforced with a cam). Some tech 6. Matthew led P3 30m to a self made belay at the top of the difficulties. Meant to be the crux but I thought tech 5 on good hooks. I did snow plod to the top (waist belay in a hollow, good to put it into practice!). Scottish VI 6 overall. First bin up, ski down, started 9.20am, topped out 1.10pm, walked back down (good snow so only took 10-15 mins), skied out to Montenvers which took just over an hour (crap snow, starting to feel the altitude and legs were killing me - not (ski) fit!), bonus 5 min trudge to get to the ladders as it enough snow to ski direct (didn’t fancy the JB Track either as needs more snow), bloody ladders seemed to take forever, cable car 3.45pm. Climbed in ski boots.
Good route in decent condition - some sugary snow but generally decent neve and a bit of ice, not fat but enough there to be pleasant. First route of the trip. We did it to the top in 4P. Matthew led P1 60m to a self made belay (can do a shorter pitch to belay on a spike then another to an in situ belay about 10m up my pitch). The section past the peg was Scottish tech 6. I led P2 60m to an in situ belay (reinforced with a cam). Some tech 6. Matthew led P3 30m to a self made belay at the top of the difficulties. Meant to be the crux but I thought tech 5 on good hooks. I did snow plod to the top (waist belay in a hollow, good to put it into practice!). Scottish VI 6 overall. First bin up, ski down, started 9.20am, topped out 1.10pm, walked back down (good snow so only took 10-15 mins), skied out to Montenvers which took just over an hour (crap snow, starting to feel the altitude and legs were killing me - not (ski) fit!), bonus 5 min trudge to get to the ladders as it enough snow to ski direct (didn’t fancy the JB Track either as needs more snow), bloody ladders seemed to take forever, cable car 3.45pm. Climbed in ski boots.
Tom Seccombe 3 Oct, 2019 AltLd O/S Mostly wet thawed snow ice at the start we chopped it out (sorry). The snow started to freeze up as it came into the shade and became occasionally useful, but mostly snow clearing and dry tooling.
with Hanna Shmid
Mostly wet thawed snow ice at the start we chopped it out (sorry). The snow started to freeze up as it came into the shade and became occasionally useful, but mostly snow clearing and dry tooling.
with Hanna Shmid
R0BJ0N 15 Apr, 2018 AltLd rpt
with Line Van der Berg
with Line Van der Berg
Hidden ?Feb, 2018 -
Hidden 8 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Butel 4 Apr, 2017 2nd First mixed route in Alps. Pretty thin which made it considerably harder.
with Bad Manners
First mixed route in Alps. Pretty thin which made it considerably harder.
with Bad Manners
Hidden 17 Mar, 2017 AltLd
SeánM 2 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S
Just Will ?Oct, 2016 AltLd
with murray
with murray
murray ?Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
James W 8 Apr, 2016 2nd
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
Hidden 22 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 7 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
stanleynkk 29 Feb, 2016 AltLd
Richard Kendrick 29 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
Graeme Barr 6 Feb, 2016 Lead In pretty dry condition but might be the norm?
with Flynn
In pretty dry condition but might be the norm?
with Flynn
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden 30 Oct, 2015 AltLd
alexm198 30 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Très bon. In 3 pitches, bottom is very dry! Led P2.
Très bon. In 3 pitches, bottom is very dry! Led P2.
Hidden 26 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Dec, 2014 AltLd dnf
Graeme Barr 22 Dec, 2014 AltLd dnf Bailed due to river of spindrift, lack of time and rescue of fallen climber on star academixte. One to come back for.
Bailed due to river of spindrift, lack of time and rescue of fallen climber on star academixte. One to come back for.
jimmatthews 5 Mar, 2014 AltLd dnf Very thin
with Richard Andrews, chris687
Very thin
with Richard Andrews, chris687
Hidden 5 Mar, 2014 -
Hidden 5 Mar, 2014 AltLd dnf
frost 21 Mar, 2013 AltLd VI 6
with M Thomas, D Almond
VI 6
with M Thomas, D Almond
Hidden 22 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
James Thacker ??, 2013 -
stevepotter ?Feb, 2011 -
with Matt
with Matt
thebigeasy ??, 2010 -
GaryK ?Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S A great route, not very long. Very little fixed gear on the route, the odd peg, and very few fixed belays when we did it, it may be different now.
with Genki Narumi
A great route, not very long. Very little fixed gear on the route, the odd peg, and very few fixed belays when we did it, it may be different now.
with Genki Narumi
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Apr, 2006 Lead
with David Horwood
with David Horwood
David Horwood 8 Apr, 2004 -
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