12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. The central groove is problematical until the first decent finger-jam is reached (a V2 problem). Teeter up the scoop above (no gear after the start) to an easier finish. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Boysen 1960s 1965

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.


ClimberDateStyle
fuzzysheep01 14/May Lead G/U

A few goes at boulder problem start before it went - definitely awkward. Top slab a bit green and sandy which added spice - managed to find a decent runner on the left fortunately.

MusicalMountaineer 14/May 2nd RP

did the boulder problem, no props. nearly killed me to second it.

with Joe
Graeme Hammond 19/Mar/16 Lead G/U

Took few goes (more than I'd hoped) to figure out the boulder problem start. Bolder and more delicate above, with one very small wire might have protected the last move up the scoop.

Hidden 23/Apr/15 2nd
Ky 14/May/14 2nd

Cheeky knee bar solves all

with Wales
Andrew Abraham 14/May/14 Lead O/S

Mint route, felt great on lead. Had worked the start on a previous trip.

with Ky
JayAyBee ??/2014 Lead O/S

Really good

with Pat
nige 30/Nov/13 -
with mark hounslea
Jonathan Hall 15/Nov/13 Lead

Great, although it needed a clean first.

RM199 15/Nov/13 2nd RP
Rich Kirby 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
Darcy Turner 09/Apr/13 Solo
mark s ??/2013 -
Mike W 23/Dec/12 Solo O/S
Alex@home 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S

really nice route of 2 very contrasting halves

with The Doctor
timmyhobby 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S
cooper leek 19/Mar/10 2nd dnf
with donk
donkster 19/Mar/10 Lead RP
with ben
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
Hidden 12/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Jon Read 24/May/09 Lead
Sankey 07/May/08 2nd
with Jon
Coel Hellier 28/Feb/08 Lead
thrutch 14/Nov/07 -

Did this on a top rope. Took me ages to sort out the first few moves. The scoop above is excellent.

with helen
andi turner 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Gus & Martin
gregoritos ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Col Allott 23/May/07 Solo O/S

couldn't do the intitial groove until I found the hidden hold. ;) Upper slab like a slightly harder version of Sunset Slab -froggatt. excellent.

Hidden 29/Sep/02 TR
mark s ??/2002 Solo O/S
Gus ??/2002 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 21/Aug/96 Solo O/S
with Chief (Ian Gibbins)
tlr 15/Aug/92 Solo
Roget 20/Apr/91 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/May/84 Solo
Nigel Bond 14/Apr/84 2nd
with Charlie Leverton
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 14
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set