UKC

Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
23m. Powerful climbing and crimpy initial moves lead to a long reach to a good hold over the roof where the difficulty eases slightly.

Gary Gibson 14/Jul/1990.

Ticklists

The road to Statement of Youth , Ban-y-Gor Master , Bristol Bangers , 3 star rated 7's in Wye valley , 7Cs with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
joshdownham23 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There’s a loose block near the top of the route! Be aware it’s got a couple of crucial holds on it just below the last draw ... maybe climb almost me first and check the block out on the way down before trying it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There’s a loose block near the top of the route! Be aware it’s got a couple of crucial holds on it just below the last draw ... maybe climb almost me first and check the block out on the way down before trying it!
J1_TOV 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: My vague beta: 5 big moves in a row covering a lot of ground then a powerful shouldery sequence to get established over the roof on poor/awkward feet, finishing with a somewhat delicate top. The route flows like a dream.
Show beta
βeta: My vague beta: 5 big moves in a row covering a lot of ground then a powerful shouldery sequence to get established over the roof on poor/awkward feet, finishing with a somewhat delicate top. The route flows like a dream.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor

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Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Boys don't cry

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Tintern Quarry)

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