Rockfax Description
II, 350m. An excellent route with a variety of crack pitches and a mixture of comfortable belays on ledges but also a few semi-hanging belays.
1) 6a. Go straight up a steep grey corner to reach a belay, just left of the corner, which is visible from the approach.
2) 6a+. Go straight up some steep flakes for 10m then step left and climb a superb slab on a pillar then a crack system above.
3) 5c. An excellent chimney is followed by an equally good flake-crack.
4) 6a+. Go up and slightly left on a (sparsely) bolted slab. Go left around the first, smaller overhang and then head straight up to go right of the big overhang that Copie Carbone goes through. At the top of the pitch is an excellent ledge.
5) 5c. A short crack pitch, just to the left of a large offwidth, leading to an even bigger ledge.
6) 5b. Follow ledges up the crest of a vague ridge to the foot of a corner.
7) 6a+. Head up the corner, which is excellent, and then make a rising traverse right, past a bolt, to reach a small ledge.
8) 6b. Make a series of hard moves off the belay then follow a series of cracks and flakes up and gradually right to a platform.
9) 6b+. Move left slightly then go right, up an exposed hanging chimney system to reach an airy stance.
10) 6a. Follow a chimney up and right to reach a large grey platform beneath the summit.
11) 4c. Gain the ridge behind the platform and follow this easily to the top of the Tour Rouge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
6b+ max / 6a obl

Gerard Hopfgartner / Michel Piola 09/Jul/1995.

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