Rockfax Description
Amazing positions on the second pitch make this a memorable route that luckily has a bark far worse than its bite! Start at the wide crack/gully beneath the red tower, a distinct feature of the left side of the buttress.
1) 12m. Climb up via the easiest line and belay on a ledge below the sheer red wall on the left.
2) 4a, 13m. An intimidating pitch. Climb the sheer red wall to the left on surprisingly good holds to a ledge.
3) 4a, 12m. Climb up to the summit of the buttress and make a stride across to a chimney on the left and follow it to a large ledge.
4) 4a, 17m. Take the line of cracks from the back of the ledge, that lead steeply at first, to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, South West VDiff-HVS

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UserDateNotes
Graeme Hammond 11 Sep Show βeta
βeta: At least HS as per CC guide for 2nd red wall pitch! Carried on right to the top of the pinicale above P4. Led 2 + 4.
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Show beta
βeta: At least HS as per CC guide for 2nd red wall pitch! Carried on right to the top of the pinicale above P4. Led 2 + 4.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 15 Sep Lead
Chimnastics 14 Sep 2nd O/S Nice route. Let Andy lead the entire route to practice his MCI ting. And a fine job he did too! Nice route, definitely HS, as in the CC guide, not Sev. The main pitch, and steep part of P3 are no gimme at the grade.
with Andy Fleming, Cherish
Nice route. Let Andy lead the entire route to practice his MCI ting. And a fine job he did too! Nice route, definitely HS, as in the CC guide, not Sev. The main pitch, and steep part of P3 are no gimme at the grade.
with Andy Fleming, Cherish
Hidden 14 Sep AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 4 Sep AltLd O/S
with Becky E
with Becky E
JonRead71 6 Jul 2nd
Hidden 22 Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 May AltLd
Hidden 26 May AltLd O/S
climbdevon 25 May -
Bob M 18 May -
Norman_P_W 18 May AltLd
with Bob M
with Bob M
Lawcallum 11 May AltLd O/S
John MacQuarrie 11 May 2nd
with cornishbekx, Luca
with cornishbekx, Luca
justaddpowder 11 May AltLd
EmilyElouise 5 May AltLd O/S
with Andy and Danny
with Andy and Danny
Hidden 5 May AltLd
Half Pint Lizz 21 Apr AltLd O/S I led 1st and 3rd, Robert 2nd and 4th - a wonderful route!
with rd20
I led 1st and 3rd, Robert 2nd and 4th - a wonderful route!
with rd20
rd20 21 Apr AltLd O/S RD P2 and 4
RD P2 and 4
Hidden 23 Mar AltLd
KernowCrag 20 Jan 2nd O/S
Jim blackford 20 Jan Lead O/S P1 is bold enough to merit HS grade . Nice route
P1 is bold enough to merit HS grade . Nice route
GuyC 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd rpt
with James Wilby, Jon Bell
with James Wilby, Jon Bell
John MacQuarrie 29 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Second climb of the day, cracking, sustained throughout, good exposure
Second climb of the day, cracking, sustained throughout, good exposure
Raggar 29 Sep, 2018 2nd
with Ian M
with Ian M
joem 13 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
ClareM.123 13 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Done in 3 pitches, led first and last pitch. HS in Joes guidebook.
with Heather McCarty, joem
Done in 3 pitches, led first and last pitch. HS in Joes guidebook.
with Heather McCarty, joem
lizbarilepage 25 Aug, 2018 AltLd
with Matt Goater
with Matt Goater
Georgina Brooke 15 Jul, 2018 Lead dog got pumped on the last bit of cracks and rested on gear!
got pumped on the last bit of cracks and rested on gear!
net 3 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Peri
with Peri
runwildjohn 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd I led p 1 and 3, Patrick led 2 and 4.
I led p 1 and 3, Patrick led 2 and 4.
GilesR 28 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Mike (Rockhopper)
with Mike (Rockhopper)
blahblahblah 28 May, 2018 AltLd rpt led 1st and 3rd pitches. 1st = wet, slimy and very slippy / 3rd = stinking and covered in bird poo. Glad to finish.
with Giles Robertson
led 1st and 3rd pitches. 1st = wet, slimy and very slippy / 3rd = stinking and covered in bird poo. Glad to finish.
with Giles Robertson
Hidden 16 May, 2018 2nd rpt
evhall 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S all pitches - with goat's mates
with goat
all pitches - with goat's mates
with goat
The_Boy_ODwyer 6 May, 2018 2nd
inspiration_needed 6 May, 2018 Lead O/S
2602steve ?Aug, 2017 AltLd It's a HS as in the CC guide. The red wall is steep and a bit pumpy in places, gear takes some attention. Got a bit lost on the top pitch, just followed my nose and it wasn't great, should've look at the book.
It's a HS as in the CC guide. The red wall is steep and a bit pumpy in places, gear takes some attention. Got a bit lost on the top pitch, just followed my nose and it wasn't great, should've look at the book.
Hidden 6 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
jhobbs 6 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
Rob Seymour 23 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Tough at the grade, we thought: P2 is steep, protection is reasonable but not always obvious. Short but hard rain on P3 didn't help and it was dirty as well.
with Ron Chambers
Tough at the grade, we thought: P2 is steep, protection is reasonable but not always obvious. Short but hard rain on P3 didn't help and it was dirty as well.
with Ron Chambers
jimmysdead 16 Apr, 2017 AltLd Pitches 1 & 3 again. Great route in the sunshine
with Clive
Pitches 1 & 3 again. Great route in the sunshine
with Clive
petegruf 14 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with paul c, Christina
with paul c, Christina
Christina 14 Apr, 2017 2nd
with petegruf, Paul Clarkson
with petegruf, Paul Clarkson
andy_pemberton 26 Nov, 2016 AltLd
with Dave Marshall
with Dave Marshall
samulejones 29 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S I led first and third pitch, Alex led second and fourth
with Alex Cibulski
I led first and third pitch, Alex led second and fourth
with Alex Cibulski
AlexCib 29 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S A great climb in a gorgeous location. We traversed in from Zawn Rinny - a little awkwardly as the tide was too high, so we belayed from a ledge above the start of the climb. Led P2 and P4. Both are quite intimidating and sustained. They felt hard for the grade, more like HS, but great fun (as was launching across the gap into the chimney on P3!). A fantastic way to round off the trip!
A great climb in a gorgeous location. We traversed in from Zawn Rinny - a little awkwardly as the tide was too high, so we belayed from a ledge above the start of the climb. Led P2 and P4. Both are quite intimidating and sustained. They felt hard for the grade, more like HS, but great fun (as was launching across the gap into the chimney on P3!). A fantastic way to round off the trip!
Daniel Wicks 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Colin and Hannah
with Colin and Hannah
whiting.jp 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with jamesca
with jamesca
Hidden 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Jim Malo 21 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
with Stu
with Stu
patb82 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd Led 2nd pitch, climbed in big boots. 2nd pitch was a great climb!
with Nath Mason
Led 2nd pitch, climbed in big boots. 2nd pitch was a great climb!
with Nath Mason
Paul1 28 May, 2016 AltLd Lead 2nd pitch, scary
with Uncle John
Lead 2nd pitch, scary
with Uncle John
P Gard ?May, 2016 Lead O/S
benwarrick 6 Mar, 2016 -
funkyvin1 18 Oct, 2015 AltLd Led pitches 1, 2 & 4.
Led pitches 1, 2 & 4.
Alexseren 9 Sep, 2015 AltLd
ianburton 5 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Charlie's Angel
with Charlie's Angel
jeremyftaylor 29 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead pitch two which was steep and I found the gear tricky. Wimped out of pitch 4 and marianne stepped in. Damp at the bottom and somewhat smelly and guano covered.
Lead pitch two which was steep and I found the gear tricky. Wimped out of pitch 4 and marianne stepped in. Damp at the bottom and somewhat smelly and guano covered.
Bruise Apprentice 29 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Led P1, P3 and P4. Classic steep Chair Ladder climbing, even in the easier grades. Still stinks of guano and half-digested fish even after the nesting season.
Led P1, P3 and P4. Classic steep Chair Ladder climbing, even in the easier grades. Still stinks of guano and half-digested fish even after the nesting season.
Matt Harmon 8 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S soloed P1, Led P4.
soloed P1, Led P4.
Sarah Roscoe 8 Aug, 2015 AltLd
Neil D ?Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
with James Barker, Nathanael Booker, Betha.
with James Barker, Nathanael Booker, Betha.
whiteexplorer 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Dave Piper
with Dave Piper
Anthony Dixon 23 Jun, 2015 AltLd
with Shann
with Shann
Steve Lenartowicz 21 Jun, 2015 Lead
with Clare
with Clare
AlistairBerridge 15 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with UoN Climbing Club Member/Fresher
with UoN Climbing Club Member/Fresher
Hidden ?Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
neilstubbs 12 Apr, 2015 AltLd rpt Done before but no way severe, HS in W. Cornwall guide which is fairer.
with Stefan Parkin
Done before but no way severe, HS in W. Cornwall guide which is fairer.
with Stefan Parkin
Skullfire 6 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Jun Minohara
with Jun Minohara
Hidden 6 Apr, 2015 2nd
Poco Loco 4 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Very enjoyable, steep but juggy red wall section. I found the step into the chimney on P3 the hardest bit!
with Becky
Very enjoyable, steep but juggy red wall section. I found the step into the chimney on P3 the hardest bit!
with Becky
gingerbex 4 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 27 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Martin Bennett 14 Sep, 2014 -
with Ali
with Ali
Steve Woollard 13 Aug, 2014 2nd
with crater
with crater
crater 13 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with steve
with steve
knighty 3 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Great stuff. Shame I didn't know where I was going! A few too many rotting sea birds for my liking though.
Great stuff. Shame I didn't know where I was going! A few too many rotting sea birds for my liking though.
MinHazeldine 15 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 5 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 5 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Jay Jackson, Jayne Bulbeck
with Jay Jackson, Jayne Bulbeck
sarah hawker 18 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S I led P2 and P4
with mariner
I led P2 and P4
with mariner
jhb0510 15 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Thought the CC grade of HS was fairer than the Rockfax one of S.
with Min, Mike Weare
Thought the CC grade of HS was fairer than the Rockfax one of S.
with Min, Mike Weare
Ian Stirrups ?Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Sue
with Sue
AliceKerr ?May, 2014 AltLd
r.greaves 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd
with Ian smith
with Ian smith
Hidden ??, 2014 -
andybenham 23 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
with Ben
with Ben
Wendy Watthews 5 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S soloed pitch one to get away from the waves, led p3
soloed pitch one to get away from the waves, led p3
arandall 5 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S I lead to the top of the red wall, then the last pitch.
I lead to the top of the red wall, then the last pitch.
stratandrew 15 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Good route. worth doing. Solo'd P1. led P2 & P4.
with Dave Wylie
Good route. worth doing. Solo'd P1. led P2 & P4.
with Dave Wylie
Hidden 4 Sep, 2013 AltLd
neilstubbs 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Scrambled up P1, Carl led 2 (steep) and on a bit and I led most of 3 &4 together to finish.
Scrambled up P1, Carl led 2 (steep) and on a bit and I led most of 3 &4 together to finish.
carlgodfrey 13 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with neil stubbs
with neil stubbs
Dilwat 26 Apr, 2013 AltLd P1 & P3 good but smelly
P1 & P3 good but smelly
th£wrecker 26 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S P2AND4
with dillwat
P2AND4
with dillwat
Marcin78 ??, 2013 Lead
with Tomek
with Tomek
haz rudry ??, 2013 AltLd
Philippa Arding 10 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with olan oarkinson
with olan oarkinson
Laurence Cowton 26 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Wet and covered in seagull crap and moss. Unpleasant and smelly.
with Donald
Wet and covered in seagull crap and moss. Unpleasant and smelly.
with Donald
fall-line 26 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S A bit of an experience! Very wet, green and covered in guano. Type 2!
with Laurence
A bit of an experience! Very wet, green and covered in guano. Type 2!
with Laurence
erica 6 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Led 1 and 4. What a good route, great position, perfect weather (before the gale force winds came)
Led 1 and 4. What a good route, great position, perfect weather (before the gale force winds came)
John Brayshaw 6 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
with erica
with erica
rfdl100 6 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Simon Waters
with Simon Waters
hazeysunshine 12 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Fred
with Fred
Hidden 8 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
jimmysdead 7 Apr, 2012 AltLd lead pitches 1 and 3, 3rd pitch awkward chimney, pitch 2 looks like fun on the sharp end. Awkward escape involving keeping on-rope belay.
with Charlotte
lead pitches 1 and 3, 3rd pitch awkward chimney, pitch 2 looks like fun on the sharp end. Awkward escape involving keeping on-rope belay.
with Charlotte
Hidden 6 Apr, 2012 AltLd
Fiona McFarlane 9 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S I led 2nd & 4th pitches
with Helen King
I led 2nd & 4th pitches
with Helen King
popov86 16 Feb, 2012 AltLd
BALD EAGLE 8 Oct, 2011 AltLd
with Sarah Flint, Rob Horler
with Sarah Flint, Rob Horler
Hidden 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd rpt
five 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
with AC, PW
with AC, PW
Ian Bell 14 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Beautiful sun and a great sea cliff day.
with Krista
Beautiful sun and a great sea cliff day.
with Krista
krispy_fish2000 14 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Cindy
with Cindy
Philippa Arding 9 Aug, 2011 AltLd
with nick arding
with nick arding
Hidden 5 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
Slarti B 30 May, 2011 Lead O/S Started halfway up P1 due to tide. Lead all pitches. Based on Rockfax guide I thought route P2 went up front of face, not side, and thought I had wimped out when I went up side! Nice apart from thuggish chimney bit on P3
with Dominique
Started halfway up P1 due to tide. Lead all pitches. Based on Rockfax guide I thought route P2 went up front of face, not side, and thought I had wimped out when I went up side! Nice apart from thuggish chimney bit on P3
with Dominique
Hidden 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
dale1968 30 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
timreynolds 30 Apr, 2011 AltLd
with Chris Clayton-Jones
with Chris Clayton-Jones
Martin Stevens 20 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Mervyn L.
with Mervyn L.
TCarrick 6 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S Covered in bird poo! but with interesting moves on pitch 2 and 3
Covered in bird poo! but with interesting moves on pitch 2 and 3
Hidden 5 Mar, 2011 AltLd
Bob M 25 Oct, 2010 AltLd
edpd1b 30 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Leo Scheltinga, crag_monster
with Leo Scheltinga, crag_monster
crag_monster 30 Aug, 2010 AltLd
with edpd1b
with edpd1b
crag_monster 30 Aug, 2010 AltLd
with edpd1b
with edpd1b
Hidden 2 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
Freddie 1 2 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Andyh83
with Andyh83
Hidden 21 Apr, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 12 Oct, 2008 Lead
Lois 2 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with Becca Jury
with Becca Jury
bigrob ?Aug, 2008 Lead
with caz neely
with caz neely
31770 5 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
mikehenesy 3 May, 2008 AltLd O/S Got scared on seconding the second pitch. Got shat on, a bit of light relief. I can still smell the guano.
with Chris Lodge
Got scared on seconding the second pitch. Got shat on, a bit of light relief. I can still smell the guano.
with Chris Lodge
liz77 1 Sep, 2007 AltLd rpt P3 & 4
with HRC
P3 & 4
with HRC
richardr ?Sep, 2007 AltLd
blahblahblah 5 May, 2007 AltLd O/S Led 1st and 3rd
with Selena Chen
Led 1st and 3rd
with Selena Chen
Hidden 5 May, 2007 2nd
Rup D 13 Apr, 2007 Lead
with Paul Greenhow
with Paul Greenhow
mooseloose 13 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S Tide high, started halfway up 1st pitch, scramble in from ledge on left. Led remainder of pitch 1 and the red wall Rob completed remainder. The red wall itself is full of protection, good holds and good feet. The moves left to the arete are pleasantly exposed. Expect lots of Guano on large belay ledges (gulls not mine)
with Robo
Tide high, started halfway up 1st pitch, scramble in from ledge on left. Led remainder of pitch 1 and the red wall Rob completed remainder. The red wall itself is full of protection, good holds and good feet. The moves left to the arete are pleasantly exposed. Expect lots of Guano on large belay ledges (gulls not mine)
with Robo
Hidden 13 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
crossdressingrodney 2 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S Found this disconcerting and lacking in decent gear.
Found this disconcerting and lacking in decent gear.
victim of mathematics 2 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 May, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Apr, 2006 Lead
Souljah 13 Apr, 2006 Lead wet + windy + lots of quano = good fun
with Derrek
wet + windy + lots of quano = good fun
with Derrek
Danos ?Apr, 2006 AltLd
with Danjou
with Danjou
Hidden ?Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
GuyC 9 Apr, 2004 AltLd rpt Realised I needed glasses after struggling with gear on the Red Wall pitch
with Clare
Realised I needed glasses after struggling with gear on the Red Wall pitch
with Clare
MazElden ?Apr, 2004 -
Hidden ?Feb, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Aug, 2003 AltLd
Hidden 31 May, 2003 Lead
Samuel Palmer 31 May, 2003 2nd
with Gareth
with Gareth
Mark Davies PK ?Aug, 2002 AltLd O/S
with Laura
with Laura
andy_pemberton ??, 2001 Lead
with Katharine Pemberton
with Katharine Pemberton
Hidden ??, 2001 -
Steveb27 ??, 2000 AltLd
EllieWoods 1 Sep, 1999 2nd O/S
with Kath Rosedale, Laura
with Kath Rosedale, Laura
Hidden 3 May, 1999 Lead
timreynolds 2 May, 1999 AltLd
with David Baines
with David Baines
cpoad 1 May, 1999 Lead O/S
with Clare F
with Clare F
Hidden 13 Aug, 1998 Lead O/S
Iain Brown 21 Mar, 1998 -
with Gerdy
with Gerdy
plain kitten 30 Jul, 1997 Lead Ben + Ems, NC
Ben + Ems, NC
Raggar 9 Mar, 1997 AltLd Repeat lead
with Stefan S, Jon B
Repeat lead
with Stefan S, Jon B
belay bunny turned bad ??, 1997 Lead
Rog Wilko ?Mar, 1996 AltLd Good route, probably worth HS. Bold first pitch.
with Alan Nuttall
Good route, probably worth HS. Bold first pitch.
with Alan Nuttall
crossleysm ??, 1996 Lead O/S
GuyC 6 May, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Raggar, Clare
with Raggar, Clare
Raggar 6 May, 1995 AltLd
with GuyC
with GuyC
Alan Scowcroft 16 Apr, 1995 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Apr, 1995 AltLd O/S
colin milton 19 Mar, 1995 AltLd
with eric milton
with eric milton
Hidden 31 Aug, 1993 AltLd O/S
climbingrichard 9 Apr, 1993 Lead O/S
Steve Claw ??, 1992 -
Hidden 26 May, 1991 Lead O/S
auld al ?Apr, 1991 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 1989 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Jul, 1987 2nd O/S
Tony Buckley ?May, 1987 AltLd
with Richard Brockman
with Richard Brockman
RichardMc 15 Apr, 1979 AltLd
Steve Woollard ??, 1978 Lead
Brian Wilderspin ??, 1978 AltLd O/S
Simon cook ?May, 1976 -
Hidden ??, 1976 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1974 Lead
Andy Say ??, 1969 Lead O/S
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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 44
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set