Rockfax Description
Almost a great classic, though the grassy grot just to the right of the lower section is a bit of a spoiler - you will either love it or hate it. Care with the ropework is required. From the gearing-up ledge above the river, pull onto the front face, and climb the arete and wall (or grubby easy ground further right) to a big thread. Swing up and left to enter the hanging groove, and finish spectacularly over the left-hand side of the capping overhang. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Ward-Drummond, Hamish Green-Armytage 1972

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

marconi 16/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Had fun, but went off route (too far right) I reckon

admackie 16/Sep/17 Lead
sopaz 16/Sep/17 2nd
with Mark, Mackie
Somerset swede basher 02/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Adam
Mike505 18/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Stayed to the left most of the way, fun route in a great position. Well worth making the committing move on the left arête rather than stepping right. It feels a little barn doorie and is protected by small gear, but your rewarded with a good medium wire placement once through it.

with Neil
Lessworkmoreclimbing 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Kev
Hidden 18/Jun/17 Lead
Noah Near-Theholds 28/May/17 2nd

With NK

Hidden 23/May/17 Lead O/S
Will Webb 07/May/17 Lead
with Alex
AF Webb 07/May/17 2nd O/S
PaulTanton 30/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Bruce Woodley
buxtoncoffeelover 23/Apr/17 2nd

Excellent fun

Hannes B 23/Apr/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Apr/17 Lead
Hidden 12/Apr/17 2nd
Hidden 03/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Flavio 26/Feb/17 2nd O/S
JendeHoxar 26/Feb/17 Lead O/S
with Flavio
Dale Comley 14/Oct/16 Solo O/S

First time solo rope leading! Massive faf and it took ages but I eventually got a good system sorted

Graham Westbrook 06/Sep/16 Lead O/S
mjackson 06/Sep/16 2nd
gritstone7 30/Aug/16 Lead O/S

May have bypassed the 5b section as I went R then back L again. Would have liked to have gone straight up the arete but couldn't get any gear in where I thought I would and didn't fancy the long run out above a dodgy microwire.

with HB
James Oswald 17/Jul/16 Lead
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 17/Jul/16 2nd
Gambit 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Stayed quite left, felt hard enough, did not find the ab point so abseiled the route

with Ethan
Andy Moles 12/Jul/16 2nd
with Tony
Hannes B 18/Jun/16 2nd
with Rik
MSchobitz 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S

sadly the climbing isn't as good as its position! also stuck quite far left all the way, so may accidentally have done some of the e3 (according to the guidebook lines)

drobin 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with fran
Hidden 08/May/16 2nd β
Hillson 04/May/16 2nd
with Dave
Hidden ??/2016 Lead
James Thacker ??/2016 -
chris fox 29/Sep/15 Lead rpt

climbed to get access for a Headpoint on The Gladiator.

Mike Hegarty 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Christian Fox
chris fox 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Made it into a mini epic for the watching masses !

islandlynx 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

In the rockfax it says up the face or arete or head rightwards. I wonder if the difference in difficuulty between these ways is quite significant. i went rightwards and never found a 5b move on the route. hence it felt very soft for the grade. I was constantly waiting for a hard part and then found myself jug hauling over the overhang. nevertheless a great route

AmyAmy 29/Aug/15 2nd

Great route, was a bit nervous about having an audience to start with but soon forgot about it. last section looks intimidating but there are lots of good jugs all the way up.

with Tom riddlesdell, islandlynx
Horton 29/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Think I took an easy option further right than the true e1 climb. Cracking route, though

with Shane
TomRiddelsdell 29/Aug/15 2nd β

Soft for the grade but a fantastic route with awesome exposure...and an encouraging crowd of spectators!

amccann 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S
harry_lewis 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
BTphonehome 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Kasha
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
kasha_gregson 08/Aug/15 2nd
with Bram
Dan Hostford 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

A bit loose

rd20 19/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with David P
dprctr 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 01/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Bern Hardman
Kevster 24/May/15 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this one. Finding the ab was the hardest bit (chain is a little hidden)

Compo 24/May/15 2nd O/S
with Kev Faux
Hidden ??/2015 -
Neil McA 03/Oct/14 2nd rpt
with Tom Ripley
SGD 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Really good pitch, had quite a bit of rope drag at the top as I didn't extend my runners far enough. Excellent top groove and the 1st section is quite intimidating till you get moving

Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd dnf
david morse 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Chossy but good gear

with KT
cem 09/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Graeme Hammond 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Rock and climbing better than expected, people who find it loose & vegetated must be climbing off route to the right as all the rock is clean and solid all the way. Gear at the crux a little fiddly to get right but is steep rather than hard. Glad of jams at the top as got a bit pumped. Good to finally do and glad not to have an epic in front of the crowds :)

with Charles
benw681 ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S


with Ella, Jake
Jim Slater 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Good climb, took a while to commit to the crux, was a bit goey.

George Salt 27/Jul/14 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
helin 20/Jul/14 2nd
with gavin
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Tim Rodgers 30/Jun/14 2nd
JasTaplin 01/Jun/14 2nd
J.Wells 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ColinD 31/May/14 Lead
with Craig
belay bunny turned bad 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with al
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd
john lynch 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S


with Lewis Andrew
j.buckley87 06/Oct/13 -
fabricio 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with leon
leon 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S

tricky, good lead by fab. got a round of applause at the top!!

Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd
duzinga 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Quality moves, did not encounter any choss whatsoever. The runout from the leftward slanting crack of white edge to the thread felt very serious though.

jamie ward 27/Jul/13 2nd
with Marcus Harvey
Jake Young 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
garethb 13/Jul/13 2nd
with cheque
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
ambrooker 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Tom
chiverstom 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Been meaning to do this for ages. Great position but climbing not exceptional

with Alice
tatz45 27/May/13 Lead O/S

Awesome route, definitely top end E1.

ejected ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
captain ??/2013 -
Andy Peak 1 08/Sep/12 Lead
with H washbrook
Rachel Slater 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Wet, slimy, dirty and loose.

Chi Cheng 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S


Sophie Nunn 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Sion, Phil
Colin Scotchford 15/Jul/12 Lead
Jonathan Hall 07/Jul/12 Lead

Was really wet in places so had to go left a bit more than I would of liked and it made the crux feel tricky. Top didn't feel pumpy at all. Good route, better location.

Hidden 07/Jul/12 2nd
riddle 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 30/Jun/12 2nd
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
caradoc 14/Jun/12 Lead O/S

I enjoyed this one, bit nervous with all the crowds watching but it was straightforward, pumpy at the end. Nick got a round of applause when he finished.

with nick yapp
chrism225 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with jonny
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
dan gibson 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with michael porter
Dave Turnbull, BMC 22/May/12 Lead
with Dominic Oughton
markalmack 13/May/12 2nd O/S
tlmarjot 13/May/12 Lead dog
with Mark Almack
Dizz 11/Mar/12 Lead

Went wrong way at top - did not go left. Have to do again now!

with Matt K
Hidden 11/Mar/12 2nd
Brannock 10/Mar/12 2nd
Martin Haworth 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Bob ??/2012 -
captain dringo ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 Lead O/S

Probably the worst route in Extreme Rock

with Tim Hill
adie84 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
bigie bob 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 2nd dog
richardr 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Mike Todd 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Soon after I started climbing, the heavens opened... I got properly scared on slimestones and it took ages to complete the route. Thank God, at least the gear is good. Good route, though!

with Matt B
hamish2016 ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with Chris Clarke
thomasadixon 20/Apr/11 Lead RP

Good clean climb as I did it, though went onto the White Edge for it's top section...couldn't resist what seemed the obvious way and the "right" way looked chossy. Very good! Wicked belay an position on the climb above the river.

with Becca
Chriswallis2 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Anna
rikbattye ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
thebigfriendlymoose ??/2011 -
Brannock 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S

The first E1 ive done for a while. Great psoition and all the attention from passers by is always nice, climbing bit grubby and lose in places. Overall great route through. Abbed off the chins at the other end of the rock.

vanderz 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hannes B 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Rik
drcorbasisgod 25/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Dogmusher 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with chris parson
cem 03/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
bigdrew 27/Jun/10 2nd rpt
with Mark R
mark20 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Felt a bit ran out without microwires for the crux. Good belay at the top of route, then scramble along the top to obvious tat and chain to ab off. Fine route, and good rock.

Misha 16/May/10 Lead O/S

Have been wanting to do this for a while. Excellent climbing and positions. Didn't find the abseil chains as they are slightly below the top of the pinnacle (later saw them clearly marked in the guide book photo...) so lowered off a bit of tat. That was fine but then the ropes wouldn't pull through, so ended up spending an hour freeing them - had to scramble with one of the free ends up tottering vegetation opposite the pinnacle until just above the top of the pinnacle and pull the rope from there, which worked (was beginning to contemplate climbing back up on the free ends!). The vegetated section to the right of the route doesn't intrude at all.

with Paul
Pay Attention 16/May/10 2nd
with Misha
zombie_pat 15/May/10 2nd O/S
with Pete
GF ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
snakebite 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S
mlmatt 10/Oct/09 Lead

Fell off and ripped 2 cams out. Came down to sort myself out before I decided to get back on it. Was on a bit of a mission to do it as it was Dan's last time in the peak for a year. I'll go back for the flash one day!. Oh got the abseil ropes stuck so had to prussic back up in the dark, good times!

with Dan Masterman
Sam1991 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Only my 4th ever E1 on limestone, absolutely loved it. Found it hard work in places, but you get good rests after the hard bits. Crux protected by bomber microwire or iffy rock 1, you choose! Took me a long time (an hour ish), and even the crowds got bored. Hardly a flamboyant ascent, but still found it absolutely awsome.

with Mark
bigdrew 18/Aug/09 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Owen W-G 09/Aug/09 Lead dog

Had a torrid time on epic (90min?) ascent, foolishly venturing left around the arete about 6m prematurely onto the steep E3 rather than straight up the right wall (trending right-ish) to the giant thread. Pumped silly, rested on one decrepid peg above the huge jug on White Edge and, with mojo crushed, again at the top groove. First E1 failure in ages and a v public humbling on a sunny summer Sunday, one to come back to.

with Si & Andy
sdht ?/Aug/09 Lead
with Jill
Alex Mason 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

did it right this time, last time i did the white edge, some cool sections, but, clearly trying to make a route where there isnt really one.

with Tom Martin
miastacey 04/Jul/09 2nd
with Heather Clarke
Brown 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Henry
porridgefan 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S

I loved the attention! Technical and exposed, but felt easy compared to other local E1s; maybe I went off route a little? I tried to stay plum to the arete though...

with Niall Francis
Hidden 28/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Mr Powly ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Different Steve 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Tough at the grade...

with Clio
Clee 23/Aug/08 2nd
with Steve
JDSwain 23/Jun/08 2nd
IanJackson 23/Jun/08 Lead

great position, but escapable, and poor/easy climbing after the crux moves.

willackers 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Mills
Hidden 21/May/08 2nd
philhilo 21/May/08 Lead
Hidden 10/May/08 2nd
WB 10/May/08 Lead O/S

and zaff

with Guy
Paul Bowen 10/May/08 Lead O/S
Mr Powly 06/May/08 Lead dog
tuftynick ??/2008 -
Silum ??/2008 Lead O/S

i cant possibly imagine trending off right into the crappy moss. Stick to the direct arete and its pretty brilliant climbing, certainly not over could a climb in this position be anything but awesome

with Tom
bourney ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
juza 13/Aug/07 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 30/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with charles
Si dH 24/May/07 2nd dog

Came off once tryign to go direct up the arete, which seemed desperate. Slunk off right and followed the easier ground up to the thread (as Neil had), then went back left round the arete and up the groove (pumpy). Some good climbing but wandering that much and a lot of muck and loose stuff - not great. Direct up the arete all the way to the thread is no doubt betetr but felt really hard.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Stephen
Sankey 21/Apr/07 2nd dog
with Luke
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
Alex Mason 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S

got confused with this one ended up on the white edge, which interestingly was the only bit of quality climbing i found on my route!

Whitt 17/Jul/06 2nd dog
with Andy
Hidden 16/Jul/06 Lead dog
colin milton 12/Jul/06 Lead

a long haul

with pep
Apharri ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
mark s ??/2006 Lead O/S
with andi t
soph ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Mark crampton
pauldrew ??/2004 Lead
with Kevin Sales
Okecroak 19/Sep/03 Lead
with J Teale
cem 05/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Rod Strachan
DubyaJamesDubya 22/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Martin Flint
Rob Kinsey ??/2003 -


with JamesR
sadams 18/Apr/01 Lead
with Tom Briggs
Dave Rumney 28/Aug/00 Lead
with Kev Sales
goi.ashmore 14/May/00 Lead O/S
with Iain Fisher
Tim M ??/2000 -
philhilo ??/2000 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 30/May/99 Lead
Trobbo 20/Mar/99 -
with andy hartley
richsmithinbristol 30/Aug/98 Lead O/S

First Extreme Rock Tick!

Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
phardman ??/1997 -
Hidden 29/Jun/95 Lead O/S
andyblain ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
keefe ??/1995 -
Ian Jones ??/1995 Lead O/S


with Karen Ghiselli
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Cowflinger ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
shoulders ?/Aug/94 Lead
Marti999 ?/May/94 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ?/Apr/94 2nd

I really can't remember much about this climb as it made such a lasting impression...?

with Rick Kruze
ded ??/1994 Lead O/S
craigholloway 23/May/93 2nd
with Paul O'Reilly
FATBOYFAT ??/1993 -
Andy Say 03/May/92 Lead
andrew300169 ??/1992 Lead dog
with Tim
nai ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 -
Roget 24/Mar/91 Lead O/S
with casper
NickJH ??/1991 -
Hidden ??/1991 Lead
Hidden ??/1991 -
Hidden 27/May/90 2nd
Bruce Kerr 17/Mar/90 2nd
keefe ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 2nd
with John N
SB_NWUK_99 ??/1990 2nd

Climbed in (about) 1990.

Dave Musgrove 09/Aug/89 2nd
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 09/Aug/89 Lead
with Dad
Will Webb 01/May/89 Lead
with Mark Cole
Hidden ?/Aug/88 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/88 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 16/May/88 Lead O/S
with Neil Binns
Hidden ??/1988 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez 11/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Rob Davies ?/May/87 2nd

Scrappy start, very steep finish

Derek Furze ??/1987 Lead
with Thorney
Derek Furze ??/1987 Lead
with Thorney
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
rogerskews ??/1987 -
with Steve Walker
ukb & bmc shark 08/Oct/86 2nd
with Chris
Neil McA 06/Oct/86 Lead O/S
with Dave Wills
Hidden 21/Sep/86 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/86 2nd
Andy Edgar ??/1986 Lead O/S

Long over due ascent, enjoyable but not great

uphillnow ??/1986 Lead
with Andrew (Pog) Horn
Hidden 05/Oct/85 Lead
TonyF 01/May/85 -
with Dave McDowel, Tony Cox
Ian Clare ??/1985 -
andy gittins ??/1985 -
charlesmfrench 24/Apr/84 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull 31/Mar/84 Lead
with Jim Thomas
Hidden 29/Aug/83 2nd
stp 09/Apr/83 Lead O/S
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S

First E1

with Derek Shaw
Hidden 05/Jun/82 Lead
Mike Owen 16/May/82 Lead O/S
with Phil Ralph
Andy Stephenson 01/Sep/81 Lead O/S
with Chris Plant
duncan ?/Jun/81 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/80 2nd
Hidden ??/1980 -
robinsi197 ??/1980 AltLd
with Barbara
Hidden ??/1978 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/76 Lead
petemeads 17/May/76 Lead O/S
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 52
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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