Rockfax Description
14m. Mild but bold. Bridge up the gully then hand-traverse out left (very hard for the short) to gain the front face which is climbed leftwards to a finish up the delicate slabby groove (poorly-protected) then the arete on the right. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Roaches w sobote? :).

apana790 02/Sep/17 2nd
rtdennison 24/Aug/17 Solo

The traverse was very interesting, wouldn't know how to lead it without causing mental rope-drag or leaving it unprotected!

Hidden 29/Jul/17 2nd
Charlie Zephyr Booth 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S
John Holden 14/Jul/17 Lead
with Steve Bulman, Dan Bulman
PeteNichols 12/Jul/17 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 09/Jun/17 2nd
with Ionut Procop
Anouk Spelt 28/May/17 Lead
with Luke
tom the cat 21/May/17 2nd
bhh23 19/May/17 2nd
KeenClimber 19/May/17 Lead O/S
with Beth
themattyshep 14/May/17 Lead rpt
admcne 09/May/17 2nd O/S
themattyshep 09/May/17 Lead rpt
Rob_Morris1996 03/May/17 2nd O/S
themattyshep 03/May/17 Lead O/S
with Rob M
alanblyth 03/May/17 2nd O/S
timreynolds 01/May/17 2nd O/S
EllieWoods 01/May/17 Solo rpt
BradDodd 29/Apr/17 Lead
petecallaghan 29/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/17 Lead
Matt Harmon 26/Mar/17 Solo O/S
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
Jake397 27/Dec/16 Lead
with doug richardson
alxonrocks 26/Nov/16 Lead

bold start, enjoyable route

Jan Hofheiz 15/Oct/16 Lead
with Dave
Hidden 14/Sep/16 Solo
neil.loydon 04/Sep/16 2nd O/S

We crab crawled above what might have been the hand traverse, which looked we'll hard and green

ajspray 06/Aug/16 2nd
with Strat
stratandrew 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Tom Ferneyhough, Amy Spray
jack 9895 25/Jul/16 Solo rpt
rob.swifty 13/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Traversed left higher than shown in the book

Gridsmad1 04/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Mark Loveday 07/Jun/16 2nd O/S
gpcomps 07/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Love the transition from the hand traverse onto the face

with Mark L
tobydunford 05/Jun/16 Solo O/S
Duncan Zerafa 14/May/16 2nd O/S
with Dave Wylie
Ianhulme ?/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/16 Lead
Darron ??/2016 -
TomOliver 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
matt.stevenson 26/Sep/15 Lead
Amy Sears 26/Sep/15 2nd
arose 19/Sep/15 Solo
Chownsy 23/Aug/15 Solo O/S
Tina Wilkinson 09/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Unexpected turn. Interesting.

with Bill (CMC)
Rob Gillespie 20/Jul/15 Lead O/S
kleinej 19/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Katy B
chrismoo 19/Jul/15 Lead
with Alaric
Hidden 19/Jul/15 2nd O/S
landy813 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Flavio 06/Jun/15 Solo O/S
DanChad 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Paul came up The Valve.

with Paul Deane, Chris Murray
Chris Murray 06/Jun/15 2nd

Dan led. Fairly easy, and he found plenty of gear.

Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead
MusicalMountaineer 05/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Nice position after traverse. Not much gear, not really needed!

alaster tonge 02/May/15 Solo O/S
Andy Morley 25/Apr/15 2nd O/S
olliehales 25/Apr/15 2nd
shell145 15/Apr/15 TR
with Ursula
Hardcore Pat 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
JRJones 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Oban, Libby
Mike W ??/2015 Lead
James-m-h ??/2015 Lead O/S
philhc ??/2015 -
s1362083 30/Nov/14 Lead

Accidentally missed the slabby bit, so probably a bit easier

Peter Metcalfe 25/Oct/14 Solo
Danbow73 20/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Rich
Chownsy 20/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Bow
BALD EAGLE 12/Oct/14 2nd
with Dave Smith
Andrew Abraham 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Paul Sherman, Ceara
BigHairyIan 11/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Richard Taylor, Katy Stranack
rickstaylor 11/Aug/14 Lead
with Ian
rohai545 03/Aug/14 Lead
with Helen
ht543 03/Aug/14 2nd
with Krish
mky77 26/Jul/14 2nd
buxtoncoffeelover 01/Jul/14 Solo
beeney 17/May/14 2nd
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd O/S
Psych ?/May/14 Lead O/S
samej 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Alex_Derbyshire 20/Mar/14 Lead
Markheighton 20/Mar/14 2nd
Paul Hy 19/Mar/14 Lead rpt
jack 9895 10/Mar/14 Lead O/S
natmat 08/Mar/14 2nd
with Colin
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
rawz 12/Nov/13 TR O/S
RUDIN.J.D.H 11/Aug/13 Solo O/S
JEP 06/Aug/13 Solo rpt
Paul Hy 17/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Dave E
Hidden 16/Jul/13 Solo O/S
ClaireD 16/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Paul Hy 16/Jul/13 Lead rpt
RichardLeggett 14/Jul/13 Lead

Watch for rope snag... use more extended runners.

JDSwain 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead
ruthonbike 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rowan Shaw
jjclarke70 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead
paul_j_burgess 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Bold start

with Linda Wales
MoWalker3 26/May/13 -
with Jaqi
Hidden 30/Apr/13 -
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd O/S
mevanssmith 21/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Made a complete hash of this one, went too far up mauds garden, and didn't fancy crawling along the gap. Must go back and do the actual route.

kez1 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with rob rendle, james davies
lizzie789 ?/Apr/13 2nd O/S
RagingPuffin ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Ralphus 23/Feb/13 Lead O/S
tommylongfellow 17/Feb/13 2nd
mountainpunk 17/Feb/13 Lead
with Tommy
Hidden 17/Feb/13 2nd dnf
fuzzysheep01 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Andre and Jamie (OUMC)
MJS ??/2013 -
Montecore 04/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with Ben Simpkins
Bradbury 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Greg Slee
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead
daviesp2 04/Sep/12 Lead
Jonny M 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/12 2nd O/S
cpoad 05/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with John S
Mike Turner 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Joshua Turner
Hidden 14/Jul/12 2nd
Matt_C9716 26/May/12 Lead
TM_Horton 25/May/12 Lead
Double Knee Bar 22/May/12 Solo rpt
DerwentDiluted 12/May/12 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
cathymiller 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with jo marshall
Hidden 14/Apr/12 TR
Double Knee Bar 01/Apr/12 Solo rpt
Luuuuuke 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Jo
jonny357 27/Mar/12 Lead
with Dominic Reynolds
davegardner 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
fechtn 25/Mar/12 2nd

Climbed twice, very fun start section

with Fran
timmyhobby 25/Mar/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 -
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead
byatt2002 24/Mar/12 Lead
fechtn 24/Mar/12 2nd
with Byatt
jmcshopes 24/Mar/12 2nd
franhammond92 24/Mar/12 Lead
jonny357 09/Mar/12 Lead
with Ben
aharbey 09/Mar/12 Lead
studly84 ??/2012 Lead O/S
with thomas poulton
Sam Melville ??/2012 -
khalidq 16/Nov/11 2nd O/S

Did it with a head torch! Foul wind at top so coiled the rope quicker than ever.

Blisco 16/Nov/11 Lead rpt
Alex Wade 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Henry Brown 06/Nov/11 2nd
Alex Cole 05/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Henry Brown, Alex Wade
ryansb90 29/Oct/11 2nd O/S
cragant 15/Oct/11 2nd
swoollock 15/Oct/11 Lead
Fiskavaig 01/Oct/11 Lead

Awkward start, till you find the trick.

with Jason J
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead
marcoleptic 27/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
terri mc 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
evel 22/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Terri
CChafer 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/11 2nd
Paul Hy 27/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Mike R, Ian
DaNo123 16/Jul/11 Lead
with Hannah
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
ayuplass 30/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with cath
Kamikaze Badger 28/Jun/11 Lead

For those of us vertically challenged folks (I’m 5’ 8”) getting some pro in early is the crux. Nut ok in the vertical crack, its just reaching far enough over to get a nut (or small cam?) into the horizontal crack. And yes that rather polished looking large foothold is a polished as it look. Saying that still a worthwhile climb.

with Phil Newing
kat-lyle 26/Jun/11 2nd
with fred
Fred_Richard 26/Jun/11 Lead

was horribly wet and slimmy! not a very nice warm up

with Kat
ipblake 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Awkward in places though not difficult. Nice belay position at top. Good warm up Repeat 15 Oct 11 on SPA course/second - saving damsel in distress from the first move!

with Jim
JimboWizbo 11/Jun/11 2nd β

Fun crawling under the slab. Severe? I wouldn't say so, maybe we found an easy way up

with Ian
Paul Hy 19/May/11 2nd O/S

Mike (lead) and Ian

with Mick C, Ian
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead O/S
Dave Mason 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Darren Belfield
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead
jaggett 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
paulerussell 08/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Jason lead

with Tom Jones, Jason
tsjx 08/Apr/11 2nd

Jason lead

dillsupertramp 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

fun climb, excellent hand traverse for v diff, a bit short on protection

with Daniel Pitt
becoming-stranger 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
groliver26 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

with emily and olly

with Emily Cropton
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead
Emily Cropton 19/Mar/11 2nd
Ollie B 19/Mar/11 Solo O/S
szelest 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
shafiq lalloo 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with szelest
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead RP
njlyons 02/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with martin l
PAJames ??/2011 -
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
dpitt83 ??/2011 Lead O/S
with neil clapham
adam carless 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

bit of a scrambling start, but fun once the slab starts.

with John Lewis
marshy_88 13/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with daneil rylett
Matt10 02/Oct/10 2nd
with ldadams
Blackgoby 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tracey
reubensampson 30/Aug/10 2nd
with Antony Grayson
mmalbon 30/Aug/10 Lead

Nice clean lead, tricky start for a VDiff.

with James, Simon
Jacqui Parker 08/Aug/10 Lead
with Stu Burbidge
climbing_wiggy 24/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Leon
Lenny 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Paul
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Shane-Smith 21/Jun/10 2nd
with Tiff
Hidden ?/Jun/10 2nd β
Chris the Tall 23/May/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/May/10 Solo
FrankW 16/May/10 Lead O/S
with MMC Various
Shorty83 24/Apr/10 2nd
with Giles
gilbert 24/Apr/10 2nd

great start - keep bridging up until you can reach a positive hold

with Andy Holder
gingergeorge 24/Apr/10 Lead
with 15oth trg
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Neil Metcalfe101 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Phil 'the Duke'
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead
Barry D 10/Apr/10 Lead
with Trish
Double Knee Bar 05/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Struggled at the start. Not a VDiff for sure.

with Nathan
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
Laura-lou 15/Mar/10 Lead

Got a little lost and took the ledge under the overhang...looking for the horizontal break in the left hand wall and could only find diagonal ones (perhaps it was my poor perception!) The slab felt bold but wasn't really

with Paul Shepherd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
GF ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
12bennevis34 29/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Jack Loftus 26/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 26/Oct/09 Lead O/S
JEP 04/Oct/09 Solo
Barry D 04/Oct/09 Lead
with Chris M
benny_m 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/09 Lead O/S
dean79 13/Sep/09 2nd
with steve
ayuplass 12/Sep/09 Lead
with miles and cath
wilkie14c 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Clarke
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Max2559 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Not Bold at all. Gear is fine all the way up I thought. Need a bit of hand and arm strength for the start, but a quick move left brings big jugs again and the arete. Easy from then on. A BOLD climb of similar difficulty is Slab and Arete (skyline).

with Emily Burden
frume 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dan Bluck
Graeme Hammond 31/May/09 Solo O/S
Jake Howard 31/May/09 2nd O/S
with Mark Stitson
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead
Rampikino 24/May/09 Lead
with Cat
PaulGreenhead 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Kirsty
Kirsty 02/May/09 2nd
EAYL 24/Apr/09 Lead
with Mat J
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
ianslade 20/Mar/09 TR RP

A very bold climb once the first move was cracked around the lower face it was fine

with Dave
erica 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with John
John Brayshaw 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Erica
keith leonard ??/2009 -
koopa ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 27/Dec/08 2nd O/S
donkster 27/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with dennis
danleyden 01/Nov/08 2nd O/S
with Robin Van den Hende
2RoyalAnglian 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S

great bold start to this route! once established on the hand traverse the moves flow nicely!

with john
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
mmalbon 31/Aug/08 Lead

The first move was much more intimidating when leading than seconding, but I did manage to get 2 good pieces of gear in before comitting. I can't believe this is down as a VDiff in my book (On Peak Rock)!

with Mick and Simon
pldarch 12/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Edwin
jimshrimp 12/Aug/08 2nd
mmalbon 03/Aug/08 2nd

Tried to lead this as it was a VDiff but couldn't even find the start! I missed it completely and went up to the large overhang above then crawled left, which missed out the first part of the climb! After which,I retreated to suss where to start properly. Eventually we found it, Mick lead it and it's a really good climb with an excellent first move which is a little bold.

with Mick and Simon
hugh2002 14/Jul/08 2nd

A grungy first half and a wonderful arete to finish.

with Gem
Colin Matheson 13/Jul/08 2nd

This is a Diff in my original guidebook (Paul Nunn). Eee - they were 'ard them days

with Reg
Hidden 09/Jun/08 2nd
jcurley 07/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Chris Drinkwater
James Oswald ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S


Karlos 29/May/08 Lead O/S

Easy really.

with Daniela
Hidden 24/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/08 2nd
simonfife 13/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with ali
goi.ashmore 09/Mar/08 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
daza 12/Jan/08 2nd
with Alex
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
carl_coop ??/2008 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
MikeDowsett ??/2008 Lead
with Kris Scheinkonig
gingergeorge ??/2008 Lead
timjones 10/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Wet, windy and great fun ;)

Blisco 07/Oct/07 Lead β
with Paul Crafter
Stav ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Interesting first moves - second had to leave 1st bit of gear behind! Simple climb - Diff in my guide, don't think I went wrong way.

Will Jung ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Joe Robinson
ungracefulathlete 04/Sep/07 Lead O/S

I think i did this wrong. I went up the face of maud's garden then crawled along under the roof. 'Poorly protected' is not the word for the last half of the climb which has no protection. Felt very proud i did.

with Jonathan
pepperpot 04/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/07 Solo O/S
mick1jones 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Rod Deaves
Hidden 09/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 19/May/07 Lead O/S
pottsworth ?/May/07 Lead

Think I went too high, and ended up crawling under a roof. Placed a runner too early giving really bad rope drag. I managed to get at least 2 decent nuts (top one was 100% bomber) on the final slab, not sure why other's struggled to find gear

with Kat
Hidden 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Tom Hopkinson 28/Mar/07 2nd O/S

Little gear placed, especially within the first 5- 10m of climb

with Stuart Honick
reg_measures 03/Mar/07 Solo O/S
2RoyalAnglian ??/2007 Lead O/S
with mark ansty
LP ??/2007 -
leakster 14/Oct/06 2nd
with laurie
EAYL 19/Sep/06 2nd
with Peak
Hidden 06/Aug/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/06 2nd
mick1jones 30/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Rod Deaves
Hidden 16/Jun/06 2nd
tontopink 10/May/06 Lead O/S
Howard J 09/May/06 Lead rpt
with John Mcfadzean
djking1983 06/May/06 Lead
Hidden 06/May/06 2nd
dan gibson ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Caralynh 29/Oct/05 Lead
with Iain Simpson
Jeremy Wilton 16/Oct/05 Lead
with Kate Wilton
jimjimmyjimjim 25/Sep/05 Lead O/S
edmitchell ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with kai ren
Allan Young 03/Jul/05 2nd β
with Paul Cubbins
The Bad Cough 03/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/05 2nd
KeithW 15/May/05 Lead O/S
with Richard Broadhead
Howard J 19/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Dave Checkley
Jamie Brown ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Craig
Wayne S ??/2005 -
Si dH ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Harry Hollis
ASchwirtz 01/Jul/04 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/04 2nd
Chesh ??/2004 2nd
with Sparky
Hidden 19/Aug/03 Lead
motoole 14/Aug/03 2nd
Katie Weston ?/Jul/03 2nd
leonjones 21/Jun/03 2nd
with Steve Wales
John Eley ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Stig ?/May/03 2nd O/S
with Red Rope
Smelly Fox 06/Mar/03 Solo O/S
mark s ??/2003 Solo
Gus ??/2003 Solo
waldenmatt ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Tim Waterworth
Alastair Hudson 20/Apr/02 Solo
thetourist 25/Aug/01 Lead
Hidden 18/Aug/01 2nd
Stevie_R 10/Aug/01 2nd O/S
with rod
Andy Say 30/May/01 Solo
Russell Flynn 22/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/00 Lead O/S
spqr 30/Apr/00 2nd O/S
with Chesh
Hidden ?/Apr/00 Lead O/S
RobSimmo ??/2000 2nd
tlr ??/2000 Lead
kato'sdad ??/2000 Lead
alan moore ??/2000 -
Steve Pardoe 23/Oct/99 Lead O/S

Slimy bridge start, then easier, nice holds and more gear than expected from OPR With Ant Roy

with Youarsey / NWF Posse (uk.rec.climbing)
EllieWoods 14/Mar/99 Solo O/S
with Kath Rosedale
Martyn ??/1999 -
craig h 08/Oct/98 Solo O/S
with Jamie Lillieman
Hidden ?/Aug/98 Solo O/S
smudge 14/Jul/97 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/May/97 Lead
Hidden 04/Apr/97 Lead
Chris Murray ?/Jul/96 Lead
Hidden 12/May/96 2nd
EddieA 04/May/96 Solo O/S
BruceW ??/1996 Lead O/S
Ian Archer 02/Jul/95 Lead
with Lee Bott
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 06/Nov/93 Solo
Martin Bennett 14/Jun/93 Solo
roncaves 13/Jun/93 Solo
Nigel Coe ?/May/93 Solo
andrew300169 16/Apr/93 Solo
Fiskavaig ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 Solo
nai ??/1992 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Jul/91 Solo
stokienomad 13/Jun/91 Lead
Martyn ??/1991 Lead O/S
Roget 03/May/90 Solo O/S
Raggar 02/Apr/90 Lead
teespaddler ?/Apr/90 -
andrew300169 ??/1990 Solo
andy@ark ?/Oct/89 2nd
with Mate of Farley's
andy@ark ?/Oct/89 Lead
with Mate of Farley's
Iain Thow 21/Sep/85 Solo
Mark Kemball 13/Mar/84 Solo
Hidden ??/1984 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1982 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Solo
Nigel Bond 07/May/78 Solo
Chris Terrey ??/1978 Solo
babymoac ??/1977 Solo
rogerskews ??/1976 Solo
Rog Wilko ?/Jan/71 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
mikej 21/May/69 Lead
with Brian Hill
tapley 12/Jan/69 -
mikej 23/Jun/68 Lead
with Pat Souster
mikej 06/Mar/66 Lead
with Keith Fairburn
oldmanofmow ??/1955 TR
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High S
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Low VD
Votes cast 38
High 4b
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High 4a
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Votes cast 34
Votes cast 33
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