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ROCK FALL JANUARY 2018

To the left of Stackpole Grooves. the Routes Sea Eagle to Shy Talk City have gone as well as the top pitch of The Hawk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction covers the W Face, S Face (inc. Stackpole Point, Cracks Wall, Leaning Tower and Promontory), E Face (inc. Main Face and White Pillar) and from The Gilt Edge/Mussel Up to Poisoned Love and is normally marked by red cliff top markers.

 

 

130m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A massive trip across some wild rock formations which is guaranteed to get the blood pumping and the heart racing. Allow plenty of time and make sure you are a competent well-balanced team since escape after the tide has come in is tricky.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb Swordfish and belay at the base of its groove.
2) 5c, 25m. Climb up to the break then follow it leftwards to a ledge just right of Heaven's Door.
3) 5a, 20m. Step down then pull around the arete. Follow the break to the ledge of Neptune.
4) 5b, 25m. Reverse down the groove of Neptune to gain the juggy band, then traverse left to the slot stance on The Whaler.
5) 5b, 30m. Follow The Whaler but continue left along the upper break to a hanging belay on the arete.
6) 5b, 15m. Traverse the slab using a horizontal crack, then pull up into a groove which leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. (Pitches 1-4) P.Littlejohn, S.Lewis 13.1.1980. FA. (Pitches 5-6) P.Littlejohn, C.Pound 24.9.1980.

Ticklists

101Pembroke Extremes , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Extreme Girdle , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Hard Rock 2020 , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Pembroke Hard/Extreme Rock , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces

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High E4
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High E3
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High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
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Route of Interest
Test Case

Grade: E3 5c ***
(St. Govan's Head)

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