Avoid the crag after rain - the porous rock absorbs water causing holds to become brittle. The top tier bouldering normally dries fastest and is exposed to any wind going.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully as you look in, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence.
Peregrine chicks were confirmed in 2022, 2023 was less clear and we're checking the situation for 2024. The site is actively monitored by local bird groups, please avoid until the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge. Peregrines are a protected species covered by criminal law.
Rockfax Description
A stiff little number. Climb the rounded rib to the bulges, step out right and gain the upper slab with difficulty. Finish direct to the terrace and a tussle with the grass cornice. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
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The old James turnbull | 21 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: no tension on the rope, i am quite tall and could reach a one finger pocket to help me over the buldge which felt like the crux. thought could maybe get couple of cams in the break there, admittably run out after that but not too hard(except grass top out). first time on sandstone though so not sure of the strength. will lead next time, thanks for the reply | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: no tension on the rope, i am quite tall and could reach a one finger pocket to help me over the buldge which felt like the crux. thought could maybe get couple of cams in the break there, admittably run out after that but not too hard(except grass top out). first time on sandstone though so not sure of the strength. will lead next time, thanks for the reply |
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Pekkie | 21 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: How tight was your rope? Any protection has to be arranged in the friable break and the moves are not obvious above unless chalked. Believe the grade! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: How tight was your rope? Any protection has to be arranged in the friable break and the moves are not obvious above unless chalked. Believe the grade! |
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The old James turnbull | 12 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: we put a top rope on this and got up it first go. i usually can only climb to about e1 and felt i could lead this. is it under graded? gear is not great but should be safe enough at the crux. someone let me know | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: we put a top rope on this and got up it first go. i usually can only climb to about e1 and felt i could lead this. is it under graded? gear is not great but should be safe enough at the crux. someone let me know |
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Helsby)