UKC

60m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing classic which takes you to places not usually found on a 6a+. The route is very exposed and intimidating but technically relatively straightforward but don't underestimate it! Unfortunately the bolts are already showing their age.

1) 5+. Follow the steep (sometimes greasy) rock up the left-hand wall above the deep slot. Belay on bolts on the bridge.
2) 6a+. Climb direct above the belay on good-but-hidden holds - spaced bolts. Hand traverse right to a hanging stance.
3) 6a. Make a tricky move up left then revel in the superb position rising up leftwards to the exit hole © Rockfax

Rich Mayfield

Ticklists: Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50, Costa Blanca 25 by 2025, Adventure ticklist 2018.


ClimberDateStyle
Mark Eddy 10/Jan 2nd
with Kim Jackson, Neil
betathief 07/Jan Lead

Few rests enroute, first shit myself moment in a while, great atmosphere!

Hidden 05/Jan Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jan AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Mark Eddy 25/Dec/17 Lead

So happy to return to climb this classic again. Absolutely brilliant. Busy today, 3 teams ahead of us and more at the top.

with Kate
Mark Eddy 13/Dec/17 Lead

Brilliant route that fully deserves 3 stars. The abseil sets the scene. Spaced bolts throughout so no need to carry many quickdraws. Loved it

with Ann Leese
DJayB 07/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

¡Welcome to Gogarth! Did in three pitches to fully milk the time spent on this excellent route. 3rd pitch is definitely harder than the 2nd, ?6a then 6a+

chris2451 07/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
George_Surf 05/Dec/17 Lead O/S

Awesome! Easily made it to the floor on the lower ring on the 100m. The abseil must be about 50m from the top. Climbed the whole route in a oner, about 60m clipping 14 draws (some extenders and a sling). Felt like climbing at gogarth, plenty of atmosphere and the route is never very difficult.

rachelpearce01 05/Dec/17 Lead O/S
rachelpearce01 05/Dec/17 2nd rpt
Whitmoreaa 03/Dec/17 AltLd
Hidden 03/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
swmackey 30/Nov/17 Lead O/S
Bones [:B 13/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

First and third pitch on lead.

guy127917 13/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
with Jen
quickdrawmcraw 31/Oct/17 2nd
with Amy121
Amy121 31/Oct/17 Lead
with Matt
garygecko 08/Oct/17 AltLd
with Mo, James
Jimbob64 08/Oct/17 AltLd O/S

Epic!

with Mo, Andrew
MoWalker3 08/Oct/17 AltLd
with James, Doc
arose 10/Apr/17 AltLd

Amazing

mattmuller 28/Mar/17 2nd
with Chris Coapes
Hidden 28/Mar/17 Lead
mike fenwick 28/Mar/17 Lead
with Jonathon Sims
stephm 21/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

ace climb last pitch had some good moves

with bram
BTphonehome 21/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

P1&3. What a place! Great fun.

with Steph
Clare Dean 09/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
with Sam2257
Sam2257 09/Mar/17 Lead O/S

incredible location and surprisingly good climbing. yyaaarrr!!

rachelpearce01 08/Mar/17 2nd O/S
with Lars and Nora
Chris Holmes 15/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
with Rich mayfield
Amyola 15/Feb/17 2nd β
Rooney90 ?/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Andy J Collins ?/Feb/17 Lead
with Rich Mayfield
Hidden 16/Jan/17 Lead O/S
krispy_fish2000 13/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
with Dave Harding
Hidden 09/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
birks3746 09/Jan/17 AltLd O/S

Amazing, great day out. Matt introduced his ventriloquism farting abilities

with Alice Browne
Hidden 04/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
metrorat 01/Jan/17 Lead O/S

Fun route in a stunning setting. Abseiling into the grotto is possibly the highlight. Good climbing, 3rd pitch is probably harder than the second. All over too quickly though, good for a rest day :)

with Amy Wight
Aminious 01/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
with Jonny livesey
Kdk9788 01/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
mot1 31/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
with Lucy, Jill
Hidden 31/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
Tim Rodgers 29/Dec/16 AltLd
Alison Cairns 26/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. Shiny new bolts and perfect conditions. I led p1 & p3 (which felt harder than p2 - both easy 6a+?)

with Nikki H, Paul Scott
Mackinclimb 26/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Great adventure. The abseil is the scariest bit!

sopaz 25/Nov/16 AltLd

Lead P1 and 3. Recently re-bolted so no issue with gear - placed one nut at the top of P1. Very intimidating setting and abseil but the climbing is actually straightforward and enjoyable. Dogged P1 to chalk up as found it ridiculously greasy (could blame suncream...)

with Mackie
Gorilla62 04/Oct/16 Lead dnf

This is the coolest freaking climb I've ever seen! You abseil into a giant cave that faces onto the ocean for a massive beautiful three pitch line. Unfortunately Caitlin and I underestimated the approach time (always follow the cairns!) and arrived too late to do the climb. It will be on my mind until we go back though!

samparsons 24/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
afterthesend 24/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Intimidating from the abseil until the top-out. What a setting though. Ascent complete with passing boat party and falling rocks.

with Sam P
Hidden 14/Apr/16 AltLd
Chriswallis2 31/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Swedish
eduardo 26/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Terrific route! Led P1 & P3.

with Mark H
philhilo 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Great fun, dry as a bone.

with Helen E
dshearer 01/Mar/16 Lead O/S
kennythescot 03/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
with Luke Robinson
LRob 27/Jan/16 Lead
Kieran Duncan 23/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & 3. Fun and unique climbing, the location is unbelievable.

with Ben
keefe 16/Jan/16 Lead O/S
manfred 25/Dec/15 2nd β

Exciting

ChrisW999 25/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
with Sam
samwillo 25/Dec/15 AltLd
Hidden 11/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Jackislav 07/Nov/15 Lead O/S

Led P 2/3, Fantastic route if a little over-hyped, Bolts on P1 + P2 In poor condition, take a set of wires for these and for P2 'hanging' belay

dicky79 23/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Stanners 10/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Swedish Fred, Andy G
jordangolding 03/Apr/15 2nd

Climbed in series as Middle man. Large lump of rock broke off causing a fall at the end of the traverse section of the final pitch.

with Peter Chapman, Pete Briggs
Hidden 18/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
mes32 17/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Spectacular! One of the most memorable routes I've ever done. Led the last (?crux) pitch which felt like a harder and scarier version of Dream. Brilliant!

with Caroline, Will
will_benfold 17/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Caroline Culwick, Mary
Hidden 17/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
tallginge 22/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

lead p1 & p3, belay bolts after 2nd pitch starting to corrode however amazing climbing in an amazing cave!

with gunny
alpinismo.uk 12/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with Graham
redshapedfriday 12/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with Debs Climber
nick ferro 24/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P3 :)

with Oli Birkill
Jonny Nick 31/Oct/14 AltLd

Julia P1 , Simon P2 and me P3

froglette 11/Oct/14 2nd dog

John led. I tried to lead first pitch but it was bold. Ab in is epic, 55m in free space. Only rested on rope once, on final pitch.

with John Proudfoot
Hidden 10/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
cdpuk 09/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1,2. Stunning. Despite being a bit greasy it's probably my favourite route ever.

andyevans 09/Oct/14 AltLd dog

Took lead fall over gear on p1 - you must take loose chalk and lots of it! Greasy to high hell! Partner then led p1,2. And I finished with p3. Cannot stress how much I needed chalk on this route. Apart from that, awesome climb - brilliant day out just make sure you take chalk. Chalk, chalk, chalk.... Also bolts are pretty dodgy at p3 belay. Take a cam/size 2 nut to protect. 'Revel in the exposure'

with cdpuk
Hulda 15/May/14 Lead O/S
with Andi
NickJH 17/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy Dunhill
Hidden 15/Apr/14 2nd
SPK06 ?/Apr/14 AltLd
with tony
Sam Watson 25/Mar/14 AltLd

Great adventure, the abseil in is very exciting and the climbing is constantly good.

JHC 25/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

A Spanish Dream of White Horses

mrteale 22/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Lead crux pitch. Stunning.

craig naylor 03/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Tony
Hanky ?/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Me and NE Brian. Trouser filling abseil in. Saw a big Sunfish from sea ledge. Breathtakingly exposed climbing out. Brilliant !

with Brian/Simon/Dave/Angus
Hidden ?/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
tmawer 19/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with Jaime Robertson
NickyC 15/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 (5+) Lead Zain Karim Pitch 2 (6a+) Lead Pitch 3 (6a) Lead Zain Karim

with Zain Karim
Hidden ?/Apr/13 Lead
Natalyaaa ?/Apr/13 2nd dog

Amazing abseil. Abseiled down without a rope to climb up on... climbed up on 20mtrs on end of rope abseil was rigged on. Lots of scary traverses, really really cool

cookacat 28/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2, very good.

with james n caz
EllieWoods 20/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Adam, Lucy
Hidden 31/Dec/12 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 08/Oct/12 AltLd dog

had a major epic in this hole!dodgy hand drawn topo left me climbing some rediculous grade route and getting heat stroke.finally found route which was in a very greasy state and fell off the last hard move of p3 before dragging myself out and collapsing in a crumpled heap at the top.NOT A GOOD DAY!

with jon parry, ross garfoot
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
chriisu 20/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Unique climb! You need two ropes for this one. One for rappelling (60m) down to the cave and one for climbing.

Jonathan Emett 24/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

P1,P3. Fantastic.

with niall
Hidden 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Chris the Tall 02/Feb/11 AltLd

Awesome experience - Dave led P1 - hard for 5+, I led P2 - very run out 6a, Dave led P3 - 6a+ and the crux. Climbing out is only marginally less terrifying than abbing in

with Dave Coley
Hidden 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
RKernan 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch 3 felt harder than 6a. Incredible experience, won't forget this for a while. Future classic?

with Niall Browne
JPGR 26/Jan/11 Lead O/S
johannes 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Did it one day after heavy rain: 1st pitch completely wet, 2nd pitch partly wet (crux dry), 3rd pitch mostly dry (only the first move wet). Would be a 6a elsewhere, but the seriousness of getting in and out of the cave justifies a soft grading.

Hidden ??/2010 -
JWB 10/Nov/09 AltLd O/S

Wow what a setting! Crux is committing to the ab in!

with Charles
Chad123 18/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Ran top two pitches together, middle one has some dodgy bolting but top one is the tough one, some quite nice moves for the grade in a great postion...

with Paul T
minda_kat ?/Feb/08 -

Tricksome, scary abseil, multipitch sea cliff climb. Some commiting moves. Fantastic weather.

with Rich Mayfield
Dax 05/Nov/07 AltLd dog

Awesome route .. awesome abseil in .. best climb of my life so far. Led 2nd pitch but went too far left and had to let go and then redo move staying right. Learnt a lot about reading rock from that one mistake (think feet). Traverse and top pitch v. exposed. Grinning when I climbed out and still grinning now :)

with Mike
Julie Carroll ?/May/07 AltLd
with Carole Dawson
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Dec/06 AltLd O/S
pete johnson ?/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Lun, Rob
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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set