Restricted Access
A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,
This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too:
- All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
- Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply
- Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat
- No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
- Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
- No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
- No further new routing
Rockfax Description
A tough climb that is the quintessential main cliff experience. Start at a left-facing corner right of the tree with a notice board attached to it. Head easily up the corner and ledges above it to the midway break. Move up steep rock direct on large tufa's and pockets to arrive under the roof. Overcome the roof at its apex via a powerful sequence and climb the wall above to a lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Ultra steep route on big tufas and pockets leading to a crux section and tricky finish. The corner groove at the start has now been bolted. If you lead the route from the ground (rather than belaying from the pillar) the rope runs easily if you don't clip the pedestal bolt, but drags over edges if you do. You can climb up, clip the first roof bolt, then come down and remove it.
Gary Gibson 15/Jul/1990.
Ticklists
Classic UK F7s , Rock cats getting strong , 30 For My 30s , The must do 7's I haven't done b4 I'm to old , Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal , The road to Statement of Youth , Ban-y-Gor Master , Bristol Bangers , 3 star rated 7's in Wye valley , UK Flowstone , 7Cs with stars near Bristol
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| tommccluskey | 23 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Missing block makes no difference - still brilliant and still soft! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Missing block makes no difference - still brilliant and still soft! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor
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Dinosaur Heaven: Return from Extinction
Grade: 7c ***
(Wintour's Leap)