Restricted Access
Please be aware there is a new owner of the site, its likely in the near future that some changes could take place. We are hoping that access to climbing will still be possible, but might be more complicated. If there are any issues please contact BMC Cymru.
Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see.
Although not subject to any restrictions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone Shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July.
Rockfax Description
A great link featuring the crux of both routes to make one extremely sustained outing. Climb to the fourth bolt on 70 Degrees and then traverse to the arched overlap on Clogau Gold. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb 70 Degrees to its 4th bolt, then head over to Clogau Gold to finish.
Ticklists
North Wales Limestone 7a to 7b , North wales 7a+ , Matt's North Wales Motivation
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Penmaen Head
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Battleground
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Lighthouse Crags)