Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Rockfax Description
The wall and short thin crack to the right of Bodger Bob give an equally good pitch to its fine trad neighbour. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Bolted direct version of SGT, starting between Bogger Bob and SGT's original start. Possibly retro-bolts the start of Hong Kong Garden.
27/8/18 - the nut on the top bolt is loose.
Gordon Jenkin 15/May/2011.
Ticklists
CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , Road to f7c - Wye Valley , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , High in the grade near Bristol
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| steviechunder | 14 Jan |
Show βeta
βeta: The top finishing block covered in chalk is loose. Be warned | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The top finishing block covered in chalk is loose. Be warned |
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| Kiddie68 | 26 Nov, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: All bolts in good condition. Echo what previous climber says....lower-offs seem way out left from final holds on block at top of crack. Seemed desperate and unnecessary to "climb' to them using the one tiny super polished foothold. Just clip and swing! Guessing third lower-off bolt is to combine this lower-off with Bodger Bob crack on the left. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: All bolts in good condition. Echo what previous climber says....lower-offs seem way out left from final holds on block at top of crack. Seemed desperate and unnecessary to "climb' to them using the one tiny super polished foothold. Just clip and swing! Guessing third lower-off bolt is to combine this lower-off with Bodger Bob crack on the left. |
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| Tall Oak | 25 Nov, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lord knows how you finish out way left of the bolts with that shitty polished and tiny ledge. Guessing the third anchor was made for short people and those, like me, who would not commit to that shitty and polished ledge. Who knows? | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Lord knows how you finish out way left of the bolts with that shitty polished and tiny ledge. Guessing the third anchor was made for short people and those, like me, who would not commit to that shitty and polished ledge. Who knows? |
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| PaulTclimbing | 13 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Improvised set up. Forgot me bits. Made clipping ‘in extremis’ v hard work. Nuts seem ok. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Improvised set up. Forgot me bits. Made clipping ‘in extremis’ v hard work. Nuts seem ok. |
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| Johnlenham | 30 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Had a nut fall on us after one lead/clean of the rope. Climbing partner got a ratchet from the car and I re-lead it with it on my harness. It came from the top middle anchor bolt so put it on, tightened it up and then tightened every bolt on the route for good measure. Should be solid now ???? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Had a nut fall on us after one lead/clean of the rope. Climbing partner got a ratchet from the car and I re-lead it with it on my harness. It came from the top middle anchor bolt so put it on, tightened it up and then tightened every bolt on the route for good measure. Should be solid now ???? |
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| Samuele Mattiuzzo | 20 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The final bolt before the chains is loose, tightened it back a bit but won't suffice | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The final bolt before the chains is loose, tightened it back a bit but won't suffice |
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| Samuele Mattiuzzo | 20 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Just the final move gave me issues, can't reach. Finally got it ground up clean! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Just the final move gave me issues, can't reach. Finally got it ground up clean! |
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