Restricted Access
Avoid the crag after rain - the porous rock absorbs water causing holds to become brittle. The top tier bouldering normally dries fastest and is exposed to any wind going.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully as you look in, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence.
Peregrine chicks were confirmed in 2022, 2023 was less clear and we're checking the situation for 2024. The site is actively monitored by local bird groups, please avoid until the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge. Peregrines are a protected species covered by criminal law.
Rockfax Description
A cracking hard route but with some crumbly holds. Climb the curving flake under the roof (or the wall to its left) until forced into Flake Crack. From runners balance out right and boldly climb the centre of the pitted wall. Low in the grade but exciting stuff. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This thin, but amenable, right-hand finish to Flake Crack is a steady E4 onsight with reasonable holds and only a bit of "clatter potential". Follow FC to the pockety break and big cam, move right (useful cam) then make two 5c cranks on small but lovely rugosities to an easier finish.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Helsby
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Hope Street
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Helsby)