126m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine old classic that takes an intricate line up the slender slab on this side of the West Buttress. The first route to breach the imposing West Buttress. Start at the foot of The Black Cleft.
1) 20m. Scramble across easy ground to a block and traverse right to a ledge below the narrow slabby corner.
2) 4a, 25m. Climb the slabby corner to a belay in the base of the widening chimney-crack.
3) 4b, 12m. Climb up the chimney and slab above either on the left (easier) or by pulling out right and traversing back above (better) to a belay on the right.
4) 35m. Easy climbing leads up the slab to a crevassed ledge on the right.
5) 4c, 25m. From the right end of the ledge, pull up steeply over the overhang on good but space holds. Then move right into and up a chimney. This leads to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Excellent, exposed climbing after a wet and loose start. First main slab pitch very long to get a stance with decent belays (35m) just by the 'Faith and Friction' bit.

JL Longland, AS Pigott, FS Smythe, W Eversden, M Wood May/1928

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, High Quality Adventure routes.

pauldrew 06/Aug/16 AltLd
with Sandra Cvetko, BarbsMurray
BarbsMurray 06/Aug/16 AltLd
with Paul
cameron_hall 14/May/16 AltLd rpt

Intending to do The Sheaf, but we went too far left on the first pitch. I led P2,3 (in one), and decided (again) that I didn't particularly fancy the overhang pitch on lead. This time, my excuse is that my legs were feeling sore.

with Simon Goldman
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Darron ??/2016 -
noemie5438 11/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2, P4, P5. The route was a bit wet and I led P5 in the rain. Beside this it was a good climb, great day out

with Mark
Andrew Lester 11/Jun/15 Lead

Fantastic day out!

Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd
steely 13/May/15 2nd O/S

Cold. Wet. Terrifying. Felt like hvs with the wet holds and full packs on. Was pleased to top out into sunshine. Fantastic mountain day out!

with owain lewis, luke armitage
owain-1978 13/May/15 2nd

Total suffer fest for me this one. Dog tired with pack on and a shaky sense of balance due to lack of sleep. Cold in the shade while everywhere else was basking in glorious sunshine. Who go to Gloggy in May? Well...We do. I'll never forget it though.

with Ian Steel, luke armitage
Hidden 22/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 -
mattkemp70 ??/2015 -
mattkemp70 ??/2015 -
Hidden 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Mr-Cowdrey 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Possibly the worst climb I have lead. Boring, loose, grassy and no real excitement. The only thing that made it slightly worthwhile was the 4c moves off the last belay but apart from that, wouldn't recommend it.

with chris ridgers
Heather Osborne 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Climbed in 3 pitches due to some trouble with route finding and working out where the pitches were lower down! I led what is p3 in the guide, up to the ledge belay. Had a great time - first climb on Cloggy! Was less exciting climbing than I'd expected, but a brilliant place to be.

Hidden 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/14 Lead
cameron_hall 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Did in four pitches, rather than five. Led P1 (the usual P1) and P3 (roughly equivalent to P4). Very good fun.

smolders 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

P1 is a slippery scramble. P2 is a nice pitch, but in my enthusiasm I went past the belay and then spent some time trying to find a suitable place to stop on the slab on P3. Cameron ran the remainder of P3 and P4 together. I did P5 - the overhang looks intimidating, but is easier than it appears.

with Cameron
bob johnson 05/Jul/14 -
with Rich Ball
R0bbie 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Taba
Hidden 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
Bob ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Steve Davis
Nicole Almond 21/Jul/13 2nd

Nice climb to finish on, running 3 pitches together helped speed up the climb which was well worth it.

with Dad
Dave Almond 21/Jul/13 Lead

Nice route to finish making a reasonable trio of Cloggy routes in a day. Made it in 3 pitches counting the scramble start.

RCrockford 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1, 4, 5.

with Graham
Calder 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Good climbing and fantastic exposure and positions. Re: The comment below - if you think this is loose and chossy then you've never lived.

joese7en 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Palindrome 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
fizzychewitt 14/Jul/13 AltLd
with Ali, Jayne
Double Knee Bar 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led crux pitch.

Ollie B 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with H.Gibson
Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Helen Gibson 13/Jul/13 AltLd

did a variant last pitch to the left - I think HVS 5a ?

with Ollie B
ashsleight 10/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

An Epic day in Epic surroundings, would only give it 3* for the last 4c pitch. The rest was quite loose and chossy.

Zoomer 10/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Big long day out, slowed considerably by the team ahead. Felt all the pitches, bar the first and last deserved 4b, the overhang was simple but steep and exposed. Gear overall was poor as were the belays....normal day at Cloggy!

scott mayled 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Good climb, surprisingly cheeky at spots. The ungraded sections should be graded 4A/4B maybe? Long day out! A bloomer adventure!

alpinismo.uk 10/Jul/13 AltLd
victim of mathematics 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

In 4 pitches, led 2 & 4. Good fun, but none of the pitches are as good as any of the pitches on Great/Bow.

James Oswald 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Not as good as great-bow but still good. Fun

with Colin Angus
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
Jones_88 09/Jun/13 AltLd
adam06 09/Jun/13 AltLd
Big Lee 08/Jun/13 AltLd dnf

Meandered easily up the first three pitches then fell off the crux pitch. Lacerated my forearm in the fall and needed 11 stitches. Managed some climbing the following day at least.

Steve Woollard 08/Jun/13 AltLd
with Padraig O'Caigh
RyanOsborne 08/Jun/13 AltLd

Think I did the first couple of pitches, but then Lee had a nasty fall and we bailed.

Hidden 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/13 AltLd
Dan724 03/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
BenRyle 03/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Amazing intro to Cloggy, what an unbelievable place

with Dan
Hidden ?/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
rob16 ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2013 -
roberts1234567890 02/Jun/12 AltLd
with Simon Verspeak
MD 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2, P3 and half of P4 in one go

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 27/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Mike D
djromberg 27/May/12 Lead O/S

If your comfortable at the grade then soloing p1 and stringing p2 + p3 together makes this climb pretty awesome.

vertically_challenged 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

great route. some good moves on final pitch.

cheeky 25/May/12 AltLd O/S
mark4344 25/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Matt Payne
antonymcphillips ?/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 27/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 26/Mar/12 AltLd
Ched 26/Mar/12 AltLd
with gali
Ched 26/Mar/12 AltLd
with gali
joe_lancs 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead
davidtrelawnyross ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
JamesP ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden 02/Oct/11 AltLd dnf
tedburt 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Aaron Burdett
0ddba11 ?/Oct/11 AltLd dnf

lead 2+3 then abbed off cos of rain and wet slippy rock

Lawrie Brand 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Never worth 3 stars! Way too vegetated and loose..Lead all pitches

with Sarah Laing
Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 AltLd
Tomprusk 02/May/11 AltLd O/S

Truly epic with really strong winds, loose rock and awkward moves in a fantastic position!

with Dad
Chris M Thomas 30/Apr/11 AltLd

Beautiful sunny day but strong cool wind.

with Luke
Julie Carroll 28/Apr/11 AltLd
with Ross
dan_o_b ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
andy dunn 25/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & 3 together, them 5. Couldn't see anywhere to belay where the chimney widened so just kept going. Starting moves on the final pitch went much easier than expected... wish it was a longer section. Not dissapointed with my first Cloggy experience.

with J
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Sean Kelly ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Hidden 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Tadams 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Lead 2nd and 4th pitches. Excellent route with great exposure on the arete.

with Will Jung
stuart34 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Katya 19/Jun/10 AltLd

Lead P3 with Caroline and Bry

with Caroline
Bry 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Caroline and Kat
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
JWB 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

First visit to Cloggy. Not that impressed with the climbing on this route but the position is stunning. Tricky belay after the slab and moving up the groove.

with Mike Allen
Hidden 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Haszko 05/Jun/10 Lead

Scary, wet pitch to get to the start of the slab. Belay in the chimney on first slab pitch not really on so ran out 35 m. to get something.

with Danuszka Rycerz
Hidden 05/Jun/10 AltLd
dan ely 27/May/10 AltLd O/S

jon lead 1 and 4 me 2 and 3 combined and 5. Took a LONG time. tricky belay on pitches 2-3. AMAZING

with jon, jesse
Hidden 23/May/10 AltLd O/S
tomhull 23/May/10 AltLd O/S

in 3

with matt harris
Hidden ?/May/10 AltLd
Graham Westbrook ?/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
zukator ??/2010 Lead
peter myers ?/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Ralph Heath
PaulHarris 19/Sep/09 AltLd
with Simon, Micheal
PaulHarris 19/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
thompson1000 03/Jun/09 -
with Olly
hervenuttall ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve
CharlotteJelleyman 31/May/09 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Herve Nuttall, Steve Franklin
Hidden 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
Conan 25/May/09 AltLd O/S

Nice route. No one else anywhere on the crag on a Bank Holiday Monday and a lot of the routes were dry!

with Philippa Reader
steve prior ?/May/09 AltLd
with Andy C
dickypips ??/2009 AltLd O/S

with arete finish

simonvand 23/Jul/08 AltLd
with James
dja 06/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Mike Hargreaves 06/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Dave Atkinson
Joe Miller 31/May/08 2nd O/S
unfit 20/May/08 AltLd
with john N
Hidden 20/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/May/08 2nd
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden 15/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/07 AltLd
Gman ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Jonathan
jepotherepo 07/Apr/07 -
with richard lackey
jonnie3430 ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Sean Kelly ??/2007 -
John HW ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

A fantastic climb in perfect conditions

with Cath
mikelaing ??/2006 -
mike lawrence? 01/Jul/05 -
with Alex B
ColinD ??/2005 -
Ann S ?/Jul/04 2nd
with Bill Harrison
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
ArnaudG 20/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with Dunc
kato'sdad 23/Apr/03 AltLd
RobSimmo 23/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
five ?/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
with KR
p.crooky#1 ??/2003 AltLd
with Crotty
Hidden 03/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
pete johnson ?/Sep/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/01 Lead O/S
rlrs ??/2001 AltLd
Antony Mariani ??/2001 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
Russell Lovett 11/Jul/99 Lead O/S
with Andrew Haigh Gede Gibon
John Pickles 10/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with John Short
IanGilbertJones 10/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 -
Duncan I ?/May/98 -

Rained all the way up it

with Toby Hulf
BenTiffin ?/Feb/98 AltLd
with Matt Baker
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
alan moore ??/1998 -

A bit shabby with a brief moment of interest at the top.

zero six ??/1998 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Tim Sparrow ?/Oct/97 Lead
with Rhiannon
nickdonohue 12/Jul/97 AltLd
with Andy ?
goi.ashmore 04/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 25/Jun/95 Lead
Hidden 28/May/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/93 Lead
Richard Weller 05/Jun/93 AltLd
with Robin Cowan
Hidden 02/May/93 AltLd
WB ??/1992 -
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd O/S
AdmWlr ??/1991 AltLd
Hidden 09/Sep/90 AltLd
pingora 18/Jul/90 AltLd O/S
with Bankhead
sadams ?/Jul/90 AltLd
with Mark Bonham
charlesmfrench 10/Jun/90 AltLd O/S

S,L,L,2,L. Did direct finish, 2nd, 18/9/82. Did West Direct Finish on 13/8/82.

Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
babymoac 17/Jun/89 AltLd

After Main Wall Cyrn Las

with Andrew Ecker
Pete_Frost ??/1988 AltLd O/S
PaulTanton ?/Jul/83 AltLd O/S
with Dave Campbell
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/83 Solo O/S
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 AltLd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden 26/May/78 AltLd
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Steve Lewis 09/Jul/77 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
kjacks ?/Jul/77 Lead

Seemed quite straight forward at the time. Didn't even notice the 'Faith and Friction' bit. V exposed in parts.

with Roland Leyland
mikej 29/May/77 Lead
with Tony Waite
Bolt Phobia 24/May/77 Lead
Rob Davies 01/Jul/76 Lead
with John Davies
Hidden ?/Jul/76 2nd
petemeads ??/1976 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/75 AltLd
Mark Kemball ?/Aug/75 AltLd
with Bill Wheeler
Nigel Bond 28/Jun/75 Lead
with Robert Lloydd
Rob Davies 23/Jun/75 AltLd dnf

Retreated due to greasy conditions

with Mike Papworth
Bob M ?/Jun/75 AltLd
with Graham Mayo
Hidden ??/1975 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard ??/1974 Lead
with Doug Adams
sharpie ?/Jul/73 Lead O/S
with Steve Evans
Hidden ??/1973 AltLd
ill_bill ??/1973 Lead

climbed in early 1970's

with Martin Bown
Paul Clarke ??/1973 AltLd
with FMC
Dave Musgrove 15/Jul/72 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
Martin Bennett 16/May/72 -
with RA
pneame ??/1972 AltLd
uphillnow 17/Jul/71 Lead
with charlie Tanner, Dave Ellis
Tom V ??/1971 -
tapley 27/Sep/70 AltLd
with Dave Hearnshaw
Gordon Stainforth 05/Aug/70 AltLd

'Somewhat disappointing'

with Tim James
Campbell42 04/May/68 AltLd O/S
with David Cording
Hidden 28/Aug/66 AltLd
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 35
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set