Rockfax Description
24m. Climb the awkward diagonal crack to the huge block tucked under the roof, then hand-traverse this and continue round the arete to a rest. Climb up then back leftwards to access the front face and finish easily. Devious and high in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Graham West 1960

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties.

kieraneason 28/Aug Lead O/S

Mullered the gear placements. Needed to bodge my way out of it. Nice climb not v hard, big jugs

Hidden 14/Jul 2nd
Chris Murray 03/Jun 2nd
DanChad 03/Jun Lead O/S
mrphilipoldham 24/May 2nd O/S
Paul Hy 24/May Lead O/S

Been after this tick for a while. :D thought

with Phil O
Hidden 14/May Lead O/S
Mark Loveday 11/May Lead dnf

Left my head at home. Got it all wrong and retreated knackered. Poor show.

with andrew
Dan Vaj 29/Apr Lead O/S

What a rope faff

with Khalid
themattyshep 29/Apr Lead O/S
with admcne
admcne 29/Apr 2nd O/S
khalidq 29/Apr 2nd O/S
Tim Ford 08/Apr Lead O/S
with callum ray, Naomi
Hidden 26/Mar Lead dog
birks3746 26/Mar 2nd

Bit sandbaggy

with Alice Browne
rtdennison 25/Mar Lead

Scared me a lot moving around the block, need to re-do with the alternative finish

with Pete, Alex H
Alex Hyde 25/Mar 2nd
with Sam
WillRhodes ??/2017 Lead O/S
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 10/Nov/16 TR
KatOstrich 09/Oct/16 2nd dnf

We didn't like the seemingly not well protected traverse

with Camilla
Hidden 17/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Noah Near-Theholds 06/Aug/16 Lead
buxtoncoffeelover 30/Jul/16 Lead

Awkward mossy/damp crack (good gear); enjoyable hanging hand traverse to wedged rest & more good gear; more exciting traversing on smallish footholds & hand jams then rounded break. Vegetated gully was disappointing before interesting move back around arete onto face & more gear. Easy amble up slab to finish. An entertaining route that wasn't as hard as I had imagined

Hidden 30/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Peter Metcalfe 08/May/16 Lead
KeenClimber 13/Apr/16 Lead
with Jim
jimxxx 13/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
strudles 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with jun
rosiehawker 11/Oct/15 Lead dog
with Ross Garfoot
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
quickdrawmcraw 13/Sep/15 Lead
TonyF 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Chris Wilson, Martin Lancaster
Flavio 06/Jun/15 Solo O/S
tedswag 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Green... The initial crack was slimy resulting in some serious pump. Wedged myself in the body crack after the block to shake out, leading to comic gear placement, tangled ropes, huge drag (even on doubles) and a grass hauling gully scramble.

callumbtaylor 04/May/15 2nd
jjsk8a ?/May/15 Lead O/S

Wanted to do the direct finish but struggled to get a high piece in the crack and pumped myself out so settled for this Terrible ground and drag even with doubles when you get round the corner, direct is def the way to go

with Ad Shaw
Ad Shaw ?/May/15 2nd
with jjsk8a
Matt_C9716 14/Apr/15 2nd

Direct finish

with Neil
Mike W ??/2015 Lead
JCresswell ??/2015 2nd
Hidden 03/Nov/14 2nd O/S
petrch 01/Nov/14 Lead dnf

To come back to!

with Maarten Youngman
Francis Hardy 28/Sep/14 Lead

Got pumped and fell off the direct finish and so finished up West's Wallaby. Was very green and seemed rarely climbed.

with Georgia
BareBears 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Tough. Got to the block and got the sling around... managed to jam my body between the block and the wall for a much needed rest and composure.

with Joe Cresswell, Dale
Rob Royle 15/Jul/14 Lead dog

What a bas***d of a route! Seriously struggled with this climb, really awkward, proper pumped, sh*t myself......! Only completed it with some fantastic belaying from Gav!!!

with Ruth, Gav
gavster 15/Jul/14 2nd
with rob
poigol5043 28/Jun/14 Lead
Pike 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S

One to come back and lead.

with Davey Mac
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead
GOS 17/May/14 Lead O/S

physical; strenuous traverse; rope drag became an issue

with 5eamuz
5eamuz 17/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd β
jimxxx ??/2014 -
Rob Gillespie ??/2014 Lead O/S
Jeester 01/Dec/13 2nd dog
with Tom Wilding-Steele, Oliver Ross
OliverRoss 01/Dec/13 Lead dog

Had an epic. Took the first block underneath, reasted on gear, then jammed to reach up to the top of the block. Nice move but definitely harder, and meant Tom couldn't do it, and Alistair went the correct way on second attempt, meaning he couldn't remove gear and had to be lowered afterwards.

with Tom Wilding-Steele, Alistair Dean
twildingsteele ?/Nov/13 2nd dnf
Russ 30/Sep/13 Lead O/S

airy traverse, unfortunately quite green the 2nd halve of the route

with Dave Saxby
Dale ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

my favourite route of the day. good fun monkey swinging

with dave
Mike Turner 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Jeremy Hall
knighty 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Scary, but satisfied at the end! Great climbing, hard for the grade. Should have used half ropes ***ROPE DRAG***

SuperLee1985 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Scary Shit! Take the oportunity to rest with a body jam in the crack of the jammed block, what looks like an nice ledge and a gentle traverse isn't! Very lite for feet and a mostly slopery ledge for hands gets you pumped very quickly (and leaves you with brown trousers), you will be very greatful for the rest at the end od the traverse.

with knighty
Hidden 07/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd β
simeclimb68 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt
j.townley 07/Jun/13 2nd
with Stops!
Stopsy 07/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Townley
theandthem 27/May/13 Lead dnf


with Sally
MichaelGallimore 27/May/13 Lead O/S

Nice exposed traverse. Superb first section but slightly let down by the gully finish. Wish i had done the direct finish.

with MikeR
froglette 27/May/13 2nd dog
with Richard Spencer, John Proudfoot
MichaelGallimore 27/May/13 Lead O/S

Nice exposed traverse. Superb first section but slightly let down by the gully finish. Wish i had done the direct finish.

with MikeR
Hidden 27/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead β
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Dawn_K_B 20/Apr/13 2nd
sopaz 07/Apr/13 Lead
with Mackie
Kyrros 03/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Fall on the traverce part on the second nut protection

rich_hw 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
JamesWilliams 09/Oct/12 Lead dog

not nice at all, didnt have the strength left for the direct finish

Phil Layton 06/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Fell off after third attempt to climb across below the boulder (not the way to do it!). Climbed up left round the boulder on one attempt and was in position to hand traverse but didn't feel like I'd got the hand strength left after battling up the awkward crack. If I'd read the description given above I'd have rested and then traversed. Next time....

with Phil Laxton
manosand 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
pebbles 12/Jul/12 Lead O/S

bottled out of the direct!

with guido
althesin 19/Jun/12 Lead

clipped some pre placed gear

with Reds
Reds 19/Jun/12 2nd RP
Reds 19/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Double Knee Bar 29/May/12 Lead rpt
with Iain
DanOsb 27/May/12 Lead O/S

hard for a vs, awesome knee bar rest under the block after the block traverse, then onto another exiting traverse with some good jams in the break to get come protection in. enjoyed the struggle.

MaccMark 20/May/12 2nd
with Philip Jarvis
saffy 06/May/12 Lead O/S
ranga 06/May/12 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead
Reds 06/Apr/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/Mar/12 2nd dnf
Shortarse.Crowley ?/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Justin Critchlow
Hidden ??/2012 -
JamesP ??/2012 -
Hidden 20/Nov/11 2nd O/S
minirollsrule 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S

did not complete, top section was too wet for my liking, escaped up the gully

Morris123 05/Nov/11 -
treg 01/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Couldn't commit to the hand traverse. Thankfully, neither could Bird, so we backed off. First VS to scupper me in a while.

with Bird
Hidden 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
sgl0jd 17/Aug/11 -
lizzie789 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S
marcduhig 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
sputnik 02/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
Andrew Bangs 08/May/11 Lead dnf

Bit off more than I could chew. Only got a little way up and didn't like it. Down-climbed and took gear back out.

iwebster59017 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Tom Kirby
mcglenr25 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Very hard for the grade and exceptionally pumpy, body tension is a must!

mksmith35 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
kermit_uk 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
gingerwolf 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Glenn
Hidden 21/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Jan/11 2nd
Hidden 29/Jan/11 Lead dnf
rwm7131 29/Jan/11 Lead
with James Ayres & Dan Parker
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
HowieB ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
Meacher ??/2011 Lead O/S
wave1art 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Adrian Botting
Hidden 02/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead β
danJBA 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Laura-lou 22/Aug/10 2nd
with James - Turnaround, Claire Sheehan
Harri777 09/Aug/10 2nd dnf
with jt
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Jimbo79 11/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Seconded, direct finish

matt.jj 06/Jun/10 Lead

Good route, very pumpy, and eats big cams! I lead this tired so it was a tough climb but enjoyed it. Wanted to to the HVS direct option but no strength. Dave did it as a second and loved it (the HVS). Rope drag can be avoided with care and twin ropes.

Dave Mahon ?/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 28/May/10 2nd O/S
neil0968 23/May/10 Lead
FrankW 16/May/10 Lead O/S
with MMC Various
Allan Watson 11/Apr/10 2nd
marclloyd77 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
therat ??/2010 Lead RP
GF ??/2010 -
Hidden 08/Oct/09 Lead O/S
benny_m 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Andrew Abraham ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Neil D 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Epic rope drag. Abbed to retrieve gear - further epic.

Hidden 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
tedburt 03/May/09 Lead dog
Elsier 02/May/09 Lead dog
with Ian, Stuart
MattT88 14/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Confidence dented after Wombat

with Andy Knight
Oceanic 12/Apr/09 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
koopa ??/2009 -
tjmillen ??/2009 Lead O/S
with simon hall
Hidden 26/Jul/08 2nd dnf
JWB 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Chloe
Benrj ?/Jun/08 Lead

lots of rope drag! twins would have been miles better!

with john kearns
Karlos 29/May/08 Lead O/S

Exciting hand traverse on initial big block, followed by a lower body wedge to rest. The horizontal crack that follows needs big gear, and ballsy move to regain face after the gully. Nice!

with Daniela, Ben
Goose4 ??/2008 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
georgeevans88 03/Nov/07 Lead
with Pete
Hidden 03/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Will Jung ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Fiona Boothby
shoulders 08/Sep/07 Lead
riddle ?/Sep/07 2nd

2nd upto the block then up the direct variation

with Mike UKC
Hidden 25/Aug/07 Lead dog
Stig 29/May/07 Lead rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
davek 21/Apr/07 Lead dog

One fall / rest from being pumped and flapping about it. Hindsight tells me I could have done it.

with Jim
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Rob Laird 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead
John Lisle ??/2006 -
donkster ??/2006 Lead O/S
with mudders
mr random ??/2006 2nd O/S
maybe_si ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
deanroberts 17/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/05 Lead
JPGR ?/Aug/05 2nd
with Justin Adams
mark s ??/2005 -
DavidR 01/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with Matt Smith
Will Gordon ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Phil Nelson, Rob Gleeson
cpoad 24/Jul/04 Lead O/S

Fell off at the hand traverse, but started from the ground again cleanly

with James S, Darryl C
Stig 06/Jul/04 2nd O/S
with Jonathan Teale
jimshrimp 13/May/04 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Rich Siddle
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Chris Murray ?/Jul/03 Lead
with Richard Bower
Hidden 05/Apr/03 TR O/S
akhughes ?/Sep/02 Lead
cjphillips ?/Aug/02 TR
Hidden 13/Apr/02 -
adam carless ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Pete?
platt2000 ??/2002 -
Gus ??/2002 Lead
Bullybones ??/2001 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
antroy 15/May/99 2nd
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 03/May/99 Lead
with Liz
Tarquin ??/1999 -
orb ?/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with ?
kato'sdad 26/Apr/98 Lead
RobSimmo 26/Apr/98 2nd O/S
with Steve Goodens, Jon Berry
cem ?/Mar/98 2nd
Hidden 12/Oct/97 Solo
chris sm ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Jon Stevens
smudge 26/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with Simon
roncaves 02/Jun/96 Lead
with Mike Entwhistle
Phil West ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Steve Wild & jimmy Turner
colin milton 13/May/95 Lead
with eric milton
A Crook 22/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with Pat Boothman
brady ??/1995 2nd

awkward traverse

with John Cameron
tompercy ??/1994 -
Rog Wilko ?/May/93 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
conradallen 05/Jul/92 2nd
RichardMc 09/May/92 Lead
nai ??/1992 Solo
dodders 11/May/90 Lead
with Dick Hargreaves
Roget 03/May/90 Solo O/S
kato'sdad ?/May/90 Lead
with Jerry Mattinson
Raggar 02/Apr/90 Lead
teespaddler ?/Apr/90 -
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
Hidden ?/Jun/88 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/83 AltLd O/S
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Lead
rogerskews ??/1976 -
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 35
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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