UKC Logbook - Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall

Contributed by George Muston Aug/20 - This public ticklist has been seen 1,249 times

The best routes in West Penwith for honing your trad skills. Routes are listed in order of difficulty, both in terms of the order they have been listed, and the grade by which they have been divided. I've included everything up to low/mid grade HVS. I can't give you any of the individual info on any of the routes on here, so if there's anything you want to know firstly check UKC comments, and/or secondly drop me a line. I will send you separately a list of hazards you need to be aware of for each crag. Mega classics like Commando Ridge and Right Angle have not been included as you will want CONSIDERABLE experience of ropework/abseiling, and the like before you do them in order to enjoy them properly. Esoteric but good crags have been left out, these will be worth exploring when you have the experience needed, but not before. You will want/need a copy of West Country Climbs and/or the Climbers Club North and South Coast Cornwall guidebooks. Enjoy!

High above the sea at Carn Barra © CornishLau — High above the sea at Carn Barra
© CornishLau, May 2019

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	User	Percentage	Latest Log
1st	George Muston	73%	10 Apr
2nd	steve_gibbs	57%	15 Sep, 2024
3rd	Briggsy	46%	5 May
4th	Chenks	31%	13 Aug
5th	L.Bruten	13%	29 May, 2021
5th	Phil79	13%	22 Apr, 2022
6th	a.lloydharris	10%	21 Apr
7th	James Coates	8%	5 Sep, 2020
8th	fochocki	6%	19 Aug
9th	Joshua Brumpton	5%	27 Sep, 2020

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Wishlist Routes

Logged Routes

Darken logged

Cluster markers

Distribution of grades - Trad

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Jen Oliver on the famous last few moves of Demo Route © Luke Carroll

First time leading a route since losing my leg 4 years ago. © Marc Elliott

Getting some in between the showers. Luwi following Fraser up Shorty's Folly. © Tom Last

Checking out that move ........ © Sean Kelly

If only that top layback was longer....! © Dave Wylie

Add	Climb name	Grade	Ticks?	Height		Crag name
	DIFF
1	Corner and Staircase	D *	1053	13m		Roche Rock
2	Junior's Route	D **	748	20m		Sennen
3	Senior's Route	D *	946	20m		Sennen
4	Staircase	D **	1855	18m		Sennen
5	A Little Gemma	D *	120	20m		Pen Olver
6	Main Face Climb	D **	958	23m	• 2	Sennen
7	Alison Rib	D ***	4457	59m	• 3	Bosigran
8	Sinner's Route	D **	608	24m	• 2	Sennen
9	Black Slab	D **	1499	43m	• 2	Bosigran
10	The Groove	D	242	12m		Trewavas
	VDIFF
11	Bending Chimney	VD *	590	17m		Trewavas
12	Ivy Chimney	VD	360	14m		Trewavas
13	Blind Pew	VD **	304	25m		Pen Olver
14	Great Slanting	VD **	257	15m		Pen Olver
15	Sancho	VD *	569	18m		Trewavas
16	In-Between	VD **	1862	33m		Bosigran
17	Kate	VD *	1129	33m		Bosigran
18	Big Top	VD *	1556	25m		Bosigran
19	Corner Climb	VD **	2301	20m		Sennen
20	Banana Flake	VD **	1873	22m	• 2	Sennen
21	Black Slab	VD *	883	24m	• 2	Sennen
22	Dowser's Route/Porthgwarra Face	VD ***	314	42m	• 3	Porthgwarra...
23	Peel Crack	HVD **	417	15m		Carn Barra
24	Rake's Progress	VD **	200	56m	• 4	Chair Ladder
25	Oread	HVD *	1433	33m		Bosigran
26	Intermediate Route	HVD *	1243	19m	• 2	Sennen
27	No Name	HVD **	745	20m		Sennen
28	Ledge Climb	HVD ***	1875	73m	• 3	Bosigran
29	South East Buttress	VD **	532	18m		Roche Rock
	SEVERE
30	Mouseproof	S 4a *	739	13m		Trewavas
31	Tregagle's Crack	S 4a *	844	8m		Roche Rock
32	Hubble Drect	S 4a	207	15m		Trewavas
33	Joy	S 4a *	966	18m		Trewavas
34	Ochre Slab Route II	S 4a **	1200	32m	• 2	Bosigran
35	Saltheart	S 4a *	175	15m		Pen Olver
36	Doorway	S 4a **	2513	60m	• 3	Bosigran
37	Pendulum Chimney	S 4b ***	1202	59m	• 5	Chair Ladder
38	Helluva Slab	S 4a **	315	43m	• 3	Porthgwarra...
39	Dong	S 4b **	852	39m	• 3	Bosigran
40	Red Wall	HS 4b **	340	54m	• 4	Chair Ladder
	HARD SEVERE
41	Cornel	HS 4b *	433	12m		Trewavas
42	Sidestep	HS 4b *	232	17m		Trewavas
43	Tregagle's Buttress	HS 4b **	512	8m		Roche Rock
44	Doorpost	HS 4b ***	4201	67m	• 3	Bosigran
45	Autumn Flakes	HS 4b **	1124	56m	• 3	Bosigran
46	Flannel Avenue	HS 4b ***	396	52m	• 3	Chair Ladder
47	Demo Route	HS 4b ***	4006	19m	• 2	Sennen
48	Terrier's Tooth	HS 4b ***	670	40m	• 3	Chair Ladder
49	Letterbox	HS 4b **	1105	22m	• 2	Sennen
50	Civvy Route	HS 4b **	1169	22m	• 2	Sennen
51	Pegasus	HS 4b ***	781	70m	• 3	Chair Ladder
	GOOD FIRST VS'S
52	Moping Owl	VS 4c *	385	19m		Roche Rock
53	Mascara	VS 4c **	777	20m		Trewavas
54	Joy Direct	VS 4c *	279	18m		Trewavas
55	Vertical Crack	VS 4c **	1247	20m		Sennen
56	Double Overhang	VS 4c **	1251	18m		Sennen
57	Avalanche	VS 5a **	595	14m		Trewavas
58	Porky	VS 4c **	883	17m		Roche Rock
59	The Arête	VS 4b **	1026	27m		Sennen
60	Monday Face	VS 4b **	842	20m		Sennen
61	Seal Slab	VS 4c **	513	58m	• 3	Chair Ladder
62	Nameless	VS 4c ***	1172	58m	• 3	Bosigran
63	Zig Zag	VS 4c **	771	49m	• 3	Bosigran
64	Songs from a Gentle Man	VS 4b **	169	25m		Pen Olver
65	Venusberg	VS 4c **	832	51m	• 5	Bosigran
66	Ding	VS 4c **	941	42m	• 2	Bosigran
	TRICKIER VS'S
67	The Royal Forester	VS 4c **	442	27m		Zennor Cliff
68	Little Brown Jug	VS 5a ***	3384	66m	• 3	Bosigran
69	Aerial	VS 4c **	309	47m	• 3	Chair Ladder
70	Sam's Indirect Finish to Bending Chimney	VS 5a **	134	18m		Trewavas
71	Africa Route	VS 5a **	1154	18m		Sennen
72	Cress Cendo	VS 5a **	208	32m	• 2	St. Loy Cliff
73	Axis	VS 5a **	506	18m		Carn Barra
74	Anvil Chorus	VS 4c ***	1942	54m	• 5	Bosigran
75	South Face Direct	VS 4c ***	1421	59m	• 4	Chair Ladder
76	Carrivick	VS 5a *	185	14m		Trewavas
77	Super Crack	VS 4c *	99	43m	• 2	Carn Barra
78	Hayloft	VS 4c *	560	41m	• 4	Sennen
79	Dexter	VS 5a **	571	17m		Sennen
80	Diocese	VS 5a ***	986	56m	• 4	Chair Ladder
81	Slippery Slab	VS 5a **	258	27m		Sennen
	LOW END HVS
82	Weasle	VS 4c **	76	18m		Carn Barra
83	Ochre Slab Route I	HVS 5a **	915	32m	• 2	Bosigran
84	Shorty's Folly	HVS 4c ***	402	14m		Roche Rock
85	Rosebud in June	HVS 5a **	366	27m		Zennor Cliff
86	Mule	HVS 5a *	66	15m		Pen Olver
	MID GRADE HVS
87	Colomen	HVS 4c *	236	21m		Trewavas
88	Williams' Chimney	HVS 5b **	536	20m		Trewavas
89	Saxon	HVS 5a ***	978	50m		Kenidjack Cliffs
90	The Lord Falmouth	E1 5b **	837	15m		Roche Rock
		1 e, 167 stars	83,165	2,720m	163