Rockfax Description
The middle of the three long corners on this side of the buttress. Good climbing, but often wet. Starting up the first pitch of Scorpio makes the route a worthwhile VS. Start by scrambling up to a belay below the large corner.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the crack and belay on the pedestal on the right.
2) 4c, 15m. Move back left into the crack and climb it to a stance in the developing corner.
3) 4b, 25m. Continue more easily up the corner/crack to the top and a belay on the Eastern Terrace. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
TRip 16/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Mark Stevenson 16/Aug/16 AltLd
neal 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1&P3. P1 a bit greasy and dirty, tough warmup! Good route though.

with Dan
Hidden 29/May/16 AltLd O/S
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Tom McCabe 11/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Good line and good thuggy climbing.

Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
julesmckim 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Good climbing on all three pitches

pimpy 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

led last pitch

with Charles
cem 26/Jul/14 AltLd rpt

Led p 1 & 2 in one.

Hidden 23/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 02/Jul/14 2nd
R0bbie 23/Jun/14 AltLd
with Taba
misterb ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with justin
Bob ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ?/Aug/13 -
Palindrome 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Difficult start but a pleasant, laybacking/jamming crack thereafter.

Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Dave Almond 21/Jul/13 AltLd
Nicole Almond 21/Jul/13 2nd

Felt like I was hauling myself up the crack at some points, although it did have some good moves so the hauling could've been due to my bad climbing technique...

with Dad
dan gibson 19/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Freshprintce 18/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
duncandarnell 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with JezH
Dan Mckinlay 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S
James Oswald 11/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Persuade Calum to do this after the Indian Face... He was going to lead the first pitch and then climb the E4 arete but he continued up the corner. We then sat and watched George lead TIF. The crag was very eery!

with Calum Muskett
robgixer ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Mathias Willerup ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Martin Beale
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
ray2k 11/Jun/13 2nd
with Loic
Fragmod 08/Jun/13 Lead
Chi Cheng 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Let the 1st pitch, Bart ran p2 and p3 together

with Bart Harris
cem 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led p 1 & 3

EeFu 08/Jun/13 AltLd

Led P2

Kirill 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P3 as one.

Hidden 03/Jun/13 AltLd
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
Danjones 27/May/12 AltLd

Lead 1st and 3rd pitches. First pitch quite tricky and steep but well protected. Easing on latter pitches.

with Owen (London)
Owen W-G 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

cheeky 26/May/12 AltLd O/S
PaulTanton 26/May/12 Lead O/S
with Anita Grey
mark4344 26/May/12 AltLd

lead pitch 1, then joined pitch 2 and 3 together.

with Matt Payne
petellis 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Top pitch only, horrid slime and precariousness.

Chriswallis2 02/Jul/11 AltLd
with Pete
jamesh 30/Apr/11 2nd
with Jim Unwin
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/10 2nd
spidey 19/Jun/10 Lead

led in one pitch!

with adam
adam06 19/Jun/10 2nd

direct start. knackering squirming style route! done in one massive pitch (climbing at the same time at one point so ryan could make the last few moves)

with Ryan
Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 16/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

I lead pitch 1 and ed lead last two in one.

with ed-v12
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
zukator ??/2010 Lead
chrisallan 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Failed on direct start (HVS) - wet. Led P1 and 3

hlegge 28/Jun/09 AltLd
tcn_2002 28/Jun/09 AltLd

Bad description from guidebook

hervenuttall ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve
Glyn Davidson 31/May/09 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1, Mike lead last two pitches together

Hidden 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
lost.arrow 31/May/09 AltLd
with David Bowler
CharlotteJelleyman 31/May/09 2nd O/S
with Herve Nuttall, Steve Franklin
chrissloan84 ??/2009 -
with paul
DannyK 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with pep
Sgt. Vest 09/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with james andy
Joe Dove 29/May/08 Lead

Lead 1 & 2

with kev
ksjs 13/May/08 AltLd O/S

jose did P1 + 2 together and i led P3. good route. maybe a touch more prone to damp than The Corner?

with jose
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Marcus ??/2008 -
Andrew Sloan 28/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitches.

with Steve Grove
Sean Kelly ??/2007 -
Nicos 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with burt
ferdia 15/Jun/06 -
Hidden 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
ritchierich 07/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Rob Greenwood
mike lawrence? 01/Jul/05 -
with Alex B
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jul/01 Lead O/S
John Pickles 10/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with John Short
Hidden ?/May/98 AltLd
adi bryant 27/Jun/93 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Hidden 26/May/90 AltLd
Hidden 14/May/88 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/85 AltLd
Melok ??/1985 -
Ian Jones ??/1983 AltLd O/S
with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'
andy gittins ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
sharpie ?/Jun/78 Solo
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
mikej 08/Aug/76 AltLd

With Direct Start.

with Mike Byles
Nigel Bond 29/Jun/75 Lead
with Robert Lloydd
Rob Davies 26/Jun/75 AltLd

Via original RH start - VS 4c

with Mike Papworth
Bolt Phobia 13/Jun/75 Lead
with Trev Steele
Hidden ??/1975 Lead
Bob M ?/Apr/74 Lead

Via original start (VS)

with Geraldine King
Paul Clarke ??/1974 AltLd
with FMC
Martin Bennett 11/Sep/73 -
with Geordie Ord
Hidden ??/1973 2nd
Hidden ??/1973 AltLd
pneame ??/1973 Solo
Gordon Stainforth 02/Sep/72 2nd

Repeat. Direct Start seemed harder than remembered (in 1970)

with John Stainforth
jon 31/Aug/72 AltLd
with roger b
Dave Musgrove 15/Jul/72 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
tapley 01/Jun/71 AltLd
with Dave Hearnshaw
Gordon Stainforth 05/Aug/70 AltLd O/S

Using the Direct Start. Superb, enjoyable climbing.

with Tim James
ill_bill ??/1969 AltLd

we did the old first pitch.

Campbell42 25/Aug/68 AltLd O/S
with Kim Wainwright
uphillnow 24/Sep/66 Lead
with John Grieve
Seymore Butt ??/1965 -
with Big Ken
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 14
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set