UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
The super-steep roof crack with a couple of threads in place. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Yorkshire Off Widths

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User Date Notes
Holdtickler 13 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Also, couldn't see any sign of a stake above. Unless it's possible to belay from route below top, the only options might be the higher tier way back (spare rigging rope?)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Also, couldn't see any sign of a stake above. Unless it's possible to belay from route below top, the only options might be the higher tier way back (spare rigging rope?)
Holdtickler 13 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Took a small fall on the top thread and ripped the chockstone out. Thankfully the ground wasn't far away. The 2nd sling next to it (not the lower chock thread, still in situ) turned out to be very small spike and fell off whilst examining it. When I next get a chance on a weekend, I'll replace the lower thread. I'll have a closer look at the spike and decide whether it's secure enough as an in situ piece and replace sling if so. As for the missing chockstone, I think the moves are protectable with either a 3or4 cam (bd) or 10/11 hex so think I'll just leave it out rather than risk creating another deathtrap replacing it. The space the the top chock and slings occupied may now reveal new jams/placements. Not good enough to comment whether this affects grade as already punching way above my weight on this one.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Took a small fall on the top thread and ripped the chockstone out. Thankfully the ground wasn't far away. The 2nd sling next to it (not the lower chock thread, still in situ) turned out to be very small spike and fell off whilst examining it. When I next get a chance on a weekend, I'll replace the lower thread. I'll have a closer look at the spike and decide whether it's secure enough as an in situ piece and replace sling if so. As for the missing chockstone, I think the moves are protectable with either a 3or4 cam (bd) or 10/11 hex so think I'll just leave it out rather than risk creating another deathtrap replacing it. The space the the top chock and slings occupied may now reveal new jams/placements. Not good enough to comment whether this affects grade as already punching way above my weight on this one.

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
A New Way to Say Hooray

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Kay Nest)

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