250m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 230m. The second most popular route on this buttress includes some brilliant climbing - this is a great route taking an unlikely line up the middle of the face. Start 5m to the right of the lowest part of the rock.
1) 5c, 30m. Climb the shallow corner, which feels quite awkward straight off the deck, and an enjoyable hand-jamming crack above. Step right to belay on a flat ledge. This is pitch 1 of Contamine.
2) 5b, 25m. Step right off the belay and follow the slabby crack. Move right where this steepens and belay on the left-hand end of a long ledge.
3) 5c, 40m. Walk 3m rightwards along the ledge and climb the superb left-leaning crack above. A fantastic pitch.
4) 6a, 30m. Move right off the belay and follow positive crimps out to another crack, which leads to the foot of the crux. Another belter!
5) 6b, 20m. The parallel cracks above the belay lead (after 10m) to some large flakes. Climb these (easier than the parallel cracks) to belay on the right, below slabbier ground.
6) 5b, 30m. Climb the slab via a series of cracks and pass rightwards of a small overhang to a well-positioned belay.
7) 5a, 30m. The climbing eases even further here but the situation is superb. Follow flakes to a notch just to the left of the ridge crest and a junction with the Contamine.
8) 5b, 25m. The corner above the belay leads to a slab and, finally, the summit. This is pitch 8 of the Contamine.
Descent - There are numerous fixed abseil points on the main face and abseiling Harold et Maud and Contamine usually involves using belays on both routes to avoid rope snags and congestion on busy days. © Rockfax

A Contamine, P Labrunie, R Wohlschlag 30/Aug/1959

Hugh Irving ?/Aug AltLd O/S

Fun climbing, especially the crux pitch. left the bags at the bottom after much debate, which worked out really well, mostly since we didn't get any ropes caught abseiling.

Hidden 03/Jun AltLd O/S
harry_lewis ?/Apr AltLd O/S

abbed after crux pitch

with CRead
CRead ?/Apr AltLd O/S
davkeo 31/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

7 pitches to the top. Carried bags which made the climbing a little more physical but a shorter walk back to the midi. Led p1,3,5&7. All pitches were really excellent particularly 1,4,5&7. Crux pitch was steep with fantastic jamming. P7 we went out left and up to avoid the crowds. This way gave a lovely pitch with an E1 roof to negotiate & about 60m of climbing. Sustained route & better than its Neighbour the Contamine IMO. 7.5hrs lift to lift.

with Misha
Misha 31/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Very good route, not a bad pitch on it. We did it in 7 pitches, crux 5th pitch featured steep E2 5b jamming, the rest were around HVS. Good rock and hardly any pegs but most belays in situ. Not clear exactly where the last pitch is meant to go, we took a rising diagonal foot traverse leftwards from a bolted stance and up a crack through a small overhang. Moved together about 10 metres on both of the last two pitches (50m ropes). Led P2, 4 and 6. Took boots and crampons up the route so easy walk off the back and no rush to the Midi. 5 hours for the route, 7.5 hour round trip. Menacing clouds all day but had the sun for about half the time. Started hailing as we were walking across the Midi bridge but dry by the time we got down to Cham. Nice day hit on a filler-in day.

Hidden 10/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/16 AltLd
dan-8990 07/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with PF
Rob Pitt 06/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Abbed off after twin cracks pitch

with Lou
ndraper1 27/Jun/16 Lead O/S

With Agnes. Pitches went 5+,5+,5+, 6a, 6b, 4, 4 1/2.... then we rapped across to the contamines stations which is recommended. Great route- definitely heavy on the jams! Gloves were welcome. Would be awkward to climb the crux with a full pack so wouldn't recommend doing that. Double set of cams.

steve_gibbs 28/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
zcsharp 28/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Abbed down then climbed out successfully this time. Last route of the stay up on the midi col, so was pretty knacked but managed the crux clean, this time without have to free suck rope.

Sam Marks 03/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Seconding the crux with the bag full of boots and crampons felt hard...

with George Newham
NewHam ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
zcsharp 16/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Tried to ab down first but ropes got stuck so we just climbed from where they got stuck, god knows what route we did but i doubt it was this one in the end.

with Al
MonkeyDawson ?/Aug/13 -
andyinglis 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great route... especially if you like jamming!

Alasdair Fulton 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great route if a little "unobvious". Maybe I just don't get on with camp-to-camp topos?? Plenty proper jamming, some laybacking and some viscously sharp granite. Tape up or man up!

walts4 ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
MonkeyDawson ?/Aug/12 -
with Simon Smith
danimal88 14/May/12 AltLd O/S

jam tastic, super solid. don't think too hard when getting in aboot the flake. probably HVS/E1 5b ish

with Ben O C
Hidden 11/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/86 AltLd O/S
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