Rockfax Description
II, 150m, 1 - 1.5 hours. From the Helbronner lift, cross the Col des Flambeux. Continue towards Aiguille d'Entrèves but double back eastwards after 5 minutes to reach the bergschrund.
It is possible to climb the face just about anywhere, but the most common option is to climb it on the left, meeting the rocks about halfway up. This option climbs 40 - 45 degree snow with belays possible using the rocks on the left. At the top of the slope, follow the aesthetic snow ridge to the final buttress, which provides a short, straightforward scramble to the summit. Descend by the East Face. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the foot of the Aiguille de Toule, head up towards the Col d'Entrèves, then fork left towards the Col Occidental de Toule. Go up a steepening snow slope then follow the attractive snow ridge to the rocky summit. Descend either the same way or scramble down the scree on the East Face.

Ticklists: Mark's Alpine Ideas 2017, Chamonix Winter Ideas.

Hidden 22/Aug/17 -
ijsbeer 11/Jul/17 -

Flo Vogel

Hidden 04/Jul/17 -
Hidden 04/Jul/17 -
neal 22/Jun/17 AltLd

Easy plod after doing traverse of Aig d'Entreves. Returned to bivy on Col d'Entreves. Even with hard ice, can't see it meriting more than PD+.

with Stuart Mcleod
JFT 17/Jun/17 -

Took the steepest line up the centre of the face; fantastic neve in the shade but soon as we got into the sun the front points sank a bit deeper...! Were going to descend the PD on the other side but it was loose as hell so we took the same face but the gentler side by the rocks

with Hayden
jhobbs 01/Jul/16 -

Soft snow even though still in shade, lots of effort for minimal progress!

with Mark Haward
Hidden 17/Dec/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Sutty22 29/Aug/12 2nd

Owen led, we practised building belays using Abolokov threads. Descended the loose rocky slope at the back and practised short roping. Did some crevasse rescue practise on the glacier.

with Owen Samuel, Claire Roff
Kirill 09/Jul/12 Lead

after bailing from N Face.

with Bill Nygaard
Hidden 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Andy Clarke 23/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Given AD in Snow, Ice & Mixed, but very straightforward climbing up a pleasant ridge.

with RobD
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