Rockfax Description
A classic route though with an arduous (but avoidable) start. Using the chimney start lowers the route to an amenable HS 4b.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb the fingery polished scoop by a long reach, or avoid it by the chimney on the left. Weave up towards the overhangs, pulling over a bulge with difficulty to enter a groove. Trend right below the huge roofs to the Pipe stance.
2) 3c, 10m. The pleasant jamming cracks on the right are awkward to enter and soon lead to the cliff top. © Rockfax
FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1913.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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LakesWinter | 6 May, 2007 |
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βeta: This is a really good route, the gear is good all the way and the start is about 4c! This 5b nonsense is rubbish, compared to other 5b problem starts like Baron's Wall at Curbar this is really easy! | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is a really good route, the gear is good all the way and the start is about 4c! This 5b nonsense is rubbish, compared to other 5b problem starts like Baron's Wall at Curbar this is really easy! |
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andy jennings | 28 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Fantastic route, particularly the exposed traverse to the belay stance. The start is nicely technical but i found it to definitely be easier than 5a, compare it to the start of Pincer on the lower tier also 5a and a similar style but much harder. Shame the top crack is so easy, but it doesn't detract***. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic route, particularly the exposed traverse to the belay stance. The start is nicely technical but i found it to definitely be easier than 5a, compare it to the start of Pincer on the lower tier also 5a and a similar style but much harder. Shame the top crack is so easy, but it doesn't detract***. |
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EarlyBird | 6 Jan, 2003 |
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βeta: Sorry, should have read "2m. right of the chimney". | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sorry, should have read "2m. right of the chimney". |
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EarlyBird | 6 Jan, 2003 |
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βeta: This route does start about 2m. left of the chimney, doesn't it? If so there is no pro. until you've done the starting (crux) moves. Felt 5b to me, or is this another "harder for the short" scenario. Rest of the climb is plain sailing in comparison. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This route does start about 2m. left of the chimney, doesn't it? If so there is no pro. until you've done the starting (crux) moves. Felt 5b to me, or is this another "harder for the short" scenario. Rest of the climb is plain sailing in comparison. |
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Tim Steward | 28 Apr, 2002 |
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βeta: There is another variation start in between 4b and 5b where you climb up a small block at the foot of the chimney, where using a pocket for your left hand and some small footholds, you can get a number 2 nut into the finger crack at a strech, providing excellent protection for a delecate step accross to layback off the finger crack and continue up. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There is another variation start in between 4b and 5b where you climb up a small block at the foot of the chimney, where using a pocket for your left hand and some small footholds, you can get a number 2 nut into the finger crack at a strech, providing excellent protection for a delecate step accross to layback off the finger crack and continue up. |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)