Rockfax Description
The original route of the East Buttress. It follows a series of huge stepped corners. Start to the right of the main crack/corner of Sunset Crack at a stepped left-facing groove leading up to the base of the main part of the cliff.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb leftwards over ledges and follow a corner to a grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. The rib on the right leads to a break-line that leads right to below a short steep corner. Tricky moves up this gain The Conservatory - a large grassy ledge.
3) 4a, 25m. Climb the corner past a ledge on the right and enter the chimney above - generally easy but steep and intimidating - to belay on the large ledge.
4) 5a, 25m. The stepped corner on the right leads with difficulty to the top. An impressive pitch for its time. © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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JamesWilliams | 2 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: The gear is alright on this route there are a few stuck hexes and chockstones to sling to supplement a few large cams gold to silver. But it is hard. If you want to learn how to climb corners and jam, forget cenotaph this is it | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The gear is alright on this route there are a few stuck hexes and chockstones to sling to supplement a few large cams gold to silver. But it is hard. If you want to learn how to climb corners and jam, forget cenotaph this is it |
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JoshRawson | 28 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Be aware the top pitch is bloody nails, if you cant jam be prepared to rappel, there are multiple threads about to rappel down | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Be aware the top pitch is bloody nails, if you cant jam be prepared to rappel, there are multiple threads about to rappel down |
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Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Trwyn y Gorlech (Lleyn))