160m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HVS. A popular mini-expedition. There is some fixed gear where most needed, but take a rack. Approach by walking right (looking out) from the base of the ladders. Competent climbers will find the first 2 pitches solo-able however, if unsure, rope up.
1) 3, 25m. Traverse left to the Arete and then left again, descending into a cave.
Walk/scramble left across ledges to the left edge of the cave and step around onto a good ledge.
2) 3, 10m. Climb the wide crack on the left to a ledge then drop down left into a hollow.
3) 4, 20m. Traverse left to the Arete and climb round into a scoop. Pull past the overlap into a larger scoop. Old bolts.
4) 4, 25m. Traverse right to the Arete and climb this, trending right at the top, to a ledge. Belay here or continue traversing right into the next cave, poor bolt and gear to belay.
5) 5, 40m. A fine exposed pitch - about HVS 5a. Climb right and up into the next cave then left onto the Arete and up to a good ledge. Move right, climb the groove, moving right at its top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The abseil in is around 50m - double ropes needed, or leave a single rope in place and collect it later.

FA. R.Edwards 1986. Climbed solo, bolts placed later.

Ticklists: Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 16/Jan Lead O/S
Paul Hy 12/Jan AltLd O/S

Fantastic route in ideal weather. bolted but just need a small cam for the last move.

with Nick M
Private Flounder 12/Jan AltLd
with Paul Hy
Hidden 09/Jan AltLd O/S
birks3746 09/Jan AltLd O/S
with Alice Browne
charlesmfrench 05/Jan 2nd rpt

Now bolted!

with Anette
Blake 04/Jan AltLd O/S

Fully bolted now, so you don't need a rack and 'HVS' doesn't apply. Amazing abseil in, but would be much better as a solo on a warm evening. Climbing a bit short lived for the work involved.

Hidden 31/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
mot1 31/Dec/16 AltLd rpt
with Jill
Lyndsay Superclimber 29/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route! Great exposure for the grade and mainly well-bolted. A light rack was useful though. Led pitches 1,2,4&5.

with Ryan
L.miura 29/Dec/16 AltLd

Lead P1,2,3 & 4. Memorable day...

with Jennie Barrett
Mark Eddy 26/Dec/16 2nd

An afternoon climb with Miguel & Mila. Topped out as the sun set

Steve Clegg 25/Dec/16 AltLd
with Ted, Steve S
Pete Nugent 21/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Long free abseil with heavy 80m sports rope caused problems with tendency to invert; worth considering clipping climbing rope to harness rather than over shoulders to lower the centre of gravity. DM missed belay at end of p4, so we had an intermediate belay on the good ledge on p5. Overall, a very good day out!

with David Medcalf, Cathy Woodhead
kitch22 15/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3,5. Probably the best pitches of the route.

with Sebastian Kulikovsky
Hidden 10/Dec/16 Lead rpt
Mark Eddy 08/Dec/16 AltLd

Climbed with George. Vicky & Edd hot on our heels. Lots of fun

with George Sanderson
Hidden 08/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
rachelpearce01 08/Dec/16 2nd O/S

Recuperating .... A great route done in the setting sun. Just wish I could have been in less pain to have enjoyed it more. George pulled a huge rock out as it was wobbly

with George Sanderson
the power 25/Nov/16 AltLd
with neil
Ardo 25/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Scrambled first 3 pitches, me - p4, power - p5

sopaz 25/Nov/16 AltLd

Awesome. Roped up for P3 onwards and lead P4.

with Mackie
philippe orchard 24/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Kane
erica 02/Nov/16 AltLd rpt

Led pitches 2 and 4

with John
John Brayshaw 01/Nov/16 AltLd rpt

No drama this time and very enjoyable despite the heat

with Erica
Hidden 01/Nov/16 2nd rpt
Phil Mercer 01/Nov/16 Lead O/S
featuresforfeet 30/Oct/16 AltLd

Pitch lengths way off in guide description (they are much shorter in reality). Abseil is 45m long so take 2 ropes!

gabirca 06/Jun/16 -
Jack Manfredi 03/Jun/16 2nd
with grandad, Dad
Nigel Bond 02/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Colin Hutton
danieleaston 30/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Great adventure, made more interesting by thunder and lightning hitting Calpe just as I got to the bottom of the abseil, and dive bombing seagulls throughout. There should really be a bird ban on this, we would have backed off if we weren't committed, saw some nests. Led apart from pitch 4, which Ruth dispatched with aplomb!

with Ruth
saz_b 30/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Fun adventure. Added spice with thunder storm rolling in...but just missed us! Nice abseil. Start of route at two great big metal spikes. Solo'd p1,2,3 with rope over shoulder to move together to deter the annoyed seagulls - turns out they were protecting nests! Should be a warning. Lead p3,5. P3 exposed but only if you're not used to vs trad. Jugs. P4 was great fun. P5 really nice. No need for gear but was tempting to place near top out! Defo 3*.

with Stephane
monkeyru 30/Apr/16 AltLd
with Dan
Hotcake 22/Apr/16 Lead

MP. 2 students

Hidden 22/Apr/16 2nd
Mike W 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Legs 01/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Soloed the first two scrambles. Then I lead the travers, Mike up to the cave, then I had the top pitch. Very British coastal climb. Not as good as I was expecting. Probably max HS climbing. Abseil into space was fun though.

with Mike
Dervey 31/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Fully bolted. Not HVS, felt more like a bolted HS/VS

Chriswallis2 31/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Swedish
mlcumberlidge 26/Mar/16 2nd
spoonernz 26/Mar/16 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Nice atmospheric route. It's now fully bolted and a rack isn't required. Last pitch is certainly no longer hvs and didn't feel like uk 5a. http://mp-m.uk/HMuzm

gingerbex 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,2 and 4. Should've led others too!!! Placed no trad gear. Approach shoes pitches 1 and 2

mjeffery 17/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Ando
Puckle 17/Mar/16 2nd O/S

Interesting free ab in!

Hidden 05/Mar/16 AltLd
Hidden 01/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
mes32 01/Mar/16 AltLd rpt

Led the odd pitches. Placed a few extra wires. Top pitch about HVS. Excellent again!

with Adam
Hidden ?/Mar/16 AltLd
Mark Eddy 18/Feb/16 Lead

Guiding this fine route with Jane & Pam. Great day with crashing waves to add to the atmosphere

Ken Taylor 06/Feb/16 Lead O/S
with Harry Salisbury
LRob 27/Jan/16 Lead
Lea84 26/Jan/16 -
with Kate Ayres, Mark Eddy
Mark Eddy 26/Jan/16 Lead

With Kate & Leanne.

with Kate
Hidden 26/Jan/16 2nd
PAJames ??/2016 -
Tim Rodgers 24/Dec/15 AltLd
Hidden 22/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Dec/15 AltLd
Alison Cairns 22/Dec/15 2nd

A good outing. Initial traverse pitches have the odd bolt on the exposed bits but you need some gear for belays. We roped them as v friable rock. Last 2 pitches and belays now fully bolted and felt much the same grade although p4 is more sustained. .

with Andy W, Andy
Hidden 19/Dec/15 Lead O/S
twiggster 19/Dec/15 2nd O/S
with unslev
KittyKat 15/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Abseil in past very old ladder. Traversed past the belay and ended up having to do a scary traverse back. Very cool route on the sea cliffs. Lead P3 and P4

with Michael Pearson, Dave Brock
pearson9596 15/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
with Kat G-B, Dave Brock
onlyfoddington 15/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

I lead the final pitch. It took a little effort to locate the ladders and figure where to abseil into - even I thought the wooden ladder looked dubious. Pleasant wandering, slowly increasing in difficulty.

with Kat, Michael
bedmaster_3000 14/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Stacked abseil with Rob. I led the first pitch and the scramble super easy, however very exposed and unprotected. Rob led the second into the hollow and a hanging belay. I led third very exposed around the arête into another hollow and hanging belay. Rob led the forth pitch, the first ascent onto a very good ledge as the sun was going down. I climbing up the final pitch through some testing (dehydrated) climbing to the top where Zim and twig had an anchor set up. Zim took the rope and belayed Rob up the last pitch before a swift jog to the car before we lost all light

with Rob Lowe
Fenda 06/Dec/15 2nd O/S
louisnewman 01/Dec/15 Lead
louisnewman 29/Nov/15 Lead
Big_T 24/Nov/15 2nd O/S
dmorgan27 15/Nov/15 Lead

A scary 30m free hanging abseil but then a wonderful route in a fantastic position where almost every move has you looking at the sea below as you place you feet.

with Terryl
Hidden 13/Nov/15 Lead O/S
Mark Eddy 13/Nov/15 AltLd
Hidden 09/Nov/15 AltLd
tiga271 05/Nov/15 AltLd

Led 3 and 5

with Dave
Tomp580 16/Sep/15 AltLd
Juan Ruiz 26/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd and 4th pitches. 4th and 5th pitches fully bolted.

with Pablo Perea
Hidden 11/Apr/15 2nd
Stanners 10/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Swedish Fred, Andy G
pdamann 17/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Joby and Ed went as the first pair. Nick and I followed. Of the last three proper pitches, I led P2. We just about got away with it: the rain came in as we climbed these pitches. The final pitch was absolutely drenched when we got to it. Ed lowered a rope for Nick to clip into. I seconded as normal. Climbed it fine, despite the conditions.

jamie ward 01/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Needed a few nuts for the unbolted top-out

with Shaun Blower
mes32 15/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Rest-day comedy - 4 people, 4 ropes, leaders rotating clockwise. Easy climbing, no rack needed. Great fun.

with Sally, Caroline, Will
Hidden 15/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
will_benfold 15/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

In a loop of four, rotating leads. Led P5

with Sally Fitton, Caroline Culwick, Mary
craig.england1 ??/2015 AltLd

An amazing view during the ab in. The traverse was nearly impossible to protect just a few boulders that a sling could be wrapped around but not particularly difficult. Biggest problem was the nesting seagulls they were not happy to see us. Last three pitches were a lot of fun.

with Tom B
LeeWood 30/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

fine objective for a rest day!

Hidden 22/Dec/14 -
Martin Bennett 16/Dec/14 -
with AlanB, Ali
alpinismo.uk 12/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Bizzarly arrived at the top with only one trainer!!! Had no recollection of seeing it en route or losing it?

with Graham
redshapedfriday 12/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with Debs Climber
steveprice.exmouth 04/Dec/14 AltLd
with Steve Woollard
Woolly 02/Dec/14 AltLd
dmetcalfe 27/Nov/14 AltLd

Nice traverse and nice final pitch.

Chris Manasseh 27/Nov/14 AltLd

Led 2 & 4

with John Armstrong
Hidden 27/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
jvarmstrong 27/Nov/14 AltLd

led p1,3 &5

with Chris
Trev speariett 26/Nov/14 AltLd

first 2 and last pitch

nicnac67 24/Nov/14 2nd
with Kevin
nick ferro 20/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Led Pitches 1, 2, 4, 5. Windy. Pitches 4 and 5 are stunning.

with Oli Birkill
mikestr555 10/Nov/14 Lead
Mark Eddy 28/Oct/14 AltLd

Just the one bolt protects the initial easy pitch, then one more for the second pitch, then a good double bolt belay marks the start of the proper climbing. Thankfully the bolts have been placed sparingly so this still feels like a serious adventure. 3rd time on this route for me and still feels wonderful. Mid 30's C so sun / heatstroke going on by the time we were finished.

with Joe
Hidden 10/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
andyevans 09/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Great exposure on the sharp last pitch. First two can be solo'd as one move wonders. Take care as it's a real sun trap with 0% cover after the caves.

with cdpuk
cdpuk 09/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Solo P1,2, lead P3,4,5. Amazing scenery and exposure for the grade. No need for any trad gear any more. P1 and 2 have bolts where needed and the rest are fully bolted.

daveclarke5 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Stephen
aliclarke99 19/Apr/14 2nd dog
mikestr555 26/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

solo piches 1 & 2 lead pitch 5

mrteale 22/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Wildstyle 11/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Pitched 3,4 and. 5 bolted. Found the traverse on 3 exposed, climb a little high after bolt three and had to down climb. Used a couple of pieces of trad to protect the top out! A great climb, but get there early to avoid any queues! Lead 1,3 and 5!

Caroline 2010 11/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with lgp81
craig naylor 03/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Tony
RobSimpson 19/Jan/14 2nd
Felix Ottey 01/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

You really don't need a full rack as the first 2 pitches are really just a walk but the last pitch makes up for it! A gd day out! Although a few bolts where needed it still has the HVS feel :-) gd star to the year.

mot1 01/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Lots of shiny new bolts no need for a rack. A great situation for a climb.

with Lucy
balloo1791 ??/2014 -
Rich ??/2014 -
Hidden 16/Dec/13 AltLd
Hidden 08/Nov/13 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Nov/13 Lead
BenedictIEP 11/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Led 1, 3 & 5. Awesome fun.

with Tom Hobbs
Hidden 11/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
J25 11/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
vix 11/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1, 3 and 5. Exposed sea cliff fun:-)

with chris
EllieWoods 19/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Adam, Lucy
Stone Muppet 11/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Bit loose in places but an amazing adventure

with ah
Mark Eddy ?/Feb/13 Lead

2nd time round for me, showing Kate the delights of these amazing sea cliffs. Climbed previously with Susan Guest as an A/L Loads of fun on both occasions

with Kate
Hidden ?/Feb/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/12 2nd
chris smith 28/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/12 AltLd
Shaw Brown 30/Mar/12 Lead

Very,very hot!

BelleVedere 13/Jan/12 2nd

Wild abseil into space (they aren't lying about the ladders) sets the tone. Took about 4 hours

Sam_Marsland 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Mark Eddy 13/Jan/12 Lead
Hidden 17/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
1918hasti 15/Nov/11 AltLd
Ash_Johnson ?/Nov/11 Lead

Very nice abb into it.

rgd1977 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

A fantastic adventure, exciting abseil, great views, sparse rusty gear, it has it all! Last two pitches are bolted where needed but a full rack was used, could not see any ENP's on the route, be careful not to tangle the ropes like I did around the rusty old ladders next to the abseil point! A must do.

beckybray1 20/Mar/11 2nd
Martin Bennett 13/Dec/10 -
with Ali
stvredmond 14/Nov/10 AltLd

brilliant day out, the ab in sets the scene for the rest of the route.

with Dan
bigdan050 14/Nov/10 AltLd

trad leads 2/5

with steve R, oz
stanman ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

take plenty of water and make sure its not in the 30,s. fine position fine last pitch.abseil.wow

with si rackley
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden 02/Apr/10 2nd dnf
seeroo 20/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with Scone
auld al ?/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

used the ENPs for belaying at one point (couldn't see much else there) and the top pitch is a lot shorter than stated

Hidden ??/2010 -
hedgehog77 ?/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Really good climb, worth the visit to Calpe.

JWB 04/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
with Charles
Hidden 26/Dec/08 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Dec/08 Lead
TonyP 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Nic
barni 01/May/08 AltLd O/S
with tom machine
Hidden 26/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Peter Metcalfe 29/Jan/08 AltLd

Easy to run the two pitches after the traverse together in order to reach the cave before the crux. Seem to be some new bolts on the 5 section of this before reaching the prominent recess.

with Jenn Burt
Jakey4060 ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

When scorchio.....take water!

Julie Carroll ?/May/07 AltLd
with Rich Mayfield, Carole Dawson
SteveM 31/Dec/06 AltLd O/S
with Corky
Hidden 28/Dec/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
Chris the Tall 23/Nov/06 AltLd

Soloed the first 2 pitchs (both 3), led 3rd (4) and 5th (5), Nick led 4th (4). A fine way to finish the trip

Sylvi 17/Nov/06 2nd
with Andy L
CJE 16/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

Neill led first proper pitch, Ines led P2 and I led P3.

with Ines Clergue & Neill McMullan
Hidden 24/Mar/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/06 AltLd β
Hidden 17/Oct/05 AltLd
Shaw Brown 29/Apr/05 2nd
Peter Metcalfe 29/Apr/05 Lead

Move together or solo the first three pitches. Watch out for the homicidal gulls in April!

with Kim Mason, Shaw Brown
erica 17/Mar/05 2nd

An eventful climb, done in difficult circumstances. Will repeat on future visit.

with John
John Brayshaw 17/Mar/05 Lead rpt

Bit of an epic after the abseil incident

with Erica
The Reaper 07/Mar/05 AltLd O/S
220bpm 04/Nov/04 AltLd O/S

Good fun but shorter than we expected.

with Dave
Hidden ?/Oct/04 AltLd O/S
shaun walby 22/Mar/04 Lead

led the top pitch VS5a

Hidden 24/Jan/04 AltLd
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
TimPerkin 25/Nov/03 AltLd O/S
with Mark Perkin, Richard Harris, Dave Green
Spillers ?/Sep/03 Lead
with Randy
Hidden 20/Mar/03 2nd
whispering nic ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with The Wife
Mark Riley ?/Mar/03 AltLd O/S
with Sandra Evans
Goody 22/Feb/03 2nd O/S
with Mark Jarvis
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
chrishedgehog 25/Apr/02 AltLd O/S
with Joe Thompson
John Brayshaw 20/Mar/02 AltLd O/S
with Chris
dickypips 02/Feb/01 Lead O/S
with Steve James
csalvage 05/Dec/00 AltLd
with Bryan
cem 01/Dec/00 AltLd O/S
with Miles Butteriss
Shaw Brown 15/Mar/00 Lead O/S
with cliff brown
charlesmfrench 28/Apr/98 AltLd dog
Hidden 14/Apr/98 AltLd
Hidden 24/Dec/97 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Dec/97 AltLd
craig h 17/Apr/97 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
BobbyMotherwell ?/Apr/97 -
with Colin Donnelly, Eric Horne
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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Voting
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set