A tough climb that is the quintessential main cliff experience. Start at a left-facing corner right of the tree with a notice board attached to it. Head easily up the corner and ledges above it to the midway break. Move up steep rock direct on large tufa's and pockets to arrive under the roof. Overcome the roof at its apex via a powerful sequence and climb the wall above to a lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Ultra steep route on big tufas and pockets leading to a crux section and tricky finish. The corner groove at the start has now been bolted. If you lead the route from the ground (rather than belaying from the pillar) the rope runs easily if you don't clip the pedestal bolt, but drags over edges if you do. You can climb up, clip the first roof bolt, then come down and remove it.
Gary Gibson 15/Jul/1990.
Classic UK F7s , Rock cats getting strong , 30 For My 30s , The must do 7's I haven't done b4 I'm to old , Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal , The road to Statement of Youth , Ban-y-Gor Master , Bristol Bangers , 3 star rated 7's in Wye valley , UK Flowstone , 7Cs with stars near Bristol
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