Rockfax Description
This superb climb takes the most direct line on this side of the West Buttress - 'eliminate' in name but certainly not 'eliminate' in nature. Start below a red groove.
1) 5c, 35m. A serious pitch. Climb the groove for a short distance until you can move across the steep right wall on good, but spaced holds and up to ledges. Head up to a large block and climb the groove above with difficulty over a bulge to the base of the White Slab.
2) 5b, 40m. Climb the groove on the right-hand side of the slab to a shared belay on a flake.
3) 5b, 40m. Walsh's Groove. An amazing pitch up the main groove, requiring sustained back-and-foot techniques. Belay at the top of the slab on a ledge over to the left on White Slab.
4) 4a, 12m. Climb easily up behind the belay to a crevassed stance on the right. This is P6 of White Slab.
5) 5a, 30m. Either finish as for White Slab P7 (4c), or step left and follow the slab to the top, Longland's Direct Finish (5a). © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Alex's Wales ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Ingle Routes, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

The Grist 19/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Misha 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Hard very trad, aka proper mountain E3. Led P1, which felt a bit goey due to some questionable gear and uncertainty of line but the moves were mostly no more than 5b. The 5c crux towards the top is reasonably well protected, especially if you save a red cam (I only had a green one, which was ok). Hardly any chalk on it and the line is not obvious, so felt like a proper trad quest. Andy led P2, which is much trickier than it looks and a bit bold in places, probably the best pitch on the day. I did P3, starting up a narrow V groove above where Andy belayed - from the topos it looks like you aren't actually meant to go there but it was a nice aperitif for what was to come! The corner crack of Walsh's Groove varied from wet to horribly slimy but provided mostly good hand and right foot jams and was fairly slabby, so not too bad. At one point the hand jams ran out and the left footholds on the slabby face were desperately thin, thought I might be off but a pull up to a slimy fist jam saved the day! Probably fine when dry but definitely E3.5 in the conditions... Andy led through to the end of the climbing, from where there was a pitch of scrambling / walking to get to the top.

with Andy W
Andrew Wilson 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S


with Misha
Flavio 17/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Well good. Like 3 E3s stacked on top of each other. I recommend sitting on top of the slab to get the best spectator view of your second "enjoying" the 40m chimney. "I'm jamming mushy mushy peas!"

JendeHoxar 17/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
ferdia 23/Jul/16 AltLd dnf

got on late and already mizzling. second pitch good but gopping so third wasn't really on. ran up the sheaf by headtorch. great cloggy day.

with Tony Stone
UncleMephisto 16/May/16 AltLd dog

Turns out forgetting head torches and after work trips to Cloggy don't combine well. A fantastic climb, the groove pitch is unbelievable, although I'm sure you can appreciate it more if it's not in the dark...

robpartridge 16/May/16 AltLd O/S
James Thacker ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
FreddieSmith 29/Jun/15 AltLd dog

Amazing route, Walshs groove was a gunge canal.

with Danny Grifths
dan gibson 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Holdsworth, Tom Bridgeland
Steve Crowe 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with KM
Tom Livingstone 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P2 and P4. Old skool

with John Orr
Luxulyan 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Murrell
The old James turnbull 16/Jun/14 Lead

lead first 3 pitches, dry enough and a bit cleaner after our ascent.

with tom grant
malx ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 16/May/14 AltLd O/S

Route was pretty wet, in particular Walsh's Groove which was thick slime so we had to skip altogether and did white slab instead. Lead pitches 2&4.

with James Moneypenny
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Dave Woodcock
Hidden 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
mike mo 21/Jul/13 AltLd
Simon Davis 20/Jul/13 AltLd
with Tim P
mike lawrence? 17/Jul/13 AltLd

Lead first and third pitches. First is a bit sparse on gear in the top half. Walsh's groove surprisingly short.

with FatRob
Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd
lukehunt 06/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom Ripley
tim20 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
cbeard 02/Jun/12 AltLd rpt

Lead P2 and 4. Really exciting and varied climbing throughout. Got pumped on the first pitch with a backpack and fell, so repeated. Walsh's Groove was a unique experience!

Nick Russell 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Good introduction to Cloggy, I think, very enjoyable. Walsh's groove is brilliant - not as much of a struggle as I'd expected but my thighs were burning by the top!

Luke Brooks 29/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Will
willoates 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

First three pitches all decent, quite a few loose bits. on the first and last pitch mainly.

with Luke
dan ely 24/May/12 Lead dnf

led p1 and 2 then backed of as walsh's groove crack was full of slime. All of a sudden got very sick of climbing on wet dirty rock. disapointing reatreated up the hvs

with tony (army)
Pete Graham ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lawledge
Hidden ??/2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 AltLd
with Alex Haslehurst
Alex Mason 26/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3. Both were hard pitches. First one has some very run-out climbing, although retrospectively there was a cam slot (2.5) which I couldn't utilise so maybe its not too bad. Walsh's groove was wet, dirty and intimidating but it climbed easier than it looked like it would. Amazing route varied and high quality.

Duncan Campbell 26/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and 4+5. Pitch 1 is tricky and bolder than I expected. P2 seems more like E3 5c and is a bit run-out, not the pitch I expected, though it looks like there is some rock-scarring so maybe a hold has been lost? The Walsh's groove was a fantastic tussle! Brilliant route! Hard for E3 and sustained to boot.

with Mason
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
khawk 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
with DT
datoon 22/May/10 AltLd O/S

Couldn't do Walsh's Groove because it was too wet!

with K
pauldrew 13/Jun/09 Lead rpt

Led pitches 1 and 3. Walshes groove dry(ish).

with Kevin Sales
barni ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with kaff
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 15/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Tania Noakes
mikeski ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/04 Lead O/S
sadams ?/Aug/03 AltLd
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 12/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
phardman ??/1997 -
Martin Bennett 20/Jul/96 -
with Andy Dunhill
Hidden ?/Jun/96 AltLd
richparry ??/1996 -
Hidden ?/Sep/95 AltLd
pete johnson 20/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
with Andy Robinson
Dave Musgrove Jnr 02/Aug/95 AltLd
with Julian, Nick Ashton
Campbell42 02/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
with Chris Wilson
Cowflinger ?/Jun/95 AltLd
with Jason
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
WB ?/Jun/94 AltLd O/S


with American Nick
duncan ?/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
with Dan Donovan
Hidden 09/May/93 AltLd
Rich Kirby 28/Jun/92 AltLd O/S

Led 1st, 3rd amd 4th pitches. Great route...Walshes Groove was damp and interesting.

with Andy Mackay
Rob Davies 01/Sep/91 Lead dnf

Completed run-out bit of P1, then retreated from block

with Angus McLean
Billg ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton, Dave Gregory
michael burrows 05/Jul/90 AltLd O/S

led 2nd half of pitch 1 and pitch 3

with ket
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/90 AltLd O/S
with John Mckeever, George reah
uphillnow 27/May/90 AltLd

lead pitch 1,3 and 5

with john Aylewood
wynaptomos ?/Jul/87 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Melok ??/1985 -
Seymore Butt ??/1985 AltLd
with Spuz
charlesmfrench 13/Aug/83 Lead O/S
with Nick
Bob 01/Jun/82 AltLd O/S

One of the earlier routes I did at Cloggy. Didn't find Walsh's groove to be too bad.

with M. Lynch
Mike Owen 24/May/80 Lead O/S
with Elaine Watson
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1980 -
with Mick Tolley
Hidden 29/May/78 AltLd
Mark Kemball 15/Oct/77 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
Hidden 28/May/77 AltLd
Hidden ??/1977 AltLd
petemeads ?/May/75 AltLd O/S

I got to lead the Walsh's groove pitch - strenuous but well-protected - a wonderful route.

with Mick Brady
sharpie ??/1975 AltLd O/S
with Phill Thomas
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 18
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set