UKC

65m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E3. Another good route, although not of the calibre of El Dorado.
1) 3, 15m. As for El Dorado.
2) 6a+, 30m. From the ledge, traverse right until next to the hanging rope. Climb up some scoops then go diagonally rightwards to a small stance below a bulge.
3) 6b, 35m. Climb up slightly leftwards past some well-featured rock (tricky route-finding) to the ramp. Belay a long way back.
3a) 6b, 35m. A poorer alternative right-hand variation. © Rockfax

FA. A Gómez 1987


ClimberDateStyle
rachelpearce01 17/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
George_Surf 17/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Led the main 2 pitches. Lower pitch is good, steep climbing with big threads and bolts for protection. Was all good to the point where the line goes right up the ramp to the stance. The two pegs under the overhang are poor (this may have been the old stance???). The obvious belay is on the ledge above, but there was nothing except a very old, very knackerd peg 7ft up the blank wall. Needs bolts here. I traversed on to the wall to the left (Eldorado 2 area?) and got a thread, yellow dragon and bolt belay. Fully hanging, mega exposed. Pitch 2 was really good up the well featured steep wall, following a couple of bolts and numerous threads. Quite intricate at the top, initially climbed up and right, and then leftwards where it blanks out a bit (below a big shattered hole). Not obvious but lots of old threads show the line. Adventurous, and good climbing if you don’t climb in to the middle of the ledge!

Hidden 03/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Dave Musgrove ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S

Harder than Eldorado 1. The exit from the top pitch was somewhat confusing!

with Graham Exley
Hidden 30/Oct/00 Lead
Hidden 24/Dec/98 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/94 2nd O/S
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High 6b+
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High 6a+
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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