Rockfax Description
14m. From Dead Dog Crack traverse to the spanner (its base is a bit thin, but threading it is better than nothing) then balance up the precarious shallow groove above and right. © Rockfax

FA. Dougie Hall 1978

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Joshua Robertson 25/May Lead β
WilliamRupp 14/May 2nd
with mark
markvaughan 14/May Lead O/S
Dan Wright 16/Sep/16 2nd dnf

Going to have this one, next time..! Sweet climb.

with Mark
Hidden 17/Aug/16 2nd O/S
MTL 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Bit bold! Had a minor panic when I couldnt get my foot as high as I wanted mid-crux.

Hidden 22/Jun/16 TR rpt
Hidden 03/Jun/16 TR
Droyd 14/Oct/15 Lead dnf

Backed off halfway up the scoop and squirmed over to Dead Dog Crack. Scary for E2.

with Andy
Neal Jobling 27/Jun/15 Lead RP
Graeme Hammond 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Amazing!!!!! worth the wait (wet on previous visits)

al123 ?/May/15 Lead
with Henry
BenedictIEP 11/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Fell off pumped. Good air.

BenedictIEP 03/Sep/14 TR RP
with Ian Carr, Sam Carey, Alex Thompson
Hidden 03/Sep/14 TR β
PaulTanton 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

An excellent route but tough for the grade. Getting to the spanner is a tricky sequence and falling off the the top section wouldn't be much fun. But I guess it all depends on how far up the crack you place gear.

with Dennis Gleeson
adi bryant 29/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Well the spanner has held a 15-20ft fall. .

with ian Wignall, Jimmy
WillCass 06/Jul/14 Lead
with Monika
Hidden 19/Jun/14 Lead
phil64 16/May/14 Lead


with matt dean
rikbattye 02/May/14 Lead O/S
ollyisaclimber 02/May/14 Lead β
Bloke on a Rope 24/Mar/14 Lead O/S

What a top route! Technical runout crux sequence with a massive spanner randomly thrown in for good measure! It actually seems quite solid now its been re-attached.

with Matt
Climbster 24/Mar/14 2nd β
with Ian
Hidden ??/2014 Lead β
Matt Cooke 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Andrew Cooke
Marti999 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
WillCass 10/Jul/13 Lead dnf
with Monika
g1m147 07/Apr/13 TR
with Mick.
Frank the Husky ??/2013 -
Adam Coles 01/Sep/12 Lead
with ben1987
ben1987 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S

stepped left too late.

akhughes 22/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Harris
harold walmsley 14/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Spanner now reinstated. 2ndeed after failing to lead it. Found the traverse to and the move up from the spanner very hard

with Mark Hounslea, Colin Struthers
Hidden 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S
RM199 26/May/12 2nd dog
Jonathan Hall 26/May/12 Lead dnf
Jonathan Hall 26/May/12 TR
david morse 23/May/12 Lead O/S


with parker, lole, nathan lawrence
Hidden 23/May/12 2nd
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
alias dave 31/Mar/12 2nd
with Sam.EB
Hidden 28/Mar/12 2nd O/S
efrance24234 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Feb/12 Lead
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Matthew reid 15/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Chi Cheng 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S

So scary now that the spanner is a 5cm cone that larks footed slings look like they will fall off. what i really needed was gum or tape to keep the sling on. instead weighted in down and on with a no.4 Camelot.

with Mike Borg-Costanzi, Liam Brown
Steeve 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S

pulled the spanner off whilst abbing for gear. a sad day.

gw3285 06/May/11 Lead
rob.s22 ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with S.B
jamesgodwin64 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Viki 29/Apr/11 TR dog
stevebarratt 28/Apr/11 Lead
with Rob Sandercock
gw3285 20/Apr/11 TR
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead
ojp 09/Jul/10 2nd

nice crux.

with Dave, Andy
Dave Foster 09/Jul/10 Lead rpt

Shouldn't have fallen off, still not sure what happened. Spanner's been tested from crux by fourteen stone, it wobbles but it's good. Pulled ropes and got it second go. Disappointing but great route. Probably not quite 5c (for the tall anyway), but all of E2.

with Andy and Si
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead dnf
JoEglington ?/May/10 2nd
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead β
dave mann ??/2010 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete ??/2010 -
ste_d 24/Sep/09 TR rpt
with shunt
HansUDes 05/Aug/09 2nd RP

E2 5c, after Andi Stewart, Rucksack Meet

with Andi Stewart
craig h 26/Jun/09 TR rpt
with Shunted
Stig 09/May/09 2nd O/S

Hard and scary. Not helped by freezing fingers.

with Greg
mattnuttall 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
jonnyboy 18/May/08 Lead O/S
Ben1983 17/Apr/07 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Apr/07 TR O/S
nige 28/Jun/05 Lead
with adam ellwood
shoulders 01/May/04 Lead
JerryD ??/1999 -
Paul Clarke ??/1998 Lead
with Barry Hobbs, John Hollingworth
Craig Barton ??/1997 Lead RP
ste_d 04/May/94 Solo
with mik
Hidden 30/Aug/93 TR
Roget 18/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with colin, baccy
Stoney Boy 27/Feb/93 Lead O/S
with Bob Marks
Chris Ellis 07/Sep/91 2nd

Dan led

with Mike Wardle, Dan Morgan
Hidden ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
craig h ?/Jul/91 2nd
craig h 28/Sep/90 2nd O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/90 Lead
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High E3
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High E2
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High E1
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Votes cast 35
High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 36
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set