UKC

160m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HVS. A popular mini-expedition. There is some fixed gear where most needed, but take a rack. Approach by walking right (looking out) from the base of the ladders. Competent climbers will find the first 2 pitches solo-able however, if unsure, rope up.
1) 3, 25m. Traverse left to the Arete and then left again, descending into a cave.
Walk/scramble left across ledges to the left edge of the cave and step around onto a good ledge.
2) 3, 10m. Climb the wide crack on the left to a ledge then drop down left into a hollow.
3) 4a, 20m. Traverse left to the Arete and climb round into a scoop. Pull past the overlap into a larger scoop. Old bolts.
4) 4a, 25m. Traverse right to the Arete and climb this, trending right at the top, to a ledge. Belay here or continue traversing right into the next cave, poor bolt and gear to belay.
5) 5a, 40m. A fine exposed pitch - about HVS 5a. Climb right and up into the next cave then left onto the Arete and up to a good ledge. Move right, climb the groove, moving right at its top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The abseil in is around 50m - double ropes needed, or leave a single rope in place and collect it later.
May be fully bolted now?

FA. R.Edwards 1986. Climbed solo, bolts placed later..

Ticklists

Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List , Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes , ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa Blanca 25 by 2025 , Adventure ticklist 2018 , Costa blanca 2022 , Costa Blanca 2022 , Costa Blanca 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
JamesAlexanderTurnbull 1 Mar Show βeta
βeta: The 3 pitches of actual climbing all bolted, a little spaced in places but all where you want them. Probably worth having a few wires if needed on the scrambled at the start of the end of the last pitch.
βeta?
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βeta: The 3 pitches of actual climbing all bolted, a little spaced in places but all where you want them. Probably worth having a few wires if needed on the scrambled at the start of the end of the last pitch.
kateslattery 13 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: We used 2 60s for the ab and put one away for the climbing. Using the other one in half was JUST enough for the last pitch.
βeta?
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βeta: We used 2 60s for the ab and put one away for the climbing. Using the other one in half was JUST enough for the last pitch.
tribolt 15 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Super fun climb! We missed that part of beta that it's a 45m abseil and used a 70m rope. Staying close to the sketchy ladder (by holding it during the rappel) allowed us to lower to higher ground (around 36m from the top) than the straight abseil (as mentioned 45m). With the rope stretch, we still had about a meter of rope left after touching the ground. A bit nerve-wracking, but doable with one dynamic 70m. But not recommended.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Super fun climb! We missed that part of beta that it's a 45m abseil and used a 70m rope. Staying close to the sketchy ladder (by holding it during the rappel) allowed us to lower to higher ground (around 36m from the top) than the straight abseil (as mentioned 45m). With the rope stretch, we still had about a meter of rope left after touching the ground. A bit nerve-wracking, but doable with one dynamic 70m. But not recommended.
gav 2 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: All climbing pitches can be done on a 60m rope in half (I.e 30m), as that's what the pair ahead of us used or a 70m with one tied in the middle worked fine for our party of 3. Bolts are there on the last 3 pitches but widely spaced. With all the loose rock, there's not that much opportunity for trad gear in these pitches either, except the finishing crack which isn't any more run out than the rest of the route. Early pitches are only protected by (high) starting bolts of other climbs, but gear can be placed on these pitches.
Show beta
βeta: All climbing pitches can be done on a 60m rope in half (I.e 30m), as that's what the pair ahead of us used or a 70m with one tied in the middle worked fine for our party of 3. Bolts are there on the last 3 pitches but widely spaced. With all the loose rock, there's not that much opportunity for trad gear in these pitches either, except the finishing crack which isn't any more run out than the rest of the route. Early pitches are only protected by (high) starting bolts of other climbs, but gear can be placed on these pitches.
Stanley 25 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: What a brilliant route. The real consistent climbing starts at pitch 4 and then there are three brilliant pitches to the top. A really enjoyable couple of hours and well worth doing on a nice day with a stunning backdrop. The very first belay has a very chafed loop of rope that I assume various people have been using as a handrail - it is absolutely not needed just careful not to grab it and have it pop off. I was a bit nervous about reports of spaced bolts so I took a full rack. This turned out to be overkill as I only placed two bits of gear on the whole route. This was right at the top of the final pitch - a number 9 nut and a 0.3 cam in the crack. I didn't feel like these were essential but I had to justify carrying everything and also it is slightly run out without them. Small wires would also work in the crack. There is a football sized block below the crack that feels quite loose - I'm sure it has felt that way for a couple of decades but go easy on it! 2 x 60m ropes were sufficient to ab in on. Thanks to Al and team for letting us slide down on theirs as they were leaving them in situ.
Show beta
βeta: What a brilliant route. The real consistent climbing starts at pitch 4 and then there are three brilliant pitches to the top. A really enjoyable couple of hours and well worth doing on a nice day with a stunning backdrop. The very first belay has a very chafed loop of rope that I assume various people have been using as a handrail - it is absolutely not needed just careful not to grab it and have it pop off. I was a bit nervous about reports of spaced bolts so I took a full rack. This turned out to be overkill as I only placed two bits of gear on the whole route. This was right at the top of the final pitch - a number 9 nut and a 0.3 cam in the crack. I didn't feel like these were essential but I had to justify carrying everything and also it is slightly run out without them. Small wires would also work in the crack. There is a football sized block below the crack that feels quite loose - I'm sure it has felt that way for a couple of decades but go easy on it! 2 x 60m ropes were sufficient to ab in on. Thanks to Al and team for letting us slide down on theirs as they were leaving them in situ.
JamesAlexanderTurnbull 6 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: All now fully bolted with glue ins so a much easier under taking.
βeta?
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βeta: All now fully bolted with glue ins so a much easier under taking.
steve2006 9 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: top section of abseil has via-ferrata bent steel steps (lower section has rusty ladder you cannot see from the top). pitches 1,2 have no belay bolts we did them alpin-style with 12meter of rope between us. Belays at start of each pitch 4,5,6 have two cemented bolts and many new bolts exist but feel far apart, especially the last bolt but there's a long crack to place wires/cam for the final 4meters.
Show beta
βeta: top section of abseil has via-ferrata bent steel steps (lower section has rusty ladder you cannot see from the top). pitches 1,2 have no belay bolts we did them alpin-style with 12meter of rope between us. Belays at start of each pitch 4,5,6 have two cemented bolts and many new bolts exist but feel far apart, especially the last bolt but there's a long crack to place wires/cam for the final 4meters.
shlee 26 Feb, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: All the tough sections are reasonably well protected with bolts, took a small rack but didnt place any gear!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: All the tough sections are reasonably well protected with bolts, took a small rack but didnt place any gear!
Tall Oak 15 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Poor Swanny I took the leap and went past the good bolts on the end of P4 and into the cave. Wouldnt recommend in all honesty. Also took the arete around P3 too high which lead to a nails down climb and quite intimidating. P5 for me was the money pitch and really enjoyed it. Brilliant weather and a grand day out. Cheers Swanny for sticking with me.
βeta?
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βeta: Poor Swanny I took the leap and went past the good bolts on the end of P4 and into the cave. Wouldnt recommend in all honesty. Also took the arete around P3 too high which lead to a nails down climb and quite intimidating. P5 for me was the money pitch and really enjoyed it. Brilliant weather and a grand day out. Cheers Swanny for sticking with me.
GaryK 9 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: All belays are bolted, with bolt runners on most pitches. Take small cams for top 10m of last pitch, (Friend 1), quicker than placing a wire.
Show beta
βeta: All belays are bolted, with bolt runners on most pitches. Take small cams for top 10m of last pitch, (Friend 1), quicker than placing a wire.
jackdimples1 3 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Bolted for entirety, except for one nut required at the top of the last pitch - don’t bother taking a large rack.
Show beta
βeta: Bolted for entirety, except for one nut required at the top of the last pitch - don’t bother taking a large rack.
Melissa11 5 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 45m ab
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 45m ab
JimOakleyAdventures 1 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax has some anomalies !! 25 mins walk on cairned path 45 m abseil Pitch 1 & 2 easy scramble P3 is only 10m around the airy arête - stay low and climb up into scoop. P4 - look up and right, you’ll see the first two bolts as you pull over the feature P5 - is only 25n not 40m ! Placed one nut 3 hours car to car Belays are new bolts They is the odd set of bolts leading up to the right whilst Scrambling in to get to P3, don’t be mistaken and climb these as some teams have !
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax has some anomalies !! 25 mins walk on cairned path 45 m abseil Pitch 1 & 2 easy scramble P3 is only 10m around the airy arête - stay low and climb up into scoop. P4 - look up and right, you’ll see the first two bolts as you pull over the feature P5 - is only 25n not 40m ! Placed one nut 3 hours car to car Belays are new bolts They is the odd set of bolts leading up to the right whilst Scrambling in to get to P3, don’t be mistaken and climb these as some teams have !
mountaindavet 18 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Spaced bolts and quite serious overall. The HVS grade would be more relevant.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Spaced bolts and quite serious overall. The HVS grade would be more relevant.
Zoomer 29 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Sportingly placed bolts!
Show beta
βeta: Sportingly placed bolts!
RedBandit 17 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First 3 pitches are all scramble-able. Pitch 4 seems to start closer to the “4” (route grade) in the guide book picture. Pitch 5 is fully bolted. Final pitch may need smallish cams for a piece of mind or for your less confident climbing buddy to pull on. Otherwise the first half has plenty bolts and the 2nd half has slightly spaced out bolts but bomber holds.
Show beta
βeta: First 3 pitches are all scramble-able. Pitch 4 seems to start closer to the “4” (route grade) in the guide book picture. Pitch 5 is fully bolted. Final pitch may need smallish cams for a piece of mind or for your less confident climbing buddy to pull on. Otherwise the first half has plenty bolts and the 2nd half has slightly spaced out bolts but bomber holds.
ZacMoss 9 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Now almost completely bolted, apart from the last crack at the end of p5. Bring a cam or two.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Now almost completely bolted, apart from the last crack at the end of p5. Bring a cam or two.
Nick Smith - Climbers 28 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A brilliant adventure, but very spaced gear!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A brilliant adventure, but very spaced gear!
brianrunner 16 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A good route with exciting situations but is a bit scary with poor pro and some loose rock. I couldn't work out the ENP thingies. We belayed at 'the next cave' after pitch 4 and the final pitch was only about 25m. The hard part on pitch 5 is the arete for about 5m- it is easier after that. I second the view that leaving an abseil rope in place is a good idea in case escape is required. Its an abseil of a little under 45m down to the ledge. Final point- we did it yesterday 15/04/05 and there are lots of nesting gulls and eggs on the route and if we new that in advance we wouldn't have climbed it, so I would recommend leaving it during nesting season.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good route with exciting situations but is a bit scary with poor pro and some loose rock. I couldn't work out the ENP thingies. We belayed at 'the next cave' after pitch 4 and the final pitch was only about 25m. The hard part on pitch 5 is the arete for about 5m- it is easier after that. I second the view that leaving an abseil rope in place is a good idea in case escape is required. Its an abseil of a little under 45m down to the ledge. Final point- we did it yesterday 15/04/05 and there are lots of nesting gulls and eggs on the route and if we new that in advance we wouldn't have climbed it, so I would recommend leaving it during nesting season.
Dnmn 6 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Such is the quality of gear and exposure on this route that a couple of climbers from Calpe attempted to escape from the area by climbing the ladders, having abbed in and pulled the ropes through. We plucked them from the top of the second ladder as they were trying to find a way out. Moral? Leave ab ropes in place, or take your swimming trunks, if not absolutely confident of success.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Such is the quality of gear and exposure on this route that a couple of climbers from Calpe attempted to escape from the area by climbing the ladders, having abbed in and pulled the ropes through. We plucked them from the top of the second ladder as they were trying to find a way out. Moral? Leave ab ropes in place, or take your swimming trunks, if not absolutely confident of success.
Dnmn 6 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The rock is not solid and the gear is sparse. Belays are ENPs and little else particularly on pitch 3
βeta?
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βeta: The rock is not solid and the gear is sparse. Belays are ENPs and little else particularly on pitch 3
Gripped 5 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Descend the fishermans ladder if you dare. No way ho zay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Descend the fishermans ladder if you dare. No way ho zay.

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Voting
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 82
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Espolón Limaban

Grade: 5a ***
(Sierra de Toix)

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