Rockfax Description
A fantastic route which is both technical and bold in places. Start as for Suicide Wall Route 2, below a crescent-shaped ledge and move up to it. Take the slab/groove on the left, until you can make a delicate move out onto the arete and arrange some thin gear. Move back right across the groove and onto the steep wall, passing a thread. Power up this wall to gain a ledge, then move left along the ledge to a slabbier rib out left and delicately climb this to another smaller ledge and carry onto the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Definitive *** Ogwen

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 25 May Lead
Olly Chapman 15 May Lead O/S Amazing route, first E4, good to get out of the library and away from exams for a few hours.
Amazing route, first E4, good to get out of the library and away from exams for a few hours.
wolf.leeb 14 May Lead O/S Climbing is superb and never hard, rock is also superb.. runout is very serious (ie deck) until wires 1.5m before thread. possibly missed something out left but others seem to say the same. Started up penal stupidly or possibly slightly further right again.. bold but pleasant.. E4 overal seems fair.
with greg
Climbing is superb and never hard, rock is also superb.. runout is very serious (ie deck) until wires 1.5m before thread. possibly missed something out left but others seem to say the same. Started up penal stupidly or possibly slightly further right again.. bold but pleasant.. E4 overal seems fair.
with greg
Alice Thompson ?May Lead O/S
Adam Booth 30 Apr Lead rpt Classic!
with Calum Musket
Classic!
with Calum Musket
Adam John Haynes 23 Apr 2nd O/S Sort of onsight, 36 years after I last climbed the route.
with Sam U, Matt S
Sort of onsight, 36 years after I last climbed the route.
with Sam U, Matt S
Owen Davies 23 Apr Lead O/S one of if not THE best routes ive ever done. perfect rock, holds, moves, amount of gear, length, everything! on routes like this the grade is meaningless.
with Dill Wixon
one of if not THE best routes ive ever done. perfect rock, holds, moves, amount of gear, length, everything! on routes like this the grade is meaningless.
with Dill Wixon
mrblack ?? -
Flavio 15 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Returning to work the next morning I got lectured on how to safely use stairs and calling out anyone not using the handrails... I was a bit confused as I was still wide eyed from this lead.. I probably won't mention this route.
Returning to work the next morning I got lectured on how to safely use stairs and calling out anyone not using the handrails... I was a bit confused as I was still wide eyed from this lead.. I probably won't mention this route.
JendeHoxar 15 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 13 Jun, 2018 Lead Gear is fiddly and unconvincing till it's all over - definitive E4 5c
with Tim Raffle
Gear is fiddly and unconvincing till it's all over - definitive E4 5c
with Tim Raffle
Neil McA 26 May, 2018 2nd rpt
with Dom, Stan
with Dom, Stan
ferdia 7 May, 2017 2nd
with Tony Stone
with Tony Stone
Dan Hale 11 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Matt Miller
with Matt Miller
phil64 ??, 2015 -
JamesWilliams 8 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S seconding this gave me the confidence to lead route 1 . happy to do it clean less bold than expected. nice work jacko
with Jack Lawledge
seconding this gave me the confidence to lead route 1 . happy to do it clean less bold than expected. nice work jacko
with Jack Lawledge
Rachel Slater 26 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Never very hard but I wound't like to fall off the slab!
with Anna Gilyeat
Never very hard but I wound't like to fall off the slab!
with Anna Gilyeat
Hidden 26 Jun, 2014 Lead β
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
dan gibson 18 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with sam read
with sam read
Owain Llewelyn 18 Jul, 2013 2nd
with Gareth E
with Gareth E
Hidden 17 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
ellis 7 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Alan Willoner
with Alan Willoner
eduardo 6 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 6 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Fantastic boldtastic! Good climbing throughout, a bit of a shame about the two ledges but I guess they add a spice if you come off. Technical but not strenuous and not that hard for 5c but sustained and requires focus. The gearless slab to get to the gear is E3 5b, do not fall! Relieved to find a good cam in an undercut pocket round the arete, also had an ok number 1 nut and a poor friend there - on the whole, a good cluster of gear to protect to moves to the thread. Mild E3 5c for that bit. The thread is manky but it was easy enough to add my own. Jugtastic from the thread to the ledge, then interest is maintained on the final steepening to the belay. Midged on the belay! Just did SWR1 and this as only left Birmingham at noon, so left Idwal Cottage around 3.45pm and back at 10pm, not bad for an evening's work! Scorching blue sky day so this was a good crag to go to, it was just about warm enough to climb comfortably (in fact got cold fingers on the start of SWR1).
with eduardo
Fantastic boldtastic! Good climbing throughout, a bit of a shame about the two ledges but I guess they add a spice if you come off. Technical but not strenuous and not that hard for 5c but sustained and requires focus. The gearless slab to get to the gear is E3 5b, do not fall! Relieved to find a good cam in an undercut pocket round the arete, also had an ok number 1 nut and a poor friend there - on the whole, a good cluster of gear to protect to moves to the thread. Mild E3 5c for that bit. The thread is manky but it was easy enough to add my own. Jugtastic from the thread to the ledge, then interest is maintained on the final steepening to the belay. Midged on the belay! Just did SWR1 and this as only left Birmingham at noon, so left Idwal Cottage around 3.45pm and back at 10pm, not bad for an evening's work! Scorching blue sky day so this was a good crag to go to, it was just about warm enough to climb comfortably (in fact got cold fingers on the start of SWR1).
with eduardo
Hidden 7 Jun, 2013 2nd
pete johnson 26 May, 2012 2nd
Steve Long 26 May, 2012 Lead
zero six ?May, 2012 Lead O/S Brand new shoes ensured foot agony and clumsiness, so not a pleasnat ascent despite the classic status. Dirty/damp. Can understand the grade disparity - should 2 grades above the norm for technical 5c (E2) equal chop route or merely serious? Felt E4 to me, but not a chop route.
Brand new shoes ensured foot agony and clumsiness, so not a pleasnat ascent despite the classic status. Dirty/damp. Can understand the grade disparity - should 2 grades above the norm for technical 5c (E2) equal chop route or merely serious? Felt E4 to me, but not a chop route.
Nick Sillem ??, 2012 -
Hidden 29 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
robinsi197 30 Jul, 2011 2nd
with Nick
with Nick
Duncan Campbell 25 Jul, 2011 Lead β Awesome, terrifying. Felt unsure at the bottom but a bit of a verbal push from Mason spurred me on. Hard moves above potentially poor, small RPs feels like top-end E3/bottom end E4, Not a great deal of hard 5c but quite a bit of easy 5c/hard 5b in serious positions. Chalked up from an ascent earlier that day and a bit of knowledge on where to go from Mase, but OS apart from that. Brilliant climbing on the pocketed wall above the thread. My ascent of the year so far? Psyched!
Awesome, terrifying. Felt unsure at the bottom but a bit of a verbal push from Mason spurred me on. Hard moves above potentially poor, small RPs feels like top-end E3/bottom end E4, Not a great deal of hard 5c but quite a bit of easy 5c/hard 5b in serious positions. Chalked up from an ascent earlier that day and a bit of knowledge on where to go from Mase, but OS apart from that. Brilliant climbing on the pocketed wall above the thread. My ascent of the year so far? Psyched!
zukator 11 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S I thought it was E4 and I was only seconding it!
with Owain
I thought it was E4 and I was only seconding it!
with Owain
Owain Llewelyn 10 Apr, 2011 Lead Awesome route.As said before climbing is steady,but sustained and pretty run out in places.
with Dad
Awesome route.As said before climbing is steady,but sustained and pretty run out in places.
with Dad
Hidden ??, 2011 -
pasbury ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
phil64 ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
hamish2016 3 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with Alex
with Alex
akhughes 21 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Jonnie Stocking
with Jonnie Stocking
Luke Brooks 5 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 23 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Definitive E4 5c. Very sustained and bold in the first half. Absolutely awesome route.
with Laura Perry
Definitive E4 5c. Very sustained and bold in the first half. Absolutely awesome route.
with Laura Perry
Hidden ??, 2010 -
frost 24 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with D Almond
with D Almond
Dave Almond 24 Jun, 2009 2nd
with frost
with frost
Adam Booth 25 May, 2009 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 25 May, 2009 Lead O/S Awesome! great to finally do the classic that i've wanted to do for years. Ever isnce seeing the pic in the P. Williams guise and feeling gripped just looking at it. Can understand Nic and popp soloing it, relatively steady. brilliant route.
Awesome! great to finally do the classic that i've wanted to do for years. Ever isnce seeing the pic in the P. Williams guise and feeling gripped just looking at it. Can understand Nic and popp soloing it, relatively steady. brilliant route.
barni 20 Sep, 2008 2nd
with Cal
with Cal
ksjs 24 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S felt serious (would be if you fluffed it) but climbing is straightforward. nice, technical moves into the groove with a jug fest above the thread and some very nice pockets on upper corner
with jo
felt serious (would be if you fluffed it) but climbing is straightforward. nice, technical moves into the groove with a jug fest above the thread and some very nice pockets on upper corner
with jo
datoon 18 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with K & RT
with K & RT
tuftynick ??, 2008 -
jeffmcd56 ??, 2008 Lead O/S
with Wez
with Wez
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2008 Lead O/S
with Al Leary
with Al Leary
Hidden 22 Aug, 2007 2nd
Hidden ?Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
IOAN D 9 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S superb!
with Mills
superb!
with Mills
Dan 85 3 Jun, 2006 2nd O/S
with Fiend
with Fiend
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
mattyork2 ?Jul, 2005 2nd O/S
Si Witcher ?Jul, 2005 Lead
spidey 17 Sep, 2003 Lead O/S
with gruff
with gruff
Dave Musgrove ?May, 2002 Lead O/S Brilliant pitch, my first on-sight E4 lead since losing my fingers on the Skull in 1997.
with Katherine Schirmacher
Brilliant pitch, my first on-sight E4 lead since losing my fingers on the Skull in 1997.
with Katherine Schirmacher
Dave Rumney 29 Jul, 2001 Lead
with Sean Roberts
with Sean Roberts
Steve Crowe 16 Jul, 2001 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
duncan 12 May, 2001 2nd rpt
Tom Briggs ??, 2000 Lead
DJonsight ??, 2000 -
Rich Kirby 1 Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
with Robin & Tim Bonner
with Robin & Tim Bonner
Hidden 1 Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
Roget 15 Jun, 1999 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
Hidden ??, 1999 Lead
Hidden 25 May, 1997 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 13 Apr, 1997 2nd
with Jon Sykes, Muir Morton
with Jon Sykes, Muir Morton
duncan ?Jun, 1996 Lead O/S Date approximate
with AlisonC
Date approximate
with AlisonC
richparry ??, 1996 Lead O/S
bazza ??, 1996 Lead O/S
with Matt Halls
with Matt Halls
pete johnson 25 Jun, 1995 2nd
with Steve Findlay
with Steve Findlay
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead O/S
keefe ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 2nd
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
D Tempest 14 Jul, 1994 AltLd Lead the main pitch
with Rick
Lead the main pitch
with Rick
shoulders 1 Jun, 1994 2nd O/S
with sharpie
with sharpie
Nick Biven ??, 1994 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 24 Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
with Alan Holden
whispering nic ?Jun, 1992 -
Hidden ??, 1992 2nd
Bob 7 Jul, 1991 Lead O/S Brilliant climbing. Top end of the grade though.
with Tom Leppart
Brilliant climbing. Top end of the grade though.
with Tom Leppart
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?Jul, 1991 Lead O/S We went to do route 1 but Colin was having a hard time trying to start it, I suggested we move down the cliff to a respectable distance to give him space,while we were sitting I eyed up CP and after about 15 mins had convinced myself that I could lead it, Steve thought I was joking when I told him we were going for it! A real trad climbers route, don't fall off before you clip the thread after the crux moves cos the gear before is pants. Finished it with whoops of elation and cruised Route 1 straight after.
with Steven Murphy
We went to do route 1 but Colin was having a hard time trying to start it, I suggested we move down the cliff to a respectable distance to give him space,while we were sitting I eyed up CP and after about 15 mins had convinced myself that I could lead it, Steve thought I was joking when I told him we were going for it! A real trad climbers route, don't fall off before you clip the thread after the crux moves cos the gear before is pants. Finished it with whoops of elation and cruised Route 1 straight after.
with Steven Murphy
mark-abz 9 Sep, 1990 Lead O/S
with Andy W
with Andy W
Greg Cunningham 1 Jun, 1990 -
Hidden 5 Mar, 1990 Lead
donie ??, 1990 -
keefe ??, 1990 -
daviesxxx ??, 1990 Lead O/S
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
michael burrows 10 Sep, 1989 Lead O/S led all
with brian jones
led all
with brian jones
wynaptomos ?May, 1989 Lead O/S
Neil McA 26 Apr, 1987 Lead O/S
with Martin Mandel
with Martin Mandel
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 30 Aug, 1984 2nd
Mark Kemball 18 Aug, 1983 2nd
with Dave Abbey, Bill McKee
with Dave Abbey, Bill McKee
Hidden 18 Aug, 1983 Lead
Mike Owen 12 Jun, 1983 Lead O/S This climb had a massive reputation after Joe Healey had a horrific fall a year or two earlier.
with Al Stewart
This climb had a massive reputation after Joe Healey had a horrific fall a year or two earlier.
with Al Stewart
Hidden ??, 1983 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden ??, 1973 -
29 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 26
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set