14m. Feedback
Rockfax Description
Bizarre and excellent. From Dead Dog Crack traverse to the spanner (its base is a bit thin, but threading it is better than nothing) then balance up the precarious shallow groove above and right. You need to avoid using the spanner as a hold to claim the full grade! Originally the route stared from Lolita - this is harder and more serious. . © Rockfax
FA. Dougie Hall 1978
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dan-gerMouse | 1 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: What a route, quirky and fun. Very high in the grade I'd give it 5c british tech. The spanner has enough wabble to make you seriously consider yourself as mad when you're flailing around trying to tie it off. Fantastic! | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: What a route, quirky and fun. Very high in the grade I'd give it 5c british tech. The spanner has enough wabble to make you seriously consider yourself as mad when you're flailing around trying to tie it off. Fantastic! |
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| craig h | 5 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Doing it from the right makes the route safer for the leader and the seconder (well to reach the spanner anyway). The move to the spanner this way is a fair reach and may stop those with a short span. Spanner's only lost 50% of its original thickness and can be hidden nicely with a sling, very off balance before the final toothy blocks are reached for a fun finish. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Doing it from the right makes the route safer for the leader and the seconder (well to reach the spanner anyway). The move to the spanner this way is a fair reach and may stop those with a short span. Spanner's only lost 50% of its original thickness and can be hidden nicely with a sling, very off balance before the final toothy blocks are reached for a fun finish. |
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| Duncan I | 5 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: It is possible to place a high runner in Dead Dog Crack and make a few moves across the traverse to the spanner then exit direct. Still E2, and you'll still hit the floor if you fluff the top move. The spanner is not a particularly confidence-inspiring piece of protection and you don't see how bad it is until you've done the traverse. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: It is possible to place a high runner in Dead Dog Crack and make a few moves across the traverse to the spanner then exit direct. Still E2, and you'll still hit the floor if you fluff the top move. The spanner is not a particularly confidence-inspiring piece of protection and you don't see how bad it is until you've done the traverse. |
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| craig h | 8 Jan, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The route in the 1988 Moorland Gritstone Guide starts up Lolita on the left side of the wall and traverse rightwards to the spanner. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: The route in the 1988 Moorland Gritstone Guide starts up Lolita on the left side of the wall and traverse rightwards to the spanner. |
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Logged Ascents
| User | Date | Style | Notes & Partners
|
|---|---|---|---|
| g1m147 | 26 Aug | TR | |
| sambamlam | 18 Aug | TR O/S | |
| david morse | 18 Aug | 2nd rpt |
with stevebarratt |
with stevebarratt |
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| Olly Russell | 21 Jun | Lead |
with Tom Wallwin |
with Tom Wallwin |
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| kempy7 | 21 Jun | TR rpt | |
| Tom Wallwin | 21 Jun | Lead RP |
Came off it before the spanner, top roped it a few times then tried again after it had cooled down and went nicely with olly russell |
| Came off it before the spanner, top roped it a few times then tried again after it had cooled down and went nicely with olly russell |
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| AlexDitaliaRiley | 22 May | TR O/S | |
| Dan Wright | 4 May | Lead O/S |
really fun, pleased to have got the tick. it's been on my list for a while! with Lewis Prest |
| really fun, pleased to have got the tick. it's been on my list for a while! with Lewis Prest |
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| Olly Russell | 26 Mar | 2nd dog |
Really good bit of climbing by Chris with kempy7 |
| Really good bit of climbing by Chris with kempy7 |
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| kempy7 | 26 Mar | Lead O/S |
with Olly Russell |
with Olly Russell |
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| Hidden | 10 Sep, 2018 | 2nd β | |
| Jmpollard | 10 Sep, 2018 | Lead O/S |
Fun and novel! with Furry Goose |
| Fun and novel! with Furry Goose |
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| George Frisby | 12 Jul, 2018 | TR dog |
Much more pumpy than it looks from the ground. with r0x0r.wolfo |
| Much more pumpy than it looks from the ground. with r0x0r.wolfo |
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| Hidden | ?Jul, 2018 | Lead RP | |
| mattnuttall | 8 Jun, 2018 | 2nd rpt |
Repair job on the spanner is good. Well done fettling team. with Andrew Wilson |
| Repair job on the spanner is good. Well done fettling team. with Andrew Wilson |
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| deacondeacon | 8 Oct, 2017 | Lead O/S | |
| ashtond6 | 8 Oct, 2017 | 2nd | |
| Joshua Robertson | 25 May, 2017 | Lead β |
with ollyisaclimber, rikbattye |
with ollyisaclimber, rikbattye |
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| WilliamRupp | 14 May, 2017 | 2nd |
with markvaughan |
with markvaughan |
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| markvaughan | 14 May, 2017 | Lead O/S |
with WilliamRupp |
with WilliamRupp |
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| Dan Wright | 16 Sep, 2016 | 2nd dnf |
Going to have this one, next time..! Sweet climb. with Mark |
| Going to have this one, next time..! Sweet climb. with Mark |
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| Hidden | 17 Aug, 2016 | 2nd O/S | |
| Hidden | 7 Aug, 2016 | Lead O/S | |
| Hidden | 22 Jun, 2016 | TR rpt | |
| Hidden | 3 Jun, 2016 | TR | |
| Droyd | 14 Oct, 2015 | Lead dnf |
Backed off halfway up the scoop and squirmed over to Dead Dog Crack. Scary for E2. with Andy |
| Backed off halfway up the scoop and squirmed over to Dead Dog Crack. Scary for E2. with Andy |
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| Neal Jobling | 27 Jun, 2015 | Lead RP |
with jonhowson |
with jonhowson |
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| Graeme Hammond | 27 Jun, 2015 | Lead O/S |
Amazing!!!!! worth the wait (wet on previous visits) with rich_hw |
| Amazing!!!!! worth the wait (wet on previous visits) with rich_hw |
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| al123 | ?May, 2015 | Lead |
with Henry |
with Henry |
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| BenedictIEP | 11 Sep, 2014 | Lead dnf |
Fell off pumped. Good air. with Leleanor93, Jam_sandwich |
| Fell off pumped. Good air. with Leleanor93, Jam_sandwich |
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| BenedictIEP | 3 Sep, 2014 | TR RP | |
| Hidden | 3 Sep, 2014 | TR β | |
| Hidden | 3 Aug, 2014 | Lead O/S | |
| adi bryant | 29 Jul, 2014 | Lead dnf |
Well the spanner has held a 15-20ft fall. . with ian Wignall, Jimmy |
| Well the spanner has held a 15-20ft fall. . with ian Wignall, Jimmy |
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| WillCass | 6 Jul, 2014 | Lead |
with Monika |
with Monika |
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| Hidden | 19 Jun, 2014 | Lead | |
| phil64 | 16 May, 2014 | Lead |
great with matt dean |
| great with matt dean |
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| Hidden | 2 May, 2014 | Lead O/S | |
| ollyisaclimber | 2 May, 2014 | Lead β | |
| Bloke on a Rope | 24 Mar, 2014 | Lead O/S |
What a top route! Technical runout crux sequence with a massive spanner randomly thrown in for good measure! It actually seems quite solid now its been re-attached. with Climbster |
| What a top route! Technical runout crux sequence with a massive spanner randomly thrown in for good measure! It actually seems quite solid now its been re-attached. with Climbster |
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| Climbster | 24 Mar, 2014 | 2nd β |
with Bloke on a Rope |
with Bloke on a Rope |
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| Hidden | ??, 2014 | Lead β | |
| Matt Cooke | 22 Sep, 2013 | Lead O/S |
with Andrew Cooke |
with Andrew Cooke |
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| Marti999 | 30 Aug, 2013 | Lead O/S |
with debbie roberts |
with debbie roberts |
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| WillCass | 10 Jul, 2013 | Lead dnf |
with Monika |
with Monika |
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| g1m147 | 7 Apr, 2013 | TR |
with Mick. |
with Mick. |
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| Frank the Husky | ??, 2013 | - | |
| Adam Coles | 1 Sep, 2012 | Lead |
with ben1987 |
with ben1987 |
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| ben1987 | 1 Sep, 2012 | 2nd O/S |
stepped left too late. with Adam Coles |
| stepped left too late. with Adam Coles |
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| akhughes | 22 Aug, 2012 | Lead O/S |
with Pete Harris |
with Pete Harris |
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| harold walmsley | 14 Aug, 2012 | 2nd O/S |
Spanner now reinstated. 2ndeed after failing to lead it. Found the traverse to and the move up from the spanner very hard with Mark Hounslea, Colin Struthers |
| Spanner now reinstated. 2ndeed after failing to lead it. Found the traverse to and the move up from the spanner very hard with Mark Hounslea, Colin Struthers |
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| Hidden | 14 Jul, 2012 | Lead O/S | |
| RM199 | 26 May, 2012 | 2nd dog | |
| Jonathan Hall | 26 May, 2012 | Lead dnf |
with RM199 |
with RM199 |
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| Jonathan Hall | 26 May, 2012 | TR |
with RM199 |
with RM199 |
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| david morse | 23 May, 2012 | Lead O/S |
Sweaty! with parker, lole, nathan lawrence |
| Sweaty! with parker, lole, nathan lawrence |
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| Hidden | 23 May, 2012 | 2nd | |
| Hidden | 31 Mar, 2012 | Lead O/S | |
| alias dave | 31 Mar, 2012 | 2nd |
with Sam Simpson |
with Sam Simpson |
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| Hidden | 28 Mar, 2012 | 2nd O/S | |
| efrance24234 | 28 Mar, 2012 | Lead O/S | |
| Hidden | 1 Feb, 2012 | Lead | |
| Hidden | 17 Aug, 2011 | Lead O/S | |
| Matthew reid | 15 Aug, 2011 | Solo O/S | |
| Chi Cheng | 24 Jun, 2011 | Lead O/S |
So scary now that the spanner is a 5cm cone that larks footed slings look like they will fall off. what i really needed was gum or tape to keep the sling on. instead weighted in down and on with a no.4 Camelot. with Mike Borg-Costanzi, Liam Brown |
| So scary now that the spanner is a 5cm cone that larks footed slings look like they will fall off. what i really needed was gum or tape to keep the sling on. instead weighted in down and on with a no.4 Camelot. with Mike Borg-Costanzi, Liam Brown |
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| Steeve | 23 Jun, 2011 | Lead O/S | pulled the spanner off whilst abbing for gear. a sad day. |
| pulled the spanner off whilst abbing for gear. a sad day. | |||
| gw3285 | 6 May, 2011 | Lead | |
| rob.s22 | ?May, 2011 | Lead O/S |
with S.B |
with S.B |
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| jamesgodwin64 | 29 Apr, 2011 | Lead O/S |
with philip1984 |
with philip1984 |
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| Viki | 29 Apr, 2011 | TR dog |
with jamesgodwin64 |
with jamesgodwin64 |
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| stevebarratt | 28 Apr, 2011 | Lead |
with Rob Sandercock |
with Rob Sandercock |
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| gw3285 | 20 Apr, 2011 | TR | |
| Hidden | 10 Apr, 2011 | Lead | |
| ojp | 9 Jul, 2010 | 2nd |
nice crux. with Dave Foster, Andy |
| nice crux. with Dave Foster, Andy |
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| Dave Foster | 9 Jul, 2010 | Lead rpt |
Shouldn't have fallen off, still not sure what happened. Spanner's been tested from crux by fourteen stone, it wobbles but it's good. Pulled ropes and got it second go. Disappointing but great route. Probably not quite 5c (for the tall anyway), but all of E2. with Andy and Si |
| Shouldn't have fallen off, still not sure what happened. Spanner's been tested from crux by fourteen stone, it wobbles but it's good. Pulled ropes and got it second go. Disappointing but great route. Probably not quite 5c (for the tall anyway), but all of E2. with Andy and Si |
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| Hidden | 22 May, 2010 | Lead O/S | |
| Hidden | 4 May, 2010 | Lead dnf | |
| JoEglington | ?May, 2010 | 2nd | |
| Hidden | 24 Apr, 2010 | Lead β | |
| dave mann | ??, 2010 | Lead O/S | |
| pie_eater_pete | ??, 2010 | - | |
| ste_d | 24 Sep, 2009 | TR rpt |
with shunt |
with shunt |
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| HansUDes | 5 Aug, 2009 | 2nd RP |
E2 5c, after Andi Stewart, Rucksack Meet with Andi Stewart |
| E2 5c, after Andi Stewart, Rucksack Meet with Andi Stewart |
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| craig h | 26 Jun, 2009 | TR rpt |
with Shunted |
with Shunted |
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| Stig | 9 May, 2009 | 2nd O/S |
Hard and scary. Not helped by freezing fingers. with Greg |
| Hard and scary. Not helped by freezing fingers. with Greg |
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| mattnuttall | 5 Jun, 2008 | Lead O/S |
with Alan Holden |
with Alan Holden |
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| jonnyboy | 18 May, 2008 | Lead O/S |
with ikl minx |
with ikl minx |
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| Ben1983 | 17 Apr, 2007 | Lead dog | |
| Hidden | 1 Apr, 2007 | TR O/S | |
| nige | 28 Jun, 2005 | Lead |
with adam ellwood |
with adam ellwood |
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| shoulders | 1 May, 2004 | Lead |
with mikeshewring |
with mikeshewring |
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| JerryD | ??, 1999 | - | |
| Hidden | ??, 1998 | Lead | |
| Craig Barton | ??, 1997 | Lead RP | |
| ste_d | 4 May, 1994 | Solo |
with Mike_d78 |
with Mike_d78 |
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| Hidden | 30 Aug, 1993 | TR | |
| Roget | 18 Jul, 1993 | Lead O/S |
with colin, baccy |
with colin, baccy |
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| Stoney Boy | 27 Feb, 1993 | Lead O/S |
with Bob Marks |
with Bob Marks |
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| Hidden | 7 Sep, 1991 | 2nd | |
| Hidden | ?Jul, 1991 | Lead O/S | |
| craig h | ?Jul, 1991 | 2nd |
with Dnmn |
with Dnmn |
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| craig h | 28 Sep, 1990 | 2nd O/S |
with Dnmn |
with Dnmn |
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| onefootholdinthegrave | ?Aug, 1990 | 2nd |
with Rich Kirby |
with Rich Kirby |
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| Rich Kirby | ?Aug, 1990 | Lead | |