Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
The line which became known as the 'Easter Island of Hard Rock fame' was always a bit disappointing and there was good reason for that - it wasn't the correct line! Start up Easter Island but keep on the right-hand side of the arete (or grubby easy ground further right) to a big thread. Swing up and left to join Easter Island in its upper groove where the route earns its stars. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This is what many people have climbed over the years thinking it was Easter Island. In fact the original route is more on the left-hand side of the arete and a good bit harder. The names have been switched now to reflect the historical accuracy.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E1 ticklist , On Peak Rock , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , The Festival Of Shite , Peak District Limestone Trad , Peak District Pinnacles , Dunc's ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Graeme Hammond | 12 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Easter Island was in Extreme Rock not of "Hard Rock fame" | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Easter Island was in Extreme Rock not of "Hard Rock fame" |
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| Ropeboy | 24 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable, expect an audience if you do it on the weekend. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very enjoyable, expect an audience if you do it on the weekend. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Moyer's Buttress
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gardom's Edge)