160m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HVS. A popular mini-expedition. There is some fixed gear where most needed, but take a rack. Approach by walking right (looking out) from the base of the ladders. Competent climbers will find the first 2 pitches solo-able however, if unsure, rope up.
1) 3, 25m. Traverse left to the Arete and then left again, descending into a cave.
Walk/scramble left across ledges to the left edge of the cave and step around onto a good ledge.
2) 3, 10m. Climb the wide crack on the left to a ledge then drop down left into a hollow.
3) 4, 20m. Traverse left to the Arete and climb round into a scoop. Pull past the overlap into a larger scoop. Old bolts.
4) 4, 25m. Traverse right to the Arete and climb this, trending right at the top, to a ledge. Belay here or continue traversing right into the next cave, poor bolt and gear to belay.
5) 5, 40m. A fine exposed pitch - about HVS 5a. Climb right and up into the next cave then left onto the Arete and up to a good ledge. Move right, climb the groove, moving right at its top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The abseil in is around 50m - double ropes needed, or leave a single rope in place and collect it later.
May be fully bolted now?

FA. R.Edwards 1986. Climbed solo, bolts placed later.

Ticklists

Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50, Costa Blanca 25 by 2025, Adventure ticklist 2018

Feedback

UserDateNotes
RedBandit 17 Oct Show βeta
βeta: First 3 pitches are all scramble-able. Pitch 4 seems to start closer to the “4” (route grade) in the guide book picture. Pitch 5 is fully bolted. Final pitch may need smallish cams for a piece of mind or for your less confident climbing buddy to pull on. Otherwise the first half has plenty bolts and the 2nd half has slightly spaced out bolts but bomber holds.
 
Show beta
βeta: First 3 pitches are all scramble-able. Pitch 4 seems to start closer to the “4” (route grade) in the guide book picture. Pitch 5 is fully bolted. Final pitch may need smallish cams for a piece of mind or for your less confident climbing buddy to pull on. Otherwise the first half has plenty bolts and the 2nd half has slightly spaced out bolts but bomber holds.
ZacMoss 9 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Now almost completely bolted, apart from the last crack at the end of p5. Bring a cam or two.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Now almost completely bolted, apart from the last crack at the end of p5. Bring a cam or two.
Nick Smith - Climbers 28 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A brilliant adventure, but very spaced gear!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A brilliant adventure, but very spaced gear!
brianrunner 16 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A good route with exciting situations but is a bit scary with poor pro and some loose rock. I couldn't work out the ENP thingies. We belayed at 'the next cave' after pitch 4 and the final pitch was only about 25m. The hard part on pitch 5 is the arete for about 5m- it is easier after that. I second the view that leaving an abseil rope in place is a good idea in case escape is required. Its an abseil of a little under 45m down to the ledge. Final point- we did it yesterday 15/04/05 and there are lots of nesting gulls and eggs on the route and if we new that in advance we wouldn't have climbed it, so I would recommend leaving it during nesting season.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good route with exciting situations but is a bit scary with poor pro and some loose rock. I couldn't work out the ENP thingies. We belayed at 'the next cave' after pitch 4 and the final pitch was only about 25m. The hard part on pitch 5 is the arete for about 5m- it is easier after that. I second the view that leaving an abseil rope in place is a good idea in case escape is required. Its an abseil of a little under 45m down to the ledge. Final point- we did it yesterday 15/04/05 and there are lots of nesting gulls and eggs on the route and if we new that in advance we wouldn't have climbed it, so I would recommend leaving it during nesting season.
Dnmn 6 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Such is the quality of gear and exposure on this route that a couple of climbers from Calpe attempted to escape from the area by climbing the ladders, having abbed in and pulled the ropes through. We plucked them from the top of the second ladder as they were trying to find a way out. Moral? Leave ab ropes in place, or take your swimming trunks, if not absolutely confident of success.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Such is the quality of gear and exposure on this route that a couple of climbers from Calpe attempted to escape from the area by climbing the ladders, having abbed in and pulled the ropes through. We plucked them from the top of the second ladder as they were trying to find a way out. Moral? Leave ab ropes in place, or take your swimming trunks, if not absolutely confident of success.
Dnmn 6 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The rock is not solid and the gear is sparse. Belays are ENPs and little else particularly on pitch 3
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The rock is not solid and the gear is sparse. Belays are ENPs and little else particularly on pitch 3
Gripped 5 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Descend the fishermans ladder if you dare. No way ho zay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Descend the fishermans ladder if you dare. No way ho zay.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Biff0r 18 Oct 2nd Lovely cloudy day. Team of 6 in 2’s. took 2.45 hours. Great adventure and brilliant company
Lovely cloudy day. Team of 6 in 2’s. took 2.45 hours. Great adventure and brilliant company
RedBandit 17 Oct AltLd O/S It’s bloody hot if you decide to do it on a day with full sun and no breeze. Especially if you’re from the cold, murky reaches of Yorkshire. The group of 4 didn’t help get it done quicker.
with James
It’s bloody hot if you decide to do it on a day with full sun and no breeze. Especially if you’re from the cold, murky reaches of Yorkshire. The group of 4 didn’t help get it done quicker.
with James
NJaycock 17 Oct Lead O/S
with liv, philhayes, Jennifnfe
with liv, philhayes, Jennifnfe
philhayes 17 Oct Lead O/S
Jennifnfe 17 Oct 2nd O/S Scary traverse on pitch 3 but a really fun route, will lead next year when we return :)
Scary traverse on pitch 3 but a really fun route, will lead next year when we return :)
CharHirst13 16 Oct AltLd
with Mike401
with Mike401
Mike401 16 Oct AltLd
Wojciech T Nowinski 22 May Lead O/S
PilarMartinez 19 May AltLd A little adventure which is quite good. Although it is a shame that it is now bolted. Also the description of the third pitch from wrongFax is incorrect. Says traverse for 20mts when it is actually like 7mts only to a good anchor. So it was quite confusing.
A little adventure which is quite good. Although it is a shame that it is now bolted. Also the description of the third pitch from wrongFax is incorrect. Says traverse for 20mts when it is actually like 7mts only to a good anchor. So it was quite confusing.
Julesthe1st 19 May AltLd O/S Okay it looks like this route has been fully bolted (a bit conservatively). As such l don't think it can be described as an "Adventure Climb". More of an introduction to adventure climbing. Think it's lost something because of it. Still there is a wild abseil, some great positions, huge rock architecture, some interesting geology and a sea cliff atmosphere. Placed a wire or two on the finial pitch.
Okay it looks like this route has been fully bolted (a bit conservatively). As such l don't think it can be described as an "Adventure Climb". More of an introduction to adventure climbing. Think it's lost something because of it. Still there is a wild abseil, some great positions, huge rock architecture, some interesting geology and a sea cliff atmosphere. Placed a wire or two on the finial pitch.
globalgregor 10 Apr Lead O/S Red, blue, gray DMM wallnuts and offset nuts useful for peace of mind and rope management on the first pitches if roping up.
Red, blue, gray DMM wallnuts and offset nuts useful for peace of mind and rope management on the first pitches if roping up.
FeargalR 10 Apr AltLd O/S
Jamiewalkerjones 10 Apr AltLd O/S Mini expedition is about right. Look a lot to get motivated enough to commit to the abseil down. You can't really see the bottom until you go over the edge. The Ledge at the bottom is massive though, like the size of a little Tesco Express car park. I chucked the rope down and they got seriously tangled around the rusty old ladders. Like I cannot belive how tangled they were. Those ladders are just covered in hooks. So I was quite stressed out trying to swing over to the ladders to sort out the mess. When I finally got down to the ledge, Feargal started abbing down, got a third of the way down, just before he was dangling in space, he realised that he'd forgotten the rope! He had to climb back up belaying and prussicking himself up the abb rope and a rotten wooden ladder. Operation cock up! Anyway, the climbing and route finding is excellent. Stunning holds, well bolted, one nut placed on the final pitch. Cracking rest day route!
Mini expedition is about right. Look a lot to get motivated enough to commit to the abseil down. You can't really see the bottom until you go over the edge. The Ledge at the bottom is massive though, like the size of a little Tesco Express car park. I chucked the rope down and they got seriously tangled around the rusty old ladders. Like I cannot belive how tangled they were. Those ladders are just covered in hooks. So I was quite stressed out trying to swing over to the ladders to sort out the mess. When I finally got down to the ledge, Feargal started abbing down, got a third of the way down, just before he was dangling in space, he realised that he'd forgotten the rope! He had to climb back up belaying and prussicking himself up the abb rope and a rotten wooden ladder. Operation cock up! Anyway, the climbing and route finding is excellent. Stunning holds, well bolted, one nut placed on the final pitch. Cracking rest day route!
payney1973 3 Apr AltLd β Great climb, solo first two pitches, last is spectactular!!!
Great climb, solo first two pitches, last is spectactular!!!
Hidden 2 Apr AltLd
wheelsucker 27 Mar AltLd O/S Very enjoyable if rather short route. 40m abseil from fixed anchor takes you to a platform above the sea and adjacent to the super sketchy steel ladders. Pitches 1 and 2 are easy scrambles l Immediately left of the ladder for around 40m.There is a single bolt hanger for the belay at the start of P3 which is a 15m traverse left to double bolt belay. P4 starts off with a very exposed traverse left on good holds round an arete to easier ground which traverses for a few meters below a steep wall. Climb the short wall at its left end to a belay. This pitch is only 15m and the guide book suggests you carry on from here but we decided to split the pitch to avoid rope drag and improve communication. From here the route goes up to the right in a rising traverse over a steep bulge on good holds to the belay. This is now the final pitch which is around 30m. From the belay head up to the right around an Arete to a wall. Go up the wall for 3m then step left back around the Arete and up a steep wall to the finishing corner which is climbed on the right. We placed no trad gear on the route which has been equipped relatively recently with new bolts and belay anchors. Some of the bolts are spaced but it's well bolted at the difficult sections. Small cams or wires 6 - 9 would be helpful at the top of the last pitch as it's runout after the last bolt. My partner never felt the need to place one but I would have. Fun route, very atmospheric and worthy of at least two stars.
with HW
Very enjoyable if rather short route. 40m abseil from fixed anchor takes you to a platform above the sea and adjacent to the super sketchy steel ladders. Pitches 1 and 2 are easy scrambles l Immediately left of the ladder for around 40m.There is a single bolt hanger for the belay at the start of P3 which is a 15m traverse left to double bolt belay. P4 starts off with a very exposed traverse left on good holds round an arete to easier ground which traverses for a few meters below a steep wall. Climb the short wall at its left end to a belay. This pitch is only 15m and the guide book suggests you carry on from here but we decided to split the pitch to avoid rope drag and improve communication. From here the route goes up to the right in a rising traverse over a steep bulge on good holds to the belay. This is now the final pitch which is around 30m. From the belay head up to the right around an Arete to a wall. Go up the wall for 3m then step left back around the Arete and up a steep wall to the finishing corner which is climbed on the right. We placed no trad gear on the route which has been equipped relatively recently with new bolts and belay anchors. Some of the bolts are spaced but it's well bolted at the difficult sections. Small cams or wires 6 - 9 would be helpful at the top of the last pitch as it's runout after the last bolt. My partner never felt the need to place one but I would have. Fun route, very atmospheric and worthy of at least two stars.
with HW
Hidden 24 Mar AltLd
Vinny47 11 Mar 2nd O/S
with Peter Dunlop
with Peter Dunlop
ShaneMoore 11 Mar Lead rpt got it right this time, much easier
got it right this time, much easier
ShaneMoore 10 Mar Lead O/S went high on traverse, big mistake well scary
went high on traverse, big mistake well scary
Rich.Sullivan96 10 Mar 2nd
BStar 9 Mar AltLd O/S P1, P3, P5. Fantastic outing. Ropes got stuck on the abseil in... not so great. Luckily some lovely Norwegians freed them for us. The route has some superb pitches, nice and juggy, hardly any trad gear placed until the last few meters of the last pitch. However you may wish to put a bit in on the first two scramble pitches. Worthy of top 50 for sure.
with Rachael88, Will Dean
P1, P3, P5. Fantastic outing. Ropes got stuck on the abseil in... not so great. Luckily some lovely Norwegians freed them for us. The route has some superb pitches, nice and juggy, hardly any trad gear placed until the last few meters of the last pitch. However you may wish to put a bit in on the first two scramble pitches. Worthy of top 50 for sure.
with Rachael88, Will Dean
wjcdean 9 Mar AltLd O/S ropes got stuck on hte ab in, luckily some nice norwegians above us helped out. i led Pitches 2 and 4. really good route, although one more bolt and you could leave gear at home,
ropes got stuck on hte ab in, luckily some nice norwegians above us helped out. i led Pitches 2 and 4. really good route, although one more bolt and you could leave gear at home,
Rachael88 9 Mar 2nd
Stiga 5 Mar 2nd O/S
with Mark eddy
with Mark eddy
Mark Eddy 5 Mar Lead
with Stig
with Stig
noelshannon 5 Mar AltLd
with Francis whelan
with Francis whelan
franwhelan 5 Mar AltLd O/S
Butel 3 Mar AltLd O/S
MarcyBoy87 3 Mar 2nd Solo first 2 pitches (scrambles)
Solo first 2 pitches (scrambles)
John Bunney 3 Mar AltLd Done again with Duncan and Tom. No need for any trad gear, all bolts in place.
with Butel
Done again with Duncan and Tom. No need for any trad gear, all bolts in place.
with Butel
HanMitch 27 Feb 2nd Free hanging abseil in, can't really see where you're going until you're over the edge! Solo first two pitches, finished the freaky traverse too high and had to do a sketchy step down to belay ledge. Loved the final pitch and exposure, such a great little adventure.
with dry
Free hanging abseil in, can't really see where you're going until you're over the edge! Solo first two pitches, finished the freaky traverse too high and had to do a sketchy step down to belay ledge. Loved the final pitch and exposure, such a great little adventure.
with dry
Russell Blackaller 27 Feb Lead O/S
dry 27 Feb AltLd O/S 60m single rope abseil in with the lower half completely out from the wall. Solo'd pitches 1 and 2 clipping in to a fixed rope at one bit. Great short day with the walk in and back. Super exposed and a fun day for someone fairly new like me, decent belay stances even sharing a lot of the time as went as two groups of two. Big bolts to belay from, fairly spaced bolts on the routes but pretty new and the spacing isn't bad at all. Took no trad gear.
60m single rope abseil in with the lower half completely out from the wall. Solo'd pitches 1 and 2 clipping in to a fixed rope at one bit. Great short day with the walk in and back. Super exposed and a fun day for someone fairly new like me, decent belay stances even sharing a lot of the time as went as two groups of two. Big bolts to belay from, fairly spaced bolts on the routes but pretty new and the spacing isn't bad at all. Took no trad gear.
dojmaestro 24 Feb AltLd O/S Brilliant adventure, single strand 60m abseil in, then long solo scramble (bit ballsy for us not used to it) round to the first anchor. Very exposed first short pitch traverse above the sea, final pitch was lovely and solitary, quite a run out to top out to a seated belay. (1st station standing/weighted anchor, 2nd standing, 3rd seated on top. 1st pitch lead, 2nd second, 3rd lead)
with Ben Barker
Brilliant adventure, single strand 60m abseil in, then long solo scramble (bit ballsy for us not used to it) round to the first anchor. Very exposed first short pitch traverse above the sea, final pitch was lovely and solitary, quite a run out to top out to a seated belay. (1st station standing/weighted anchor, 2nd standing, 3rd seated on top. 1st pitch lead, 2nd second, 3rd lead)
with Ben Barker
Joben 24 Feb AltLd O/S
Mark Eddy 23 Feb Lead
with KateA
with KateA
Inti 21 Feb Solo O/S
JimBee 15 Feb Lead rpt Climbed in approach shoes, took 10 draws, 5-11 offset rocks, Camalots 0.25, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 and BD micro cam green. 2 x 240cm slings for anchors.
with Cara Hayward, Andy Kuszyk
Climbed in approach shoes, took 10 draws, 5-11 offset rocks, Camalots 0.25, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 and BD micro cam green. 2 x 240cm slings for anchors.
with Cara Hayward, Andy Kuszyk
Super-Afro 14 Feb Lead O/S
with Sue , Jennie
with Sue , Jennie
Sue Hasel 14 Feb AltLd G/U
ZacMoss 13 Feb AltLd O/S Great climb, once you get over the initial mind-altering exposure. Led p3 and p5. Said exposure did a number on me on pitch 3, after I read the route wrong and kept my feet too high when coming around the first corner. The route is fully, if conservatively, bolted - although the very last crack on p5 needs a cam or two in it to prevent an abrupt reunion with the ledge beneath you. Would also recommend taking a medium nut to prevent a factor two fall onto to the anchor at the start of P3. Otherwise leave the trad rack at home.
with JimBee
Great climb, once you get over the initial mind-altering exposure. Led p3 and p5. Said exposure did a number on me on pitch 3, after I read the route wrong and kept my feet too high when coming around the first corner. The route is fully, if conservatively, bolted - although the very last crack on p5 needs a cam or two in it to prevent an abrupt reunion with the ledge beneath you. Would also recommend taking a medium nut to prevent a factor two fall onto to the anchor at the start of P3. Otherwise leave the trad rack at home.
with JimBee
JimBee 13 Feb Lead O/S Amazing adventure route. We soloed the grade 3 scramble sections and then Zac lead p3 and p5, I took p4.
with ZacMoss
Amazing adventure route. We soloed the grade 3 scramble sections and then Zac lead p3 and p5, I took p4.
with ZacMoss
ClimbingAlex 11 Feb Lead O/S Lovely little outing. The abseil location is next to two metal spikes & 3 bolts. Climb is fully bolted apart from the last pitch where a smallish cam is useful for the top crack.
Lovely little outing. The abseil location is next to two metal spikes & 3 bolts. Climb is fully bolted apart from the last pitch where a smallish cam is useful for the top crack.
Matt Magecha 11 Feb AltLd
HumphreyJ20 9 Feb AltLd O/S pitch 5 was the best part of the climb, good exposure and fun climbing.
pitch 5 was the best part of the climb, good exposure and fun climbing.
Valentino 9 Feb AltLd O/S
Chrisjw 8 Feb -
Hidden 8 Feb AltLd O/S
Jonesoc 26 Jan -
Hidden 12 Jan AltLd rpt
stevelismore 4 Jan AltLd O/S Fabulous route in hot sunshine!
with Mick Bailes
Fabulous route in hot sunshine!
with Mick Bailes
Hidden 4 Jan AltLd rpt
josefft 4 Jan AltLd O/S Soloed pitches 1 and 2. Lead pitch 4. Didn't take any trad gear - enough bolts on it.
with samkat
Soloed pitches 1 and 2. Lead pitch 4. Didn't take any trad gear - enough bolts on it.
with samkat
Graham at Aston ?? -
Jonny Crean 30 Dec, 2018 AltLd
with James
with James
ladempsey 28 Dec, 2018 AltLd Only roped up for the final three pitches. Easier than expected. Nice route, over too quickly.
Only roped up for the final three pitches. Easier than expected. Nice route, over too quickly.
ice bank mice elf 28 Dec, 2018 AltLd
aharrison24 20 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S Fun adventure with a good bit of exposure.
Fun adventure with a good bit of exposure.
sam_owen41 19 Dec, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 18 Dec, 2018 2nd
kirstypallas 18 Dec, 2018 Lead
Hidden 17 Dec, 2018 2nd β
Hidden 17 Dec, 2018 2nd
millingworth3 17 Dec, 2018 2nd
dw.rob4 17 Dec, 2018 -
John Bunney 10 Dec, 2018 AltLd Such a good route. Don’t use the ladders, there is a 50m rap with plenty of gear to ab from. May need the odd nut, but seems well equipped. :)
Such a good route. Don’t use the ladders, there is a 50m rap with plenty of gear to ab from. May need the odd nut, but seems well equipped. :)
Memuna 24 Nov, 2018 Lead β Awesome all the way
Awesome all the way
tim91 22 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S Great day out! Soloed up to the point of the first bolted anchor, just before the traverse around the arete as it's easy ground. Ended up following the party ahead of us and went too far with the traverse, the guide book says 20m when in reality it's about 5m to the next bolted anchor before you start going up. The last two pitches are class!
Great day out! Soloed up to the point of the first bolted anchor, just before the traverse around the arete as it's easy ground. Ended up following the party ahead of us and went too far with the traverse, the guide book says 20m when in reality it's about 5m to the next bolted anchor before you start going up. The last two pitches are class!
Caris Mcknight 22 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
with tim91
with tim91
AlecHart 16 Nov, 2018 2nd
mjeffery 13 Nov, 2018 2nd rpt
ssutton 11 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S Soloed initial pitches, led the middle pitch of the final 3 pitches
Soloed initial pitches, led the middle pitch of the final 3 pitches
martin one 11 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
with ssutton
with ssutton
PieMan 9 Nov, 2018 2nd O/S
with David Smith
with David Smith
Alaina 7 Nov, 2018 Lead
with Laudi, jcdavy, neilmackie
with Laudi, jcdavy, neilmackie
jcdavy 7 Nov, 2018 AltLd
neilmackie 6 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Alaina, Laudi, Jack
with Alaina, Laudi, Jack
Laudi 6 Nov, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 6 Nov, 2018 Lead
southern_smit ?Nov, 2018 Lead
Hidden ?Nov, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 24 Oct, 2018 AltLd
Nibs 23 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Cracking outing, led 3rd and 5th
with zebidee
Cracking outing, led 3rd and 5th
with zebidee
zebidee 23 Oct, 2018 AltLd rpt Much better adventure today with Mike took 3:49 car-to-car. Great fun ... scrambled solo the 1st pitch, I took the 2nd & 4th pitches.
with Nibs
Much better adventure today with Mike took 3:49 car-to-car. Great fun ... scrambled solo the 1st pitch, I took the 2nd & 4th pitches.
with Nibs
Hidden 19 Oct, 2018 AltLd
danhaydnfitz 17 Oct, 2018 AltLd 5 pitches- swing leads with Jamie Waddington - led pitches 3 and 5
with Jamie Waddington
5 pitches- swing leads with Jamie Waddington - led pitches 3 and 5
with Jamie Waddington
MazElden ?Oct, 2018 Lead
Allterraindude 30 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Phil
with Phil
Hidden 4 Apr, 2018 2nd
Mark Eddy 4 Apr, 2018 Lead Along with Vicky, we took a team of 4 along this mini-expedition. Glorious conditions and a fun day
with Vicky F
Along with Vicky, we took a team of 4 along this mini-expedition. Glorious conditions and a fun day
with Vicky F
my 4 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S Caught up with Mark (Mountain Journeys) at the ab to say hello, then followed his group around the route... Excellent location and fun (but heady!) juggy climbing :)
with Joseph
Caught up with Mark (Mountain Journeys) at the ab to say hello, then followed his group around the route... Excellent location and fun (but heady!) juggy climbing :)
with Joseph
NebHappyrock 29 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Great day out, final pitch is still bolted with only a couple of nuts used to fill the gaps. First 2 pitches easily soloable. p1, 2, 3, 5
Great day out, final pitch is still bolted with only a couple of nuts used to fill the gaps. First 2 pitches easily soloable. p1, 2, 3, 5
Joe Homer 29 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Messed up simul-come-swing lead situation.
Messed up simul-come-swing lead situation.
LottieMilner 29 Mar, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 24 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
Sut 12 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
Adamnoblett 7 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Mark tricket
with Mark tricket
Trickett 7 Mar, 2018 AltLd
rkoelner 4 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S Amazing for the grade, and just too short. The traverses are very easy. Do not be tempted to traverse too far left (Rocfax mentions this as an option) as it gets harder and not secure (just one wire for ~15m traverse, which leads you to another stance build from some very old wires, and little idea what to do next). Do NOT use the ladder to go down, instead repel ~45m.
with Marcin Wodnicki
Amazing for the grade, and just too short. The traverses are very easy. Do not be tempted to traverse too far left (Rocfax mentions this as an option) as it gets harder and not secure (just one wire for ~15m traverse, which leads you to another stance build from some very old wires, and little idea what to do next). Do NOT use the ladder to go down, instead repel ~45m.
with Marcin Wodnicki
Hidden ?Mar, 2018 AltLd rpt
Mark Eddy 26 Feb, 2018 Lead With Sarah. The cave area around the ladders was really busy with people climbing the new sport routes. All looks mega steep. We had a good climb and the route to ourselves
With Sarah. The cave area around the ladders was really busy with people climbing the new sport routes. All looks mega steep. We had a good climb and the route to ourselves
HP9 16 Feb, 2018 AltLd rpt Solo p1&2 Lead p4
with Michael Samsel
Solo p1&2 Lead p4
with Michael Samsel
5eamuz 16 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
with GOS
with GOS
GOS 16 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Scary free ab. Scramble p1 and p2. I led p3 short 2 bolt traverse. Sramus p4 i p5 toughest but varied
with 5eamuz
Scary free ab. Scramble p1 and p2. I led p3 short 2 bolt traverse. Sramus p4 i p5 toughest but varied
with 5eamuz
robint12 5 Feb, 2018 2nd
with Tony Pearson
with Tony Pearson
Jonesoc 26 Jan, 2018 AltLd
ewanjp 5 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S Lovely climb which is now fully bolted, if rather adventurously. Nearly came a cropper when misread the topo after the third belay and went left another 20m and the straight up 15m a slightly overhanging wall. No gear whatsoever save a very old thread. Luckily Alice realised I'd gone the wrong way (I was pondering the down climb and calling the coastguard). Once I'd minced down and managed not to die, I got back on the actual route which was lovely and quite relaxing after my little miss adventure. Managed to get a cam in (a very small one) near the top of the final pitch but it didn't really need it. Pretty exposed but the moves seemed easier than those on 'wasp' which was a VS we did yesterday. The ab in was pretty full on!
with alicec
Lovely climb which is now fully bolted, if rather adventurously. Nearly came a cropper when misread the topo after the third belay and went left another 20m and the straight up 15m a slightly overhanging wall. No gear whatsoever save a very old thread. Luckily Alice realised I'd gone the wrong way (I was pondering the down climb and calling the coastguard). Once I'd minced down and managed not to die, I got back on the actual route which was lovely and quite relaxing after my little miss adventure. Managed to get a cam in (a very small one) near the top of the final pitch but it didn't really need it. Pretty exposed but the moves seemed easier than those on 'wasp' which was a VS we did yesterday. The ab in was pretty full on!
with alicec
meanderthal 3 Jan, 2018 AltLd an 80m rope +stretch just (!) reached the ground on the abseil. Cool little route if you like an adventure
an 80m rope +stretch just (!) reached the ground on the abseil. Cool little route if you like an adventure
Neverathome 1 Jan, 2018 AltLd
with Paul Calton
with Paul Calton
JWTM 31 Dec, 2017 AltLd Led first 4 pitches
Led first 4 pitches
Hidden 30 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 30 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S Excellent route - roasting today though.
with j_duds
Excellent route - roasting today though.
with j_duds
Elsier 29 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S First route of the trip. Impressive free hanging abseil in! Soloed the first two pitches and then lead pitches 3 and 5. Super exposure.
with AdrianC
First route of the trip. Impressive free hanging abseil in! Soloed the first two pitches and then lead pitches 3 and 5. Super exposure.
with AdrianC
Jessicacrump 29 Dec, 2017 AltLd
betathief 29 Dec, 2017 AltLd
hfotheri 28 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S Took a small rack but didn't need to place too much. Fun abseil!
with simon
Took a small rack but didn't need to place too much. Fun abseil!
with simon
Octavian 23 Dec, 2017 AltLd
bryan p 22 Dec, 2017 -
with James, Kay Dee
with James, Kay Dee
Hidden 22 Dec, 2017 2nd
Keith-Getoutadventures 21 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S Solo p1+2. Lead - P1, K2, P3, K4, P5
with Paul Calton
Solo p1+2. Lead - P1, K2, P3, K4, P5
with Paul Calton
tomaspkr 18 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
with vaiva
with vaiva
Hidden 7 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
chris2451 7 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
with DJayB
with DJayB
Hidden 30 Nov, 2017 2nd O/S
swmackey 30 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
Andy Williams 29 Nov, 2017 2nd
Smithy90 27 Nov, 2017 2nd
Hidden 23 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
Lianne.Sellors 21 Nov, 2017 2nd O/S
dmason1992 21 Nov, 2017 2nd O/S
chelle 13 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
ADEightyEight 13 Nov, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 3 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Nov, 2017 -
Hidden 31 Oct, 2017 2nd
Amy121 31 Oct, 2017 Lead bare foot!
bare foot!
Jeremy Wilton 20 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S Ha ha ha ha ha, lovely - but sizzling hot, drained and knackering!
with Richard Brown
Ha ha ha ha ha, lovely - but sizzling hot, drained and knackering!
with Richard Brown
zebidee 19 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S Bit of an Epic (with a capital E) ... Climbing was fine for Dave and me but Seamus has some problems when he dropped his belay device. Held back to the wait for them & eventually Gerry caught up with Dave and they got themselves sorted. Meanwhile I was hanging on the wall waiting for them in the full sun for two hours and was then last to get off the rock after 3 hours out!
with Gerry Magennis, niggle, Seamus Magennis
Bit of an Epic (with a capital E) ... Climbing was fine for Dave and me but Seamus has some problems when he dropped his belay device. Held back to the wait for them & eventually Gerry caught up with Dave and they got themselves sorted. Meanwhile I was hanging on the wall waiting for them in the full sun for two hours and was then last to get off the rock after 3 hours out!
with Gerry Magennis, niggle, Seamus Magennis
mus 19 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S
with Dad, zebidee
with Dad, zebidee
Jonny Crean 11 Oct, 2017 Lead
garygecko 8 Oct, 2017 AltLd
with Mo, James
with Mo, James
Jimbob64 8 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
with garygecko, Mo
with garygecko, Mo
MoWalker3 8 Oct, 2017 AltLd
with James, Doc
with James, Doc
Jim-Roberts-1987 6 Oct, 2017 2nd
with Gemmapan, Tony McPhillips
with Gemmapan, Tony McPhillips
Gemmapan 6 Oct, 2017 2nd
HP9 17 Apr, 2017 AltLd Soloed 1 & 2, led 3 & 5. Great little route , fully bolted. A few pesky seagulls around.
with Mark Hayes
Soloed 1 & 2, led 3 & 5. Great little route , fully bolted. A few pesky seagulls around.
with Mark Hayes
Hidden 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
emma1987 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with lukey13
with lukey13
arose 10 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with Miles Mconville, Scott Brooks, Linda
with Miles Mconville, Scott Brooks, Linda
rinda_ree 10 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Miles Mcconville, arose, Scott "Limes disease" Brooks
with Miles Mcconville, arose, Scott "Limes disease" Brooks
ads 6 Mar, 2017 -
Clare Dean 6 Mar, 2017 Lead β
with Arthur, Hannah, Adam
with Arthur, Hannah, Adam
Tony Holdsworth 28 Feb, 2017 AltLd
Mick r 28 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S
with Chris Gooder
with Chris Gooder
Martin Haworth 28 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S Great situation, super last two pitches. Took a small rack but it isn't necessary.
Great situation, super last two pitches. Took a small rack but it isn't necessary.
Hidden 15 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S
Chris Holmes 15 Feb, 2017 2nd
with Rich mayfield
with Rich mayfield
Amyola 15 Feb, 2017 2nd
pdamann 15 Feb, 2017 AltLd rpt Led the first proper pitch and the final pitch. Great conditions today!
Led the first proper pitch and the final pitch. Great conditions today!
Hidden 1 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S
Andy J Collins ?Feb, 2017 Lead
with Rich Mayfield
with Rich Mayfield
katie93 28 Jan, 2017 2nd O/S
with td72
with td72
td72 28 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S Great climb, even though it wasn't a super hot day it felt hot once we abseiled in as those south facing cliffs are a sun trap. we didn't quite solo the first couple of pitches instead moving together in a sort of alpine style but it would of defiantly been easier to solo. pitch 4 was the highlight for me. Also fully bolted and no need for a rack (which i carried through the whole climb). Used two 50m ropes.
with katie93
Great climb, even though it wasn't a super hot day it felt hot once we abseiled in as those south facing cliffs are a sun trap. we didn't quite solo the first couple of pitches instead moving together in a sort of alpine style but it would of defiantly been easier to solo. pitch 4 was the highlight for me. Also fully bolted and no need for a rack (which i carried through the whole climb). Used two 50m ropes.
with katie93
Hidden 16 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S
krispy_fish2000 13 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S
Paul Hy 12 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S Fantastic route in ideal weather. bolted but just need a small cam for the last move.
Fantastic route in ideal weather. bolted but just need a small cam for the last move.
Private Flounder 12 Jan, 2017 AltLd
with Paul Hy
with Paul Hy
Hidden 9 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S
birks3746 9 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Alice Browne
with Alice Browne
charlesmfrench 5 Jan, 2017 2nd rpt Now bolted!
with Anette
Now bolted!
with Anette
Hidden 4 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S
vaiva ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
mot1 31 Dec, 2016 AltLd rpt
with Jill
with Jill
Hidden 31 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Dec, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 29 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S
L.miura 29 Dec, 2016 AltLd Lead P1,2,3 & 4. Memorable day...
with Jennie Barrett
Lead P1,2,3 & 4. Memorable day...
with Jennie Barrett
Mark Eddy 26 Dec, 2016 2nd An afternoon climb with Miguel & Mila. Topped out as the sun set
An afternoon climb with Miguel & Mila. Topped out as the sun set
Steve Clegg 25 Dec, 2016 AltLd
with Ted, Steve S
with Ted, Steve S
Pete Nugent 21 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S Long free abseil with heavy 80m sports rope caused problems with tendency to invert; worth considering clipping climbing rope to harness rather than over shoulders to lower the centre of gravity. DM missed belay at end of p4, so we had an intermediate belay on the good ledge on p5. Overall, a very good day out!
with David Medcalf, Cathy Woodhead
Long free abseil with heavy 80m sports rope caused problems with tendency to invert; worth considering clipping climbing rope to harness rather than over shoulders to lower the centre of gravity. DM missed belay at end of p4, so we had an intermediate belay on the good ledge on p5. Overall, a very good day out!
with David Medcalf, Cathy Woodhead
kitch22 15 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S Pitches 1,3,5. Probably the best pitches of the route.
with Sebastian Kulikovsky
Pitches 1,3,5. Probably the best pitches of the route.
with Sebastian Kulikovsky
George_Surf 10 Dec, 2016 Lead rpt In the setting sun, no wind. Bit of a long walk in for rachel. Just made the abseil on an 80m. Pulled the big hand flake off p3 next to the 2nd bolt. It was big!
In the setting sun, no wind. Bit of a long walk in for rachel. Just made the abseil on an 80m. Pulled the big hand flake off p3 next to the 2nd bolt. It was big!
Mark Eddy 8 Dec, 2016 AltLd Climbed with George. Vicky & Edd hot on our heels. Lots of fun
with George Sanderson
Climbed with George. Vicky & Edd hot on our heels. Lots of fun
with George Sanderson
George_Surf 8 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S With mark, Vicky and Ed. Easy going. New resin staples make it safe. Took p1,3 and 5. Nice above the sea and felt quite easy. Some suspect rock...
With mark, Vicky and Ed. Easy going. New resin staples make it safe. Took p1,3 and 5. Nice above the sea and felt quite easy. Some suspect rock...
rachelpearce01 8 Dec, 2016 2nd O/S Recuperating .... A great route done in the setting sun. Just wish I could have been in less pain to have enjoyed it more. George pulled a huge rock out as it was wobbly
with George Sanderson
Recuperating .... A great route done in the setting sun. Just wish I could have been in less pain to have enjoyed it more. George pulled a huge rock out as it was wobbly
with George Sanderson
Hidden ?Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S
Ardo 25 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S Scrambled first 3 pitches, me - p4, power - p5
Scrambled first 3 pitches, me - p4, power - p5
the power 25 Nov, 2016 AltLd
with Ardo
with Ardo
sopaz 25 Nov, 2016 AltLd Awesome. Roped up for P3 onwards and lead P4.
Awesome. Roped up for P3 onwards and lead P4.
philippe orchard 24 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
with Kane
with Kane
erica 2 Nov, 2016 AltLd rpt Led pitches 2 and 4
Led pitches 2 and 4
Hidden 1 Nov, 2016 2nd rpt
Phil Mercer 1 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 1 Nov, 2016 AltLd rpt No drama this time and very enjoyable despite the heat
with erica
No drama this time and very enjoyable despite the heat
with erica
BushwackerBritz ?Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
with Thom Wright
with Thom Wright
Hidden 30 Oct, 2016 AltLd
featuresforfeet 30 Oct, 2016 AltLd Pitch lengths way off in guide description (they are much shorter in reality). Abseil is 45m long so take 2 ropes!
Pitch lengths way off in guide description (they are much shorter in reality). Abseil is 45m long so take 2 ropes!
carlh ?Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S A cracking seaside outing with an adventurous feel as a result of the abseil. Once the ropes are pulled through it is an easy scramble to pitch 3. The climbing is pretty straight forward and quite easy for the HVS 5a grade given. New bolts were in place when we climbed it, which is a bit of a shame in a way, as it would be a nice trad route. There are plenty of options for gear if and when the bolts become corroded again and it's still worth carrying a small rack. Great fun!
with John Makin
A cracking seaside outing with an adventurous feel as a result of the abseil. Once the ropes are pulled through it is an easy scramble to pitch 3. The climbing is pretty straight forward and quite easy for the HVS 5a grade given. New bolts were in place when we climbed it, which is a bit of a shame in a way, as it would be a nice trad route. There are plenty of options for gear if and when the bolts become corroded again and it's still worth carrying a small rack. Great fun!
with John Makin
Jack Manfredi 3 Jun, 2016 -
with Grandad, Dad
with Grandad, Dad
Nigel Bond 2 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Colin Hutton
with Colin Hutton
danieleaston 30 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S Great adventure, made more interesting by thunder and lightning hitting Calpe just as I got to the bottom of the abseil, and dive bombing seagulls throughout. There should really be a bird ban on this, we would have backed off if we weren't committed, saw some nests. Led apart from pitch 4, which Ruth dispatched with aplomb!
Great adventure, made more interesting by thunder and lightning hitting Calpe just as I got to the bottom of the abseil, and dive bombing seagulls throughout. There should really be a bird ban on this, we would have backed off if we weren't committed, saw some nests. Led apart from pitch 4, which Ruth dispatched with aplomb!
saz_b 30 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S Fun adventure. Added spice with thunder storm rolling in...but just missed us! Nice abseil. Start of route at two great big metal spikes. Solo'd p1,2,3 with rope over shoulder to move together to deter the annoyed seagulls - turns out they were protecting nests! Should be a warning. Lead p3,5. P3 exposed but only if you're not used to vs trad. Jugs. P4 was great fun. P5 really nice. No need for gear but was tempting to place near top out! Defo 3*.
with Stephane
Fun adventure. Added spice with thunder storm rolling in...but just missed us! Nice abseil. Start of route at two great big metal spikes. Solo'd p1,2,3 with rope over shoulder to move together to deter the annoyed seagulls - turns out they were protecting nests! Should be a warning. Lead p3,5. P3 exposed but only if you're not used to vs trad. Jugs. P4 was great fun. P5 really nice. No need for gear but was tempting to place near top out! Defo 3*.
with Stephane
monkeyru 30 Apr, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 22 Apr, 2016 2nd
Hotcake 22 Apr, 2016 Lead MP. 2 students
MP. 2 students
ed.vos100 22 Apr, 2016 2nd
Mike W 2 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Legs 1 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S Soloed the first two scrambles. Then I lead the travers, Mike up to the cave, then I had the top pitch. Very British coastal climb. Not as good as I was expecting. Probably max HS climbing. Abseil into space was fun though.
with Mike W
Soloed the first two scrambles. Then I lead the travers, Mike up to the cave, then I had the top pitch. Very British coastal climb. Not as good as I was expecting. Probably max HS climbing. Abseil into space was fun though.
with Mike W
Dervey 31 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Fully bolted. Not HVS, felt more like a bolted HS/VS
Fully bolted. Not HVS, felt more like a bolted HS/VS
Chriswallis2 31 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with Swedish
with Swedish
mlcumberlidge 26 Mar, 2016 2nd
spoonernz 26 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
gingerbex 25 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1,2 and 4. Should've led others too!!! Placed no trad gear. Approach shoes pitches 1 and 2
Led pitches 1,2 and 4. Should've led others too!!! Placed no trad gear. Approach shoes pitches 1 and 2
alastairbegley 25 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Nice atmospheric route. It's now fully bolted and a rack isn't required. Last pitch is certainly no longer hvs and didn't feel like uk 5a. http://mp-m.uk/HMuzm
Nice atmospheric route. It's now fully bolted and a rack isn't required. Last pitch is certainly no longer hvs and didn't feel like uk 5a. http://mp-m.uk/HMuzm
eduardo 22 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Mark H
with Mark H
Puckle 17 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S Interesting free ab in!
Interesting free ab in!
mjeffery 17 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with Puckle
with Puckle
Hidden 5 Mar, 2016 AltLd
mes32 1 Mar, 2016 AltLd rpt Led the odd pitches. Placed a few extra wires. Top pitch about HVS. Excellent again!
with Adam
Led the odd pitches. Placed a few extra wires. Top pitch about HVS. Excellent again!
with Adam
Hidden 1 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2016 AltLd
Mark Eddy 18 Feb, 2016 Lead Guiding this fine route with Jane & Pam. Great day with crashing waves to add to the atmosphere
Guiding this fine route with Jane & Pam. Great day with crashing waves to add to the atmosphere
Ken Taylor 6 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S
with Harry Salisbury
with Harry Salisbury
Small and weak ?Feb, 2016 AltLd
LRob 27 Jan, 2016 Lead
Hidden 26 Jan, 2016 2nd
Lea84 26 Jan, 2016 -
with Kate Ayres, Mark Eddy
with Kate Ayres, Mark Eddy
Mark Eddy 26 Jan, 2016 Lead With Kate & Leanne.
with KateA
With Kate & Leanne.
with KateA
PAJames ??, 2016 -
Hidden 24 Dec, 2015 AltLd
Alison Cairns 22 Dec, 2015 2nd A good outing. Initial traverse pitches have the odd bolt on the exposed bits but you need some gear for belays. We roped them as v friable rock. Last 2 pitches and belays now fully bolted and felt much the same grade although p4 is more sustained. .
with Andy W, Andy Cairns
A good outing. Initial traverse pitches have the odd bolt on the exposed bits but you need some gear for belays. We roped them as v friable rock. Last 2 pitches and belays now fully bolted and felt much the same grade although p4 is more sustained. .
with Andy W, Andy Cairns
Hidden 22 Dec, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 22 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S
twiggster 19 Dec, 2015 2nd O/S
with unslev
with unslev
Hidden 19 Dec, 2015 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 15 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S I lead the final pitch. It took a little effort to locate the ladders and figure where to abseil into - even I thought the wooden ladder looked dubious. Pleasant wandering, slowly increasing in difficulty.
I lead the final pitch. It took a little effort to locate the ladders and figure where to abseil into - even I thought the wooden ladder looked dubious. Pleasant wandering, slowly increasing in difficulty.
pearson9596 15 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Kat G-B, onlyfoddington
with Kat G-B, onlyfoddington
KittyKat 15 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S Abseil in past very old ladder. Traversed past the belay and ended up having to do a scary traverse back. Very cool route on the sea cliffs. Lead P3 and P4
with Michael Pearson, Dave Brock
Abseil in past very old ladder. Traversed past the belay and ended up having to do a scary traverse back. Very cool route on the sea cliffs. Lead P3 and P4
with Michael Pearson, Dave Brock
Kenhard 14 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S Stacked abseil with Rob. I led the first pitch and the scramble super easy, however very exposed and unprotected. Rob led the second into the hollow and a hanging belay. I led third very exposed around the arête into another hollow and hanging belay. Rob led the forth pitch, the first ascent onto a very good ledge as the sun was going down. I climbing up the final pitch through some testing (dehydrated) climbing to the top where Zim and twig had an anchor set up. Zim took the rope and belayed Rob up the last pitch before a swift jog to the car before we lost all light
with Rob Lowe
Stacked abseil with Rob. I led the first pitch and the scramble super easy, however very exposed and unprotected. Rob led the second into the hollow and a hanging belay. I led third very exposed around the arête into another hollow and hanging belay. Rob led the forth pitch, the first ascent onto a very good ledge as the sun was going down. I climbing up the final pitch through some testing (dehydrated) climbing to the top where Zim and twig had an anchor set up. Zim took the rope and belayed Rob up the last pitch before a swift jog to the car before we lost all light
with Rob Lowe
Mihkel 11 Dec, 2015 Lead O/S 5p. A fantastic mini adventure. A long ab in past some old death-ladders to a ledge system, which is followed easily to 3 good pitches that lead up & out.
5p. A fantastic mini adventure. A long ab in past some old death-ladders to a ledge system, which is followed easily to 3 good pitches that lead up & out.
Fenda 6 Dec, 2015 2nd O/S
louisnewman 1 Dec, 2015 Lead
louisnewman 29 Nov, 2015 Lead
Big_T 24 Nov, 2015 2nd O/S
dmorgan27 15 Nov, 2015 Lead A scary 30m free hanging abseil but then a wonderful route in a fantastic position where almost every move has you looking at the sea below as you place you feet.
with Terryl
A scary 30m free hanging abseil but then a wonderful route in a fantastic position where almost every move has you looking at the sea below as you place you feet.
with Terryl
Mark Eddy 13 Nov, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 13 Nov, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Nov, 2015 AltLd
tiga271 5 Nov, 2015 AltLd Led 3 and 5
with Dave
Led 3 and 5
with Dave
Tomp580 16 Sep, 2015 AltLd
Juan Ruiz 26 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead 2nd and 4th pitches. 4th and 5th pitches fully bolted.
with Pablo Perea
Lead 2nd and 4th pitches. 4th and 5th pitches fully bolted.
with Pablo Perea
Hidden 11 Apr, 2015 2nd
Stanners 10 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Swedish Fred, CreepingExcellence.
with Swedish Fred, CreepingExcellence.
Ian1001 23 Mar, 2015 AltLd
with Rib1356
with Rib1356
Rib1356 23 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Ian1001
with Ian1001
pdamann 17 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Joby and Ed went as the first pair. Nick and I followed. Of the last three proper pitches, I led P2. We just about got away with it: the rain came in as we climbed these pitches. The final pitch was absolutely drenched when we got to it. Ed lowered a rope for Nick to clip into. I seconded as normal. Climbed it fine, despite the conditions.
Joby and Ed went as the first pair. Nick and I followed. Of the last three proper pitches, I led P2. We just about got away with it: the rain came in as we climbed these pitches. The final pitch was absolutely drenched when we got to it. Ed lowered a rope for Nick to clip into. I seconded as normal. Climbed it fine, despite the conditions.
jamie ward 1 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Needed a few nuts for the unbolted top-out
with Shaun Blower
Needed a few nuts for the unbolted top-out
with Shaun Blower
Hidden 15 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
mes32 15 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S Rest-day comedy - 4 people, 4 ropes, leaders rotating clockwise. Easy climbing, no rack needed. Great fun.
with Sally, Caroline, Will
Rest-day comedy - 4 people, 4 ropes, leaders rotating clockwise. Easy climbing, no rack needed. Great fun.
with Sally, Caroline, Will
will_benfold 15 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S In a loop of four, rotating leads. Led P5
with Sally F, Caroline Culwick, mes32
In a loop of four, rotating leads. Led P5
with Sally F, Caroline Culwick, mes32
Mark Eddy ?Jan, 2015 Lead
annastudholme ?Jan, 2015 2nd
annastudholme ??, 2015 2nd
craig.england1 ??, 2015 AltLd An amazing view during the ab in. The traverse was nearly impossible to protect just a few boulders that a sling could be wrapped around but not particularly difficult. Biggest problem was the nesting seagulls they were not happy to see us. Last three pitches were a lot of fun.
An amazing view during the ab in. The traverse was nearly impossible to protect just a few boulders that a sling could be wrapped around but not particularly difficult. Biggest problem was the nesting seagulls they were not happy to see us. Last three pitches were a lot of fun.
LeeWood 30 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S fine objective for a rest day!
fine objective for a rest day!
Hidden 22 Dec, 2014 -
Martin Bennett 16 Dec, 2014 -
with AlanB, Ali
with AlanB, Ali
alpinismo.uk 12 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S Bizzarly arrived at the top with only one trainer!!! Had no recollection of seeing it en route or losing it?
Bizzarly arrived at the top with only one trainer!!! Had no recollection of seeing it en route or losing it?
redshapedfriday 12 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Debs Climber
with Debs Climber
steveprice.exmouth 4 Dec, 2014 AltLd
Steve Woollard 2 Dec, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 27 Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S
dmetcalfe 27 Nov, 2014 AltLd Nice traverse and nice final pitch.
Nice traverse and nice final pitch.
jvarmstrong 27 Nov, 2014 AltLd led p1,3 &5
with Chris
led p1,3 &5
with Chris
Chris Manasseh 27 Nov, 2014 AltLd Led 2 & 4
with John Armstrong
Led 2 & 4
with John Armstrong
Trev speariett 26 Nov, 2014 AltLd first 2 and last pitch
first 2 and last pitch
nicnac67 24 Nov, 2014 2nd
with Kevin
with Kevin
nick ferro 20 Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S Led Pitches 1, 2, 4, 5. Windy. Pitches 4 and 5 are stunning.
with Oli Birkill
Led Pitches 1, 2, 4, 5. Windy. Pitches 4 and 5 are stunning.
with Oli Birkill
mikestr555 10 Nov, 2014 Lead
Mark Eddy 28 Oct, 2014 AltLd Just the one bolt protects the initial easy pitch, then one more for the second pitch, then a good double bolt belay marks the start of the proper climbing. Thankfully the bolts have been placed sparingly so this still feels like a serious adventure. 3rd time on this route for me and still feels wonderful. Mid 30's C so sun / heatstroke going on by the time we were finished.
with Joe
Just the one bolt protects the initial easy pitch, then one more for the second pitch, then a good double bolt belay marks the start of the proper climbing. Thankfully the bolts have been placed sparingly so this still feels like a serious adventure. 3rd time on this route for me and still feels wonderful. Mid 30's C so sun / heatstroke going on by the time we were finished.
with Joe
Hidden 10 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
cdpuk 9 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Solo P1,2, lead P3,4,5. Amazing scenery and exposure for the grade. No need for any trad gear any more. P1 and 2 have bolts where needed and the rest are fully bolted.
Solo P1,2, lead P3,4,5. Amazing scenery and exposure for the grade. No need for any trad gear any more. P1 and 2 have bolts where needed and the rest are fully bolted.
andyevans 9 Oct, 2014 2nd O/S Great exposure on the sharp last pitch. First two can be solo'd as one move wonders. Take care as it's a real sun trap with 0% cover after the caves.
with cdpuk
Great exposure on the sharp last pitch. First two can be solo'd as one move wonders. Take care as it's a real sun trap with 0% cover after the caves.
with cdpuk
daveclarke5 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Stephen
with Stephen
aliclarke99 19 Apr, 2014 2nd dog
mikestr555 26 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S solo piches 1 & 2 lead pitch 5
solo piches 1 & 2 lead pitch 5
mrteale 22 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Wildstyle 11 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S Pitched 3,4 and. 5 bolted. Found the traverse on 3 exposed, climb a little high after bolt three and had to down climb. Used a couple of pieces of trad to protect the top out! A great climb, but get there early to avoid any queues! Lead 1,3 and 5!
Pitched 3,4 and. 5 bolted. Found the traverse on 3 exposed, climb a little high after bolt three and had to down climb. Used a couple of pieces of trad to protect the top out! A great climb, but get there early to avoid any queues! Lead 1,3 and 5!
Caroline 2010 11 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
craig naylor 3 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Tony
with Tony
RobSimpson 19 Jan, 2014 2nd
Felix Ottey 1 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S You really don't need a full rack as the first 2 pitches are really just a walk but the last pitch makes up for it! A gd day out! Although a few bolts where needed it still has the HVS feel :-) gd star to the year.
You really don't need a full rack as the first 2 pitches are really just a walk but the last pitch makes up for it! A gd day out! Although a few bolts where needed it still has the HVS feel :-) gd star to the year.
mot1 1 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S Lots of shiny new bolts no need for a rack. A great situation for a climb.
with Lucy
Lots of shiny new bolts no need for a rack. A great situation for a climb.
with Lucy
balloo1791 ??, 2014 -
Rich ??, 2014 -
Hidden 16 Dec, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 8 Nov, 2013 Lead dnf
Hidden ?Nov, 2013 Lead
Tom Hobbs 12 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
vix 11 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 1, 3 and 5. Exposed sea cliff fun:-)
Lead pitches 1, 3 and 5. Exposed sea cliff fun:-)
Hidden 11 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
J25 11 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
BenedictIEP 11 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S Led 1, 3 & 5. Awesome fun.
with Tom Hobbs
Led 1, 3 & 5. Awesome fun.
with Tom Hobbs
EllieWoods 19 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S
with Adam, Lucy
with Adam, Lucy
Stone Muppet 11 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S Bit loose in places but an amazing adventure
with ah
Bit loose in places but an amazing adventure
with ah
Mark Eddy ?Feb, 2013 Lead 2nd time round for me, showing Kate the delights of these amazing sea cliffs. Climbed previously with Susan Guest as an A/L Loads of fun on both occasions
with KateA
2nd time round for me, showing Kate the delights of these amazing sea cliffs. Climbed previously with Susan Guest as an A/L Loads of fun on both occasions
with KateA
Hidden ?Feb, 2013 2nd
Hidden 6 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Nov, 2012 2nd
chris smith 28 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 2012 AltLd
judith neaves 30 Mar, 2012 AltLd
Shaw Brown 30 Mar, 2012 Lead Very,very hot!
Very,very hot!
BelleVedere 13 Jan, 2012 2nd Wild abseil into space (they aren't lying about the ladders) sets the tone. Took about 4 hours
Wild abseil into space (they aren't lying about the ladders) sets the tone. Took about 4 hours
Mark Eddy 13 Jan, 2012 Lead
Sam_Marsland 13 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S
1918hasti 15 Nov, 2011 AltLd
Ash_Johnson ?Nov, 2011 Lead Very nice abb into it.
Very nice abb into it.
rgd1977 20 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S A fantastic adventure, exciting abseil, great views, sparse rusty gear, it has it all! Last two pitches are bolted where needed but a full rack was used, could not see any ENP's on the route, be careful not to tangle the ropes like I did around the rusty old ladders next to the abseil point! A must do.
A fantastic adventure, exciting abseil, great views, sparse rusty gear, it has it all! Last two pitches are bolted where needed but a full rack was used, could not see any ENP's on the route, be careful not to tangle the ropes like I did around the rusty old ladders next to the abseil point! A must do.
beckybray1 20 Mar, 2011 2nd
Martin Bennett 13 Dec, 2010 -
with Ali
with Ali
bigdan050 14 Nov, 2010 AltLd trad leads 2/5
with steve R, oz
trad leads 2/5
with steve R, oz
stvredmond 14 Nov, 2010 AltLd brilliant day out, the ab in sets the scene for the rest of the route.
with Dan
brilliant day out, the ab in sets the scene for the rest of the route.
with Dan
stanman ?Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S take plenty of water and make sure its not in the 30,s. fine position fine last pitch.abseil.wow
with si rackley
take plenty of water and make sure its not in the 30,s. fine position fine last pitch.abseil.wow
with si rackley
Hidden ?May, 2010 Lead
Hidden 2 Apr, 2010 2nd dnf
seeroo 20 Jan, 2010 2nd O/S
with Scone
with Scone
auld al ?Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S used the ENPs for belaying at one point (couldn't see much else there) and the top pitch is a lot shorter than stated
used the ENPs for belaying at one point (couldn't see much else there) and the top pitch is a lot shorter than stated
Hidden ??, 2010 -
hedgehog77 ?Dec, 2009 Lead O/S Really good climb, worth the visit to Calpe.
Really good climb, worth the visit to Calpe.
JWB 4 Nov, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Charles
with Charles
Hidden 26 Dec, 2008 Lead RP
bigrob ?Dec, 2008 Lead dont take a full rack a couple a hexes and some nuts is plenty!
with caz neely
dont take a full rack a couple a hexes and some nuts is plenty!
with caz neely
TonyP 10 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Nic
with Nic
barni 1 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
with tom machine
with tom machine
Hidden 26 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
Peter Metcalfe 29 Jan, 2008 AltLd Easy to run the two pitches after the traverse together in order to reach the cave before the crux. Seem to be some new bolts on the 5 section of this before reaching the prominent recess.
with Jenn Burt
Easy to run the two pitches after the traverse together in order to reach the cave before the crux. Seem to be some new bolts on the 5 section of this before reaching the prominent recess.
with Jenn Burt
Jakey4060 ?Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S When scorchio.....take water!
When scorchio.....take water!
Julie Carroll ?May, 2007 AltLd
with Rich Mayfield, Carole Dawson
with Rich Mayfield, Carole Dawson
SteveM 31 Dec, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Corky
with Corky
Hidden 28 Dec, 2006 2nd O/S
Chris the Tall 23 Nov, 2006 AltLd Soloed the first 2 pitchs (both 3), led 3rd (4) and 5th (5), Nick led 4th (4). A fine way to finish the trip
Soloed the first 2 pitchs (both 3), led 3rd (4) and 5th (5), Nick led 4th (4). A fine way to finish the trip
Hidden 23 Nov, 2006 AltLd O/S
Sylvi 17 Nov, 2006 2nd
CJE 16 Oct, 2006 AltLd O/S Neill led first proper pitch, Ines led P2 and I led P3.
with Ines Clergue & Neill McMullan
Neill led first proper pitch, Ines led P2 and I led P3.
with Ines Clergue & Neill McMullan
Hidden 24 Mar, 2006 Lead
Hidden ?Jan, 2006 AltLd β
Hidden 17 Oct, 2005 AltLd
Shaw Brown 29 Apr, 2005 2nd
Peter Metcalfe 29 Apr, 2005 Lead Move together or solo the first three pitches. Watch out for the homicidal gulls in April!
with Kim Mason, Shaw Brown
Move together or solo the first three pitches. Watch out for the homicidal gulls in April!
with Kim Mason, Shaw Brown
John Brayshaw 17 Mar, 2005 Lead rpt Bit of an epic after the abseil incident
with erica
Bit of an epic after the abseil incident
with erica
erica 17 Mar, 2005 2nd An eventful climb, done in difficult circumstances. Will repeat on future visit.
An eventful climb, done in difficult circumstances. Will repeat on future visit.
The Reaper 7 Mar, 2005 AltLd O/S
220bpm 4 Nov, 2004 AltLd O/S Good fun but shorter than we expected.
with Dave
Good fun but shorter than we expected.
with Dave
Hidden ?Oct, 2004 AltLd O/S
shaun walby 22 Mar, 2004 Lead led the top pitch VS5a
led the top pitch VS5a
Hidden 24 Jan, 2004 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead
TimPerkin 25 Nov, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Mark Perkin, Richard Harris, Dave Green
with Mark Perkin, Richard Harris, Dave Green
GavinB ?Nov, 2003 Lead O/S
Spillers ?Sep, 2003 Lead
with Randy
with Randy
Hidden 20 Mar, 2003 2nd
Mark Riley ?Mar, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Sandra Evans
with Sandra Evans
whispering nic ?Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
with The Wife
with The Wife
Goody 22 Feb, 2003 2nd O/S
with Mark Jarvis
with Mark Jarvis
Hidden ??, 2003 AltLd
chrishedgehog 25 Apr, 2002 AltLd O/S
with Joe Thompson
with Joe Thompson
chris skipton 20 Mar, 2002 AltLd O/S A great day out. The free ab , the traversing, the sun, oh the sun! Boiled up on the key pitch waiting for a team in front, but then full thrust for the top, with minimal gear insitu/to place VS5a.Exciting and rewarding. Understand the route was later fully equipped. Why??!!. Good adventure climbing watered down for Groups??
A great day out. The free ab , the traversing, the sun, oh the sun! Boiled up on the key pitch waiting for a team in front, but then full thrust for the top, with minimal gear insitu/to place VS5a.Exciting and rewarding. Understand the route was later fully equipped. Why??!!. Good adventure climbing watered down for Groups??
John Brayshaw 20 Mar, 2002 AltLd O/S
dickypips 2 Feb, 2001 Lead O/S
with Steve James
with Steve James
Hidden 5 Dec, 2000 AltLd
cem 1 Dec, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Miles Butteriss
with Miles Butteriss
Shaw Brown 15 Mar, 2000 Lead O/S
with cliff brown
with cliff brown
charlesmfrench 28 Apr, 1998 AltLd dog
Hidden 14 Apr, 1998 AltLd
Hidden 24 Dec, 1997 AltLd
Hidden 24 Dec, 1997 AltLd O/S
craig h 17 Apr, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
with Janet Hannah
BobbyMotherwell ?Apr, 1997 -
with Colin Donnelly, Eric Horne
with Colin Donnelly, Eric Horne
Darron ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
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Voting
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set