Rockfax Description
Amazing positions on the second pitch make this a memorable route that luckily has a bark far worse than its bite! Start at the wide crack/gully beneath the red tower, a distinct feature of the left side of the buttress.
1) 12m. Climb up via the easiest line and belay on a ledge below the sheer red wall on the left.
2) 4a, 13m. An intimidating pitch. Climb the sheer red wall to the left on surprisingly good holds to a ledge.
3) 4a, 12m. Climb up to the summit of the buttress and make a stride across to a chimney on the left and follow it to a large ledge.
4) 4a, 17m. Take the line of cracks from the back of the ledge, that lead steeply at first, to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, South West VDiff-HVS.

2602steve ?/Aug AltLd

It's a HS as in the CC guide. The red wall is steep and a bit pumpy in places, gear takes some attention. Got a bit lost on the top pitch, just followed my nose and it wasn't great, should've look at the book.

Hidden 06/Jul Lead O/S
jhobbs 06/Jul 2nd O/S
Rob Seymour 23/Jun Lead O/S

Tough at the grade, we thought: P2 is steep, protection is reasonable but not always obvious. Short but hard rain on P3 didn't help and it was dirty as well.

with Ron Chambers
jimmysdead 16/Apr AltLd

Pitches 1 & 3 again. Great route in the sunshine

with Clive
petegruf 14/Apr AltLd
with paul c, ChristinaAllen
Christina 14/Apr 2nd
with Peter Murphy, Paul Clarkson
andy_pemberton 26/Nov/16 AltLd
with Dave Marshall
samulejones 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

I led first and third pitch, Alex led second and fourth

with Alex Cibulski
AlexCib 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

A great climb in a gorgeous location. We traversed in from Zawn Rinny - a little awkwardly as the tide was too high, so we belayed from a ledge above the start of the climb. Led P2 and P4. Both are quite intimidating and sustained. They felt hard for the grade, more like HS, but great fun (as was launching across the gap into the chimney on P3!). A fantastic way to round off the trip!

with Sam
Daniel Wicks 18/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Colin and Hannah
Hidden 06/Aug/16 AltLd
Jim Malo 21/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Stu
patb82 19/Jul/16 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch, climbed in big boots. 2nd pitch was a great climb!

with Nath Mason
Paul1 28/May/16 AltLd

Lead 2nd pitch, scary

with Uncle John
P Gard ?/May/16 Lead O/S
benwarrick 06/Mar/16 -
funkyvin1 18/Oct/15 AltLd

Led pitches 1, 2 & 4.

with Diccon
Alexseren 09/Sep/15 AltLd
ianburton 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
jeremyftaylor 29/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch two which was steep and I found the gear tricky. Wimped out of pitch 4 and marianne stepped in. Damp at the bottom and somewhat smelly and guano covered.

mariannekhoo 29/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3 and P4. Classic steep Chair Ladder climbing, even in the easier grades. Still stinks of guano and half-digested fish even after the nesting season.

Matt Harmon 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

soloed P1, Led P4.

Sarah Roscoe 08/Aug/15 AltLd
Neil D ?/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with James Barker, Nathanael Booker, Beth Hodgett
whiteexplorer 31/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Dave Piper
Anthony Dixon 23/Jun/15 AltLd
with Shann
Steve Lenartowicz 21/Jun/15 Lead
with Clare
AlistairBerridge 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with UoN Climbing Club Member/Fresher
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
neilstubbs 12/Apr/15 AltLd rpt

Done before but no way severe, HS in W. Cornwall guide which is fairer.

with Stefan Parkin
Skullfire 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Jun Minohara
Hidden 06/Apr/15 2nd
Poco Loco 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable, steep but juggy red wall section. I found the step into the chimney on P3 the hardest bit!

with Becky
gingerbex 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 AltLd
Martin Bennett 14/Sep/14 -
with Ali
Steve Woollard 13/Aug/14 2nd
with Donald
crater 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with steve
knighty 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Great stuff. Shame I didn't know where I was going! A few too many rotting sea birds for my liking though.

MinHazeldine 15/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Jay Jackson, Jayne Bulbeck
sarah hawker 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

I led P2 and P4

with bob
jhb0510 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Thought the CC grade of HS was fairer than the Rockfax one of S.

with Min, Mike Weare
Ian Stirrups ?/Jun/14 AltLd
with Sue
AliceKerr ?/May/14 AltLd
r.greaves 19/Apr/14 AltLd
with Ian smith
Hidden ??/2014 -
andybenham 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Ben
Wendy Watthews 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

soloed pitch one to get away from the waves, led p3

arandall 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

I lead to the top of the red wall, then the last pitch.

stratandrew 15/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Good route. worth doing. Solo'd P1. led P2 & P4.

with Dave Wylie
Hidden 04/Sep/13 AltLd
neilstubbs 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Scrambled up P1, Carl led 2 (steep) and on a bit and I led most of 3 &4 together to finish.

carlgodfrey 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with neil stubbs
Dilwat 26/Apr/13 AltLd

P1 & P3 good but smelly

with dready
dready 26/Apr/13 AltLd O/S


with dillwat
Marcin78 ??/2013 Lead
with Tomek
haz rudry ??/2013 AltLd
Philippa Arding 10/Jul/12 AltLd
with olan oarkinson
Laurence Cowton 26/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Wet and covered in seagull crap and moss. Unpleasant and smelly.

with Donald
fall-line 26/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

A bit of an experience! Very wet, green and covered in guano. Type 2!

with Laurence
erica 06/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led 1 and 4. What a good route, great position, perfect weather (before the gale force winds came)

with John
John Brayshaw 06/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Erica
rfdl100 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Simon Waters
hazeysunshine 12/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Fred
Hidden 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
jimmysdead 07/Apr/12 AltLd

lead pitches 1 and 3, 3rd pitch awkward chimney, pitch 2 looks like fun on the sharp end. Awkward escape involving keeping on-rope belay.

with Charlotte
Hidden 06/Apr/12 AltLd
Fiona McFarlane 09/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

I led 2nd & 4th pitches

with Helen King
popov86 16/Feb/12 AltLd
BALD EAGLE 08/Oct/11 AltLd
with Sarah Flint, Rob Horler
Hidden 01/Oct/11 AltLd rpt
five 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with AC, PW
Ian Bell 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Beautiful sun and a great sea cliff day.

with Krista
krispy_fish2000 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Cindy
Philippa Arding 09/Aug/11 AltLd
with nick arding
Hidden 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Slarti B 30/May/11 Lead O/S

Started halfway up P1 due to tide. Lead all pitches. Based on Rockfax guide I thought route P2 went up front of face, not side, and thought I had wimped out when I went up side! Nice apart from thuggish chimney bit on P3

with Dominique
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
dale1968 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Tom
timreynolds 30/Apr/11 AltLd
with Chris Clayton-Jones
Martin Stevens 20/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Mervyn L.
TCarrick 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Covered in bird poo! but with interesting moves on pitch 2 and 3

Hidden 05/Mar/11 AltLd
Bob M 25/Oct/10 AltLd
edpd1b 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Leo Scheltinga, Kelly Hillyer
crag_monster 30/Aug/10 AltLd
crag_monster 30/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 02/May/10 AltLd O/S
Freddie 1 02/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Andyh83
Hidden 21/Apr/10 AltLd
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead
Lois 02/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Becca Jury
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead
31770 05/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/08 AltLd O/S
mikehenesy 03/May/08 AltLd O/S

Got scared on seconding the second pitch. Got shat on, a bit of light relief. I can still smell the guano.

with Chris Lodge
liz77 01/Sep/07 AltLd rpt

P3 & 4

with HRC
richardr ?/Sep/07 AltLd
Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd
Rup D 13/Apr/07 Lead
with Paul Greenhow
mooseloose 13/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Tide high, started halfway up 1st pitch, scramble in from ledge on left. Led remainder of pitch 1 and the red wall Rob completed remainder. The red wall itself is full of protection, good holds and good feet. The moves left to the arete are pleasantly exposed. Expect lots of Guano on large belay ledges (gulls not mine)

with Robo
csalvage 13/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Is HS in guide and def should be. Very adventurous route. Struggled to get decent gear on steep wall pitch 2. Pitch 3 awesome but easy step across from the pinnacle in amazing position. Steep little problem on pitch 4 felt a bit more than 4a then easy up the green slabs. 'Alpine' ridge scramble to finish. memorable.

with Angela
crossdressingrodney 02/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Found this disconcerting and lacking in decent gear.

victim of mathematics 02/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/06 Lead
Souljah 13/Apr/06 Lead

wet + windy + lots of quano = good fun

with Derrek
Danos ?/Apr/06 AltLd
with Danjou
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead
MazElden ?/Apr/04 -
Hidden ?/Feb/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/03 AltLd
Hidden 31/May/03 Lead
Samuel P 31/May/03 2nd
with Gareth
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Laura
andy_pemberton ??/2001 Lead
with Katharine Pemberton
Hidden ??/2001 -
Steveb27 ??/2000 AltLd
EllieWoods 01/Sep/99 2nd O/S
with Kath Rosedale, Laura
Hidden 03/May/99 Lead
timreynolds 02/May/99 AltLd
with David Baines
PaulTanton 13/Aug/98 Lead O/S
plain kitten 30/Jul/97 Lead

Ben + Ems, NC

Raggar 09/Mar/97 AltLd

Repeat lead

with Stefan S, Jon B
belay bunny turned bad ??/1997 Lead
Rog Wilko ?/Mar/96 AltLd

Good route, probably worth HS. Bold first pitch.

with Alan Nuttall
Hidden 15/Apr/95 AltLd O/S
colin milton 19/Mar/95 AltLd
with eric milton
Hidden 31/Aug/93 AltLd O/S
climbingrichard 09/Apr/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/91 Lead O/S
auld al ?/Apr/91 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/87 2nd O/S
Tony Buckley ?/May/87 AltLd
with Richard Brockman
RichardMc 15/Apr/79 AltLd
Steve Woollard ??/1978 Lead
Simon cook ?/May/76 -
Paul Clarke ??/1976 -
with Mike Lynch, FMC
jon ?/Aug/74 Lead
with Elaine
Andy Say ??/1969 Lead O/S
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High HS
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High S
Mid S
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High HVD
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High 4b
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High 3c
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Votes cast 36
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