24m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic of considerable antiquity.
1) 18m. Climb the well-scratched chimney passing an overhang on the left (polished and awkward to protect) then continue rightwards past the holly to a good stance. The wide bit is avoidable to the right at a lower grade.
2) 6m. Move left then right to outflank the overhangs, or for something harder finish up the steep corner (VS 4c). © Rockfax

FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1913

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Roaches VDiff's.

ian d f 24/Sep Solo O/S
Lee0901 02/Sep -
John Geoffrey 20/Aug Lead dnf

Did first pitch but not second.

with Fiona
FDixon 20/Aug 2nd dnf

Skipped 2nd pitch, too green

geomickb 22/Jul Lead
Hidden 03/Jun 2nd
Lazer sk eh 25/May Lead O/S

Pitch 2

with mark
adam001 13/May 2nd

Partner attempted Jeffcoats buttress and used this as a retreat. Not a bad climb, not one if its wet though

Hidden 13/May Lead
AdventureMark 30/Apr 2nd O/S
Paul Hy 29/Apr Lead rpt
with Sammy
mattdennies 29/Apr 2nd O/S
with Ben
petecallaghan 29/Apr Lead O/S
The9inger 29/Apr Lead
Stotty_88 02/Apr 2nd O/S

with Dave
tedswag 02/Apr Lead O/S

A well placed number 2 nut proved well hard to remove after some semi solo retrieval. Must buy a nut key. Tried the VS finish but backed off.

smoreda 28/Mar Lead
with robcrowther
soph_klein 25/Mar 2nd β
CRead 25/Mar Solo O/S
James Oakes 25/Mar Lead O/S
Charlie Fraser 04/Feb Lead
TheCrackDestroyer ??/2017 Lead O/S
WillRhodes ??/2017 Lead O/S
emma1987 ??/2017 2nd
Finn Curry 20/Dec/16 Lead
with Liam White, Tom Williams
Andyjharper 26/Nov/16 Lead rpt
with Dave Brook
LukeWS 19/Nov/16 Lead O/S
benbers 29/Oct/16 -
with Rowan Nidd, Emlyn
ellawatkinson 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Part of MUMC freshers trip taking lots of freshers up with me

with Chris Bremner Stokes
Ross Philpot 08/Oct/16 Lead
with Dux
Stephen Halliday 08/Oct/16 Lead
with John Wilshaw
Keiran.A 24/Sep/16 Lead
with alice (slag), robbie mullins
Hidden 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
mmmhumous 14/Sep/16 Lead
with David
Hidden 14/Sep/16 Solo
sparkass 12/Sep/16 Solo O/S
steveliput 10/Sep/16 2nd O/S
schoogles 04/Sep/16 Lead β
neil.loydon 04/Sep/16 2nd dog

Comical is all I can say. Soaking wet. Drizzling throughout. Abseiled off and swapped leads. Finally 'defeated' by pulling on gear. Should have stayed in the tea shop until after lunch !

Ian Stirrups 08/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

With VS finish, Sue led main pitch

with Sue
jodikate 03/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Chris
Andrew Martin 30/Jul/16 Lead
with Lizzie
steady 30/Jul/16 2nd

Ali lead. He pulled up the rope then threw it back down through the tree so I had to solo the middle third. VS finish.

with Ali B
MusicalMountaineer 07/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Filthy. Sodden. Green. Crap!

Chubbs 07/Jul/16 AltLd
derekwwl 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S
kevinlee 11/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/16 2nd
Ianhulme ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Fellmonkey 29/May/16 Lead
with Philippa
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead O/S
benny_m 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Su
avmpsycho 14/May/16 2nd O/S
with Che
Raggar 07/May/16 2nd

nasty polish

with Jon B
Steve Clegg 19/Apr/16 2nd
with Jo
Andyjharper 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Damp, fun route

Dave Mason 01/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with Darren Belfield
BethTansley 28/Mar/16 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/16 2nd dog
markK6 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Simon
MarcyBoy87 14/Mar/16 Lead
Paul Hy 14/Mar/16 2nd rpt
with Marc P
RJLeish 11/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Stanners 11/Mar/16 Lead O/S
TJ Mather 28/Feb/16 Lead rpt
Darron ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 18/Oct/15 Lead
Stickle Tarn 17/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

P2, up the corner VS 4c.

Hidden 15/Oct/15 Solo O/S
steveg 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Margarida
Hidden 03/Oct/15 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/15 2nd
Ugly Kid Jo 19/Sep/15 2nd
with Jenny Coupland, Coups
DanChad 10/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led the first pitch.

Chris Murray 10/Sep/15 2nd

Always a pleasure!

mike fenwick ?/Sep/15 Solo
Hidden 15/Aug/15 2nd
Tina Wilkinson 09/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Brillient climb. 24m.

with Bill (CMC)
Felix la shat ?/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
MichaelGallimore 31/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Vs finish

with Jenny
DeanD 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Nick
Tom Amraoui 18/Jul/15 2nd
jeremyftaylor 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

First bit up the chimney felt steughtforward but I struggled to find gear and took a brief detour into a neighbouring routes where I could see some placements. Didn't do the top pitch

Fellmonkey 03/Jul/15 2nd

Finished on VS exit

with Andy Winter
Hidden 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
gobbledigook 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
benheinrich87 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Mike Turner 19/Jun/15 Lead O/S

With the harder finish

stevemace85 19/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
flannery 12/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Jack
Rotorslap 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Faffed a bit after placing first piece of gear. Lead both pitches

Andy Morley 11/Jun/15 2nd RP
Jamie Everitt 11/Jun/15 Solo O/S
mapperley samurai 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Top bit good at the grade.

with Andy Morley
John Eley 10/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Nomes 08/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Darren
darrenpp 07/Jun/15 Lead
with Naomi
FlavioL1989 28/May/15 Solo O/S
Chris Murray 19/May/15 2nd

Finished up the chimney variations. Good value for Vdiff, especially in the damp.

with Jay Ibrahim
Hidden 26/Apr/15 AltLd
Hidden 25/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Rob Royle 19/Apr/15 2nd
with Gav
gavster 19/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead
GStone 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Steve Gladstone
Jamie Light 18/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
tom bre 14/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Climbed this 20 years ago - forgot how good it is!

with andy
Paul Hy 09/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Laura
Angus Taylor 08/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Mark Duncan 08/Apr/15 -
MarcyBoy87 25/Mar/15 Lead
Andy Morley 21/Mar/15 Lead
with Bernard Lee
PhillS 19/Mar/15 Solo O/S
with Beaker
Hidden 15/Mar/15 AltLd
Gus ??/2015 Solo
adie84 ??/2015 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2015 -
James-m-h ??/2015 Lead O/S
JCresswell ??/2015 Lead
philhc ??/2015 -
Max 15 15/Nov/14 2nd O/S

Staffordshire Gritstone Cloudy Enjoyable climb, first multi pitch

with Phil. C
georgenvk 15/Nov/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S
GermanAlex 12/Oct/14 2nd
with Arno
ASkingle 03/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with James
Hidden 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd
Chownsy 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Chris1234H 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
pimonserry 13/Sep/14 2nd β
Clee 10/Sep/14 2nd
with Matt
Hidden 08/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
wjcdean 24/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

this route is dumb. stupid chimneys. down climbed from the step. i am ashamed

with Trevers
Trevers 24/Aug/14 Lead dnf
Neil Henson 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Jackie
Tomt1er 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
climbingisgreat 15/Jul/14 2nd

Put several runners in then dad lead the rest.

Hidden 10/Jul/14 2nd
nclarey ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
jazzyjeff 29/Jun/14 Lead


with Holly
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Solo O/S
08nbrierley 29/Jun/14 Solo O/S
with jamie
jumpingjimminy 13/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Andy L
stokienomad 15/May/14 Lead rpt
GermanAlex 03/May/14 Solo O/S

solid, good jams

Psych ?/May/14 Lead O/S
vixym 25/Apr/14 Lead O/S
BenedictIEP 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Leleanor93 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Awesome climb, glad I was flexible enough to avoid smearing though!

pjames87 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
td72 14/Apr/14 -
Rockafella 03/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Sam took the first and main pitch. Attempted the VS finish in the rain but not confident enough. Maybe next time it's dry!

Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
eastonator 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S
SuperLee1985 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Nice, route. Attempted to do it in one pitch, but the VS finish was quite tricky, bold and un-protected so wasn't comfortable without a spotter. Belayed dan up to the ledge and went from there, but not before Dan got a cam stuck just below the ledge. I had to ab off the ledge and retrieve it before we could continue (luckily i always have a prussic on my harness).

Hidden 09/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Alex_Derbyshire 03/Mar/14 Lead

Back to Lead outdoor after a wet winter.

lloydellis93 03/Mar/14 Lead
Markheighton 03/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Solo O/S
Purely 02/Jan/14 2nd O/S
with Mat Adams
Caitlin ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Tony Ormeroyde
guschuck 24/Nov/13 Lead β
1176gws 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Very fun climb good body jamming before coming out the crack and up onto the belay ledge, finished with the VS 4c variation

with Solo
Theeni 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Shakti 23/Nov/13 2nd O/S
ah2013 09/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Lucas, Tom
Jordanh031 01/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Rob Royle 29/Sep/13 Lead
with Dave Robins
MYox 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led that stupid wall at the end.

with Maia
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jason smeeth 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Jenks82
david100 14/Sep/13 2nd
Adelewhiteman 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
wiswilson 07/Sep/13 2nd
with Marc Colbeck
SteveJB 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Wayne Qualter
gavster 18/Aug/13 AltLd
with rob
Rob Royle 18/Aug/13 AltLd
with Steph, Gav
si_green99 02/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Greg Spicer
cellomonkey1 01/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Bit greasy. Steve lead 1st pitch, crux near bottom was challenging, Dan lead 2nd pitch, again still damp.

with Dan
Goodstuff 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
grace jones 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Paul Hy 13/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Grace J, Ian
JDSwain 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
ClaireD 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Paul Hy 10/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead
p3tersen 29/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 25/Jun/13 AltLd
FionaNicholson 15/Jun/13 Lead
GStone 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Nice climb. loads of gear.

gsavell 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah Knight
Chris Harding 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Climbed the slab nexts to the chimney and then moved up into the cave

with Danny
terri mc 06/Jun/13 2nd O/S

First pitch only

with Mel Brown
Chris Murray ?/Jun/13 Lead
with Dave Ackerley
SteveJ30 ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
jack 9895 13/Mar/13 Lead O/S
richardadventurecafe 01/Mar/13 2nd

Good fun climb.

with Si teasedale
Hidden 01/Mar/13 2nd
TJ Mather 27/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Robbie's first lead.

with Robbie Lander
Ralphus 23/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
tommylongfellow 17/Feb/13 AltLd
mountainpunk 17/Feb/13 AltLd
with Tommy
Hidden ??/2013 -
MJS ??/2013 -
gazzij ??/2013 -
baron84 24/Nov/12 2nd
with BramT
BTphonehome 24/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Baron
poeter210 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/12 2nd β
Hidden 03/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 2nd
Sam Maher 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with James Kent
tinyali 31/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

My little brother's first outdoor climb! I lead P1, seconded P2

with Mat Duncan, Scott Hill
scott.hill 31/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Mat Duncan, Alisa
Cornish boy 16/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Good route. Had some fun trying to get up the very last section, which I eventually managed on a tight top rope!

with Sean
andy_e 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
cpoad 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Very polished and traditional

with John S
jakethepeg 24/Jul/12 Lead
laura wilson 21/Jul/12 TR
with colin mcmanus, matthewpwilson
matthewpwilson 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S

1st pitch only, 2nd looking uninspiring!

chrisdajenk 14/Jul/12 2nd O/S

nice route with tricky crux to finish

with Martin
Goose4 06/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Alex Haslehurst
Hidden 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Strachan 21/Jun/12 Lead O/S
deklan 20/Jun/12 Lead
with mario, jak
Hidden 19/Jun/12 2nd
steve-grigg 18/Jun/12 Solo O/S
imogen.fish 18/Jun/12 Solo O/S
Gary A S 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Clio
Clee 10/Jun/12 2nd
with Gary
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead
WillDoyle 28/May/12 Lead β
solfreak 27/May/12 -

Top rope self belay

mol 27/May/12 AltLd
with Caity
caity 27/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
ross brinson 20/May/12 Lead
with Hannah Watson
hannah watson 20/May/12 2nd
Steve J P 20/May/12 Lead

1st pitch only

with JD, BW
Bernie Wylde 20/May/12 2nd

sp led

with jd, sp
cjmorrow 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden 18/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/12 2nd β
iang74 16/Apr/12 Lead
PrincessAlbert 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Grassrob ?/Apr/12 Lead
byatt2002 24/Mar/12 Lead
jmcshopes 24/Mar/12 2nd

The VS exit is very, very green.

MTBAnimal 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Tough getting started on the last pitch.

Hidden 17/Mar/12 2nd
Jay C 03/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Jack lead the first pitch

with Jack N
Hidden 24/Feb/12 Lead O/S
thomaspomfrett 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Did the VS exit

scotty h 03/Feb/12 AltLd β

Started as variations but pretty much ended as the VD, meed to check where to go left of the rather encroaching holly bush.

with Matt Moore
Morris123 ?/Feb/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Sam Melville ??/2012 -
kez1 04/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with nick brooks
Hidden 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
David Shelmerdine 12/Nov/11 2nd
with Gavin Peach
tmelrose ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
sadsetts 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Ronny
chedder 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with luke watts
cragant 01/Oct/11 2nd
swoollock 01/Oct/11 2nd
marcoleptic 27/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead
Dan Geh 22/Sep/11 2nd O/S
tgeh 22/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with adam jordan, dan geh
Hidden 08/Sep/11 Lead
HairyMan 01/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 01/Sep/11 Lead
AMJ098 ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dan Geh
Petarghh 09/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Jimbo_28 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
mhawk 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Julie Hulme
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
liverpooldave 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
nathan2day 02/Jul/11 Lead
with Dominik Siedlecki
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead
Anta Misina ?/Jul/11 2nd
Duncan Beard ?/Jul/11 2nd

slippery at the grade

Bobling 04/Jun/11 AltLd

Slippy at the crux on the first pitch and that's saying something for someone whose home crag is Avon! Did the variations top pitch. Has a hold snapped? Felt harder than HS with a horrible landing for the first move!

with Dean, Rob H
Deano100 04/Jun/11 2nd
timatherton 28/May/11 Lead O/S
lewismansell 25/May/11 Lead O/S

Both pitches

Hidden 22/May/11 Lead O/S
Paul Hy 11/May/11 2nd O/S
with Phil B, Ian
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead
Kirsty810202 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S
iwebster59017 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead
bigroomboy 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S


with Jack
neillkelly 09/Apr/11 2nd
timothy1988 ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S

nice vs at top very polished

p_won ?/Apr/11 Lead
with johnny walker
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
dillsupertramp 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Daniel Pitt
dpitt83 27/Mar/11 2nd
with mike dillworth
Emily Cropton 20/Mar/11 2nd
jon_ridley 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Awesome moves just before belay.

Hidden 19/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead
groliver26 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

with geoff and jonny

ross brinson 18/Mar/11 Lead
Stuart Hurworth 09/Mar/11 2nd O/S

A few slightly awkward moves, makes you think about body position a lot for a VDiff! Good climb! Nice VS finish looks good too.

Hidden 09/Mar/11 Lead
Lunar25 08/Mar/11 Solo O/S
chrisbrown_023 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch

with Jamie Fowler
flashpanther ?/Mar/11 Lead
highfivekrissy ?/Mar/11 AltLd
with Andy Waring
fletch540 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead dnf
adam 24 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
andrewgarratt 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Kim
DOVEY 20/Oct/10 -
with Steve jones
Hidden 16/Oct/10 AltLd
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/10 2nd
Andyp89 ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Andy DJ 15/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
FrJ 08/Aug/10 AltLd

Led first pitch. Dogged second pitch on VS4c variant.

Hidden 31/Jul/10 2nd O/S
chubbyclimber 25/Jul/10 AltLd

2nd pitch - quite tough but enjoyable.

with Pete
Chris Dovey 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
parksy986 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with chris dovey
Hidden 18/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
JWB 18/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Jiggi
hapymike 10/Jul/10 Lead

altenative finish vs 4c

Hidden 08/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Peter Metcalfe 03/Jul/10 2nd
Gigga ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Becky E 26/Jun/10 Lead

1st pitch only. Wandered on to Jeffcoat's Buttress in search of holds and gear: I've clearly lost the art of climbing polished chimneys!

Hidden 26/Jun/10 2nd
ianslade 22/Jun/10 Lead β
with Dave
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
kiwi boy 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

crux half up first pitch on move out from chimmey. Nice stance for belay. loads of gear. Enough to hang a landrover on

with keith pascoe
mortifiedPenguin 06/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Jason Rogers
Jim Malo 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/10 Lead O/S
Pixie-Andy 22/May/10 AltLd
lucasp 22/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch which was most of the route. Ditch led second tricky pitch.

with ditch
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead
AmyLauren 15/May/10 TR
with David
Hidden 15/May/10 TR O/S
AmyLauren 15/May/10 TR
with David
augustus trout 14/May/10 2nd
with Dave BuxtonMC
Maddi O'Brien 03/May/10 AltLd dnf

Seconded, stopped after 1st of 2 pitches, as did lead climber.

sklarke 02/May/10 Lead O/S

Very tricky!!! mantling into fields and bracing a long way above the last bit of gear - nice big hex at top though :D

gingergeorge 24/Apr/10 Lead
with 15oth trg
barrylong 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Mark Wood
Slarti B 24/Apr/10 2nd
with Chris G
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Doug Hughes 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Paul
Heinrich 18/Apr/10 Sent O/S

Green in places, but a good finish over the slopers toppijg out left.

with Gaz
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Pat 350 09/Apr/10 2nd
with Tom T
josh_smith_90 08/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Shorty83 ?/Apr/10 2nd
with Giles
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
Laura-lou 15/Mar/10 Lead

Led first pitch then walked off as short on time

catemuir 06/Feb/10 2nd

Incredibly slimy, possibly this improves in summer? Certainly helps if you're tall on this one... had to do a lot of moves very differently to Rich as I couldn't reach half the holds he could!

with Richard Batstone
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
GF ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
DomWatson 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
rfdl100 26/Sep/09 2nd
Tak 13/Sep/09 Lead
Daymo 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Richard, Len Oakes
Hidden 12/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
jack89 31/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Slippy, but fun Lead on first pitch, didn't realise it was a two pitch climb so finished after first pitch...

with Nick
jumpingjimminy 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ellie
yellowjersey 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Blackgoby 22/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Trace led the first pitch, went a bit off route onto the HS to the right at one point, because she found that way easier? I led the short and difficult second pitch. Tried it from the right, then the middle (gear), then the left as the book suggested (bold first move but easier, as long as you are fairly tall). Trace fell when seconding.

with Tracey
Kaiser999 19/Aug/09 Lead
DannyK 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Christos
si_green99 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

I lead the first pitch to the top of the chimney and owen topped it out making a nice move on the slab at the top.

with Owen Raybould
Happy Wanderer 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Ken T
nathanroberts89 ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S
donkster 31/Jul/09 2nd rpt
with DaveNW
Hidden 18/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hexman 12/Jun/09 2nd
with Hannah
JaseSSDD 09/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Andy Eaton
aeaton69 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
jcurley 05/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Horace
hapymike 02/Jun/09 Lead
will randall ?/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with sarah
Graeme Hammond 30/May/09 Lead O/S
with Sarah New
reinschgm 24/May/09 2nd

Jess and Jacob

with Matt
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead
littlenick 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
jimorothy 24/Apr/09 Lead

Using Paul Nunn's 70s guide we thought a nice little dif to wind down. Ended up on the super-polished VS4c finish which seems to be missing a small flake even at that grade - found that variation harder than Via Dolarosa

with Rachel Crolla
Richard Gilbert 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Lovely. Went slightly off route at the top

with Helen
argylectu 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Hutson
littlenick 21/Feb/09 Lead rpt
littlenick 21/Feb/09 2nd dog

for some reason found this route more difficult to second than to lead. can be quite slippery.

Mr Wild ??/2009 Solo
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
Col Kingshott ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 31/Dec/08 Lead
Hidden 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 15/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with S.Diserens, V.Richardson
Hannah85 ?/Nov/08 2nd dog
superturbo 24/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Ben Griffiths 05/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Camilla
camilla 05/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/08 2nd
markblair 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Nice cave to belay from :-)

with Alison Dixon
MattT88 24/Aug/08 2nd
BeccaSnowden 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
springything 24/Aug/08 2nd dnf
Mr. K 24/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Found all the holds in and around the initial chimney very green and slimy. Backed off due to no gear placements. Probably pretty straightforward if the holds are dry.

Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
tomB 16/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Ross Pimlott
Hidden 10/Aug/08 Lead dnf
no_more_scotch_eggs 02/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Nobster ?/Aug/08 AltLd G/U
with Jon ???
adam06 30/Jul/08 Lead

last moves at the top made it worthwhile. almost fell near the start cuz the rope got caught!

with Hilary Theaker and dave carr
hils theaker 30/Jul/08 2nd
Ashapalan 30/Jul/08 2nd

Little scared due to sun going down. But a good route.

with ad and hillary
mmalbon 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Nice VDiff, although very green. A couple of slightly tricky moves in places, but overall not that hard.

with Simon
alexporter 19/Jul/08 Lead

Slippery mossy rock. Sun & cloud.

with Tom Robinson
Tom Robinson 19/Jul/08 2nd
with Alex Porter
Kamikaze Badger 15/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Phil Newing
cooper leek ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with donk
mark32 06/Apr/08 Lead O/S
tomboyle 04/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with sarah finney
Em66 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Mat
mikeryder 22/Feb/08 2nd
with big rob
dannyboy83 ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
daza 12/Jan/08 Lead
with Alex
bobboulderer ?/Jan/08 Lead dnf
with Rob Shoosmith
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
carl_coop ??/2008 2nd O/S
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
gingergeorge ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
dzlhodgson 03/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with Eddie Hung
Eddie Hung 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Hodgkinson, James Smith
Hidden 31/Oct/07 Solo rpt
the rec 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Jules
Hidden 29/Sep/07 Lead O/S
pebbles 29/Sep/07 Lead

did the VS finish

with deborah AND nicky
david the bear 08/Sep/07 -
with Steve
reubensampson 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Justyna Gemzala
The Bad Cough 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
staceyjg 04/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead
gb83 01/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

did the VS 4c finish straight up the corner, nice :-)

chriscopps 01/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/07 2nd
Jules 210681 28/Jul/07 Lead
Zoomer 28/Jul/07 2nd
Mike W 25/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Martin
Hidden 09/Jul/07 Solo O/S
Phil Jennings 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Matt Burdekin
Hidden 01/Jul/07 Lead O/S
jcurley 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Horace
mic_b 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with mrsbate
fruitcake72 02/Jun/07 2nd O/S
bobpilgrem 23/May/07 Lead O/S
with Bob/Nic
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd
Hidden 05/May/07 TR
Hidden 01/May/07 AltLd
Hidden 01/May/07 AltLd
dja 30/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with matt and jason
matt ling 30/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with dja and jason
chri55ie 06/Apr/07 AltLd

Led the last little bit

mike_hough_uk 06/Apr/07 AltLd

led 1st chimney pitch.....

Hidden 01/Apr/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jan/07 2nd O/S
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
2RoyalAnglian ??/2007 Lead O/S

first climb at the roaches! great fun

with mark ansty
Diggler ??/2007 Lead
LP ??/2007 -
doughboy_swiftandsure 28/Oct/06 Lead O/S

did in one pitch, but i did bastardise this route, following some of the buttress route (went up on right side after first pro placement, before returning to the crack for the finish). my excuse is that everything was sopping wet, and slimy in places, with meant anything other than big juggy holds was out. good pro placements after first overhang, though take lots of large nuts.

with Paul Graves (HOPS)
HeatherF 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with My mum and my sister
igneouscarl 10/Oct/06 2nd RP

Tried lead but felt harder than VD. Seconded route in the end, not too pleasant in the chimney.

Dave Wearing 17/Sep/06 2nd
with Simonty1
simonfife 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Alfredo ?/Aug/06 Lead
with Ben R
JPGR 30/Jul/06 Lead
with Yvette
markju 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S

need to practices on setting cams, prefer using nut

with karl
pottsworth 12/Jul/06 Lead

Nice climb, a bit squirmy in places, but generally nice First bit of gear is a bit high, but bomber, after that its just a case of how many big wires you have, and the route will swallow anything you flirtingly waft in it's direction

Alaister Nurse 29/Jun/06 Lead

missed the belay point and did it in a one-er. woops! i agree the first bit of protection is a little high but its solid. At this point I went left, I am reliably informed it is easier to the right. slightly polished

with Edward Jenkins
DerwentDiluted 25/Jun/06 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
mick1jones 25/Jun/06 Lead dog

First full lead. Awesome and scary! First pitch no real problems. Set up faulty belay anchor. Fell at start of second and final pitch before placing gear. No worries. Did it again and succeeded. Yippee kyay mf...

with Rod Deaves
Hidden 07/Jun/06 2nd
dan gibson 04/Jun/06 Solo rpt
Mike Parker 21/May/06 2nd
naughtybadboy 16/May/06 Lead
with simon day
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/06 2nd O/S
aaronthehippy 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S

I hate chimneys! The route being littered with snow a fluffy owl pellets didn't add much appeal.

with Rubin & Rachel
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Sarah Applegate ??/2006 2nd
with Sid Davies
John Lisle ??/2006 -
jackiechimp ??/2006 -
Hidden 12/Nov/05 Lead
Hidden 29/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Si dH 16/Oct/05 Lead rpt
with Ellie and Katie
david morse ?/Oct/05 Lead
with chris todd
Hidden 16/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/05 Lead
Celia Watson 03/Sep/05 2nd
Somerset swede basher ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with John Sargeant
Hidden 21/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/05 2nd
Hidden 20/Aug/05 Lead
LoopyLou ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Helen Lear
Hidden 20/Jul/05 Lead
Caralynh 20/Jul/05 2nd
JuneBob 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Alison
Hidden 11/Jun/05 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/05 Lead O/S
kenneM ?/May/05 Lead
with Will Taylor
Hidden 02/Apr/05 Lead O/S
crossdressingrodney 20/Feb/05 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 20/Feb/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Jamie Brown ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Craig
mark s ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
mwh ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
with MagnusL
andy tetsill ?/Oct/04 Lead
with Joy Luke Hazel
Rampikino 07/Aug/04 Lead

VS4c finish

with Liz, Ian, Claire, Glyn
donkster ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with trigg
BALD EAGLE 24/Jul/04 Lead
with Kamil Weinberg
John Eley ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Katie Weston 16/May/04 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
mol ?/Apr/04 Lead
with Helen Alderson
Dave Latimer 30/Mar/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/04 2nd
Jonny M ?/Feb/04 Lead O/S
CurlyStevo ??/2004 Lead
tobydunford 02/Nov/03 Solo O/S
duncana 14/Sep/03 Lead

Interesting chimney, with nice seat to rest on half way up.

with Pippa Archer
Dux 07/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Premal
Katie Weston ?/Sep/03 Lead rpt
SteveM 16/Aug/03 Lead
with Bekhs
Snowie 05/Aug/03 Lead O/S
jimshrimp 24/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/03 Lead
Hidden 12/Jul/03 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead
Hidden 26/May/03 Lead
ASchwirtz 03/May/03 Lead O/S
with Shona D'arcy
Hidden ?/May/03 -
Allan Young 26/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
with Rob Morris
roverhead 20/Apr/03 2nd
petekeron ??/2003 Lead O/S


9fingerjon ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Uncle Steve
Hidden ??/2003 -
Lev 19/Oct/02 Lead O/S
Stevie_R 23/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with rod
Alastair Hudson 20/Apr/02 Lead
with Clare Young
FrankW 20/Apr/02 AltLd O/S
with Joe
Howard J 14/Apr/02 Lead rpt
with Jon Edwards
andy007 03/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Jon Humphreys
platt2000 ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
MontyH 28/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Andy Lawrance
Will Gordon ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Tom Roberts
Hidden 30/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Retroman3 23/Jun/01 2nd O/S

1st ever climb

with Yan
Hidden 13/Jan/01 2nd
Hidden ??/2001 Lead rpt
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
Hidden 14/Oct/00 Lead O/S
Howard J 29/Aug/00 2nd
Hidden 25/Aug/00 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Gman ?/Aug/00 2nd O/S
with Ed
Hidden 31/Jul/00 Lead
Russell Flynn 23/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Jo
bpmclimb 17/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 17/Jul/00 2nd
sixties 08/Jun/00 Lead
with hrd
spqr 05/May/00 2nd O/S
with Chesh
Steve Pardoe 01/May/00 Lead

Excellent, "traditional", two pitches http://www.pardoes.nildram.co.uk/pages/roach9a18.htm

with Simon Pardoe
chrishedgehog 08/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Solo
alan moore ??/2000 -
Howard J 22/Jun/99 Lead rpt
with Sheila Donelon
antroy 15/May/99 Lead
Hidden ?/May/99 Solo
Katie Weston ?/May/99 2nd
EllieWoods 14/Mar/99 Solo O/S
with Kath Rosedale
Martyn ??/1999 -
Dom Whillans ??/1999 -
Paul-Michael ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Simon Randall
Howard J 03/May/98 AltLd rpt
with Niels Christiansen
buxtoncoffeelover ?/May/98 Lead
Biff0r ??/1998 Lead

Led, but ended up on Buttress (scared)

Hidden 12/Oct/97 Solo
skygodley 18/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Chris Murray ?/Jun/96 Lead
A Crook 19/Apr/96 2nd
rocktigger ??/1996 2nd
with chopper
Hidden 09/Aug/95 Lead
Howard J 23/May/95 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1995 Solo
brady ??/1995 Lead
with John Cameron
smudge 05/Jul/93 Solo O/S
roncaves 13/Jun/93 Solo
Carl Hamer 05/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/93 Solo
SimonN ??/1993 -
stokienomad 23/Apr/92 Lead
Fiskavaig ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 Solo
nai ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/91 Lead
SimonN 22/May/91 Solo
Martyn ??/1991 2nd O/S
Ian Archer 01/Jul/90 Lead
with Marcus Sierp
Roget 13/Apr/90 Solo O/S
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
OMSKB ??/1989 Lead
Iain Thow 28/Jun/88 Solo


Hidden ??/1988 -
Yourlead ??/1988 Lead
with Ric Gregory
andy tetsill ?/Sep/87 Lead
with whitehall instructing
Nigel Bond 20/Apr/85 Lead
with Martin Cash
Hidden 12/Apr/85 Solo
Mark Kemball 13/Mar/84 Solo
Hidden ??/1984 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Aug/83 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 28/Nov/82 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
Hidden ??/1982 -
Nigel Bond 08/Mar/80 Lead
with Martin Crosby
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Solo
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
leland stamper 14/Oct/79 Solo O/S
duncan ?/Sep/79 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench ??/1979 Lead O/S
dangerdave ??/1979 Lead
with Nick Elliott
Nigel Bond 07/May/78 Solo
babymoac 25/Jun/77 Solo
Gordon Stainforth 01/May/77 Solo


Gordon Stainforth 30/Apr/77 Solo
Hidden 08/May/76 Lead
Bolt Phobia 07/Mar/76 Solo
with Martyn Hurn
rogerskews ??/1976 AltLd
Chris Terrey ??/1976 Lead
with Roger Wilson
Chris Ellis 21/Sep/75 2nd
with John Hall
jon 24/Jan/72 Solo
Rog Wilko ?/Feb/71 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
pneame 15/Oct/70 -
with Tich Smitton
mikej 07/May/69 Lead
with Brian Hill
mikej 30/Apr/69 Solo
with Wil Hurford
Hidden 27/Mar/66 Lead
tapley ??/1964 -
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Style of ascent
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