110m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5+, 26m. Follow black marks up the wall and through the overhangs to ledges. Avoiding the Blue Route is tricky.
2) 5+, 30m. Up the wall trending right then through the overhangs via parallel cracks and one stiff pull. Abseil off or:
3) 3, 32m. Easy ground follows threads and the black spots to the steep final wall.
4) 5+ 28m. The wall set high above everything is steep! There is an easier alternative to the left (about 3+) following many threads to the top.
Descent - Abseil back down the route or traverse the crest and make a 40m abseil down the line of Lofi (page 119 ). © Rockfax

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Mike Weatherill 2 May Show βeta
βeta: as said already - no bolts or belay station on last pitch and no in situ threads on grade 3 up the gully to the left but very easy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: as said already - no bolts or belay station on last pitch and no in situ threads on grade 3 up the gully to the left but very easy.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Mike Weatherill 29 Apr Lead
with Vicky Weatherill
with Vicky Weatherill
wheelsucker 26 Mar AltLd O/S A rather confusing route. P1 was hard for 5+ with very spaced bolts. The line is not very obvious and it would be easy to follow the lines on either side. P2 was a bit more amenable. More spaced bolts/thread but a good bolt at the strenuous crux. P3 Wanders up the broken ground and seems to head over to cleaner rock on the right. P4 heads up a steep but well protected corner then easy ground. We abbed down in 5 abseils as we had a 70m single. The ab stations were awkward to find as the route meanders a fair bit. I dropped too far right (looking down) on the 3rd abseil and had to scramble up and head 20m back left. Two more easy abs on the steep lower wall got us to the ground. Worth a star. Didn't see any black spots on the route but the route name is painted on the rock at the bottom of P1
with HW
A rather confusing route. P1 was hard for 5+ with very spaced bolts. The line is not very obvious and it would be easy to follow the lines on either side. P2 was a bit more amenable. More spaced bolts/thread but a good bolt at the strenuous crux. P3 Wanders up the broken ground and seems to head over to cleaner rock on the right. P4 heads up a steep but well protected corner then easy ground. We abbed down in 5 abseils as we had a 70m single. The ab stations were awkward to find as the route meanders a fair bit. I dropped too far right (looking down) on the 3rd abseil and had to scramble up and head 20m back left. Two more easy abs on the steep lower wall got us to the ground. Worth a star. Didn't see any black spots on the route but the route name is painted on the rock at the bottom of P1
with HW
Cristal Escalade 11 Mar AltLd O/S
with Tobias Poppe
with Tobias Poppe
Hidden 26 Feb AltLd
Saffa 26 Feb AltLd
Fentonio 22 Feb AltLd O/S
with Alex Haworth, Ben Brady
with Alex Haworth, Ben Brady
Mark Reeves 5 Feb -
RobHole 17 Jan AltLd O/S
AidanSykes 16 Jan Lead O/S Lead P1 and P4/5. We ended up doing an extra pitch, got a bit confused on the last two pitches and ended up doing an easy trad lead before refinding the bolt line near the top. Came down Lofi, via ferrata style protection protects the scramble down to the top of Lofi. An epic day out! The route doesn't see the sun til quite late in the day so if you are setting off early bring a jacket.
Lead P1 and P4/5. We ended up doing an extra pitch, got a bit confused on the last two pitches and ended up doing an easy trad lead before refinding the bolt line near the top. Came down Lofi, via ferrata style protection protects the scramble down to the top of Lofi. An epic day out! The route doesn't see the sun til quite late in the day so if you are setting off early bring a jacket.
The Climbminister 16 Jan AltLd O/S Got lost on pitch 4, ended up doing a sketchy trad pitch with a handful of protection. Enjoyable mini via ferrata style descent before 2 abseils. My first multi-pitch
with RobHole
Got lost on pitch 4, ended up doing a sketchy trad pitch with a handful of protection. Enjoyable mini via ferrata style descent before 2 abseils. My first multi-pitch
with RobHole
dw.rob4 17 Dec, 2018 2nd 1st pitch only
1st pitch only
GunAnnaMathilda 6 Dec, 2018 2nd dnf Did first two pitches, then ran out of bolts.
Did first two pitches, then ran out of bolts.
wjcdean 18 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S
with BStar
with BStar
wjcdean 17 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S More adventurous than I was expecting. Lead P1, p3 and p5. P1 much harder than i expected or wanted. Used a few bolts on neighbouring routes to avoid using the rusty pitons that you'd have to use otherwise. P2 has more spaced bolts but is mostly easier than it first appears, until the end... P3 little more than scramble. Was expecting bolts on p4 but there werent any we could see. Adam went up and found a few threads to the left of the rockfax description then an unexpected belay. I then went to the top on a few bolts. Wouldn't back able to do this in one pitch from the top of p3 as it's about 70m.
with BStar
More adventurous than I was expecting. Lead P1, p3 and p5. P1 much harder than i expected or wanted. Used a few bolts on neighbouring routes to avoid using the rusty pitons that you'd have to use otherwise. P2 has more spaced bolts but is mostly easier than it first appears, until the end... P3 little more than scramble. Was expecting bolts on p4 but there werent any we could see. Adam went up and found a few threads to the left of the rockfax description then an unexpected belay. I then went to the top on a few bolts. Wouldn't back able to do this in one pitch from the top of p3 as it's about 70m.
with BStar
BStar 17 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Will Dean
with Will Dean
ApcByte 11 Nov, 2018 -
dmason1992 11 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Lianne.Sellors 11 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
Tom Blake 22 Jan, 2018 Lead dnf Ran out of daylight at the top of P2. The long ab down was fun though!
with mmdeas
Ran out of daylight at the top of P2. The long ab down was fun though!
with mmdeas
Hidden 21 Jan, 2018 2nd dnf
Jessicacrump 25 Dec, 2017 AltLd
betathief 25 Dec, 2017 AltLd
Alex 74 1 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
DanielBryan 23 Oct, 2017 AltLd
willpitt07 15 Oct, 2017 Lead 1st pitch only
1st pitch only
Jonny Crean 12 Oct, 2017 Lead
Hidden 27 May, 2017 AltLd
mikestr555 16 Mar, 2017 AltLd pitch2/4
pitch2/4
Paul Sagar 4 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S Good climbing except for the tedious 3 pitch. Quite run out on the final pitch but has to be to deal with drag. Would have been a better experience if I hadn't dropped my brand new reverso off the top pitch, leaving it to live with the goats! We came back via the scramble over the ridge; this is totally do-able without gear and you don't need to rope up. Just be sensible and only do it if the wind is low.
Good climbing except for the tedious 3 pitch. Quite run out on the final pitch but has to be to deal with drag. Would have been a better experience if I hadn't dropped my brand new reverso off the top pitch, leaving it to live with the goats! We came back via the scramble over the ridge; this is totally do-able without gear and you don't need to rope up. Just be sensible and only do it if the wind is low.
Mark Reeves ?Dec, 2016 -
Lawrie Brand 10 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Neil Kerr, James
with Neil Kerr, James
Hidden 8 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
mikestr555 21 Oct, 2016 Lead last pitch
last pitch
Juan S 12 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S The Rockfax 2013 description and photo are wrong. The 3rd pitch is longer than 30m and ends about 15m lower than the image shows. There is no belay where the rockfax shows, nor any bolts/threads up to that point or beyond it. We finished up the last pitch of Cilber (just about possible with 60m halfs, though might need a couple of meters of simul-climbing. Alternatively solo up to the belay of Cilber (or pitch those 15 metres). The first couple of pitches felt more like 6a. If absailing down the route with 60m halfs, you need 3 absails (not 2 as rockfax heights would suggest).
with Wei
The Rockfax 2013 description and photo are wrong. The 3rd pitch is longer than 30m and ends about 15m lower than the image shows. There is no belay where the rockfax shows, nor any bolts/threads up to that point or beyond it. We finished up the last pitch of Cilber (just about possible with 60m halfs, though might need a couple of meters of simul-climbing. Alternatively solo up to the belay of Cilber (or pitch those 15 metres). The first couple of pitches felt more like 6a. If absailing down the route with 60m halfs, you need 3 absails (not 2 as rockfax heights would suggest).
with Wei
Hidden 27 Sep, 2016 Lead rpt
Nigel Bond 2 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Colin Hutton
with Colin Hutton
teamvix 24 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Random 3 Men
with Random 3 Men
Hidden 22 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf
Hidden 3 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
carlh 22 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
garyryan86 9 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S
jimmyg123 9 Feb, 2016 2nd
kivell ?May, 2015 Lead
with P BAKER
with P BAKER
Amber Chaloner 5 Apr, 2015 AltLd Route finding was very hard. So many routes close together. Not sure exactly what we did. Led First and second pitch. Second pitch was a good workout pulling over the bulge.
Route finding was very hard. So many routes close together. Not sure exactly what we did. Led First and second pitch. Second pitch was a good workout pulling over the bulge.
Gareth T 5 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
kingborris ??, 2015 -
Chris Manasseh 24 Nov, 2014 AltLd Led p2. Finished with last pitch of Cilber (led)
with John Armstrong
Led p2. Finished with last pitch of Cilber (led)
with John Armstrong
jvarmstrong 24 Nov, 2014 AltLd led p1 &3 then did cilber to finish off toix ridge
with Chris
led p1 &3 then did cilber to finish off toix ridge
with Chris
Irelando 4 Sep, 2014 Lead
musgravet 4 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Hannah Campbell, Greg Harley
with Hannah Campbell, Greg Harley
hirving 1 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S 3rd pitch
3rd pitch
Hidden 1 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
HP9 ?Apr, 2014 AltLd
with Mark Hayes
with Mark Hayes
Alex Thomson 24 Mar, 2014 -
with jenpen
with jenpen
Hidden 24 Mar, 2014 -
Mark Eddy ??, 2014 -
nacnud 28 Dec, 2013 AltLd
with ewanjp
with ewanjp
adamsandy1 16 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S Multi Pitch
Multi Pitch
Hidden 12 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S
TwoChimes 25 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S Just did 1st pitch
with Davy H
Just did 1st pitch
with Davy H
Jim-Roberts-1987 16 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S Instructing
with Reece Venn, Peter Briggs
Instructing
with Reece Venn, Peter Briggs
llamaglama 30 Mar, 2013 AltLd Not sure where the bolts for the last pitch were. In fact the bolting on most of the route was a little adventurous
with Jamie
Not sure where the bolts for the last pitch were. In fact the bolting on most of the route was a little adventurous
with Jamie
Hidden 30 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
Mikejamoon 20 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Tim Miller
with Tim Miller
Chris wilson 6 Feb, 2013 Lead Not quite sure where this is supposed to go as the bolts run out on p1 unless you go onto the blue route which we did
with David B
Not quite sure where this is supposed to go as the bolts run out on p1 unless you go onto the blue route which we did
with David B
ashtond6 ?Jan, 2013 Lead
SMc 28 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S
with Anne
with Anne
Hidden 26 Dec, 2012 Lead
crispyboy ?Nov, 2012 -
Rosie Hutchins 8 Oct, 2012 2nd O/S
with Dave Button
with Dave Button
Hidden 30 Sep, 2012 Lead dog
mattgrange 23 Sep, 2012 AltLd Got a bit lost, but only a bit
Got a bit lost, but only a bit
LardClimber 23 Sep, 2012 Lead
Hidden 13 May, 2012 -
Dave Sr 13 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S P1
with Marta
P1
with Marta
chriscarroll 8 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Feb, 2012 2nd
Hidden 18 Feb, 2012 Lead
daxtari 30 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S
Lev 1 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S P1 & P2
with Adrian Ross
P1 & P2
with Adrian Ross
Hidden ?Mar, 2011 Lead
Hidden 28 Dec, 2010 Lead
embob 28 Dec, 2010 Lead 1st pitch only. Very nice pitch it was too.
with alik b
1st pitch only. Very nice pitch it was too.
with alik b
Hidden 6 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S
johannes 14 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S First two pitches
First two pitches
Hidden 28 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S
bigrob 29 Jan, 2010 Lead with broken finger
with caz neely
with broken finger
with caz neely
Hidden 20 Dec, 2009 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 19 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with Martin Smith, Brian, MissNicky, Ultimo Dyno Boy, Dhcol
with Martin Smith, Brian, MissNicky, Ultimo Dyno Boy, Dhcol
Grandad ?Oct, 2008 Lead O/S The crux bulge on pitch 1 was hard for 5+ (small layaways, poor footholds for about 10 feet). Good bolts though.
The crux bulge on pitch 1 was hard for 5+ (small layaways, poor footholds for about 10 feet). Good bolts though.
Martin Bennett 9 May, 2008 -
with Simno
with Simno
Hidden 7 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Neil R 27 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
DrGav 14 Oct, 2007 AltLd O/S Pitch 1 was hard for 5+ and runout, esp above the tree.. would hurt to fall. Pitch 3 seemed to carry on for 35m ish, following threads, then stopped below a chossy looking crack, not the 5+ pitch. We walked left to a large cairn and went up 2 excellent and easy pitches, following threads to the top.
Pitch 1 was hard for 5+ and runout, esp above the tree.. would hurt to fall. Pitch 3 seemed to carry on for 35m ish, following threads, then stopped below a chossy looking crack, not the 5+ pitch. We walked left to a large cairn and went up 2 excellent and easy pitches, following threads to the top.
DannyK ?Sep, 2007 Lead O/S 1st 2 pitches only.
with Katie
1st 2 pitches only.
with Katie
u1jd 7 Jun, 2007 2nd O/S
with Ben
with Ben
andyb211 ?Apr, 2007 -
with Clients
with Clients
steven ?Apr, 2007 2nd
with Charlotte
with Charlotte
Hidden 9 Feb, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 30 Jan, 2007 2nd O/S
Hidden 29 Dec, 2006 Lead
CJE 15 Oct, 2006 AltLd O/S Ines led P1, I led P2
with Ines Clergue
Ines led P1, I led P2
with Ines Clergue
Hidden 12 Dec, 2005 AltLd O/S
cragspud ?Feb, 1998 Lead O/S
steve prior ?Nov, 1995 Lead
with Roz C
with Roz C
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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set