14m.

Rockfax Description
Bizarre and excellent. From Dead Dog Crack traverse to the spanner (its base is a bit thin, but threading it is better than nothing) then balance up the precarious shallow groove above and right. You need to avoid using the spanner as a hold to claim the full grade! Originally the route stared from Lolita - this is harder and more serious. . © Rockfax

FA. Dougie Hall 1978

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit

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UserDateNotes
Dan-gerMouse 1 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: What a route, quirky and fun. Very high in the grade I'd give it 5c british tech. The spanner has enough wabble to make you seriously consider yourself as mad when you're flailing around trying to tie it off. Fantastic!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a route, quirky and fun. Very high in the grade I'd give it 5c british tech. The spanner has enough wabble to make you seriously consider yourself as mad when you're flailing around trying to tie it off. Fantastic!
craig h 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Doing it from the right makes the route safer for the leader and the seconder (well to reach the spanner anyway). The move to the spanner this way is a fair reach and may stop those with a short span. Spanner's only lost 50% of its original thickness and can be hidden nicely with a sling, very off balance before the final toothy blocks are reached for a fun finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Doing it from the right makes the route safer for the leader and the seconder (well to reach the spanner anyway). The move to the spanner this way is a fair reach and may stop those with a short span. Spanner's only lost 50% of its original thickness and can be hidden nicely with a sling, very off balance before the final toothy blocks are reached for a fun finish.
Duncan I 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It is possible to place a high runner in Dead Dog Crack and make a few moves across the traverse to the spanner then exit direct. Still E2, and you'll still hit the floor if you fluff the top move. The spanner is not a particularly confidence-inspiring piece of protection and you don't see how bad it is until you've done the traverse.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It is possible to place a high runner in Dead Dog Crack and make a few moves across the traverse to the spanner then exit direct. Still E2, and you'll still hit the floor if you fluff the top move. The spanner is not a particularly confidence-inspiring piece of protection and you don't see how bad it is until you've done the traverse.
craig h 8 Jan, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The route in the 1988 Moorland Gritstone Guide starts up Lolita on the left side of the wall and traverse rightwards to the spanner.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The route in the 1988 Moorland Gritstone Guide starts up Lolita on the left side of the wall and traverse rightwards to the spanner.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
g1m147 26 Aug TR
sambamlam 18 Aug TR O/S
david morse 18 Aug 2nd rpt
Olly Russell 21 Jun Lead
with Tom Wallwin
with Tom Wallwin
kempy7 21 Jun TR rpt
Tom Wallwin 21 Jun Lead RP Came off it before the spanner, top roped it a few times then tried again after it had cooled down and went nicely
with olly russell
Came off it before the spanner, top roped it a few times then tried again after it had cooled down and went nicely
with olly russell
AlexDitaliaRiley 22 May TR O/S
Dan Wright 4 May Lead O/S really fun, pleased to have got the tick. it's been on my list for a while!
with Lewis Prest
really fun, pleased to have got the tick. it's been on my list for a while!
with Lewis Prest
Olly Russell 26 Mar 2nd dog Really good bit of climbing by Chris
with kempy7
Really good bit of climbing by Chris
with kempy7
kempy7 26 Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Sep, 2018 2nd β
Jmpollard 10 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Fun and novel!
Fun and novel!
George Frisby 12 Jul, 2018 TR dog Much more pumpy than it looks from the ground.
Much more pumpy than it looks from the ground.
Hidden ?Jul, 2018 Lead RP
mattnuttall 8 Jun, 2018 2nd rpt Repair job on the spanner is good. Well done fettling team.
Repair job on the spanner is good. Well done fettling team.
deacondeacon 8 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
ashtond6 8 Oct, 2017 2nd
Joshua Robertson 25 May, 2017 Lead β
WilliamRupp 14 May, 2017 2nd
markvaughan 14 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Dan Wright 16 Sep, 2016 2nd dnf Going to have this one, next time..! Sweet climb.
with Mark
Going to have this one, next time..! Sweet climb.
with Mark
Hidden 17 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Jun, 2016 TR rpt
Hidden 3 Jun, 2016 TR
Droyd 14 Oct, 2015 Lead dnf Backed off halfway up the scoop and squirmed over to Dead Dog Crack. Scary for E2.
with Andy
Backed off halfway up the scoop and squirmed over to Dead Dog Crack. Scary for E2.
with Andy
Neal Jobling 27 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
Graeme Hammond 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Amazing!!!!! worth the wait (wet on previous visits)
with rich_hw
Amazing!!!!! worth the wait (wet on previous visits)
with rich_hw
al123 ?May, 2015 Lead
with Henry
with Henry
BenedictIEP 11 Sep, 2014 Lead dnf Fell off pumped. Good air.
Fell off pumped. Good air.
BenedictIEP 3 Sep, 2014 TR RP
with Ian Carr, UseYourFeet, Alex Thompson
with Ian Carr, UseYourFeet, Alex Thompson
Hidden 3 Sep, 2014 TR β
Hidden 3 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
adi bryant 29 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf Well the spanner has held a 15-20ft fall. .
with ian Wignall, Jimmy
Well the spanner has held a 15-20ft fall. .
with ian Wignall, Jimmy
WillCass 6 Jul, 2014 Lead
with Monika
with Monika
Hidden 19 Jun, 2014 Lead
phil64 16 May, 2014 Lead great
with matt dean
great
with matt dean
Hidden 2 May, 2014 Lead O/S
ollyisaclimber 2 May, 2014 Lead β
Bloke on a Rope 24 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S What a top route! Technical runout crux sequence with a massive spanner randomly thrown in for good measure! It actually seems quite solid now its been re-attached.
What a top route! Technical runout crux sequence with a massive spanner randomly thrown in for good measure! It actually seems quite solid now its been re-attached.
Climbster 24 Mar, 2014 2nd β
Hidden ??, 2014 Lead β
Matt Cooke 22 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
with Andrew Cooke
with Andrew Cooke
Marti999 30 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
WillCass 10 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf
with Monika
with Monika
g1m147 7 Apr, 2013 TR
with Mick.
with Mick.
Frank the Husky ??, 2013 -
Adam Coles 1 Sep, 2012 Lead
with ben1987
with ben1987
ben1987 1 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S stepped left too late.
stepped left too late.
akhughes 22 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Pete Harris
with Pete Harris
harold walmsley 14 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S Spanner now reinstated. 2ndeed after failing to lead it. Found the traverse to and the move up from the spanner very hard
with Mark Hounslea, Colin Struthers
Spanner now reinstated. 2ndeed after failing to lead it. Found the traverse to and the move up from the spanner very hard
with Mark Hounslea, Colin Struthers
Hidden 14 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
RM199 26 May, 2012 2nd dog
Jonathan Hall 26 May, 2012 Lead dnf
with RM199
with RM199
Jonathan Hall 26 May, 2012 TR
with RM199
with RM199
david morse 23 May, 2012 Lead O/S Sweaty!
with parker, lole, nathan lawrence
Sweaty!
with parker, lole, nathan lawrence
Hidden 23 May, 2012 2nd
Hidden 31 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
alias dave 31 Mar, 2012 2nd
Hidden 28 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S
efrance24234 28 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Feb, 2012 Lead
Hidden 17 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Matthew reid 15 Aug, 2011 Solo O/S
Chi Cheng 24 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S So scary now that the spanner is a 5cm cone that larks footed slings look like they will fall off. what i really needed was gum or tape to keep the sling on. instead weighted in down and on with a no.4 Camelot.
with Mike Borg-Costanzi, Liam Brown
So scary now that the spanner is a 5cm cone that larks footed slings look like they will fall off. what i really needed was gum or tape to keep the sling on. instead weighted in down and on with a no.4 Camelot.
with Mike Borg-Costanzi, Liam Brown
Steeve 23 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S pulled the spanner off whilst abbing for gear. a sad day.
pulled the spanner off whilst abbing for gear. a sad day.
gw3285 6 May, 2011 Lead
rob.s22 ?May, 2011 Lead O/S
with S.B
with S.B
jamesgodwin64 29 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Viki 29 Apr, 2011 TR dog
stevebarratt 28 Apr, 2011 Lead
with Rob Sandercock
with Rob Sandercock
gw3285 20 Apr, 2011 TR
Hidden 10 Apr, 2011 Lead
ojp 9 Jul, 2010 2nd nice crux.
with Dave Foster, Andy
nice crux.
with Dave Foster, Andy
Dave Foster 9 Jul, 2010 Lead rpt Shouldn't have fallen off, still not sure what happened. Spanner's been tested from crux by fourteen stone, it wobbles but it's good. Pulled ropes and got it second go. Disappointing but great route. Probably not quite 5c (for the tall anyway), but all of E2.
with Andy and Si
Shouldn't have fallen off, still not sure what happened. Spanner's been tested from crux by fourteen stone, it wobbles but it's good. Pulled ropes and got it second go. Disappointing but great route. Probably not quite 5c (for the tall anyway), but all of E2.
with Andy and Si
Hidden 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2010 Lead dnf
JoEglington ?May, 2010 2nd
Hidden 24 Apr, 2010 Lead β
dave mann ??, 2010 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete ??, 2010 -
ste_d 24 Sep, 2009 TR rpt
with shunt
with shunt
HansUDes 5 Aug, 2009 2nd RP E2 5c, after Andi Stewart, Rucksack Meet
with Andi Stewart
E2 5c, after Andi Stewart, Rucksack Meet
with Andi Stewart
craig h 26 Jun, 2009 TR rpt
with Shunted
with Shunted
Stig 9 May, 2009 2nd O/S Hard and scary. Not helped by freezing fingers.
with Greg
Hard and scary. Not helped by freezing fingers.
with Greg
mattnuttall 5 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
with Alan Holden
jonnyboy 18 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Ben1983 17 Apr, 2007 Lead dog
Hidden 1 Apr, 2007 TR O/S
nige 28 Jun, 2005 Lead
with adam ellwood
with adam ellwood
shoulders 1 May, 2004 Lead
JerryD ??, 1999 -
Hidden ??, 1998 Lead
Craig Barton ??, 1997 Lead RP
ste_d 4 May, 1994 Solo
Hidden 30 Aug, 1993 TR
Roget 18 Jul, 1993 Lead O/S
with colin, baccy
with colin, baccy
Stoney Boy 27 Feb, 1993 Lead O/S
with Bob Marks
with Bob Marks
Hidden 7 Sep, 1991 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 1991 Lead O/S
craig h ?Jul, 1991 2nd
with Dnmn
with Dnmn
craig h 28 Sep, 1990 2nd O/S
with Dnmn
with Dnmn
onefootholdinthegrave ?Aug, 1990 2nd
Rich Kirby ?Aug, 1990 Lead
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 38
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set