Rockfax Description
A fantastic route which is both technical and bold in places. Start as for Suicide Wall Route 2, below a crescent-shaped ledge and move up to it. Take the slab/groove on the left, until you can make a delicate move out onto the arete and arrange some thin gear. Move back right across the groove and onto the steep wall, passing a thread. Power up this wall to gain a ledge, then move left along the ledge to a slabbier rib out left and delicately climb this to another smaller ledge and carry onto the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

ferdia 07/May/17 2nd
with Tony Stone
Dan724 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Matt Miller
phil64 ??/2015 -
JamesWilliams 08/Sep/14 2nd O/S

seconding this gave me the confidence to lead route 1 . happy to do it clean less bold than expected. nice work jacko

with Jack Lawledge
Rachel Slater 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Never very hard but I wound't like to fall off the slab!

with Anna Gilyeat
Hidden 26/Jun/14 Lead β
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Wood for Trees 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Amazing rock, slab felt like a gritstone solo. from the thread to the top felt great and relatively easy, confidence high.

with Liam P, oli, 5c Steve
Hidden 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
dan gibson 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with sam read
Owain Llewelyn 18/Jul/13 2nd
with Gareth E
Hidden 17/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
ellis 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Alan Willoner
eduardo 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Misha
Misha 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic boldtastic! Good climbing throughout, a bit of a shame about the two ledges but I guess they add a spice if you come off. Technical but not strenuous and not that hard for 5c but sustained and requires focus. The gearless slab to get to the gear is E3 5b, do not fall! Relieved to find a good cam in an undercut pocket round the arete, also had an ok number 1 nut and a poor friend there - on the whole, a good cluster of gear to protect to moves to the thread. Mild E3 5c for that bit. The thread is manky but it was easy enough to add my own. Jugtastic from the thread to the ledge, then interest is maintained on the final steepening to the belay. Midged on the belay! Just did SWR1 and this as only left Birmingham at noon, so left Idwal Cottage around 3.45pm and back at 10pm, not bad for an evening's work! Scorching blue sky day so this was a good crag to go to, it was just about warm enough to climb comfortably (in fact got cold fingers on the start of SWR1).

with Ed
Hidden 07/Jun/13 2nd
pete johnson 26/May/12 2nd
zero six ?/May/12 Lead O/S

Brand new shoes ensured foot agony and clumsiness, so not a pleasnat ascent despite the classic status. Dirty/damp. Can understand the grade disparity - should 2 grades above the norm for technical 5c (E2) equal chop route or merely serious? Felt E4 to me, but not a chop route.

Nick Sillem ??/2012 -
Hidden 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
robinsi197 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Nick
Duncan Campbell 25/Jul/11 Lead β

Awesome, terrifying. Felt unsure at the bottom but a bit of a verbal push from Mason spurred me on. Hard moves above potentially poor, small RPs feels like top-end E3/bottom end E4, Not a great deal of hard 5c but quite a bit of easy 5c/hard 5b in serious positions. Chalked up from an ascent earlier that day and a bit of knowledge on where to go from Mase, but OS apart from that. Brilliant climbing on the pocketed wall above the thread. My ascent of the year so far? Psyched!

with Mason
zukator 11/Apr/11 2nd O/S

I thought it was E4 and I was only seconding it!

with Owain
Owain Llewelyn 10/Apr/11 Lead

Awesome route.As said before climbing is steady,but sustained and pretty run out in places.

with Dad
Hidden ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
hamish2016 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Alex
akhughes 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Jonnie Stocking
Luke Brooks 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Definitive E4 5c. Very sustained and bold in the first half. Absolutely awesome route.

with Laura Perry
Hidden ??/2010 -
frost 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with D Almond
Dave Almond 24/Jun/09 2nd
Adam Booth 25/May/09 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 25/May/09 Lead O/S

Awesome! great to finally do the classic that i've wanted to do for years. Ever isnce seeing the pic in the P. Williams guise and feeling gripped just looking at it. Can understand Nic and popp soloing it, relatively steady. brilliant route.

barni 20/Sep/08 2nd
with Cal
ksjs 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S

felt serious (would be if you fluffed it) but climbing is straightforward. nice, technical moves into the groove with a jug fest above the thread and some very nice pockets on upper corner

with jo
datoon 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with K & RT
tuftynick ??/2008 -
jeffmcd56 ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Wez
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Al Leary
Hidden 22/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
IOAN D 09/Jun/06 Lead O/S


with Mills
Dan 85 03/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Fiend
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
mattyork2 ?/Jul/05 2nd O/S
spidey 17/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with gruff
Dave Musgrove ?/May/02 Lead O/S

Brilliant pitch, my first on-sight E4 lead since losing my fingers on the Skull in 1997.

with Katherine Schirmacher
Dave Rumney 29/Jul/01 Lead
with Sean Roberts
Steve Crowe 16/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with KM
duncan 12/May/01 2nd rpt
with Hugo Glover
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
DJonsight ??/2000 -
Rich Kirby 01/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Robin & Tim Bonner
Hidden 01/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Roget 15/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with jim
Hidden 25/May/97 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 13/Apr/97 2nd
with Jon Sykes, Muir Morton
duncan ?/Jun/96 Lead O/S

Date approximate

richparry ??/1996 Lead O/S
bazza ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Matt Halls
pete johnson 25/Jun/95 2nd
with Steve Findlay
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
keefe ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 2nd
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
D Tempest 14/Jul/94 AltLd

Lead the main pitch

with Rick
shoulders 01/Jun/94 2nd O/S
Nick Biven ??/1994 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 24/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
whispering nic ?/Jun/92 -
Hidden ??/1992 2nd
Bob 07/Jul/91 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing. Top end of the grade though.

with Tom Leppart
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S

We went to do route 1 but Colin was having a hard time trying to start it, I suggested we move down the cliff to a respectable distance to give him space,while we were sitting I eyed up CP and after about 15 mins had convinced myself that I could lead it, Steve thought I was joking when I told him we were going for it! A real trad climbers route, don't fall off before you clip the thread after the crux moves cos the gear before is pants. Finished it with whoops of elation and cruised Route 1 straight after.

with Steven Murphy
mark-abz 09/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Andy W
Greg Cunningham 01/Jun/90 -
keefe ??/1990 -
daviesxxx ??/1990 Lead O/S
michael burrows 10/Sep/89 Lead O/S

led all

with brian jones
wynaptomos ?/May/89 Lead O/S
Neil McA 26/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Martin Mandel
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 30/Aug/84 2nd
Mark Kemball 18/Aug/83 2nd
with Dave Abbey, Bill McKee
Hidden 18/Aug/83 Lead
Mike Owen 12/Jun/83 Lead O/S

This climb had a massive reputation after Joe Healey had a horrific fall a year or two earlier.

with Al Stewart
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 19
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set