220m, 10 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HVS. A classic expedition which takes the groove to a belay behind the pinnacle and then continues to reach the large cave high up. From here the route escapes leftwards by a spectacular abseil. The route is slightly spoilt by the looseness of the first few pitches. Depending on confidence/ability levels, take a small rack although all the hard sections are geared. Start left of the base of the groove by a large cactus bush.
1) -, 15m. Scramble (loose) to belay left of the base of the groove.
2) 4+, 30m. Climb awkwardly right to the groove, then up to a stance in a chimney.
3) 5, 20m. Continue bridging up the groove to a stance just before a harder section.
4) 5+, 35m. Another pitch up the corner.
5) 4, 30m. Move right onto a slab, then back left and climb up to a three-bolt belay on a jammed block behind the pinnacle.
6) 5+, 25m. Make a long move from the block to access the wall. Climb up into the base of the cave and a belay on the left. The groove to the right gives another option. Do not be tempted to climb up towards the tat visible high in the cave.
7) 8m down. Look round the left Arete to locate some bolts and use these to abseil to a ledge below, swinging slightly left, then move further left to a belay (on Les miserables).
8) 4, 30m. Traverse into the corner and move up to belay.
9) 4+, 35m. Climb the corner to gain the ridge. Easy rock leads from here to the summit. © Rockfax

FA. Luis Riguez, Jose Guerrero, Pedro Oliva 1960s 1965

Ticklists

Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, The Big Easys, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Costa Blanca 25 by 2025, Adventure ticklist 2018

Feedback

UserDateNotes
sheffieldchris 15 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: sorry to go against the flow here but has everyone gone mad.couple of points, do you like thrutching up loose corners using more brawn than style?. do you like scratching your head trying to work out what the hell the guide book means? do you like climbing on smooth soapstone type rock? are you climbing above 5+ (would be a realy good idea)I so have a great day, this route is spectacular from the ground and does put you in some good locations but in my opinion this doesn't make up for the style of climbing needed to get up it. If you just want to get to the top go for via valencianos
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: sorry to go against the flow here but has everyone gone mad.couple of points, do you like thrutching up loose corners using more brawn than style?. do you like scratching your head trying to work out what the hell the guide book means? do you like climbing on smooth soapstone type rock? are you climbing above 5+ (would be a realy good idea)I so have a great day, this route is spectacular from the ground and does put you in some good locations but in my opinion this doesn't make up for the style of climbing needed to get up it. If you just want to get to the top go for via valencianos
will_benfold 12 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Couple of minor corrections to the topos: after pitch six, belay is in the gully leading to the huge cave, not next to the small hole as shown in old topo; topo in new book shows wrong number of stances for first six pitches. Both topos show misleading info for the penultimate pitch (possibly due to perspective of photo): pitch nine is about 8m traversing, then about 12m upwards, belay is behind a large bush/tree. Near the start of the walk-in path, there's a poster showing the most popular routes, including the positions of the belays; this is by far the most accurate topo I've seen for this route. Top quality route though, and at a grade most will be comfortable with.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Couple of minor corrections to the topos: after pitch six, belay is in the gully leading to the huge cave, not next to the small hole as shown in old topo; topo in new book shows wrong number of stances for first six pitches. Both topos show misleading info for the penultimate pitch (possibly due to perspective of photo): pitch nine is about 8m traversing, then about 12m upwards, belay is behind a large bush/tree. Near the start of the walk-in path, there's a poster showing the most popular routes, including the positions of the belays; this is by far the most accurate topo I've seen for this route. Top quality route though, and at a grade most will be comfortable with.
Ramon Marin 8 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Man, the topo on the Rockfax book was very misleading. In this particular route I would have preferred a drawing than a picture. The route is great though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Man, the topo on the Rockfax book was very misleading. In this particular route I would have preferred a drawing than a picture. The route is great though.
brianrunner 16 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Thought pitch 6 was the crux. A well protected move above the pinnacle but then some neckier climbing moving right into the corner. The last balancy move into the chimney felt quite hard and not well protected. Despite first appearances the last 2 pitches are excellent, maintain the standard and are full of surprises! Take a full rack and enjoy a great classic.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thought pitch 6 was the crux. A well protected move above the pinnacle but then some neckier climbing moving right into the corner. The last balancy move into the chimney felt quite hard and not well protected. Despite first appearances the last 2 pitches are excellent, maintain the standard and are full of surprises! Take a full rack and enjoy a great classic.
Oli 12 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Where does the 6a variation on pitch 6 go? straight up some bulges and right next to the small cave?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Where does the 6a variation on pitch 6 go? straight up some bulges and right next to the small cave?
Kyuzo 9 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route, amazing views and great climbing. Watch out on pitch 3 or 4 for the line of shiny new bolts (as Rob mentioned above), I foolishly followed them rather than sticking towards the right hand face (where there isn't really much fixed gear at all). This bolt line starts off deceptively easy, but after a few bolts it gets very hard.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route, amazing views and great climbing. Watch out on pitch 3 or 4 for the line of shiny new bolts (as Rob mentioned above), I foolishly followed them rather than sticking towards the right hand face (where there isn't really much fixed gear at all). This bolt line starts off deceptively easy, but after a few bolts it gets very hard.
Rob Webb 16 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Use the portaloo at the end of the quay before you start, you'll need it! Advise using a prussuk on the absail, it's a bit of a swing left to gain the bolts. Stay low on the traverse after the absail, it's easier. One of the best rock climbs I've done.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Use the portaloo at the end of the quay before you start, you'll need it! Advise using a prussuk on the absail, it's a bit of a swing left to gain the bolts. Stay low on the traverse after the absail, it's easier. One of the best rock climbs I've done.
Gripped 5 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A fantastic route through some very impressive terrain. Wow, the abseil and pendulum!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fantastic route through some very impressive terrain. Wow, the abseil and pendulum!
mdwoolley 29 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed it on Sunday 24th October! *all* of the pitches are really enjoyable though for some reason pitches 2 and 3 really stick in my mind for pure climbing pleasure. The abseil is a tad necky and the ledge you ab down to is a mere pale immitation of a ledge! I thought the traverse felt exposed and under-graded technically, but maybe that's just me. The final pitch has an overhang with a diagonally sloping tunnel up through it. All well and good unless you're wearing a rucksack like me, which means you cannot fit and have to climb over the thing (upping the grade for that pitch imho). Either way, a truly awesome expedition. It took us between 8 and 9 hours wiht a decent break behind the pinnacle and in the cave.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed it on Sunday 24th October! *all* of the pitches are really enjoyable though for some reason pitches 2 and 3 really stick in my mind for pure climbing pleasure. The abseil is a tad necky and the ledge you ab down to is a mere pale immitation of a ledge! I thought the traverse felt exposed and under-graded technically, but maybe that's just me. The final pitch has an overhang with a diagonally sloping tunnel up through it. All well and good unless you're wearing a rucksack like me, which means you cannot fit and have to climb over the thing (upping the grade for that pitch imho). Either way, a truly awesome expedition. It took us between 8 and 9 hours wiht a decent break behind the pinnacle and in the cave.
Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great route with a strong natural line (give or take the slightly weird abseiling palaver), and an adventurous feel. Much of the in-situ gear is ageing. No looser than most mountain routes. The rock type felt a little bit Gogarth-y to me...anyone know what I'm on about?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route with a strong natural line (give or take the slightly weird abseiling palaver), and an adventurous feel. Much of the in-situ gear is ageing. No looser than most mountain routes. The rock type felt a little bit Gogarth-y to me...anyone know what I'm on about?
mdwoolley 1 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I'd be interested to know how long this route took people. I'm planning to climb it in October this year. I'm hoping that 11 hours of daylight will be enough! :) Cheers
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd be interested to know how long this route took people. I'm planning to climb it in October this year. I'm hoping that 11 hours of daylight will be enough! :) Cheers
Colonel Cathcart 29 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. We went up the fist crack to the right of the pinnacle rather than the rounded wall, seemed resonable enough
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. We went up the fist crack to the right of the pinnacle rather than the rounded wall, seemed resonable enough
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 10 Aug AltLd rpt
Michael Iliffe 10 Aug AltLd β My first multipitch (lead 2,4,6,9). Crux pitch (6) to the cave just before the ab down to the ledge (went through the mini roof) felt more like 6b+. Other than that pitch it was easy, a bit runout but fine. Final pitch was very satisfying!
My first multipitch (lead 2,4,6,9). Crux pitch (6) to the cave just before the ab down to the ledge (went through the mini roof) felt more like 6b+. Other than that pitch it was easy, a bit runout but fine. Final pitch was very satisfying!
Julesthe1st 26 May AltLd O/S Had an early start because A) it was a weekend and we wanted to be first on the route, B ) we wanted to complete before the sun came round, and C) we had a flight to catch! A great introduction to the Penon. A fantastic iconic cliff to climb on. Think Dolomites with the added value of a sea view and swooping seagulls. Led all pitches
Had an early start because A) it was a weekend and we wanted to be first on the route, B ) we wanted to complete before the sun came round, and C) we had a flight to catch! A great introduction to the Penon. A fantastic iconic cliff to climb on. Think Dolomites with the added value of a sea view and swooping seagulls. Led all pitches
PilarMartinez 26 May AltLd Good route, bolts but very spaced out. Polish too. I would def recommend a few nuts and friends if you don't like long run outs. We had an early start and were at the last pitch as the sun was coming round. took us about 5 hours and we messed around a bit. The descend is polish to hell. Awful so bring trainers.
Good route, bolts but very spaced out. Polish too. I would def recommend a few nuts and friends if you don't like long run outs. We had an early start and were at the last pitch as the sun was coming round. took us about 5 hours and we messed around a bit. The descend is polish to hell. Awful so bring trainers.
Rib1356 24 Apr AltLd O/S Great route with some class pitches on it, utilising lots of different techniques. Definitely feels like an adventure. Brought a small trad rack which worked out perfect for the amount of gear needed.
with Ian1001
Great route with some class pitches on it, utilising lots of different techniques. Definitely feels like an adventure. Brought a small trad rack which worked out perfect for the amount of gear needed.
with Ian1001
Ian1001 24 Apr AltLd
with Rib1356
with Rib1356
Hidden 9 Apr AltLd
willoates 7 Apr Lead O/S Belter of a route! Climbs through some quality ground! Definitely treat it as an HVS, not 5c.
with Becky Brown
Belter of a route! Climbs through some quality ground! Definitely treat it as an HVS, not 5c.
with Becky Brown
Hidden 5 Apr AltLd
Hidden 4 Apr AltLd O/S
Ginopereira 4 Apr 2nd
janegallwey 4 Apr AltLd O/S
with Dad, Sam Simpson
with Dad, Sam Simpson
Hidden 22 Mar AltLd O/S
mcd0well 22 Mar AltLd O/S Pretty spectacular day out. We took forever and packed way too much gear but didn't really care. Dan led the evens and I done the odds (I got an easy deal I think). Definite crux moving up the crack on the pitch before the rapp, loads of exposure.
with Danliu
Pretty spectacular day out. We took forever and packed way too much gear but didn't really care. Dan led the evens and I done the odds (I got an easy deal I think). Definite crux moving up the crack on the pitch before the rapp, loads of exposure.
with Danliu
Inti 19 Feb Solo O/S
ClimbingAlex 14 Feb AltLd O/S
Matt Magecha 14 Feb AltLd
james1978 3 Feb Lead O/S Lead all pitches.
with Mary
Lead all pitches.
with Mary
joe gallacher 21 Jan - A must do route
A must do route
hfotheri 19 Jan AltLd O/S We got a bit confused with pitch 6 went up to the small cave then thought that was the tat you weren’t meant to go up to, after much faf and down climbing went back up to the small cave and pulled over the roof to finish the pitch. Still a good adventure route!
with simon
We got a bit confused with pitch 6 went up to the small cave then thought that was the tat you weren’t meant to go up to, after much faf and down climbing went back up to the small cave and pulled over the roof to finish the pitch. Still a good adventure route!
with simon
Jay Schofield 3 Jan 2nd
with Luke Weaver
with Luke Weaver
codenamel 3 Jan Lead O/S Everyone seems to talk about the 6th pitch (from the pinnacle). The route leads up to a small cave, though you can make it easier by heading into the gully on the right. I followed the obvious route to the small cave, it was very reasonable, just tread right once you get to the little cave and it feels about right for the grade, though my second didn't agree! Was a brilliant little adventure. We had a great day, to me it's well worth it's too 60 rating.
Everyone seems to talk about the 6th pitch (from the pinnacle). The route leads up to a small cave, though you can make it easier by heading into the gully on the right. I followed the obvious route to the small cave, it was very reasonable, just tread right once you get to the little cave and it feels about right for the grade, though my second didn't agree! Was a brilliant little adventure. We had a great day, to me it's well worth it's too 60 rating.
Hidden 31 Dec, 2018 AltLd
ice bank mice elf 27 Dec, 2018 AltLd
ladempsey 27 Dec, 2018 AltLd Really great day out - spicy enough to stay exciting and consistent difficulty between pitches. First two pitches are not great, but the rest is really enjoyable. Not as polished as we were expecting given the complaints here. We took a light rack (slings!) and some sport draws. Pitch leading up to the cave is a little wild. Run out and not much pro.
Really great day out - spicy enough to stay exciting and consistent difficulty between pitches. First two pitches are not great, but the rest is really enjoyable. Not as polished as we were expecting given the complaints here. We took a light rack (slings!) and some sport draws. Pitch leading up to the cave is a little wild. Run out and not much pro.
steve2006 19 Dec, 2018 Lead O/S It the most interesting top 50 I've climbed in long time... Interesting fifth pitch straight up under the chock stone doesn't feel a 4! But it's very enjoyable. The sixth pitching I followed the bolts into the small-cave with the "tat"(had to abseil off). Description could be improved Reach up to first bolt and then trend right for 4 meters and straight up a beautiful crack!
with Dave
It the most interesting top 50 I've climbed in long time... Interesting fifth pitch straight up under the chock stone doesn't feel a 4! But it's very enjoyable. The sixth pitching I followed the bolts into the small-cave with the "tat"(had to abseil off). Description could be improved Reach up to first bolt and then trend right for 4 meters and straight up a beautiful crack!
with Dave
John Bunney 11 Dec, 2018 AltLd Did with mark and frank .awesome route, like being in the dolomites. If you’re used to mountain routes this isn’t too chosen. More bolts than expected, but take a small rack. The last 5+ pitch is much harder, E1 5bish don’t head to the cave with tat, head diagonally right in to the start on the huge cave. Great fun.
Did with mark and frank .awesome route, like being in the dolomites. If you’re used to mountain routes this isn’t too chosen. More bolts than expected, but take a small rack. The last 5+ pitch is much harder, E1 5bish don’t head to the cave with tat, head diagonally right in to the start on the huge cave. Great fun.
Hidden 27 Nov, 2018 AltLd
Matt Shepherd 27 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
Stroppy 24 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S Did not disappoint. Good bolted belays but feels more like trad.
Did not disappoint. Good bolted belays but feels more like trad.
TeenageMutantClimbingTurtle 24 Nov, 2018 2nd big day!
with Stroppy
big day!
with Stroppy
robint12 21 Nov, 2018 -
with Chris Craven
with Chris Craven
mountaingoatgirl 13 Nov, 2018 AltLd Alternate leads, Noddy odds and the evens for me, took the more obvious line on P6 that was a little harder. Loved having to absail down on P7 and the traverse, it added a real sence of adventure. Last pitch climbed with a head torch. Lovely decent to finish. Best route on the climbing holiday.
with Noddy
Alternate leads, Noddy odds and the evens for me, took the more obvious line on P6 that was a little harder. Loved having to absail down on P7 and the traverse, it added a real sence of adventure. Last pitch climbed with a head torch. Lovely decent to finish. Best route on the climbing holiday.
with Noddy
Davidchatterton 13 Nov, 2018 AltLd dnf
with heyhoot
with heyhoot
buxtoncoffeelover 13 Nov, 2018 AltLd Gareth led odds & I led evens. Strayed off route a little on P6 (direct past small cave at 6a). Started late & finished at sunset. Rosie & Noddy still had 2 pitches to do!! Lovely descent walk in the dark. Excellent day
Gareth led odds & I led evens. Strayed off route a little on P6 (direct past small cave at 6a). Started late & finished at sunset. Rosie & Noddy still had 2 pitches to do!! Lovely descent walk in the dark. Excellent day
Hidden 13 Nov, 2018 AltLd
Tarquin 8 Nov, 2018 - Lard Boy had to take off his rucsac forthe last pitch. Lou didn’t...
with Louvet
Lard Boy had to take off his rucsac forthe last pitch. Lou didn’t...
with Louvet
Louvet 8 Nov, 2018 -
with Tarquin
with Tarquin
jpc1 29 Oct, 2018 AltLd Excellent route. First couple of pitches are steep, a bit loose and a bit intimidating with some polished holds. Less polished at height and steady climbing with nothing too difficult. First on route and climbed in a steady 5 hours. Proper adventure!
Excellent route. First couple of pitches are steep, a bit loose and a bit intimidating with some polished holds. Less polished at height and steady climbing with nothing too difficult. First on route and climbed in a steady 5 hours. Proper adventure!
Jack Manfredi 29 Oct, 2018 AltLd
with Dad
with Dad
Hidden 29 Oct, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 18 Oct, 2018 2nd
dmorgan27 15 Oct, 2018 AltLd Fantastic route. Great stances. Polished but still good. Completed in 3 hours and then headed to Mascarat gorge. Hard pitch getting into cave. Traverse after the abseil is superb.
Fantastic route. Great stances. Polished but still good. Completed in 3 hours and then headed to Mascarat gorge. Hard pitch getting into cave. Traverse after the abseil is superb.
gingernick 15 Oct, 2018 AltLd
caparros 13 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
mkbk93 6 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
Allterraindude 2 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Phil
with Phil
dicky79 9 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
ads 9 Mar, 2018 AltLd
Jdoc 7 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S chossy polished run out mess of dangerous large blocks with little good climbing. Do one of the other routes instead.
chossy polished run out mess of dangerous large blocks with little good climbing. Do one of the other routes instead.
edwarddhmckee3 7 Mar, 2018 2nd O/S
Southall4000 6 Mar, 2018 2nd
with smudge
with smudge
smudge 6 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
with Dave Mckee, Ed McKee, Southall4000
with Dave Mckee, Ed McKee, Southall4000
thelightside 23 Jan, 2018 2nd
Steve Woollard 16 Jan, 2018 AltLd
with Rich
with Rich
Neverathome 10 Jan, 2018 AltLd
with Mick Bailes
with Mick Bailes
Hidden 27 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 27 Dec, 2017 AltLd
with j_duds
with j_duds
Octavian 26 Dec, 2017 AltLd
Tom265 20 Dec, 2017 2nd O/S
Megan.richardson1 20 Dec, 2017 2nd O/S
Stanners 20 Dec, 2017 Lead O/S all led! what a memorable long day of outragous punterness! Benighted as a team of 4 armed with one torch and a baguette. had a few moments on this, classic "it'll probably be alright attitude". Legendary! Defo a trad route which annoyed me a lot as I couldn't be bothered with all the serious run outs.
with Tom Bates, Ali C, Megan.richardson1
all led! what a memorable long day of outragous punterness! Benighted as a team of 4 armed with one torch and a baguette. had a few moments on this, classic "it'll probably be alright attitude". Legendary! Defo a trad route which annoyed me a lot as I couldn't be bothered with all the serious run outs.
with Tom Bates, Ali C, Megan.richardson1
swmackey 3 Dec, 2017 Lead O/S
dmorgan27 28 Nov, 2017 Lead Did first two pitches but was too hard for Clive and Terryl. One ab to floor. Second pitch is amazing although hard for 4+
with Terryl
Did first two pitches but was too hard for Clive and Terryl. One ab to floor. Second pitch is amazing although hard for 4+
with Terryl
Jamie Skelton 27 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
morageagleson 27 Nov, 2017 2nd dog Very polished!!
Very polished!!
DanC1985 25 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
topsyturvy 21 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
with Pero
with Pero
Paul Hy 21 Nov, 2017 AltLd dnf It got too hot too quickly so bailed from top P1.
It got too hot too quickly so bailed from top P1.
Pero 21 Nov, 2017 AltLd Led even pitches. Excellent sustained climbing. Most pitches would be 5 or 5+ in my book. Pitches 2 and 9 are quite tasty for 4+.
Led even pitches. Excellent sustained climbing. Most pitches would be 5 or 5+ in my book. Pitches 2 and 9 are quite tasty for 4+.
Hidden 29 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S
Amy121 29 Oct, 2017 Lead
Hidden 29 Oct, 2017 AltLd
TommyKips 20 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S Solo p1, Alt lead p2,4,6,7,8
Solo p1, Alt lead p2,4,6,7,8
Jonny Crean 14 Oct, 2017 AltLd
emma1987 19 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Done as Trad - HVS
with lukey13
Done as Trad - HVS
with lukey13
Hidden 19 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
Mike Weatherill 6 Mar, 2017 AltLd Great way to celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary :) x
with Vicky Weatherill
Great way to celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary :) x
with Vicky Weatherill
Hidden 27 Feb, 2017 2nd
Jack00 20 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S Led all pitches except top scramble to the summit.
with Fran, Rob, Kathryn
Led all pitches except top scramble to the summit.
with Fran, Rob, Kathryn
td72 14 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S Good route, amazing position! don't really need trad gear. Took about 3 hours.
with katie93
Good route, amazing position! don't really need trad gear. Took about 3 hours.
with katie93
katie93 14 Feb, 2017 2nd O/S
with td72
with td72
Mark Eddy 8 Feb, 2017 Lead 1st & 2nd pitches are horribly loose, we almost bailed. But so glad we didn't as the rest of it is brilliant, with so much variety. The big chimney pitch felt precarious due to all the big blocks in there. The wall above this was great fun and quite tough, we ended up in the small cave (where all the tat is) then had a tricky move right to exit, this was exciting but safe. The abseil from the cave requires careful rope work and some forward planning as the belay is quite far over to the left (looking in). The final 2 pitches gave yet more fun, especially exiting from the final groove that is overhanging. Yes there's a lot of polish on it, but this eases with height, so don't be put off by the initial pitches. A grand day out.
with KateA
1st & 2nd pitches are horribly loose, we almost bailed. But so glad we didn't as the rest of it is brilliant, with so much variety. The big chimney pitch felt precarious due to all the big blocks in there. The wall above this was great fun and quite tough, we ended up in the small cave (where all the tat is) then had a tricky move right to exit, this was exciting but safe. The abseil from the cave requires careful rope work and some forward planning as the belay is quite far over to the left (looking in). The final 2 pitches gave yet more fun, especially exiting from the final groove that is overhanging. Yes there's a lot of polish on it, but this eases with height, so don't be put off by the initial pitches. A grand day out.
with KateA
Hidden 8 Feb, 2017 2nd
Andy J Collins ?Feb, 2017 -
with Rich Mayfield
with Rich Mayfield
Andy J Collins ?Feb, 2017 -
with Rich Mayfield
with Rich Mayfield
razzle 10 Jan, 2017 AltLd Led 2nd, 5th, 9th pitches. TC led other pitches.
with TeddyC
Led 2nd, 5th, 9th pitches. TC led other pitches.
with TeddyC
Hidden 8 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S
Katherine Ross 6 Jan, 2017 2nd O/S Fantastic route and pretty wild in places! Fairly continuously steep and a bit polished in places. Also, pitch 9 as described here might prove challenging for the large!
Fantastic route and pretty wild in places! Fairly continuously steep and a bit polished in places. Also, pitch 9 as described here might prove challenging for the large!
Aminious 2 Jan, 2017 AltLd
with Jonny livesey
with Jonny livesey
Kdk9788 2 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S Led pitches 3, 5, 7 and 9. Excellent climb!
Led pitches 3, 5, 7 and 9. Excellent climb!
metrorat 2 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S Great climb, perfect conditions
with Amy Wight
Great climb, perfect conditions
with Amy Wight
miguelporelmundo ??, 2017 -
Robs_Uren 22 Dec, 2016 AltLd RP
Phil 21 Dec, 2016 Lead dnf Lead until pitch 6 where we bailed off in the dark (oh the joys). Set off late, got held up mid route and ran out of light. Shame; would liked to have finished.
Lead until pitch 6 where we bailed off in the dark (oh the joys). Set off late, got held up mid route and ran out of light. Shame; would liked to have finished.
Hidden ?Dec, 2016 Lead
MartinW92 ?Dec, 2016 Lead dnf Only managed pitches 1-5, climbed into tat in cave and bailed as sunlight was against us (2 pairs ascent)
Only managed pitches 1-5, climbed into tat in cave and bailed as sunlight was against us (2 pairs ascent)
the power 24 Nov, 2016 AltLd Radical
with Ardo
Radical
with Ardo
Ardo 24 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S Well cool. P2, P4, P6, P9 - Me. T'others the Power.
Well cool. P2, P4, P6, P9 - Me. T'others the Power.
mjeffery 16 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
BushwackerBritz ?Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Thom Wright
with Thom Wright
josefft 31 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Soloed Pitch 1, led pitches 3, 5, 8. As others have mentioned, Rockfax description for pitch 6 is very ambiguous. We ended up going right of the cave in the end, some Spanish guys behind us seemed to traverse right over the the groove. Epic route though, could be done as a sport route if you have the head for run outs as the bolts are very sparse, worth taking a small rack to plug the gaps though.
with Arjun Menon
Soloed Pitch 1, led pitches 3, 5, 8. As others have mentioned, Rockfax description for pitch 6 is very ambiguous. We ended up going right of the cave in the end, some Spanish guys behind us seemed to traverse right over the the groove. Epic route though, could be done as a sport route if you have the head for run outs as the bolts are very sparse, worth taking a small rack to plug the gaps though.
with Arjun Menon
bobstones 14 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with Ed Wigmore
with Ed Wigmore
Juan S 14 Oct, 2016 Lead Ah, you meant this *was* the cave I wasn't meant to end up in? Uhps... Not sure this deserves top 50. The bottom half isn't anything to write home about. Chossy MacChossy Choss.
with Wei
Ah, you meant this *was* the cave I wasn't meant to end up in? Uhps... Not sure this deserves top 50. The bottom half isn't anything to write home about. Chossy MacChossy Choss.
with Wei
Benjaminblanc 30 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S What an adventure! Totally hungover and in the blistering heat, started out at midday. The Description on here is excellent, we however had the old guide and were completely tempted by the tat above the cave which added a spicy, loose, scary pitch to a higher abseil. If you are not solid on run-out, intimidating trad arounnd E1 then avoid, there are no bolts! Totally dehydrated by the abseil and loseing enthusiasm fast but had a wild fun amazing time on this route. Just be aware that this route has some seriously big loose blocks on many pitches. At the crux on the first 5+ pitch there is a massive block ready to go. Nice work Seema for leading that pitch! Perhaps an early night and an alpine start next time :)
with Seema
What an adventure! Totally hungover and in the blistering heat, started out at midday. The Description on here is excellent, we however had the old guide and were completely tempted by the tat above the cave which added a spicy, loose, scary pitch to a higher abseil. If you are not solid on run-out, intimidating trad arounnd E1 then avoid, there are no bolts! Totally dehydrated by the abseil and loseing enthusiasm fast but had a wild fun amazing time on this route. Just be aware that this route has some seriously big loose blocks on many pitches. At the crux on the first 5+ pitch there is a massive block ready to go. Nice work Seema for leading that pitch! Perhaps an early night and an alpine start next time :)
with Seema
Nigel Bond 3 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Colin Hutton
with Colin Hutton
saz_b 1 May, 2016 Lead O/S Spectacular climbing, pitch after pitch of good or great climbing. The scramble set the adventure nature...p4 +5 in one as getting warm and belayed in shade of pinnacle. Went to lower hole in p5, threads and then runout to top. Climbing never gave up on final pitches. Great day out!
with Stephane
Spectacular climbing, pitch after pitch of good or great climbing. The scramble set the adventure nature...p4 +5 in one as getting warm and belayed in shade of pinnacle. Went to lower hole in p5, threads and then runout to top. Climbing never gave up on final pitches. Great day out!
with Stephane
Luis SD 15 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Apr, 2016 AltLd
Gary K Duke 12 Apr, 2016 2nd dog
Chriswallis2 4 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Heather UKC
with Heather UKC
readymaker 24 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S excellent climbing with breathtaking views. there was a rope at the abseil anchor, but only in one(!) anchor, so we had to belay while abseiling. beware of the birds! ;-)
excellent climbing with breathtaking views. there was a rope at the abseil anchor, but only in one(!) anchor, so we had to belay while abseiling. beware of the birds! ;-)
alastairbegley 23 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Great route. Took us 6 hours. http://mp-m.uk/CGJWR
Great route. Took us 6 hours. http://mp-m.uk/CGJWR
gingerbex 23 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
eduardo 20 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Great route. Lots of cats on the top!
with Mark H
Great route. Lots of cats on the top!
with Mark H
philhilo 20 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Excellent route for experienced and solid at the grade folk.
with heg
Excellent route for experienced and solid at the grade folk.
with heg
gav 8 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S P1,2,4,6,9. Had the whole wall to ourselves, starting at 9.20 and topping out at 14.00. Despite knowing that the small cave was the wrong place to go, still ended up in there. IMO, this is because the line is non-obvious and the guidebook no help at all - referring only to that tat at the end of the passage and only mentioning one cave. As you pull onto the wall, above (~10m farther up?) is a small, person-sized, cave. The easy holds lead up to it stepping slightly right. On the right edge of the cave is a thread (currently with tat), and at the top of it a rusty bolt (with more tat). The easiest route (?) is to climb up to the bottom of this cave, clip the lower thread (extend), then traverse improbably right from here, level with the bottom of the cave, to the right, pulling into the top of the right hand chimney/bottom of the massive cave. From here it's an easy scramble to the belay. The second to last (F4) pitch also climbs much farther up the corner that the topo diagram suggests. The pitch length is about right at ~30m, so just keep going.
with dknibb
P1,2,4,6,9. Had the whole wall to ourselves, starting at 9.20 and topping out at 14.00. Despite knowing that the small cave was the wrong place to go, still ended up in there. IMO, this is because the line is non-obvious and the guidebook no help at all - referring only to that tat at the end of the passage and only mentioning one cave. As you pull onto the wall, above (~10m farther up?) is a small, person-sized, cave. The easy holds lead up to it stepping slightly right. On the right edge of the cave is a thread (currently with tat), and at the top of it a rusty bolt (with more tat). The easiest route (?) is to climb up to the bottom of this cave, clip the lower thread (extend), then traverse improbably right from here, level with the bottom of the cave, to the right, pulling into the top of the right hand chimney/bottom of the massive cave. From here it's an easy scramble to the belay. The second to last (F4) pitch also climbs much farther up the corner that the topo diagram suggests. The pitch length is about right at ~30m, so just keep going.
with dknibb
dknibb 8 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Led pitch 3, 5, and 8. Good fun and saw no other Climbers all day! Enjoyable abseil mid way up though felt strange to be traversing off the same anchor.
with gav
Led pitch 3, 5, and 8. Good fun and saw no other Climbers all day! Enjoyable abseil mid way up though felt strange to be traversing off the same anchor.
with gav
Hidden 3 Mar, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 25 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
carlh 21 Feb, 2016 AltLd rpt
Small and weak ?Feb, 2016 AltLd
Mick r 18 Jan, 2016 AltLd rpt Great route. Lead pitch 3,5 and 8(last pitch). 5 hours
Great route. Lead pitch 3,5 and 8(last pitch). 5 hours
Martin Haworth 18 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S A brilliant route, perfect weather, 5 hours.
with Mick r
A brilliant route, perfect weather, 5 hours.
with Mick r
judith neaves 3 Jan, 2016 2nd
jon_gill1 3 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S P1 solo,p2 me,p3 cl,p4 rg,p5 cl,p6 me,p7 me,p8 cl,p9 rg. Solo ridge to the top.fantastic day out!
with ross garfoot, chris Lyness
P1 solo,p2 me,p3 cl,p4 rg,p5 cl,p6 me,p7 me,p8 cl,p9 rg. Solo ridge to the top.fantastic day out!
with ross garfoot, chris Lyness
jon_gill1 3 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S P1 solo,p2 me,p3 cl,p4 rg,p5 cl,p6 me,p7 me,p8 cl,p9 rg. Solo ridge to the top.fantastic day out!
with ross garfoot, chris Lyness
P1 solo,p2 me,p3 cl,p4 rg,p5 cl,p6 me,p7 me,p8 cl,p9 rg. Solo ridge to the top.fantastic day out!
with ross garfoot, chris Lyness
Shaw Brown 3 Jan, 2016 Lead Did the direct version of pitch 6, felt about 6a+. Though a bit out of character with the rest of the route it is a great variation.
Did the direct version of pitch 6, felt about 6a+. Though a bit out of character with the rest of the route it is a great variation.
PAJames ??, 2016 -
walts4 ??, 2016 -
Rachel S 31 Dec, 2015 Lead O/S
BernNolan 31 Dec, 2015 TR dog
Hidden 29 Dec, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 29 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S
Darren Vincent 23 Dec, 2015 AltLd dnf Backed off after 2nd pitch. Polished!
with Lucy
Backed off after 2nd pitch. Polished!
with Lucy
pearson9596 14 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Kat G-B, onlyfoddington
with Kat G-B, onlyfoddington
KittyKat 14 Dec, 2015 AltLd It said "don't get tempted to go into the cave" for a good reason....Lead P4 and P8
with Michael Pearson, Dave Brock
It said "don't get tempted to go into the cave" for a good reason....Lead P4 and P8
with Michael Pearson, Dave Brock
Hidden 14 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S
onlyfoddington 14 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S I was very wobbly on my first pitch (5) and then much more confident on my second pitch (5+). I subsequently realise I went off route, into the cave, and made a good effort to get out again, which proved to be unnecessary. Lovely place to climb.
I was very wobbly on my first pitch (5) and then much more confident on my second pitch (5+). I subsequently realise I went off route, into the cave, and made a good effort to get out again, which proved to be unnecessary. Lovely place to climb.
Hidden 9 Dec, 2015 Lead dnf
louisnewman 30 Nov, 2015 AltLd
Zoomer 26 Nov, 2015 AltLd dnf Bailed off after the first two pitches, stuck behind a very slow team who appeared incapable of building a sound belay....on bolts, scary stuff.
with A Student
Bailed off after the first two pitches, stuck behind a very slow team who appeared incapable of building a sound belay....on bolts, scary stuff.
with A Student
Big_T 25 Nov, 2015 2nd O/S
superturbo 20 Nov, 2015 AltLd
guy127917 18 Nov, 2015 AltLd
csd23 22 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Martin
with Martin
Paul Hy 15 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S Lead every pitch. Awesome, Say no more!
with Gary C
Lead every pitch. Awesome, Say no more!
with Gary C
Garnham 15 Oct, 2015 AltLd
MoWalker3 5 Oct, 2015 - Derek being hit by lumbago on 1st pitch, with his 72 years of experience decided to pushed on. Brilliant. Sorry for the small cave variation pitch!
with Derek Carter
Derek being hit by lumbago on 1st pitch, with his 72 years of experience decided to pushed on. Brilliant. Sorry for the small cave variation pitch!
with Derek Carter
mikestr555 30 Apr, 2015 AltLd lead pitches 2,4,6,9
lead pitches 2,4,6,9
barn owl 22 Apr, 2015 AltLd
with simon Rackley
with simon Rackley
barn owl 21 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
with simon Rackley
with simon Rackley
mark4344 13 Apr, 2015 AltLd rpt Attacked and shat on by seagulls on walk in and first pitch.
with derek
Attacked and shat on by seagulls on walk in and first pitch.
with derek
Hidden 10 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
Simon Rackley ?Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
with andy barnes
with andy barnes
Sam2257 30 Mar, 2015 AltLd dog A mini epic! started way too late in day plus some poor route finding meant we finished in the dark via the wrong route. lead p1,3,5,6,8 & 9 (p8 & 9 CM). 1st 5 pitches straight forward if a little polished and runout - definitely need a bit of trad gear. made a poor decision at start of p6 to traverse into the chossy chimney to the right instead of going straight up as start of p6 was so polished and sweaty in the sun - ended up with horrible rope drag! p7 abseil took longer than needed, then could not find the start of p8 so instead took the unknown line of bolts straight up (turned out to be the excellent Costa Miserables 6b+, two superb pitches of climbing). topped out in the dark to the sound of feral cats. marvellous.
A mini epic! started way too late in day plus some poor route finding meant we finished in the dark via the wrong route. lead p1,3,5,6,8 & 9 (p8 & 9 CM). 1st 5 pitches straight forward if a little polished and runout - definitely need a bit of trad gear. made a poor decision at start of p6 to traverse into the chossy chimney to the right instead of going straight up as start of p6 was so polished and sweaty in the sun - ended up with horrible rope drag! p7 abseil took longer than needed, then could not find the start of p8 so instead took the unknown line of bolts straight up (turned out to be the excellent Costa Miserables 6b+, two superb pitches of climbing). topped out in the dark to the sound of feral cats. marvellous.
darrenpp 30 Mar, 2015 AltLd
Scott Quinn 27 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S
Tom.Priestley 25 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Came to do Costa Blanca but another team was on it so we did this instead. Took a couple of pebbles in our pockets as we had no trad gear. A few decent runouts but otherwise ok. Polished.
Came to do Costa Blanca but another team was on it so we did this instead. Took a couple of pebbles in our pockets as we had no trad gear. A few decent runouts but otherwise ok. Polished.
duzinga 13 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Went up to the tat in the small cave, the climbing seemed cleaner and more enjoyable that way.
Went up to the tat in the small cave, the climbing seemed cleaner and more enjoyable that way.
martintv 13 Mar, 2015 2nd dog
with duzinga
with duzinga
UnkArl 6 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S P1, 3, 5, 6, 8, 9 me P2, 4, 7 - Bill Start of scramble 08:37am Start of route 09:03am Top out 15:50pm As others have commented, the wording for Pitch6 is ambiguous. It should read more like: "6) 5+, 25m. Make a long move from the block to access the wall. Do not be tempted to climb up towards the tat visible high in the SMALL cave. Follow the bolts up and slightly right then head right into the groove. Climb up into the base of the LARGE cave and a belay on the left." If you do end up at the tat in the small cave then exiting it left and up and then back right into the large cave is more like f6b.
with Uncle Bill, Connorsgrandad
P1, 3, 5, 6, 8, 9 me P2, 4, 7 - Bill Start of scramble 08:37am Start of route 09:03am Top out 15:50pm As others have commented, the wording for Pitch6 is ambiguous. It should read more like: "6) 5+, 25m. Make a long move from the block to access the wall. Do not be tempted to climb up towards the tat visible high in the SMALL cave. Follow the bolts up and slightly right then head right into the groove. Climb up into the base of the LARGE cave and a belay on the left." If you do end up at the tat in the small cave then exiting it left and up and then back right into the large cave is more like f6b.
with Uncle Bill, Connorsgrandad
Hidden 21 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
mes32 12 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S Brilliant! Led pitches 2/3/4/6/9 (4+/5/5+/5+/4+). Steep and sustained, hard for HVS, very polished, medium cams needed. The guidebook description for pitch 6 is ambiguous - it talks about the belay cave, then in the very next sentence says 'don't climb to the tat visible high in the cave'. This is NOT referring to the belay cave, but in fact to a completely different smaller cave on the actual pitch. Clearly everyone does end up there so the description needs re-wording - exiting the cave at the tat was pretty hard (?6b). Great route though!
with Sally
Brilliant! Led pitches 2/3/4/6/9 (4+/5/5+/5+/4+). Steep and sustained, hard for HVS, very polished, medium cams needed. The guidebook description for pitch 6 is ambiguous - it talks about the belay cave, then in the very next sentence says 'don't climb to the tat visible high in the cave'. This is NOT referring to the belay cave, but in fact to a completely different smaller cave on the actual pitch. Clearly everyone does end up there so the description needs re-wording - exiting the cave at the tat was pretty hard (?6b). Great route though!
with Sally
Hidden 28 Dec, 2014 2nd
Peter Metcalfe 28 Dec, 2014 Lead
tompilgrem 27 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
bobpilgrem 27 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S Great Route.
with Tom
Great Route.
with Tom
Hidden 24 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
bryan p 19 Dec, 2014 -
with James
with James
alpinismo.uk 10 Dec, 2014 AltLd
therat 2 Dec, 2014 AltLd
JoelO ?Dec, 2014 Lead O/S
with Anne
with Anne
scottyskier82 2 Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S Amazing day out! Great views and a brilliant cave for having lunch
with Ben Brierley
Amazing day out! Great views and a brilliant cave for having lunch
with Ben Brierley
Braintax ?Nov, 2014 AltLd Interesting climbing at the grade... Messed around on the approach to the (big) cave, didn't climb up to the small cave below (with tat) and moved right into chimney - doesn't feel right but goes and I think that's how it should be done. Take some nuts, particularly if not comfortable at the grade.
Interesting climbing at the grade... Messed around on the approach to the (big) cave, didn't climb up to the small cave below (with tat) and moved right into chimney - doesn't feel right but goes and I think that's how it should be done. Take some nuts, particularly if not comfortable at the grade.
bensimons ?Nov, 2014 AltLd dog
shaunnorfolk ?Nov, 2014 AltLd β
Hidden 16 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
nb148 16 Oct, 2014 AltLd Found the route a little difficult to follow due to lack of bolts. Easy but extremely polished climbing, not many bolts at all so recommend taking a set of nuts, maybe a cam or two. Struggled on the abseil as you can't see where you're descending to, plus a sketchy traverse along a sloping ledge to the next bolts. We waited for another pair to descend first so we knew where to go. All in all with the hanging around took 9.5 hours, 9:00-18:30
with Kim Caldwell
Found the route a little difficult to follow due to lack of bolts. Easy but extremely polished climbing, not many bolts at all so recommend taking a set of nuts, maybe a cam or two. Struggled on the abseil as you can't see where you're descending to, plus a sketchy traverse along a sloping ledge to the next bolts. We waited for another pair to descend first so we knew where to go. All in all with the hanging around took 9.5 hours, 9:00-18:30
with Kim Caldwell
Hidden 4 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
carlh 2 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S A truely fantastic route. Climbed with John Makin. Every pitch is interesting and enjoyable and was thankfully in the shade for the most part. We were going off the old Rockfax guidebook (which gives some confusing info from the cave) We climbed up 25m to what I imagine is the old belay, before abseiling down to the ledge below. This was the only chossy pitch and if I was to do it again I would just abseil the 8 meters from the cave (as described in the new guide book). Nice to get an additional pitch in though! Other than this, we didn't find the route finding difficult and didn't find it very polished. We carried a small rack, which was more than adequate. One of the most enjoyable routes that I have climbed in Spain and one that I will definitely repeat!
A truely fantastic route. Climbed with John Makin. Every pitch is interesting and enjoyable and was thankfully in the shade for the most part. We were going off the old Rockfax guidebook (which gives some confusing info from the cave) We climbed up 25m to what I imagine is the old belay, before abseiling down to the ledge below. This was the only chossy pitch and if I was to do it again I would just abseil the 8 meters from the cave (as described in the new guide book). Nice to get an additional pitch in though! Other than this, we didn't find the route finding difficult and didn't find it very polished. We carried a small rack, which was more than adequate. One of the most enjoyable routes that I have climbed in Spain and one that I will definitely repeat!
gdjcoleman ?Oct, 2014 Lead Lead every pitch with the 6a variation through the small cave
with Joe begley, Simon
Lead every pitch with the 6a variation through the small cave
with Joe begley, Simon
HP9 29 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Quite polished and exposed in places
with Mark Hayes
Quite polished and exposed in places
with Mark Hayes
leeds_belle 20 May, 2014 AltLd Lead P2 & P4 as described in the Rockfax guide. Tried to lead P6 but made the fatal mistake of heading for the bit of tat in the cave. Should have traversed right much earlier.
Lead P2 & P4 as described in the Rockfax guide. Tried to lead P6 but made the fatal mistake of heading for the bit of tat in the cave. Should have traversed right much earlier.
Hidden 23 Apr, 2014 2nd dnf
Hidden 16 Apr, 2014 AltLd
s.scott 16 Apr, 2014 AltLd Climbed with neuromancer, got lost and finished up Los Miserables
Climbed with neuromancer, got lost and finished up Los Miserables
mikestr555 27 Mar, 2014 AltLd group of 5 one three and a two lead pitch 4 finished at top of pitch 5 run out of day light pitch two was very hard for a 4+
group of 5 one three and a two lead pitch 4 finished at top of pitch 5 run out of day light pitch two was very hard for a 4+
Private Flounder 12 Feb, 2014 AltLd
Chris Manasseh 12 Feb, 2014 AltLd Led pp 2,4,6+9
Led pp 2,4,6+9
mathematically safe 6 Feb, 2014 -
Justin T 20 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S Overrated imho, I particularly disliked the run out pitch of chimney swimming up fridge sized blocks that may or may not be held in with mud. May be easy climbing but lots of potential for things to go badly wrong.
Overrated imho, I particularly disliked the run out pitch of chimney swimming up fridge sized blocks that may or may not be held in with mud. May be easy climbing but lots of potential for things to go badly wrong.
saaruli 24 Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S
with erik..
with erik..
Hidden 24 Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S
John Pickles 18 Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S
with 8848
with 8848
John Pickles 18 Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S
with 8848
with 8848
Hidden 18 Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Dec, 2013 Lead
jcooper8 12 Dec, 2013 Lead O/S
Powney 5 Dec, 2013 2nd dnf
with withey
with withey
Hidden ?Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S
birks3746 ?Dec, 2013 AltLd Everything that could go wrong...oh well, epics make the best stories
with Alice Browne
Everything that could go wrong...oh well, epics make the best stories
with Alice Browne
adamsandy1 29 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S Multi Pitch
Multi Pitch
Tom Phillips 25 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S superb - quite polished in places, but still a classic!
superb - quite polished in places, but still a classic!
Leofallon 25 Nov, 2013 AltLd Easy enough climbing, very airy [and polished] in places, particularly the abseil. Delighted we did it after so many shorter climbs on Costa Blanca
Easy enough climbing, very airy [and polished] in places, particularly the abseil. Delighted we did it after so many shorter climbs on Costa Blanca
HappyTrundler 22 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S Fantastic day out, although was up it in less than 6 hours. Could get away without taking any wires, there is enough fixed gear, at most half a dozen medium to large wires would suffice. One thing, wear some comfortable all day rock shoes. Superb adventure.
with Irish Pete
Fantastic day out, although was up it in less than 6 hours. Could get away without taking any wires, there is enough fixed gear, at most half a dozen medium to large wires would suffice. One thing, wear some comfortable all day rock shoes. Superb adventure.
with Irish Pete
Hidden 18 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
Caroline 2010 6 Nov, 2013 AltLd dnf Got half way up the second pitch, hard within the grade, could have done with a bit of extra trad gear.
Got half way up the second pitch, hard within the grade, could have done with a bit of extra trad gear.
ElBarto 6 Nov, 2013 2nd O/S Partner was having real problems leading the first two pitches so we backed off before completing pitch two due to lost time. I seconded pitch one and lead half of pitch two after Caroline backed off to retrieve my gear, left a shackle on the second built I think.
Partner was having real problems leading the first two pitches so we backed off before completing pitch two due to lost time. I seconded pitch one and lead half of pitch two after Caroline backed off to retrieve my gear, left a shackle on the second built I think.
martin one 6 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S great route
with Lucy
great route
with Lucy
Wildstyle 6 Nov, 2013 AltLd dog lead the first and final pitch, found everything in between hard. Lots of pulling up on your arms.
lead the first and final pitch, found everything in between hard. Lots of pulling up on your arms.
Hidden 26 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
Gwin 26 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S
with Thomas Hansford
with Thomas Hansford
2010_graham 22 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
How easy 21 Oct, 2013 AltLd With mike and mark and the whole crag to ourselves
With mike and mark and the whole crag to ourselves
TwoChimes 21 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Davy H
with Davy H
stonemikey 21 Oct, 2013 AltLd Absolute classic. Climbed as a group of three in 7.5 hours, with the entire crag to ourselves. Climbing is consistently good throughout, well worth 3* in my opinion.
with How easy, Mark Ward
Absolute classic. Climbed as a group of three in 7.5 hours, with the entire crag to ourselves. Climbing is consistently good throughout, well worth 3* in my opinion.
with How easy, Mark Ward
Hidden 7 Oct, 2013 2nd
DrJon 7 May, 2013 2nd O/S
with Henry, John
with Henry, John
Hidden 6 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2013 AltLd
gsavell 15 Mar, 2013 Lead dnf Found pitch 2 a little too scary with spaced bolts. Used lots of gear to get almost to the top but bottled out and abbed off... maybe next year!
Found pitch 2 a little too scary with spaced bolts. Used lots of gear to get almost to the top but bottled out and abbed off... maybe next year!
Stone Muppet 14 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
with jg, md
with jg, md
Binder 9 Jan, 2013 AltLd dnf Abbed off top of p2. Looks awesome.
with Dave J
Abbed off top of p2. Looks awesome.
with Dave J
andybroadway 28 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Heike
with Heike
andrew549 19 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Pos
with Pos
RKirke 18 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S
josh Bamsey 18 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S
TiffTiff 18 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Jo Davison
with Jo Davison
mikespooner 16 Dec, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 16 Dec, 2012 AltLd
Jonathan Emett 13 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead 2,4,9. Every pitch really good, I preferred this to Costa Blanca.
with orange sam
Lead 2,4,9. Every pitch really good, I preferred this to Costa Blanca.
with orange sam
Bisteris 14 Nov, 2012 2nd O/S
with Andy Newton
with Andy Newton
Marti999 5 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S Great adventure. Every belay has new double ring bolts now.
Great adventure. Every belay has new double ring bolts now.
debbie roberts 5 Nov, 2012 2nd
ollienwood1 4 Nov, 2012 -
ollienwood1 2 Nov, 2012 -
chris smith 31 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
Jim Brownlow 24 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
Rampikino 12 Apr, 2012 Lead Just over 6 hours. Good climbing.
with Cat
Just over 6 hours. Good climbing.
with Cat
Hidden 11 Apr, 2012 AltLd dnf
Hidden 11 Apr, 2012 AltLd dnf
Mario Grabinski 11 Apr, 2012 AltLd
with Allan Gil
with Allan Gil
Hidden 2 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
Lev 2 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Emma
with Emma
jon clayton ?Apr, 2012 AltLd
with sasha
with sasha
richsmithinbristol ?Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S No trad gear used
No trad gear used
cheeky 23 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Awesome
with Dale Knox
Awesome
with Dale Knox
Richard P Coates 16 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Soloed pitch 1, lead pitches 4, 6, 10
Soloed pitch 1, lead pitches 4, 6, 10
elCapitano 16 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Good route. Well bolted as only run out on easy sections. Rack not necessary if confident at the grade. Great intro to Penon. 4 hours.
Good route. Well bolted as only run out on easy sections. Rack not necessary if confident at the grade. Great intro to Penon. 4 hours.
Steve Waters, Mynydd 13 Feb, 2012 AltLd Very cold morning so snoozed amongst the cacti beneath the route until the sun came round. Nobody else around. Took a rack of nuts 3-11 plus a couple of hexs and a few slings and glad of them. Led P1,3,5,8 and 10. (Mike strung P6&7 together). Highlights were the start of P3 (bolted, thankfully), the last section of P4 (an exciting wake-up call for what was to come), all of P6 (especially the reachy moves up to the bolt from the jammed block and most of P9 and 10. Made a meal of the abseil which didn't turn out to be as difficult as it looked - make sure the first one down has a means of locking off the abseil (e.g. prusik) but it all came good in the end. Tabby cats instead of Barbery apes greeted us on the summit. Relaxing descent. Rewarded ourselves with beer and paella at the harbour. A memorable day. Back next year to tackle the 6b+ version of Costa Blanca climb.
Very cold morning so snoozed amongst the cacti beneath the route until the sun came round. Nobody else around. Took a rack of nuts 3-11 plus a couple of hexs and a few slings and glad of them. Led P1,3,5,8 and 10. (Mike strung P6&7 together). Highlights were the start of P3 (bolted, thankfully), the last section of P4 (an exciting wake-up call for what was to come), all of P6 (especially the reachy moves up to the bolt from the jammed block and most of P9 and 10. Made a meal of the abseil which didn't turn out to be as difficult as it looked - make sure the first one down has a means of locking off the abseil (e.g. prusik) but it all came good in the end. Tabby cats instead of Barbery apes greeted us on the summit. Relaxing descent. Rewarded ourselves with beer and paella at the harbour. A memorable day. Back next year to tackle the 6b+ version of Costa Blanca climb.
mtempest 13 Feb, 2012 AltLd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 1 Dec, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 19 Nov, 2011 2nd
LukeyG ?Oct, 2011 AltLd
Rowan Mitchell 30 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Pitch 4: Alan decided to go off route on the left crack (we both found this hard). Pitch 7 and 8: I climbed up to look for anchors but didn't like the look of it all. Instead, we used the abseil to the left and traversed across to the anchors below. Took 5 hours
with Alan100
Pitch 4: Alan decided to go off route on the left crack (we both found this hard). Pitch 7 and 8: I climbed up to look for anchors but didn't like the look of it all. Instead, we used the abseil to the left and traversed across to the anchors below. Took 5 hours
with Alan100
Josh Dickerson ?Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
with Andy Dickerson
with Andy Dickerson
LittleLuka 4 May, 2011 2nd Amazing climbing!
with Alison, Andy
Amazing climbing!
with Alison, Andy
krasavenko 3 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S well... it was a great adventure, most climbing was nice, having lunch in a cave was awesome and the view from the top was amazing! but getting confused by the rockfax description meant we had 13 belays, went a bit of route and as a result ended up doing what felt like 6b moves to get out of the 2 small caves below the large one. note to self - go very far right after the pinnacle!
well... it was a great adventure, most climbing was nice, having lunch in a cave was awesome and the view from the top was amazing! but getting confused by the rockfax description meant we had 13 belays, went a bit of route and as a result ended up doing what felt like 6b moves to get out of the 2 small caves below the large one. note to self - go very far right after the pinnacle!
Triggalicious 3 Apr, 2011 AltLd
Lev 2 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Mar, 2011 AltLd
tmawer 25 Mar, 2011 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?Mar, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ?Mar, 2011 AltLd
mick1jones 24 Feb, 2011 AltLd dog Led last 2 pitches
with Ellin, Dave
Led last 2 pitches
with Ellin, Dave
Hidden ?Feb, 2011 -
bigrob 30 Jan, 2011 Lead led first 10 pitches then caz led 11
with caz neely
led first 10 pitches then caz led 11
with caz neely
khmhau 4 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S basically lead the whole thing except pitch 3 maybe? the 4+
with Nick Barrow
basically lead the whole thing except pitch 3 maybe? the 4+
with Nick Barrow
tomhennigan 3 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S Lead every pitch clean, was an epic day! Note to self, Anasazis are NOT comfortable all day shoes!
with Jamie Parkin
Lead every pitch clean, was an epic day! Note to self, Anasazis are NOT comfortable all day shoes!
with Jamie Parkin
Jo Davison 3 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S Awesome!
with Ed Searle
Awesome!
with Ed Searle
Tom Downes 3 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S scamble pitch 1 no ropes. Lead pitch 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10
with Luke Fuggle
scamble pitch 1 no ropes. Lead pitch 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10
with Luke Fuggle
Hidden 1 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
marcb 1 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S Probably the most memorable climb of my life to date
with James39
Probably the most memorable climb of my life to date
with James39
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
Robin Head 30 Dec, 2010 Lead rpt not as good as the first time, experience is cool but climbing itself is mediocore. çwe also got benighted as we were stuck behind a really slow group of 3 so we had to do the last 3-4 pitches in the pitch black.
with Jen
not as good as the first time, experience is cool but climbing itself is mediocore. çwe also got benighted as we were stuck behind a really slow group of 3 so we had to do the last 3-4 pitches in the pitch black.
with Jen
JenDurden 30 Dec, 2010 2nd β What an adventure! First multi-pitch, first abseil and first benightment!
What an adventure! First multi-pitch, first abseil and first benightment!
Hidden 30 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
Jo Morrison 15 Dec, 2010 2nd Definitely not to be undertaken lightly. The climbing is powerful and hard work. Definitely need to take a rack.
with Dan
Definitely not to be undertaken lightly. The climbing is powerful and hard work. Definitely need to take a rack.
with Dan
dan ely 4 Dec, 2010 AltLd dog i fell on p6- so polished 2 moves desperate
with christian the german
i fell on p6- so polished 2 moves desperate
with christian the german
Hidden 16 Nov, 2010 AltLd
andeeeee 4 Nov, 2010 2nd Took forever after having to wait for a bunch of 3 Finnish guys that carried on up where they should have abseiled and came back down when the realised their error. Take plenty of fluids and get their early to catch the worm!!
with Nick Read
Took forever after having to wait for a bunch of 3 Finnish guys that carried on up where they should have abseiled and came back down when the realised their error. Take plenty of fluids and get their early to catch the worm!!
with Nick Read
Hidden ?Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
barney_edin 21 Oct, 2010 AltLd
with Sue G
with Sue G
Andy Fielding 18 Oct, 2010 AltLd
with Sandrex
with Sandrex
Sandrex 18 Oct, 2010 AltLd Fantastic day. Longest day climbing ever. Approx 8 hours. Memories will last forever.
Fantastic day. Longest day climbing ever. Approx 8 hours. Memories will last forever.
Mike Weatherill 11 Oct, 2010 Lead rpt
Seb31 ?Aug, 2010 AltLd
chri55ie 9 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Lead all pitches. Got the rope stuck on the abseil.
with Tom Taylor
Lead all pitches. Got the rope stuck on the abseil.
with Tom Taylor
samcook 30 Mar, 2010 2nd Started about 9am. Got to the top about 11pm so climbed the last pitch in the dark! Good climb, a bit of everything: laybacks, traverses, chimney/cave, and an abseil.
with Alex Higgs, lrandall
Started about 9am. Got to the top about 11pm so climbed the last pitch in the dark! Good climb, a bit of everything: laybacks, traverses, chimney/cave, and an abseil.
with Alex Higgs, lrandall
lrandall 30 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S At 13 hrs from start to finish this turned into a bit of an epic! Nothing went wrong, just very slow going as a team of three, plus we got stuck behind a pair who got well and truly stuck on the crux pitch so we had to go and offer assistance. Lead all pitches except pitch 2. Some brilliant climbing, not always well protected. Definately comparable to HVS as in Rockfax.
with samcook, Alex
At 13 hrs from start to finish this turned into a bit of an epic! Nothing went wrong, just very slow going as a team of three, plus we got stuck behind a pair who got well and truly stuck on the crux pitch so we had to go and offer assistance. Lead all pitches except pitch 2. Some brilliant climbing, not always well protected. Definately comparable to HVS as in Rockfax.
with samcook, Alex
Matt Smith 27 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 3, 5 and 9. Didn't take any trad gear with us, but found that you didn't really need it, though might be nice to have some on piches 2 and 3 as very spaced bolts! Overall time of 4 and a quarter hours starting at 9am. Get there early as queues later.
Lead pitches 3, 5 and 9. Didn't take any trad gear with us, but found that you didn't really need it, though might be nice to have some on piches 2 and 3 as very spaced bolts! Overall time of 4 and a quarter hours starting at 9am. Get there early as queues later.
Amy Ellie 26 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
Robin Head 26 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 1,4,6,7 and 10 Did not have any Trad gear on us, did not need any. Sometimes the bolts were a bit spaced but those parts where generally straight forward. Only confusing bit: The belay at the bottom of the cave is really in the right hand corner of the bottom of the cave (actually a belay of another route) we did not use it, but it caused a lot of rope drag! General advise: Take a camelbak with you it is very warm up there! start early to avoid queing took us 6 hours no headtorches required.
with hugo101
Lead pitches 1,4,6,7 and 10 Did not have any Trad gear on us, did not need any. Sometimes the bolts were a bit spaced but those parts where generally straight forward. Only confusing bit: The belay at the bottom of the cave is really in the right hand corner of the bottom of the cave (actually a belay of another route) we did not use it, but it caused a lot of rope drag! General advise: Take a camelbak with you it is very warm up there! start early to avoid queing took us 6 hours no headtorches required.
with hugo101
martinp 20 Mar, 2010 AltLd Started at 10. Finished at 8
with Dave S and Alan C
Started at 10. Finished at 8
with Dave S and Alan C
mrstarwarsman ?Mar, 2010 AltLd fantastic climb! forgot how "adventurously bolted" it was
fantastic climb! forgot how "adventurously bolted" it was
erica 3 Feb, 2010 - Great route, perfect weather. Led pitches 2 and 4
Great route, perfect weather. Led pitches 2 and 4
John Brayshaw 3 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S Big route, big day, big smile
with erica
Big route, big day, big smile
with erica
seeroo 21 Jan, 2010 2nd O/S
with Scone
with Scone
Hidden ??, 2010 -
ASchwirtz 31 Dec, 2009 Lead O/S Lead pitch 3 (5+), 5 (4), 6 (5+), 7 (Scramble), 8 (ab seil), 9 (4), 10 (4+) Seconded pitch 2 (4+), 4 (5) Soloed pitch 1 (Scramble)
with Ian Bruce
Lead pitch 3 (5+), 5 (4), 6 (5+), 7 (Scramble), 8 (ab seil), 9 (4), 10 (4+) Seconded pitch 2 (4+), 4 (5) Soloed pitch 1 (Scramble)
with Ian Bruce
tommyzero 20 Dec, 2009 Lead RP A brilliant route but as others have stated you may need more than a light rack (and headtorches) to ensure a good day out! We took just one set of nuts and a size 4 cam, lots of threads and enough quickdraws so that we could discard a few enroute. It's also a good idea to make sure you've got Alex and Chip climbing above you to show you the way down when you top out in the dark. Thanks guys. Tommy lead 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th, 8th (abseil), 9th (dusk) and 10th (very dark). Sir Rich lead 2nd, 4th and 6th
with Sir Rich Mc Rich
A brilliant route but as others have stated you may need more than a light rack (and headtorches) to ensure a good day out! We took just one set of nuts and a size 4 cam, lots of threads and enough quickdraws so that we could discard a few enroute. It's also a good idea to make sure you've got Alex and Chip climbing above you to show you the way down when you top out in the dark. Thanks guys. Tommy lead 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th, 8th (abseil), 9th (dusk) and 10th (very dark). Sir Rich lead 2nd, 4th and 6th
with Sir Rich Mc Rich
alexrafferty1986 20 Dec, 2009 Lead O/S Fantastic route, made it into a really relaxing day taking in the sun at the belays, shortly after our afternoon siesta in the cave we decided to get a move on!!! Superb climbing with great positions. This is not a sport route (hence the HVS in the guidebook)! Took a set of nuts and 4 cams BD .5, .75, 1, and red, you may not use that much gear, but its definately worth having to make the route more enjoyable. Arrived at the car in good time, the pair that set off behind us didn't take HEADTORCHES and may have needed some assistance on the way down, eh Chris and Rich, thanks for the beers!! Checklist: Nuts 1-10, Cams 4, 15 Quickdraws to be safe and Headtorches!! Abseil bolts are left of belay bolts on the face to the left of the cave (peer out), dont climb up to the tat in the cave. Enjoy
with Chip Rafferty
Fantastic route, made it into a really relaxing day taking in the sun at the belays, shortly after our afternoon siesta in the cave we decided to get a move on!!! Superb climbing with great positions. This is not a sport route (hence the HVS in the guidebook)! Took a set of nuts and 4 cams BD .5, .75, 1, and red, you may not use that much gear, but its definately worth having to make the route more enjoyable. Arrived at the car in good time, the pair that set off behind us didn't take HEADTORCHES and may have needed some assistance on the way down, eh Chris and Rich, thanks for the beers!! Checklist: Nuts 1-10, Cams 4, 15 Quickdraws to be safe and Headtorches!! Abseil bolts are left of belay bolts on the face to the left of the cave (peer out), dont climb up to the tat in the cave. Enjoy
with Chip Rafferty
Mattzx6r 4 Dec, 2009 AltLd Extended pitch 5 to the stance on top of the pinnacle. From there went straight up, via a tricky move escaping right from a small cave below the main cave, to the abseil stance. The 'large clump of tat' mentioned in the old guide for abseiling, has happily been replaced with double bolts. A few cams and a set of nuts were useful but not essential. Matt, P1&2, P4, Mod P6, P8. Stu, P3, P5 (To Pinnacle), Abseil, P9
with Stu
Extended pitch 5 to the stance on top of the pinnacle. From there went straight up, via a tricky move escaping right from a small cave below the main cave, to the abseil stance. The 'large clump of tat' mentioned in the old guide for abseiling, has happily been replaced with double bolts. A few cams and a set of nuts were useful but not essential. Matt, P1&2, P4, Mod P6, P8. Stu, P3, P5 (To Pinnacle), Abseil, P9
with Stu
sonic46 4 Dec, 2009 2nd
with Stu, Pete Collins, Mattzx6r
with Stu, Pete Collins, Mattzx6r
rilem 16 Nov, 2009 - 6.5 Hrs climbing. Suggest a bit more than a 'light rack' unless you are very confident. Don't confuse it with a sports grade 5. Double bolt belays and ab rings on all pitches. Sparsely bolted on pitches except on the tricky bits. Description / topo is confusing around the cave / abseil pitches. Double bolt belay at top of P7 is at lower left side of the cave - don't be tempted to scramble up to the top of the cave. Lean out over the void and look left for double bolt ab point - big bunch of ab tat has been removed. Brilliant experience.
with Rog S
6.5 Hrs climbing. Suggest a bit more than a 'light rack' unless you are very confident. Don't confuse it with a sports grade 5. Double bolt belays and ab rings on all pitches. Sparsely bolted on pitches except on the tricky bits. Description / topo is confusing around the cave / abseil pitches. Double bolt belay at top of P7 is at lower left side of the cave - don't be tempted to scramble up to the top of the cave. Lean out over the void and look left for double bolt ab point - big bunch of ab tat has been removed. Brilliant experience.
with Rog S
Adderbury Climber ?Nov, 2009 2nd dog
Hidden ?Nov, 2009 Lead
Hidden 23 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S
sgl 21 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
with mallard and ben
with mallard and ben
ThomasB ?Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with El Nic
with El Nic
chri55ie 19 Apr, 2009 AltLd Lead pitches 2 and 4
with Alan Gill
Lead pitches 2 and 4
with Alan Gill
Mike Weatherill 16 Apr, 2009 Lead rpt
MonkeyDawson 31 Mar, 2009 Lead
Hidden 13 Mar, 2009 AltLd dog
Creation Climbing Centre ?Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ian Gee
with Ian Gee
DavidR 2 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S 3 hours 20 minutes. Followed by Via Valancianos in the afternoon! Pitch 1 - Hol; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Hol; Pitch 8 - ab; Pitch 9 - Hol; Pitch 10 - Dave.
3 hours 20 minutes. Followed by Via Valancianos in the afternoon! Pitch 1 - Hol; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Hol; Pitch 8 - ab; Pitch 9 - Hol; Pitch 10 - Dave.
Hidden 2 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jan, 2009 Lead
Hidden 2 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
CathS 2 Jan, 2009 AltLd dnf Got a little over-confident after cruising up 4+ and 5 sports routes all week, and bit off more than I could chew with this one. Hard, thuggish, thrutchy climbing on horribly polished rock and sparse bolts. Couldn't overcome the crux on my lead on pitch 2 (which felt like the harder end of VS), so ended up setting up a belay in a somewhat precarious position mid-pitch to bring Dave up to finish it off for me. I then struggled to second it, getting totally pumped. Decided we'd rather not have a complete epic and abbed off from the top of pitch 2, to my great relief. Spent the rest of the day quietly sporting a thousand-yard stare.... Grading (and by all accounts the topos) in the old Cicerone Costa Blanca Rock Guide appears more accurate than the new RockFax guide. Dave would have romped up it given a more equally matched partner.
with Dave Clark
Got a little over-confident after cruising up 4+ and 5 sports routes all week, and bit off more than I could chew with this one. Hard, thuggish, thrutchy climbing on horribly polished rock and sparse bolts. Couldn't overcome the crux on my lead on pitch 2 (which felt like the harder end of VS), so ended up setting up a belay in a somewhat precarious position mid-pitch to bring Dave up to finish it off for me. I then struggled to second it, getting totally pumped. Decided we'd rather not have a complete epic and abbed off from the top of pitch 2, to my great relief. Spent the rest of the day quietly sporting a thousand-yard stare.... Grading (and by all accounts the topos) in the old Cicerone Costa Blanca Rock Guide appears more accurate than the new RockFax guide. Dave would have romped up it given a more equally matched partner.
with Dave Clark
duncan 31 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S
staceyjg 31 Dec, 2008 2nd Also climbed with Hannah Bostrom. Unfortunately, this route was beyond me, only my 2nd multipitch route of such proportions. Hating every second of the 2nd pitch my partner made the wise choice of retreating before the climb became a major epic for me. Shook my confidence a fair amount and have vowed to attempt some more multipitch moutain routes in the future.
Also climbed with Hannah Bostrom. Unfortunately, this route was beyond me, only my 2nd multipitch route of such proportions. Hating every second of the 2nd pitch my partner made the wise choice of retreating before the climb became a major epic for me. Shook my confidence a fair amount and have vowed to attempt some more multipitch moutain routes in the future.
al99 29 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S Only climbed to the top of pitch 6 and then found ourselves confused by the abseil description in the guide book. Backed off as time was getting tight. Great route though with loads of charachter.
Only climbed to the top of pitch 6 and then found ourselves confused by the abseil description in the guide book. Backed off as time was getting tight. Great route though with loads of charachter.
martinazando 28 Dec, 2008 AltLd
with al99
with al99
Lauren Davies 17 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Crazy Tom
with Crazy Tom
TonyP 12 Dec, 2008 Lead O/S
with Boggy
with Boggy
funsized ?Dec, 2008 Lead O/S On arriving at the cave, did not see ab lower off, and instead climbed the left side of the cave, and ab'd of the most horrible bit of rusty tat I have ever used (complemented by stunning 200m drop). spotted lower off on way down and chalked it up to a very important life lesson (whilst wetting myself about current lower off). Very relieved to get away with that one.
On arriving at the cave, did not see ab lower off, and instead climbed the left side of the cave, and ab'd of the most horrible bit of rusty tat I have ever used (complemented by stunning 200m drop). spotted lower off on way down and chalked it up to a very important life lesson (whilst wetting myself about current lower off). Very relieved to get away with that one.
mrstarwarsman ?Dec, 2008 AltLd shat my pants and had 2 7m falls. Worth it!
shat my pants and had 2 7m falls. Worth it!
Tom Downes ?Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S
with steven mayer
with steven mayer
MikaelW 22 Nov, 2008 2nd dnf too tired to finish! did half the route, enough to convince me to go back to climbing after 10 year break :-)
with Keegan
too tired to finish! did half the route, enough to convince me to go back to climbing after 10 year break :-)
with Keegan
jamie ward 5 Oct, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Luke Rooker
with Luke Rooker
Mr Tickle 5 Oct, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Martyn Eales
with Martyn Eales
Hidden ?Sep, 2008 AltLd
Christian Reynish 11 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch, Daf led the rest
with DafSWMC
Led 1st pitch, Daf led the rest
with DafSWMC
DafSWMC 11 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S Chris led 1st pitch. Led the rest. 6.5 hours. Amazing route for the grade. "Big", thrutchy, exposed climbing. Route description is now inaccurate. 3. Don't go past possible stance on large ledge, but use it. 5. Carry on past shady spot behind pinnacle to 3BB on top of jammed block. 6. Believe I went too far right here, to smooth crack of "Puto" at same grade. Should go straight up wall to belay on 2BB at bottom left of cave. Ab station out on front face on left. 7+8. Ab down to ledge, using tufa to assist traverse over to 3BB. (With hindsight should have just threaded the ab station, and lowered to ledge and traversed over to farthest BB on ledge.) 9. Traverse about 10m into corner, then continue right up past large thread and large spiky bush to 3BB below final corner.
Chris led 1st pitch. Led the rest. 6.5 hours. Amazing route for the grade. "Big", thrutchy, exposed climbing. Route description is now inaccurate. 3. Don't go past possible stance on large ledge, but use it. 5. Carry on past shady spot behind pinnacle to 3BB on top of jammed block. 6. Believe I went too far right here, to smooth crack of "Puto" at same grade. Should go straight up wall to belay on 2BB at bottom left of cave. Ab station out on front face on left. 7+8. Ab down to ledge, using tufa to assist traverse over to 3BB. (With hindsight should have just threaded the ab station, and lowered to ledge and traversed over to farthest BB on ledge.) 9. Traverse about 10m into corner, then continue right up past large thread and large spiky bush to 3BB below final corner.
Hidden 26 Jan, 2008 2nd dog
Peter Metcalfe 25 Jan, 2008 AltLd Got rope stuck on ab out of cave, had to descend to ledge below Pinnacle, traverse across to Piratas and continue up two pitches of that and the rest of Diedro UBSA. Things started getting a bit fraught as darkness fell.
with David Jones
Got rope stuck on ab out of cave, had to descend to ledge below Pinnacle, traverse across to Piratas and continue up two pitches of that and the rest of Diedro UBSA. Things started getting a bit fraught as darkness fell.
with David Jones
CarolineH 4 Jan, 2008 AltLd
with Neil
with Neil
KeithW 4 Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S Perfect rock, route, weather, climbing, company, scenery... a route so good I giggled to myself on the belays and shouted to anyone who'd listen as I pulled up the cracks. A day to keep me warm through this season's shivering belays & abandoned Scottish days. Superb.
with Corky
Perfect rock, route, weather, climbing, company, scenery... a route so good I giggled to myself on the belays and shouted to anyone who'd listen as I pulled up the cracks. A day to keep me warm through this season's shivering belays & abandoned Scottish days. Superb.
with Corky
Phil PBC ??, 2008 -
SteveM 30 Dec, 2007 AltLd O/S
laurent 30 Dec, 2007 AltLd O/S Bolted. Placed one nut on the first pitch though.
Bolted. Placed one nut on the first pitch though.
kitkat78 30 Dec, 2007 AltLd O/S Fab climbing with exposed positions. 4.5 hours. Led evens.
with SteveM
Fab climbing with exposed positions. 4.5 hours. Led evens.
with SteveM
Hidden 27 Dec, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Dec, 2007 AltLd
jh5638 18 Dec, 2007 Lead O/S
with Ian Gould
with Ian Gould
Hidden ?Dec, 2007 -
cat22 ?Dec, 2007 AltLd O/S
haydng 17 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
with RMG
with RMG
Hidden 6 Nov, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Oct, 2007 2nd β
gjd 1 May, 2007 AltLd
with Joe
with Joe
climbingrick 29 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S All but 2 pitches, fantastic route with an exposed absail.
All but 2 pitches, fantastic route with an exposed absail.
steven ?Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Brian Hull
with Brian Hull
Julie Carroll ?Mar, 2007 2nd
with Rich Mayfield
with Rich Mayfield
Hidden 28 Jan, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 25 Dec, 2006 Lead dnf
trevor macalonan 25 Dec, 2006 Lead dnf
dave o ?Dec, 2006 AltLd O/S a far far better route than via valencious
a far far better route than via valencious
pauelo 12 Nov, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Carles Sol?s
with Carles Sol?s
Hidden 10 Nov, 2006 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 31 Oct, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Martina
with Martina
Simon Allcock ?Oct, 2006 AltLd
with nick
with nick
Darragh ?Sep, 2006 AltLd Amazing day out.
Amazing day out.
BobbyH 7 Apr, 2006 AltLd dog Only took 7.5 hours!
with NI
Only took 7.5 hours!
with NI
Sankey 25 Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S If you have been sport cragging, prepare to be surprised by how thrutchy a lot of this is!
If you have been sport cragging, prepare to be surprised by how thrutchy a lot of this is!
Rich A-Wilkes 24 Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S Amazing route! Fabulous climbing, views and position! The route that has it all!
with Dale
Amazing route! Fabulous climbing, views and position! The route that has it all!
with Dale
Hidden 9 Mar, 2006 Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose ?Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S Lead: P3 (5+); second half of P4 (5); P6 (5+); P10 (4+).
with Sankey
Lead: P3 (5+); second half of P4 (5); P6 (5+); P10 (4+).
with Sankey
Al Evans 18 Jan, 2006 2nd
Chris the Tall 18 Jan, 2006 Lead O/S Al led first pitch and 4th (4) - can't remember how many we took, but it was 6:30 when we finished and 8:30 by the time we got down. Going wrong after the pinacle didn't help
Al led first pitch and 4th (4) - can't remember how many we took, but it was 6:30 when we finished and 8:30 by the time we got down. Going wrong after the pinacle didn't help
ross1983 5 Jan, 2006 Lead O/S Very committing, good gear and great views!
with Nick Heasman
Very committing, good gear and great views!
with Nick Heasman
andy jennings ?Jan, 2006 AltLd O/S
mikelaing ??, 2006 -
King Rat ??, 2006 -
HansStuttgart ??, 2006 - Great route
Great route
will_benfold ?Dec, 2005 AltLd O/S I think I led the odd-numbered pitches.
with Tom G
I think I led the odd-numbered pitches.
with Tom G
Will Gordon ?Dec, 2005 Lead O/S 10 pitches.
with Laurence Hooper
10 pitches.
with Laurence Hooper
Fat Tim ?Dec, 2005 2nd O/S
with Rob McGregor
with Rob McGregor
Hidden 22 Oct, 2005 AltLd
Shaw Brown 25 Apr, 2005 AltLd
with simon blythe
with simon blythe
Ramon Marin 24 Apr, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Lim
with Gavin Lim
Hidden 2 Apr, 2005 AltLd O/S
Mike Weatherill 24 Feb, 2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Feb, 2005 2nd
Hidden 16 Feb, 2005 2nd
Robbie H 3 Jan, 2005 Lead O/S Chris v. tired after crack climbing. Tricky pendulum abseil from the cave - prussik?
with Chris Wright
Chris v. tired after crack climbing. Tricky pendulum abseil from the cave - prussik?
with Chris Wright
chris warner ?Dec, 2004 Lead
with lewi williams
with lewi williams
Hidden ?Oct, 2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Mar, 2004 AltLd
hal ?Mar, 2004 -
Hidden ?Mar, 2004 AltLd O/S
Kyuzo ?Mar, 2004 AltLd RP
with Bernard Lam
with Bernard Lam
Hidden 25 Jan, 2004 AltLd
Al Evans 9 Jan, 2004 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 9 Jan, 2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2004 -
dannyboy83 ?Dec, 2003 AltLd O/S Being one of our 1st multipitches, it was the obligatory epic. Carrying enough crap with us we could survive a nuclear winter, we took far too long and was overtaken by 2 spanish dudes dressed only in pants.
with Ian Lovatt
Being one of our 1st multipitches, it was the obligatory epic. Carrying enough crap with us we could survive a nuclear winter, we took far too long and was overtaken by 2 spanish dudes dressed only in pants.
with Ian Lovatt
Hidden 8 Oct, 2003 AltLd O/S
Spillers ?Oct, 2003 AltLd
with Randy
with Randy
DavidR 28 Apr, 2003 AltLd O/S 7.5 hours
with Jemma Wadham
7.5 hours
with Jemma Wadham
Mark Collins 19 Mar, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Hetherington
with Gavin Hetherington
chris skipton ?Mar, 2003 Lead O/S Tremendous route.
with CF
Tremendous route.
with CF
Mark Riley ?Mar, 2003 AltLd O/S Stuart & Hen
Stuart & Hen
Hidden ??, 2003 AltLd O/S
csalvage 14 Oct, 2002 AltLd with Susanna. Repeat of 8/11/99 with Jack
with Bryan
with Susanna. Repeat of 8/11/99 with Jack
with Bryan
Hidden 9 May, 2002 AltLd O/S
Martin Bennett 25 Apr, 2001 -
with Phil
with Phil
cem 31 Mar, 2001 AltLd O/S Led p 3, 4, 6 & 10. Took a long fall near top of p6 when a handhold snapped
with Sally Dipple
Led p 3, 4, 6 & 10. Took a long fall near top of p6 when a handhold snapped
with Sally Dipple
Hidden ??, 2001 AltLd
dan gibson ?Nov, 2000 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Hidden ?Oct, 2000 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Oct, 2000 AltLd rpt
Hidden 13 Apr, 2000 AltLd O/S
dickypips ?Feb, 2000 2nd
with john richards
with john richards
Tenko 27 Apr, 1999 AltLd
with John Hine
with John Hine
tjekel ??, 1999 -
King Rat ??, 1999 AltLd O/S
with A
with A
steve prior ?Nov, 1998 AltLd
with Andy C
with Andy C
Hidden ??, 1998 AltLd O/S
lost.arrow 27 Dec, 1996 Lead
with Phil Clough
with Phil Clough
craig h 12 Apr, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
with Janet Hannah
brianrunner 11 Mar, 1996 AltLd this is a great route. Martina and I have done it 3 times over the years
with steve wells, martina
this is a great route. Martina and I have done it 3 times over the years
with steve wells, martina
Hidden ?Dec, 1995 AltLd
EddieA ?Nov, 1995 AltLd O/S Fun adventure
with Simon W
Fun adventure
with Simon W
Mick r 5 Mar, 1995 AltLd rpt
with Jim Kirkwood
with Jim Kirkwood
John Andrew Simpson ??, 1995 AltLd O/S I led a couple of easy pitches Dave took the rest.
with Dave Wilson
I led a couple of easy pitches Dave took the rest.
with Dave Wilson
OMSKB ?Dec, 1993 Lead
Budge ?Feb, 1993 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
with Richard Teed
Mick King 21 Jan, 1993 AltLd Lead Ps 1 3 5 7 & 9
with Pete Hankinson
Lead Ps 1 3 5 7 & 9
with Pete Hankinson
Hidden 5 Jan, 1993 AltLd O/S
SimonN 7 Apr, 1992 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jan, 1992 AltLd
freeheel47 ??, 1992 AltLd
steve taylor ?Dec, 1991 AltLd
with stumpy
with stumpy
Hidden ??, 1990 AltLd
Hidden ?Dec, 1987 Lead
wynaptomos ?Mar, 1987 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Jan, 1987 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 -
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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 104
Votes cast 104
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set