100m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E1. An interesting variation on Vía Valencianos.
1) 4, 38m. Follow the first pitch of Valencianos, but move left to a bolt belay below the centre of the slab.
2) 6a, 18m. Climb direct up the slab to a small stance in the middle of the easy traverse on Valencianos.
3) 5+, 20m. Climb steeply to gain a fine slab that leads to belays.
4) 5, 34m. Trend right up the right-hand bolt line up the steep wall (some fixed gear) to the great slab. Climb straight up this to join Valencianos. Either continue up this or make three long abseils. © Rockfax

Jonny Crean 24/May AltLd
Hidden 20/Feb Lead RP
Abi Chard 01/Jan AltLd O/S
birks3746 25/Dec/17 Lead O/S

Christmas Day ascent in the sunshine! Got to lead everything apart from p1. Thought it a bit scrappy as routes go, p2 one move wonder and p4 very stiff for a 5 so probably went off line.

with Dad, Rich
will rivers 10/Dec/17 Lead O/S
with Mark
Andypeak 09/Nov/17 AltLd
gaz3212 09/Nov/17 AltLd RP
partz 13/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Big day out. The slab was very well protected with bolts, and happy I didnt pull on the cord! The steeper section was all big hold pocket pulling and climbed quite well. End of pitch 3 in the bush was a bit prickly, and the rope drag (single rope) on pitch 4 was a bit annoying. Rest of the route was pretty absorbing, including the long polished pitch up to the ridge which was pretty good. Glad we chose this over Via Valencios!

Bones [:B 02/Dec/16 AltLd dog

Guy led the 6a+ pitch from sensacion to the top of the ridge and then we finished with valencianos. I led the first and final pitches (4/4+). Dogged the 6a+ slab pitch.

guy127917 02/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Did 6a+ pitch from sensacion to the top of the ridge and finished up valencianos

craig naylor 04/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
with Tony
Hidden ?/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth 16/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Very good route, my first on the Penon. Couple of tough pitches on the slab that felt solid for the grade. We continued up Via Valencianos to the summit, 8 pitches in total.

kitkat78 30/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

P1, P3, P5 to the ridge then P7 to top. Mark got the "interesting" pitches - firstly due to polish then due to an absence of bolts on P4. Start of P3 is steep!

with Mark B
Marq 30/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2, 4, 6. Pitch 4 doesn't have any bolts on it!

gav 23/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Graham lead the first pitch and then on into the second. After a while, I checked the topo and advised that he was about 5m too far right. This it turns out it's much harder, so he traversed back onto the correct line and then finished the pitch. After collecting his gear from out right, I made a meal out of the third pitch. Debs then took the traverse, Graham to the ridge and Debs again to the bottom of the final scramble to the summit. I made a mess of this whole climb, but somehow made it to the top. One of those days. 23/Dec/15 AltLd
with gav
steve2006 22/Dec/15 Lead dnf

completed the third pitch but my belay partners struggled to start the pitch. so finished doing Vía Valencianos.

with david moore, elli webb
Ellie.Webb 22/Dec/15 2nd dnf
Hidden 02/Oct/15 AltLd dog
mjeffery 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
redshapedfriday 10/Dec/14 AltLd
with Debs Climber
mikecollins 10/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Did P1, 2, 3 clean then ab'ed off as we were baking in the sun and not sure where the route went. P2&3 felt very tough and very polished. Fixed gear was almost none existent or pointless

Lauradavies23 10/Oct/14 2nd
mikestr555 31/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

mixed with sensacion de vivir lead pitches P2 6a P3 6a to 6b+ P5 5 P6 4

carlh 31/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Ian MK 11/Oct/13 AltLd
with hotfeet
Hidden 11/Oct/13 2nd
hotfeet 11/Oct/13 AltLd
Dave Sr 24/Mar/13 Lead O/S

P2&P3,6a+ Excellent route but bit pulished makes it lose some interest

with Fran, Berta
AlexHerbert79 ?/Feb/13 2nd

First few days of outdoor cl;imbing, first multi-pitch, very exposed, very bold, and I ended up lowering off part way though the second pitch. Lucky someone got the carabiner we left behind. I'll be back!!

Hidden 04/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
SeánM 16/Apr/12 AltLd
SeánM 16/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
absolutebeginner 05/Apr/11 2nd
with Rich#, Nick
RossT 17/Feb/11 AltLd

Hard for the grade.

with Colin
owb106 01/Jan/11 AltLd O/S


with Matt Kendall
JimBee ?/Nov/10 2nd dog

P2 M. Took a deliberate short cut instead of following P2 of Via Valencianos - what a mistake! Horrible pitch, very polished and hard climbing. Lots of pitons / old bolts but fingery and felt more like 6a+, not helped by carrying too much gear, food & water.

with Matt Ellis
Hidden 08/Sep/10 -
KevB 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Dive-bombed by sea gulls

with Matt S
Phil Murray 02/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Second pitch is 6a+ not 5. Next pitch is 6a not 5+. Both pitches are brilliant, tho. Take some small wires and cams. Amazing day out, 3rd time I've climbed the Penyon but first time I've flashed it. Led all pitches.

with Sam Bloor, Fenella
dh4096 ?/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Ali.B ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Agree, grades for some of the pitches should be increased. rising diagalonal lead which disappears around corner and then hits final slab would benefit from a belay stance before u disappear around the corner. View at the top of the ridge looking down on Calpe is so worth all of the effort. Small rack was needed.

mark4344 14/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Great route, tough for grade. Several pitches should be upgraded 1 grade. small trad rack useful

with michel schonewille
Hidden 19/Feb/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead
Phil PBC ??/2008 -
Julie Carroll ?/May/07 AltLd
with Carole Dawson
Hidden 22/Mar/07 AltLd dog
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden 19/Oct/06 AltLd
cem 03/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
with Dave Amos
King Rat ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with A
Hidden 31/Mar/05 Lead
antroy 23/Mar/05 AltLd
GavinB ?/Nov/03 Lead O/S
nige pacer ?/Apr/00 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/99 AltLd
pete johnson 06/Jan/98 -
with Lun
chris sm ?/Dec/95 AltLd O/S
with Andy Gill
Hidden 09/Dec/94 AltLd
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High 6a+
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High 6a
Mid 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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Votes cast 18
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