48m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine finish via the hanging prow out in space is the highlight. Short-lived but thrilling and very exposed.
1) 4b, 26m. Follow the slippery flake of Medusa to the shattered wall, then continue up the steep groove to reach a cramped stance on the slabby gangway. The way on is where you don't want it to be; out into space.
2) 5c, 22m. Climb up the ramp a little way then swing right and up to a tiny ledge. Gain the undercut crack on the right with difficulty and follow it to the top. Well protected but wild.
The Sinister Finish, E1 5b - From the small ledge it is also possible to head left to a crack. Even more exposed. © Rockfax

FA. John Loy, D Mellor (1 pt. of aid) 1960. FFA. (Direct Finish) Chris Jackson 1976

Ticklists: The Peak: Past and Present, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life.

ian bryant 09/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Mr. K 12/Mar/17 AltLd dnf

I lead pitch one to the belay, felt like solid 5A getting up the steep groove onto the stance! Julie had a crack at the second pitch but ended up escaping up Medusa. Good times. =o)

with Julie Mair
Jim Slater ??/2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
adie84 16/Aug/16 -
ned_85 16/Aug/16 AltLd

Sinister finish

with Robert Adie
Hidden 04/Oct/15 2nd
Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
chrisdjackson 13/Sep/15 2nd dog

Rested while working through crux on second pitch. Real hard for the HVS it gets in the updated Limestone north.

with lewis
theotherpetehill 04/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
chrisallan 04/Aug/15 AltLd dog
pulseroom 23/Jul/15 2nd
tebs 24/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Got to the massive in situ Raven's nest thinking that the route was (literally) the biggest pile of shit, but the exposed finale saved the day. Great route!

with Sam
sgl 24/Jun/15 AltLd
with Bart
HimTiggins 07/Sep/14 2nd dog
with Jon
James Oswald 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, the final section is brilliant. Amazing climbing and exposure.

with Clare Erskine
The Reaper 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
DanielGyi 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Linked to two pitches. Great exposure over a quite awkward to gain crack. Really cool climb.

hlegge 07/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Dan linked both pitches. The awkward move right off the small ledge was scary and hard, but satisfying

with Dan Gyi
braders94 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
James Oakes 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Amazing exposure.

jayrenegade 15/Sep/12 AltLd RP

Second attempt at this route. Clean first time this time. Very good route.

with Prav
Jake Young 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Nick1812P 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

P2, Direct

with Jake
jayrenegade 01/Sep/12 AltLd dnf

Dale P1 Me P2. Well this kicked my butt. Finnshed up medusa after falling on the peg a few times. Tried it on top rope afterwards and think that I probably needed more laybacking less face holds... I'll be back.

with Dale
Alex@home 25/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

nice climbing and good positions but only 1 remotely hard move (5b - just need to be able to jam) which is very well protected. not sure that makes it worth e1

with The Doctor
Martin Cooper 26/Jun/12 2nd

Sinister finish

with Neil
Neil McA 26/Jun/12 AltLd
with martin cooper
Graeme Hammond 13/May/12 AltLd O/S

Excellent wild 2nd pitch (led) seemed tough E1 5b*** rather than 5c

Fragmod 04/Mar/12 AltLd dog
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/2012 Lead


Jonathan Hall 04/Jun/11 AltLd

Lead P2, felt pretty wild.

disturbed_one51 04/Jun/11 AltLd

Thrillingly exposed. lead pitch 1

with Wee man
Hidden 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
smudge 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Superb, cracking exposure adds spice on the crux moves. Shame that the difficulties are short lived.

with John St Leger
Hannes B 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Rik
rikbattye 31/Aug/10 2nd
Daniel Wicks 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 AltLd
Somerset swede basher 21/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Dan Wicks
Rich Guest 24/May/10 Lead O/S

Hard sequence up from the laced cracked roof, which is best done as a runout. Required some quick thinking to avoid dogging

Hidden 24/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/10 AltLd O/S
tom.e 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

direct, led p1

with Pete
nickcanute ??/2010 -
Mike_Hayes 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
MD 19/Sep/09 2nd dog

Weighted the rope twice

with Ian B, Misha
Misha 19/Sep/09 Lead dog

Pumped out after placing gear so couldn't quite do the rockover move onto the right foot and had to have a rest (small fall). Did it easily after a rest on the ledge.

Hidden 11/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Barney 29/Apr/07 Lead dnf

Very bold crux to Via Vita. Had to back off as I spent far too long hanging on one arm trying to find the right size friend and got pumped to hell. The 5b alternative finish wasn't too bad and managed to finish! TBC...

with MGrist
IanJackson 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Very Good. More HVS

with Luke Hunt
Martin Haworth ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S

sinister finish

with Richard
Martin Haworth ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Andy
Neil Ireson ?/Jul/05 Lead
with Guy M
cem 22/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Phil West 31/May/03 AltLd dnf

Couldn't commit to the crux groove, so tension traversed back to Medusa & finished up that. Chris dropped a hex into the nettles below & we couldn't find it. Bumbled off to the pub.

with Chris Tan
Phill Mitch ??/2003 Lead O/S
with john d
Brown ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
cem 06/May/00 Lead O/S

The Sinister Finish

with James Gregory
Andy Edgar ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead β

Failed on normal finish but did Sinister finish at E1 5b.

Chris Ellis 22/Aug/98 AltLd

Louise led the hard pitch

with Louise Pellett
Stoney Boy 05/Aug/98 Lead O/S

Pitch 2

with Mark Walker
Hidden 10/Jun/97 2nd
Hidden 04/Nov/96 AltLd
craig h 04/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
with Rick W and Janet Hannah
Budge 13/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with Mike Oates
brady ??/1996 2nd dog

went off route near the top and got too knackered

with John Cameron, Dave Greenway
AlanLittle ?/Jul/95 AltLd
with Carl Blakeley
Hidden ??/1995 -
roncaves 05/Jun/94 AltLd
with Jonathan Reid, Gavin Williams
mark-abz 21/May/90 Lead
with Phil R
Hidden ?/Jun/89 AltLd
Hidden 01/Apr/89 Lead O/S
AndrewP ??/1989 Lead
John Marsland 11/Jun/88 2nd
with Darrell Small
Hidden ?/Apr/88 AltLd
KRB 24/Aug/86 Lead O/S

Did the Direct Finish

with Mike Bridges
Hidden 07/Jul/85 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/85 AltLd
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1985 -
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Mark Kemball 12/Apr/83 2nd

direct finish

with Dave Kenyon
charlesmfrench 12/Sep/82 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/82 2nd
Martin Bennett 26/Aug/82 -
with JD
Hidden ?/May/82 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Rich Lewis
Mark Kemball 15/Nov/81 Lead
with Nevil Hewitt
Nic Robinson 25/Jun/81 Solo O/S
tapley 16/May/81 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Hidden 11/Jan/81 2nd
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Chris Terrey 05/Jul/80 AltLd
with Pete Hevezi
Rob Davies 05/Apr/80 2nd

RH finish

with Angus McLean
Hidden 05/Apr/80 Lead
Bruce Kerr 04/Apr/80 Lead
with Dave Page
Nigel Bond 26/Jun/76 Lead
with Andy Brown
petemeads 05/Nov/75 Lead
mikej 31/Oct/71 Lead
with E
uphillnow ??/1970 -
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 25
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set