Rockfax Description
This superb climb takes the most direct line on this side of the West Buttress - 'eliminate' in name but certainly not 'eliminate' in nature. Start below a red groove.
1) 5c, 35m. A serious pitch. Climb the groove for a short distance until you can move across the steep right wall on good, but spaced holds and up to ledges. Head up to a large block and climb the groove above with difficulty over a bulge to the base of the White Slab.
2) 5b, 40m. Climb the groove on the right-hand side of the slab to a shared belay on a flake.
3) 5b, 40m. Walsh's Groove. An amazing pitch up the main groove, requiring sustained back-and-foot techniques. Belay at the top of the slab on a ledge over to the left on White Slab.
4) 4a, 12m. Climb easily up behind the belay to a crevassed stance on the right. This is P6 of White Slab.
5) 5a, 30m. Either finish as for White Slab P7 (4c), or step left and follow the slab to the top, Longland's Direct Finish (5a). © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Alex's Wales ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Ingle Routes, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), BMG Application Rock (Unofficial)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
BC 21 Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Sep AltLd O/S
MikePycroft 26 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Challenging climbing on all pitches led whole climb. Walshes grove wet holds but dry on the slab body work out
with Paul Bolger
Challenging climbing on all pitches led whole climb. Walshes grove wet holds but dry on the slab body work out
with Paul Bolger
Bernie L 26 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S P1&3
with Henry Tyce
P1&3
with Henry Tyce
Sam Brown 9 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Nat williams
with Nat williams
Michael Bortoluzzi 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead from Walshes grooves onwards. Great piece of fighting fun, though it got me less bloody than I expected and ends sooner than you think, though not too soon either! All good pitches with only the very occasional loose bit
Lead from Walshes grooves onwards. Great piece of fighting fun, though it got me less bloody than I expected and ends sooner than you think, though not too soon either! All good pitches with only the very occasional loose bit
Richard Kendrick 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Really good, nice to get a long route which has all pitch's of sustained quality. No need for the forth 4a pitch just go to the top which actually reduces the rope drag.
with Simon, Michael Bortoluzzi
Really good, nice to get a long route which has all pitch's of sustained quality. No need for the forth 4a pitch just go to the top which actually reduces the rope drag.
with Simon, Michael Bortoluzzi
TwofoZeus 30 Jun, 2018 2nd β First and second pitch were outstanding and really fun, thoroughly enjoyed them. First pitch felt soft for 5c, or just my style?). Third pitch is a real grovel, horrible chimney. Had to use one point of aid as I was powering out, slipping and getting frustrated thrutching and scrapping up the back wall. Pitch 5 is again very good, really enjoyable climbing, good exposure.
First and second pitch were outstanding and really fun, thoroughly enjoyed them. First pitch felt soft for 5c, or just my style?). Third pitch is a real grovel, horrible chimney. Had to use one point of aid as I was powering out, slipping and getting frustrated thrutching and scrapping up the back wall. Pitch 5 is again very good, really enjoyable climbing, good exposure.
peter.herd 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd P 1/3. Traddy!
with Lee R
P 1/3. Traddy!
with Lee R
justjd108 6 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Brilliant route. 3 great pitches.
Brilliant route. 3 great pitches.
Loz10 6 Jun, 2018 2nd dog
john lynch ?Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
with Lewis Andrew
Climbingspike ??, 2018 -
Al Evans ??, 2018 AltLd
with Jim Moran
with Jim Moran
The Grist 19 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Misha 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Hard very trad, aka proper mountain E3. Led P1, which felt a bit goey due to some questionable gear and uncertainty of line but the moves were mostly no more than 5b. The 5c crux towards the top is reasonably well protected, especially if you save a red cam (I only had a green one, which was ok). Hardly any chalk on it and the line is not obvious, so felt like a proper trad quest. Andy led P2, which is much trickier than it looks and a bit bold in places, probably the best pitch on the day. I did P3, starting up a narrow V groove above where Andy belayed - from the topos it looks like you aren't actually meant to go there but it was a nice aperitif for what was to come! The corner crack of Walsh's Groove varied from wet to horribly slimy but provided mostly good hand and right foot jams and was fairly slabby, so not too bad. At one point the hand jams ran out and the left footholds on the slabby face were desperately thin, thought I might be off but a pull up to a slimy fist jam saved the day! Probably fine when dry but definitely E3.5 in the conditions... Andy led through to the end of the climbing, from where there was a pitch of scrambling / walking to get to the top.
Hard very trad, aka proper mountain E3. Led P1, which felt a bit goey due to some questionable gear and uncertainty of line but the moves were mostly no more than 5b. The 5c crux towards the top is reasonably well protected, especially if you save a red cam (I only had a green one, which was ok). Hardly any chalk on it and the line is not obvious, so felt like a proper trad quest. Andy led P2, which is much trickier than it looks and a bit bold in places, probably the best pitch on the day. I did P3, starting up a narrow V groove above where Andy belayed - from the topos it looks like you aren't actually meant to go there but it was a nice aperitif for what was to come! The corner crack of Walsh's Groove varied from wet to horribly slimy but provided mostly good hand and right foot jams and was fairly slabby, so not too bad. At one point the hand jams ran out and the left footholds on the slabby face were desperately thin, thought I might be off but a pull up to a slimy fist jam saved the day! Probably fine when dry but definitely E3.5 in the conditions... Andy led through to the end of the climbing, from where there was a pitch of scrambling / walking to get to the top.
Andrew Wilson 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S P2
with Misha
P2
with Misha
Flavio 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Well good. Like 3 E3s stacked on top of each other. I recommend sitting on top of the slab to get the best spectator view of your second "enjoying" the 40m chimney. "I'm jamming mushy mushy peas!"
Well good. Like 3 E3s stacked on top of each other. I recommend sitting on top of the slab to get the best spectator view of your second "enjoying" the 40m chimney. "I'm jamming mushy mushy peas!"
JendeHoxar 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
ferdia 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd dnf got on late and already mizzling. second pitch good but gopping so third wasn't really on. ran up the sheaf by headtorch. great cloggy day.
with Tony Stone
got on late and already mizzling. second pitch good but gopping so third wasn't really on. ran up the sheaf by headtorch. great cloggy day.
with Tony Stone
UncleMephisto 16 May, 2016 AltLd dog Turns out forgetting head torches and after work trips to Cloggy don't combine well. A fantastic climb, the groove pitch is unbelievable, although I'm sure you can appreciate it more if it's not in the dark...
Turns out forgetting head torches and after work trips to Cloggy don't combine well. A fantastic climb, the groove pitch is unbelievable, although I'm sure you can appreciate it more if it's not in the dark...
robpartridge 16 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
James Thacker ??, 2016 -
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
Hidden 29 Jun, 2015 AltLd dog
dan gibson 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Tom Holdsworth, Tom Bridgeland
with Tom Holdsworth, Tom Bridgeland
Steve Crowe 23 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Tom Livingstone 20 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S P2 and P4. Old skool
with John Orr
P2 and P4. Old skool
with John Orr
Luxulyan 19 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Tom Murrell
with Tom Murrell
The old James turnbull 16 Jun, 2014 Lead lead first 3 pitches, dry enough and a bit cleaner after our ascent.
with tom grant
lead first 3 pitches, dry enough and a bit cleaner after our ascent.
with tom grant
malx ?Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 16 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Route was pretty wet, in particular Walsh's Groove which was thick slime so we had to skip altogether and did white slab instead. Lead pitches 2&4.
with James Moneypenny
Route was pretty wet, in particular Walsh's Groove which was thick slime so we had to skip altogether and did white slab instead. Lead pitches 2&4.
with James Moneypenny
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 AltLd
with Dave Woodcock
with Dave Woodcock
Hidden 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
mike mo 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Simon Davis 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Tim P
with Tim P
mike lawrence? 17 Jul, 2013 AltLd Lead first and third pitches. First is a bit sparse on gear in the top half. Walsh's groove surprisingly short.
Lead first and third pitches. First is a bit sparse on gear in the top half. Walsh's groove surprisingly short.
Hidden 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd
lukehunt 6 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Tom Ripley
with Tom Ripley
tim20 ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 Lead
cbeard 2 Jun, 2012 AltLd rpt Lead P2 and 4. Really exciting and varied climbing throughout. Got pumped on the first pitch with a backpack and fell, so repeated. Walsh's Groove was a unique experience!
Lead P2 and 4. Really exciting and varied climbing throughout. Got pumped on the first pitch with a backpack and fell, so repeated. Walsh's Groove was a unique experience!
Nick Russell 2 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Good introduction to Cloggy, I think, very enjoyable. Walsh's groove is brilliant - not as much of a struggle as I'd expected but my thighs were burning by the top!
with cbeard
Good introduction to Cloggy, I think, very enjoyable. Walsh's groove is brilliant - not as much of a struggle as I'd expected but my thighs were burning by the top!
with cbeard
Luke Brooks 29 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
willoates 29 May, 2012 AltLd O/S First three pitches all decent, quite a few loose bits. on the first and last pitch mainly.
First three pitches all decent, quite a few loose bits. on the first and last pitch mainly.
dan ely 24 May, 2012 Lead dnf led p1 and 2 then backed of as walsh's groove crack was full of slime. All of a sudden got very sick of climbing on wet dirty rock. disapointing reatreated up the hvs
with tony (army)
led p1 and 2 then backed of as walsh's groove crack was full of slime. All of a sudden got very sick of climbing on wet dirty rock. disapointing reatreated up the hvs
with tony (army)
Pete Graham ?May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lawledge
with Howard Lawledge
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2012 AltLd
with Alex Haslehurst
with Alex Haslehurst
Alex Mason 26 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1 & P3. Both were hard pitches. First one has some very run-out climbing, although retrospectively there was a cam slot (2.5) which I couldn't utilise so maybe its not too bad. Walsh's groove was wet, dirty and intimidating but it climbed easier than it looked like it would. Amazing route varied and high quality.
Led P1 & P3. Both were hard pitches. First one has some very run-out climbing, although retrospectively there was a cam slot (2.5) which I couldn't utilise so maybe its not too bad. Walsh's groove was wet, dirty and intimidating but it climbed easier than it looked like it would. Amazing route varied and high quality.
Duncan Campbell 26 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P2 and 4+5. Pitch 1 is tricky and bolder than I expected. P2 seems more like E3 5c and is a bit run-out, not the pitch I expected, though it looks like there is some rock-scarring so maybe a hold has been lost? The Walsh's groove was a fantastic tussle! Brilliant route! Hard for E3 and sustained to boot.
Led P2 and 4+5. Pitch 1 is tricky and bolder than I expected. P2 seems more like E3 5c and is a bit run-out, not the pitch I expected, though it looks like there is some rock-scarring so maybe a hold has been lost? The Walsh's groove was a fantastic tussle! Brilliant route! Hard for E3 and sustained to boot.
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
khawk 22 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with datoon
with datoon
datoon 22 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Couldn't do Walsh's Groove because it was too wet!
with K
Couldn't do Walsh's Groove because it was too wet!
with K
pauldrew 13 Jun, 2009 Lead rpt Led pitches 1 and 3. Walshes groove dry(ish).
with Kevin Sales
Led pitches 1 and 3. Walshes groove dry(ish).
with Kevin Sales
barni ?Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with kaff
with kaff
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Hidden ?May, 2007 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 15 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Tania Noakes
with Tania Noakes
mikeski ??, 2005 AltLd
Brian Rodgers ??, 2005 AltLd O/S Mike got the akward 'shoulder' pitch.
with mikeski
Mike got the akward 'shoulder' pitch.
with mikeski
Hidden 1 Aug, 2004 Lead O/S
sadams ?Aug, 2003 AltLd
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 12 Jul, 1999 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Jun, 1999 AltLd O/S
phardman ??, 1997 -
Martin Bennett 20 Jul, 1996 -
with Andy Dunhill
with Andy Dunhill
Neil McA 16 Jun, 1996 Lead O/S Led all the pitches
with Paul Jenkinson
Led all the pitches
with Paul Jenkinson
Hidden ?Jun, 1996 AltLd
richparry ??, 1996 -
Hidden ?Sep, 1995 AltLd
pete johnson 20 Aug, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Andy Robinson
with Andy Robinson
Dave Musgrove Jnr 2 Aug, 1995 AltLd
with Julian, Nick Ashton
with Julian, Nick Ashton
Campbell42 2 Jul, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Chris Wilson
with Chris Wilson
Cowflinger ?Jun, 1995 AltLd
with Jason
with Jason
keefe ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
WB ?Jun, 1994 AltLd O/S damp
with American Nick
damp
with American Nick
duncan ?Jun, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Dan Donovan
with Dan Donovan
MikePycroft ?Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
with Denis May
with Denis May
Hidden 9 May, 1993 AltLd
Hidden 28 Jun, 1992 AltLd O/S
Rob Davies 1 Sep, 1991 Lead dnf Completed run-out bit of P1, then retreated from block
with Angus McLean
Completed run-out bit of P1, then retreated from block
with Angus McLean
Billg ??, 1991 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton, Dave Gregory
with Jon Barton, Dave Gregory
michael burrows 5 Jul, 1990 AltLd O/S led 2nd half of pitch 1 and pitch 3
with ket
led 2nd half of pitch 1 and pitch 3
with ket
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?Jun, 1990 AltLd O/S
with John Mckeever, George reah
with John Mckeever, George reah
uphillnow 27 May, 1990 AltLd lead pitch 1,3 and 5
with john Aylewood
lead pitch 1,3 and 5
with john Aylewood
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
pauldrew ??, 1989 AltLd First E3 lead, led pitches 1 and 3
with Dominic Leggett
First E3 lead, led pitches 1 and 3
with Dominic Leggett
wynaptomos ?Jul, 1987 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Melok ??, 1985 -
Seymore Butt ??, 1985 AltLd
with Spuz
with Spuz
charlesmfrench 13 Aug, 1983 Lead O/S
with Nick
with Nick
Hidden 30 Jul, 1983 AltLd O/S
Bob 1 Jun, 1982 AltLd O/S One of the earlier routes I did at Cloggy. Didn't find Walsh's groove to be too bad.
with M. Lynch
One of the earlier routes I did at Cloggy. Didn't find Walsh's groove to be too bad.
with M. Lynch
clanger ??, 1982 Lead
with John Barry
with John Barry
Mike Owen 24 May, 1980 Lead O/S
with Elaine Watson
with Elaine Watson
cenotaphcorner 24 May, 1980 AltLd O/S
with Mick Gardiner
with Mick Gardiner
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Hidden 29 May, 1978 AltLd
Mark Kemball 15 Oct, 1977 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
with Sarah Bridge
Hidden 28 May, 1977 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1977 AltLd
Rick51 6 Jul, 1975 2nd
petemeads ?May, 1975 AltLd O/S I got to lead the Walsh's groove pitch - strenuous but well-protected - a wonderful route.
with Mick Brady
I got to lead the Walsh's groove pitch - strenuous but well-protected - a wonderful route.
with Mick Brady
sharpie ??, 1975 AltLd O/S
with Phill Thomas
with Phill Thomas
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 21
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set