220m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
VS. The most popular route on this face by a margin. It has some shrubbery (and gulls), though the climbing higher up is worthwhile. There is a fair bit of fixed gear, so carry a light rack.
1) 4, 25m. Climb the awkward, narrow and slippery chimney in the right-hand side of the bay, then move right over a bulge to a good ledge on the right.
2) 3, 50m. Bush-bash up to the top of the buttress on the right.
3) 3, 20m. Climb the rib above, then traverse 8m left to a belay.
4) 5, 20m. Climb straight up the steep chimney to a ledge and continue to a stance on the top of the second buttress.
5) 4+, 25m. Step around the corner to the right, and climb up an easy, low-angled, broad ramp to the top of the buttress.
6) 4, 30m. Climb the slab slightly leftwards to a crack leading to the summit. Follow this in a fine position to a stance and belay about 15m up the crack system.
7) 4+, 30m. Follow the crack - awkward low down, but easing as height is gained. Where it becomes vegetated, pull out left onto the rib (bolt) and follow this, eventually moving left into another groove that leads to the cliff top and a belay on easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Panyella, Salas 1955

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Steff 31 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice route. Despite a vegetated second pitch it's well worth it, especially in summer, when it is too hot to climb on south face. Much less fixed gear than on Valencianos. Take plenty of tat for threads. The summit trig point can be used for the last belay, which impresses the tourists. ;-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very nice route. Despite a vegetated second pitch it's well worth it, especially in summer, when it is too hot to climb on south face. Much less fixed gear than on Valencianos. Take plenty of tat for threads. The summit trig point can be used for the last belay, which impresses the tourists. ;-)
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 20 Jul Lead O/S
rgd1977 12 Mar Lead O/S
franwhelan 4 Mar AltLd O/S
noelshannon 4 Mar AltLd
with Francis whelan
with Francis whelan
Mark Eddy 1 Mar Lead Guiding Jo & Steve for the final day of their climbing holiday. Great day out. More in-situ threads have been added, so only 2 nuts and 1 cam placed throughout the whole route.
Guiding Jo & Steve for the final day of their climbing holiday. Great day out. More in-situ threads have been added, so only 2 nuts and 1 cam placed throughout the whole route.
scon 14 Feb AltLd
Hidden 4 Feb Lead
Steve Clegg 15 Jan AltLd
with Ted
with Ted
martin c 4 Jan Lead O/S
with Paul G
with Paul G
Hidden 30 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
ronan96 30 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Neil Dickson
with Neil Dickson
Hidden 6 Dec, 2018 Lead rpt
Ems_82 6 Dec, 2018 2nd
Ian Campbell 21 Nov, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 21 Nov, 2018 2nd O/S
Adele Long 1 Nov, 2018 AltLd Note older guidebooks do not say to move out on pitch 1. The chimney just gets tighter if you dont. Pitch 6: keep to right of rock bulge and then move onto the rib.
with Derek Buckle, Howard
Note older guidebooks do not say to move out on pitch 1. The chimney just gets tighter if you dont. Pitch 6: keep to right of rock bulge and then move onto the rib.
with Derek Buckle, Howard
Redneck 5 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S I lead the first pitch, John managed the rest...
with John
I lead the first pitch, John managed the rest...
with John
PanzerHanzler 16 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S Led pitch1, 4, 6 and most of 7.
Led pitch1, 4, 6 and most of 7.
alexkitts 31 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Simul-climbed with Matt to catch up with the others - took a fairly direct route up after the bush bashing
Simul-climbed with Matt to catch up with the others - took a fairly direct route up after the bush bashing
Cragstrong 30 Mar, 2018 -
with Sapphire McNiell
with Sapphire McNiell
jonathan_doyle 30 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S A couple of nice pitches, although interspersed with a lot of mediocre climbing. Definitely not the classic it is hyped up to be.
with Aoife Marrett
A couple of nice pitches, although interspersed with a lot of mediocre climbing. Definitely not the classic it is hyped up to be.
with Aoife Marrett
Matt Amos 30 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Simul climbed. Vastly overgraded and overrated in my opinion.
Simul climbed. Vastly overgraded and overrated in my opinion.
Elliot Strowger 29 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Very run out in sections, only placed 7 pieces of gear on the whole route, very easy and enjoyable climbing.
Very run out in sections, only placed 7 pieces of gear on the whole route, very easy and enjoyable climbing.
ladempsey 1 Jan, 2018 AltLd
with Nancy Huang, ice bank mice elf
with Nancy Huang, ice bank mice elf
ice bank mice elf 1 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
konna 20 Dec, 2017 Lead rpt All pitches lead by me.
with RWithy
All pitches lead by me.
with RWithy
RWithy 20 Dec, 2017 2nd β
with konna
with konna
Hidden 17 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
J D Bird 17 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S Great route, real classic! 3rd pitch traverse is brilliant!
with HuckT
Great route, real classic! 3rd pitch traverse is brilliant!
with HuckT
Kenhard 27 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S I climbed 1,3,5 and 7. Daz climbed 2,4 and 6. The ‘5’ pitch (pt 4) wasn’t that difficult. Pitch 6 felt harder. Last pitch seemed off route a little up the gulley.
with Skelton RCI INSTRUCTOR, Daz RCI
I climbed 1,3,5 and 7. Daz climbed 2,4 and 6. The ‘5’ pitch (pt 4) wasn’t that difficult. Pitch 6 felt harder. Last pitch seemed off route a little up the gulley.
with Skelton RCI INSTRUCTOR, Daz RCI
tdoyle 27 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Eggy, ryan1410
with Eggy, ryan1410
ryan1410 27 Nov, 2017 AltLd RCI - Ex Spanrock. Lead P2,4&6. I would say take more than a light rack, a lot of gear needed. Disagree with the grading, some easier, some harder. Brilliant route and good belays!
with Eggy, tdoyle
RCI - Ex Spanrock. Lead P2,4&6. I would say take more than a light rack, a lot of gear needed. Disagree with the grading, some easier, some harder. Brilliant route and good belays!
with Eggy, tdoyle
TheSingularity 27 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
John Brayshaw 9 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S A long anticipated route and it didn't disappoint
with John Ward
A long anticipated route and it didn't disappoint
with John Ward
Hidden 7 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
gaz3212 7 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
Andypeak 7 Nov, 2017 AltLd No harder than vdiff
No harder than vdiff
Yox89 7 Nov, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 5 Nov, 2017 -
Hidden 26 Oct, 2017 AltLd
Stiga 19 Oct, 2017 AltLd
with Mark eddy
with Mark eddy
Mark Eddy 17 Oct, 2017 AltLd Seeking shade on a hot day, this route worked a treat. Good and varied climbing throughout and a really fun day
with Stig
Seeking shade on a hot day, this route worked a treat. Good and varied climbing throughout and a really fun day
with Stig
Hidden 24 Sep, 2017 2nd
Mark Eddy 24 Sep, 2017 Lead Lead 5 pitches climbing with Parallel rope work and finished off with 2 pitches of climbing in Series. A good day
with Tricia Aylward, KateA
Lead 5 pitches climbing with Parallel rope work and finished off with 2 pitches of climbing in Series. A good day
with Tricia Aylward, KateA
richardsavill 1 Sep, 2017 AltLd Nice route, did rain upwards at one point, hid in the cave at the start of P4 but still warm!
Nice route, did rain upwards at one point, hid in the cave at the start of P4 but still warm!
sarahrowlands 1 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
aiyer 1 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Did some simul climbing, so much fun!
with Dave
Did some simul climbing, so much fun!
with Dave
mikestr555 18 Mar, 2017 AltLd pitch 1/4/6
pitch 1/4/6
Lea84 8 Mar, 2017 2nd O/S
with Sam Marsland, Kate Ayres, Mark Eddy
with Sam Marsland, Kate Ayres, Mark Eddy
Hidden 8 Mar, 2017 -
Mark Eddy 8 Mar, 2017 Lead
with KateA
with KateA
Mark Eddy 9 Feb, 2017 Lead As a team of 3 today
with Kim Jackson, Ann Leese
As a team of 3 today
with Kim Jackson, Ann Leese
Mark Eddy 4 Feb, 2017 Lead A good route despite a fair bit of shrubbery. Route finding was pretty straightforward, with the occasional bolt marking the way. All belays are equipped. About 3 hours on the route.
with Kim Jackson
A good route despite a fair bit of shrubbery. Route finding was pretty straightforward, with the occasional bolt marking the way. All belays are equipped. About 3 hours on the route.
with Kim Jackson
danielwoodentop ?Feb, 2017 AltLd
Duncan 88 19 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
MazElden 13 Nov, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 4 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
BenGraham 29 Oct, 2016 AltLd
Tony Myers 29 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
carlh 29 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S The route inmproved as it progressed, as did the shrubbery! I could have done with a machete for the route finding on the second pitch! Not my most favourate route on the Penon, but a relatively easy way to the summit and a good option if looking to escape the sun.
with John Makin
The route inmproved as it progressed, as did the shrubbery! I could have done with a machete for the route finding on the second pitch! Not my most favourate route on the Penon, but a relatively easy way to the summit and a good option if looking to escape the sun.
with John Makin
Issy 17 Oct, 2016 AltLd
with NeilHowarth
with NeilHowarth
LivBarron 1 Oct, 2016 AltLd
mrs milf 25 Sep, 2016 AltLd Led p1, half of p3, p5, p7
with John Cook
Led p1, half of p3, p5, p7
with John Cook
Irelando 9 Sep, 2016 Lead
MaxDewing 28 Mar, 2016 2nd A good route despite a fair bit of shrubbery. Route finding was pretty straightforward, with the occasional bolt marking the way. All belays are equipped. About 3 hours on the route.
with Ray Peace
A good route despite a fair bit of shrubbery. Route finding was pretty straightforward, with the occasional bolt marking the way. All belays are equipped. About 3 hours on the route.
with Ray Peace
KatieTansley 28 Mar, 2016 2nd
with Ray Peace
with Ray Peace
Puckle 19 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
mjeffery 19 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with Puckle
with Puckle
tmawer 4 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S Set off to do Diedro Botella but too prickly to get to!
Set off to do Diedro Botella but too prickly to get to!
MazElden 4 Dec, 2015 AltLd
with tmawer
with tmawer
Hidden 4 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S
Richimc 30 Oct, 2015 2nd
with Danielle blood, Steve bostock
with Danielle blood, Steve bostock
DanielleBlood 29 Oct, 2015 2nd
with Richy, Steve
with Richy, Steve
danielsclarke73 2 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S North Face in 7 pitches. Grade VS
with Ryan Lang, David Robson
North Face in 7 pitches. Grade VS
with Ryan Lang, David Robson
pdamann 16 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Had done the first pitch last year, but Nick led that this time. I led P2, 4 and 6. P4 was fun, and P6 was also pretty nice with good views. Met Steve McClure at the top having his lunch.
Had done the first pitch last year, but Nick led that this time. I led P2, 4 and 6. P4 was fun, and P6 was also pretty nice with good views. Met Steve McClure at the top having his lunch.
Hidden 1 Nov, 2014 Lead
tiga271 20 Oct, 2014 AltLd Led 2,4 & 6 . Went a bit off route on Pitch 6 finishing up shrubby crack
with Dave
Led 2,4 & 6 . Went a bit off route on Pitch 6 finishing up shrubby crack
with Dave
Hidden 16 Oct, 2014 Lead
mikecollins 12 Oct, 2014 Lead Got engaged at the top! Seagulls and feral cats - dead romantic
Got engaged at the top! Seagulls and feral cats - dead romantic
Lauradavies23 12 Oct, 2014 2nd
Hidden ?Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
jon59 23 Mar, 2014 Lead
pdamann 20 Feb, 2014 Lead dnf Horribly grotty first pitch which I led cleanly to the first belay. I took ages, getting stuck wiht bag on my back, and not spotting the way out the chimney. We lost motivation after that (Joby decided not to follow), so we retreated.
with Ed Russell
Horribly grotty first pitch which I led cleanly to the first belay. I took ages, getting stuck wiht bag on my back, and not spotting the way out the chimney. We lost motivation after that (Joby decided not to follow), so we retreated.
with Ed Russell
Michael Haywood 12 Feb, 2014 AltLd
with Tim Chamberlain
with Tim Chamberlain
UnkArl 3 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S P1,3,5,7 Uncle Bill P2,4,6 me Climbed in a 3 in 3:15hrs (5:20 door to door)
with Uncle Bill, Connorsgrandad
P1,3,5,7 Uncle Bill P2,4,6 me Climbed in a 3 in 3:15hrs (5:20 door to door)
with Uncle Bill, Connorsgrandad
JonesJ 15 Nov, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 1 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
Zoomer 1 Nov, 2013 2nd O/S Great route, easy climbing with plenty of trad gear. Went a little off route on the last two pitches. Soft at grade but excellent belays and views.
Great route, easy climbing with plenty of trad gear. Went a little off route on the last two pitches. Soft at grade but excellent belays and views.
Jess Mills 24 Aug, 2013 2nd
Hidden 23 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
betathief 21 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
Mikejamoon 21 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
ColinVern 21 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S Very spaced out bolts. Beware seagulls.
with Mike Thomson
Very spaced out bolts. Beware seagulls.
with Mike Thomson
Tarquin 26 Nov, 2012 Lead
with Louvet
with Louvet
Louvet 26 Nov, 2012 2nd
with Tarquin
with Tarquin
daveyji 28 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Linda Williamson
with Linda Williamson
mattgrange 25 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Could do with more cleaning and less undergrowth, but a fine easy expedition anyway
Could do with more cleaning and less undergrowth, but a fine easy expedition anyway
LardClimber 25 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
jon clayton ?Apr, 2012 AltLd
with sasha
with sasha
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 15 Dec, 2011 2nd
Martin Bennett 13 Dec, 2011 -
with Ali
with Ali
Hidden 11 Nov, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 9 Nov, 2011 AltLd
execlimber ?Nov, 2011 Lead O/S First two pitches were pretty overgrown and slippy. Improves alot as we gained height. Very Very windy.
First two pitches were pretty overgrown and slippy. Improves alot as we gained height. Very Very windy.
Tenko 12 Oct, 2011 AltLd
with Guy Williams
with Guy Williams
joscott ?Sep, 2011 2nd
with Sun and Rock
with Sun and Rock
Rowan Mitchell 29 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S P1 Charlie, P2 Me, P3 C, P4 Me, P5 & P6 C, P7 Me
with Charlie Jeynes
P1 Charlie, P2 Me, P3 C, P4 Me, P5 & P6 C, P7 Me
with Charlie Jeynes
Dan63 14 Jan, 2011 2nd O/S All the climb was in the shade - got a bit cold
with David Bagley
All the climb was in the shade - got a bit cold
with David Bagley
seeroo 2 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S 3+ 50m scramble, what a mess
with Scone
3+ 50m scramble, what a mess
with Scone
charlesmfrench ??, 2011 AltLd O/S Not sucha great route! Lots of vegetation that was sharp and nasty.
with Alex, Anette
Not sucha great route! Lots of vegetation that was sharp and nasty.
with Alex, Anette
Tarquin 14 Oct, 2010 Lead
Hidden 3 Jan, 2010 Lead rpt
konna 27 Mar, 2009 AltLd O/S lead the 1st 3rd 5th 7th.
lead the 1st 3rd 5th 7th.
John Roe 27 Mar, 2009 AltLd Excellent route, good rock. Discripion in the guide was alittle out. Pitch 5 was about 20m and pitch 4 felt as though it was streigh up, climb directly above the bolt to the stance.
with konna
Excellent route, good rock. Discripion in the guide was alittle out. Pitch 5 was about 20m and pitch 4 felt as though it was streigh up, climb directly above the bolt to the stance.
with konna
anyes varenne 8 Mar, 2009 AltLd anyes P2-3
with suzanne
anyes P2-3
with suzanne
sdht ??, 2009 -
GaryK 22 Dec, 2008 Lead O/S A bit srcappy, but good fun.
A bit srcappy, but good fun.
Zara_92 ?Oct, 2008 2nd
crisaitken ?Nov, 2007 AltLd
gordon henderson ?Nov, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 28 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Jul, 2007 2nd O/S
Hidden 19 Nov, 2006 AltLd O/S
mikelaing ??, 2006 -
Hidden 15 Dec, 2005 AltLd β
Will Gordon ?Dec, 2005 AltLd O/S 7 pitches.
7 pitches.
dan gibson ?Nov, 2005 Solo O/S
DerwentDiluted 22 Aug, 2005 AltLd
with Nicola Pettit
with Nicola Pettit
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead
hayleylouise 6 Sep, 2003 2nd
with Holly Adamthwaite, Mike Pohl
with Holly Adamthwaite, Mike Pohl
Hidden ?Sep, 2003 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2003 Lead O/S
Tarquin ??, 2003 -
Tarquin ??, 2001 -
Tarquin ??, 1999 -
Tarquin ??, 1997 -
Neil McA 30 Dec, 1995 Lead O/S
with Sue McAdie
with Sue McAdie
EddieA ?Nov, 1995 Solo O/S Good route as a committing scramble, probably a bit scrappy to climb in pitches
with Simon W
Good route as a committing scramble, probably a bit scrappy to climb in pitches
with Simon W
steve prior ?Jan, 1994 Lead
with Ally P, Roz C
with Ally P, Roz C
freeheel47 ??, 1993 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1990 AltLd
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Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
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Onsighted
Repeated
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DNF
Not Set