100m, 4 pitches.
Rockfax Description
E1. An interesting variation on Vía Valencianos.1) 4, 38m. Follow the first pitch of Valencianos, but move left to a bolt belay below the centre of the slab.2) 6a, 18m. Climb direct up the slab to a small stance in the middle of the easy traverse on Valencianos.3) 5+, 20m. Climb steeply to gain a fine slab that leads to belays.4) 5, 34m. Trend right up the right-hand bolt line up the steep wall (some fixed gear) to the great slab. Climb straight up this to join Valencianos. Either continue up this or make three long abseils. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jimullan110 | 6 Nov, 2023 |
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βeta: 6a slab is more 6b, especially in the heat! But it only lasts for 4 moves | βeta? | |
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βeta: 6a slab is more 6b, especially in the heat! But it only lasts for 4 moves |
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| GOS | 5 Mar, 2023 |
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βeta: P3 traverse right at start then back left to 1st bolt. P4 now 2 pitches 4a straight up from belay then up a diagonal crack ..trad gear...thread high up then a bolt. Step down and right to turn bulge and get to halfway belay. 4b take one of 2 parallel bolt lines to move up. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: P3 traverse right at start then back left to 1st bolt. P4 now 2 pitches 4a straight up from belay then up a diagonal crack ..trad gear...thread high up then a bolt. Step down and right to turn bulge and get to halfway belay. 4b take one of 2 parallel bolt lines to move up. |
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| adamski | 26 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Direct de UBSA is a fantastic route with the best pitch being the 4th pitch which is a intimidating traverse to regain the main slab. The sequence of moves to get onto the slab at the start of the second pitch are not F5. I would say they are around F6a+ and local climbers, apparently, also go with the F6a+ grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Direct de UBSA is a fantastic route with the best pitch being the 4th pitch which is a intimidating traverse to regain the main slab. The sequence of moves to get onto the slab at the start of the second pitch are not F5. I would say they are around F6a+ and local climbers, apparently, also go with the F6a+ grade. |
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| Chris Craggs | 27 Dec, 2006 |
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βeta: Well spotted that man! Not sure about the rest of them, but I have done it! Chris | βeta? | |
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βeta: Well spotted that man! Not sure about the rest of them, but I have done it! Chris |
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| Phil Murray | 27 Dec, 2006 |
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βeta: Do you mean the latter, Chris? Direct de UBSA *isn't* loose? (i see it has no abseil) ... is it any good i wonder, has anyone done it, as the line looks terrific. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Do you mean the latter, Chris? Direct de UBSA *isn't* loose? (i see it has no abseil) ... is it any good i wonder, has anyone done it, as the line looks terrific. |
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| Chris Craggs | 30 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: A few (all?) of these folks have done DIEDRE UBSA and not Direct de UBSA. The former is not loose and does not include an abseil!!!! Chris | ||
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Show beta
βeta: A few (all?) of these folks have done DIEDRE UBSA and not Direct de UBSA. The former is not loose and does not include an abseil!!!! Chris |
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Route of Interest
Triple Direct
Grade: 6a ***
(Mascarat)