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Please do not belay to the radar station fence, fence posts or any MoD installations - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. There are natural anchors and stakes where needed. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday. Note: May 2024, there is a bird nest in the crack above the cave of No Hands. Please avoid the routes ‘Follow the Chalk' and 'No Hands’ until end of July or chicks have fledged. Thanks.

25m.

Rockfax Description
Easy climbing leads to a steeper upper section. © Rockfax

FA. S.Findlay, S.Martin Aug/2006.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Joe.Marshh 21 Apr Show βeta
βeta: LOOSE ROCK. Climbing this on second, I pulled off a head sized hand hold that dropped below. Would’ve been a dire situation to have had it happen on lead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: LOOSE ROCK. Climbing this on second, I pulled off a head sized hand hold that dropped below. Would’ve been a dire situation to have had it happen on lead.
rich_livock 21 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Joe pulled a big hold off on second, so take care with the rock, there will be others waiting to pop off!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Joe pulled a big hold off on second, so take care with the rock, there will be others waiting to pop off!

Logged Ascents

72 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Saddle Head

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 8
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lydstep Traverse

Grade: VS ***
(Lydstep Point Area)

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