207m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant route which is one of the best in the area. The climbing is superb and independent, and the finish is breathtaking. It is fully equipped. Start as for Vía Valencianos.
1) -, 15m. Move up, then right along a ledge to belay below a slab.
2) 6b, 40m. Climb onto a slab and make some thin moves up leftwards. Easier climbing leads up and right to a belay.
3) 6b, 35m. Climb directly up the wall and grooves above.
4) 6a, 35m. Continue to a stance on the edge of the pinnacle.
5) 6b+, 32m. Step down and across the gully onto the wall behind. Surmount a small overhang and continue up the wall above with some sustained moves and long reaches.
6) 6b+, 20m. Straight up the wall to the large upper cave.
7) 6c+, 30m. Swing wildly out of the cave and grind to a halt at thin move. After a rest another hard move, involving a blind reach, gains easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

FA. Jaime Arviza, Salvador Guerola 1993

Ticklists: Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 03/Jul AltLd
tmawer 24/Mar AltLd

led pitches 1 & 4. Touched a bolt on pitch 4 and fell off top pitch after missing the hidden hold out left.... Brilliant route.

with Bram, stephm
BTphonehome 24/Mar AltLd

P4&6. Day 6 team heroics. Brilliant route. Fell on P4 and had to rest coming out of the cave on final pitch. What a great experience.

with Steph, Tony
stephm 24/Mar AltLd O/S

lead pitches 2 and 3 I think! brilliant climbing. Pulled on quick draw once and fell off on top rope twice on 4th pitch same carry on on top pitch but with extra fear chucked in. Practice more roofs Steph!

with bram, Tony
Dave Douglas 07/Mar AltLd O/S

What a route. Some beta for those that want it. Scramble first pitch is loose so take a helmet. First 3 bolts of the first proper pitch is the hardest climbing on the route. 2nd pitch is long trad groove about right for the grade, but if pushing it you may want a few nuts for the start of the crack. 3rd pitch is fine. Nice ledge behind the pinnacle to belay on, but bolts are old! To belay from the new double bolt belay would give bad rope drag. 4th pitch is the crux. Polished and thin at the crux! Never 6b+, harder than top pitch. 5th pitch is never 6b+ either, 6a or 6a+ at most. Lovely exposure. Top pitch is easy for thugs. Just remember that half way up when you can't see any holds, reach left to a hidden jug. Four stars!

sam clingclangclimb 07/Mar -

With dave and neil. Great

td72 17/Feb AltLd O/S

All pitches clean. Started at around 8:40, finished in 3 hours. I led 3,5,7. Last pitch felt soft but 6b+ pitch up the wall felt hard at the grade, especially if you don't find the hidden jug to the left after the mono sequence. Really good positions and really good climbing!

Dangerous Dave 10/Feb AltLd O/S

Superb route

with Dave O
Mark Reeves ?/Feb -
Abi Chard 25/Jan AltLd
with Ian
manbat 14/Jan AltLd

Deserving of its top 50 status! I led P2, 4 and 6. P5 was really sustained and hard, came so close to falling at one point. The next 6b+ pitch was a total cruise by comparison. Fell of the last pitch moving out of the first arete. Found an awesome knee bar which helped me nail the move! Brilliant stuff!

with Luke Randall
elbeanio 11/Jan AltLd dog

lead 1,3,5 all clean. had one rest following on 6b+ and dogged/french free'd the crux 6c+ pitch (had bag + both our shoes on harness). first time up the Penon, amazing climbing all the way up.

with Jack
Hidden ?/Jan AltLd O/S
Wendy Watthews 29/Dec/16 AltLd

Amazing route, lead p2 and p4, Beni lead the rest. Had a tight rope for most of the top pitch and came off trying to find the hidden hold.

with Beni
beni 29/Dec/16 AltLd
Hidden 27/Dec/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
rachelpearce01 02/Dec/16 AltLd

Led 1,3,5 and 7. Amazing route. Pitch 5 super polished. Top pitch very exciting !!! Rested coming out of the cave. Biggest climb to date yet!

with George Sanderson
Hidden ?/Dec/16 Lead
KKilroy 12/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Great stuff altogether. Friendly holiday style.

with claire
hfotheri 31/Oct/16 AltLd dog

Amazing route. Well worth doing

with simon
robertmichaeladams 30/Oct/16 AltLd

quality route, top pitch is pretty wild

with Doug Sharpe
bwestwood 01/May/16 AltLd

Late start 4hrs to top-1 light sack! Happy!

pie_eater_pete 01/May/16 Lead O/S
Elia 23/Apr/16 AltLd

We traverse to avoid the last two pitches. A bit too hard for our grade.

Hidden 11/Feb/16 AltLd
eel 05/Jan/16 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden 05/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
DavidR 30/Dec/15 AltLd rpt

Pitch 1 - Dave; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Dave. 3.5 hours. Done clean this time. Very pleased. Didn't remember much about it other than that there was a hidden hold on the crux pitch!

afterthesend 20/Nov/15 AltLd dog

Climbed with Seb, all clean until last pitch, one rest on bolt.

AC1 23/Oct/15 -

Stances well equipped except the first one, but the bolts are seriously corroded on pitches 2 (groove) and 4 (great climbing behind the pinnacle but polished). climbed alt finish on left.

TRFrost 10/Apr/15 AltLd
with J. Hulbert
spidermonkey09 10/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

What a route! Every pitch three stars, and they're all a little bit soft for the grade as well so no reason not to try. Every belay with rings so can retreat if needed. Led first 6b pitch, 6a pitch, second 6b+ pitch and the top 6c+ pitch. Pleased to do it clean seconding as well. Go to it!

alice fuller 26/Feb/15 2nd

Honour to second Brian . Superb climbing. wellbolted last pitch.

Brian H 26/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Had to reverse from crux on top pitch to leave rucksack with Alice. It felt OK then and enjoyed watching Alice get up it carrying two sacks! Brilliant and memorable route.

with Alice
Trisha Murphy 09/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
afrosam 09/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
LeeWood 01/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Classic stuff! L1,6b: desperate start from cold. L2,6b: steeper and more sustained. L3,6a: does 6a come better than this? L4,6b+: descent into gully makes rope security well dodgy; hard-6c. L5,6b+ straightforward soft-6b. L6,6c+: adrenaline overdose, a fitting climax!

Nickc ?/Jan/15 Lead O/S
reima 26/Dec/14 AltLd dog
with Niamh
redshapedfriday 24/Dec/14 Lead dog

Great climb, enjoyed every pitch and would happily climb it again.

Rachel S 24/Dec/14 AltLd dog

Fell on the top pitch.

Hidden 19/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Ally Smith 13/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Entertaining up draft - quick draws were floating around at chest height!

with Ken
admackie 12/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

clean enough. top pitch was out there, great route

with andy
Andy Peak 1 12/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

The best building to a fantastic finale pitch 1,3,5,7 summit hariebo was enjoyed by all.

pearson9596 01/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
ian d f 01/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
daxtari 13/Nov/14 AltLd dog

2 falls in final (6c+) pitch as second with "extra" luggage

John Tanner 05/Nov/14 AltLd dog

Gutted after getting this clean 4 years previous! Great route though

dbrooks 05/Nov/14 AltLd dog

led pitches 3, 5 and 7.... slipped on the polished 5th pitch and lacked the juice to get the crux pitch clean.. v.intimidating going out of the cave! amazing day

with John
Hidden 16/Apr/14 Lead RP
1poundSOCKS 27/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

I led the initial chossy scramble, the second 6b layback, and the second 6b+. Skipped the first 6b+ pitch when James did the 5+ trad pitch by accident. Had to French-free the last hard move on the last 6c+ pitch due to melting arms. Awesome route, right at my limit.

Hidden 27/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
mark20 01/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Maddie ??/2014 AltLd dog

Great day. Led P2, 4 and 6 all clean which I was pretty happy with. Slipped stupidly off some polish on 5 when we were off route (apparently!) anyways. Also struggled miserably on the top pitch as expected but thought it was amazing all the same. Bag and nervousness didnt help. Topped out to some of the guys and a picnic as well as a nice early finish to go for a beer. Pretty good!

with remus
mrteale 23/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 3,5 and 7. Climbed with Adam Looker. Greatest climb to date, pulling through the final moves were indescribable. A must-do! It definitely felt like the technical crux was on pitch 5 though, not to be underestimated! 10/10

alooker 23/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

P2,4,6. Brilliant. Go as light as you can.

with Ed
Lunar25 22/Dec/13 AltLd
with Dave LE
Hidden 22/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
Dunx 22/Oct/13 AltLd
with Steve Holmes
bryan61 19/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

pitches 1- 5 then finished on diedro ubsa

with ryan
IceBun 03/Apr/13 -

Blew the move on top pitch, careless.Great route.

with Wilson
Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd dog
leowestland ?/Mar/13 AltLd dog
andybirtwistle 14/Feb/13 Lead

Traversed off to avoid last pitch Great 6b+ the way we did it:)

with Tim Dunsby
Hidden 05/Jan/13 2nd
rustaldo 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S

great route! finished up los miserables, lots of quality pitches, personal fave was after the pinnacle, steep territory with good holds, although some polish. a very hot day. definitely go back for the cave pitch.

Albachoss 16/Dec/12 Lead dog

Lead clean pitches 2, 4, 6 clean. Seconded pitches 1, 3, 5 clean. Peeled off the fantastic last pitch, an unmissable experience.

with Ben
mikespooner 16/Dec/12 AltLd dnf
nimajneb 16/Dec/12 2nd
Hidden 16/Dec/12 AltLd
Hidden 14/Dec/12 Lead
Iggy_B 14/Dec/12 AltLd

Stuck behind a slow couple meant we abseiled after P5.

johannes 23/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Outstanding Route - so glad to have done it. Though I disagree quite a bit with the guidebook grades of the various pitches, imo: (scramble),6b,6a+,6a,6c,6a+,6c

Hidden 19/Nov/12 AltLd
daxtari 31/Oct/12 AltLd
chriscarroll 06/Apr/12 AltLd dog

Pulling out the cave is nails with a bag on

with Owain
owain86 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 4,5 and 7

with Chris, Greg
Trevera 01/Apr/12 AltLd
NaomiHart 16/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
PeteH 16/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

The only thing that would make this better would be if the pitch off the top of the pinnacle was another steep jugfest instead of having that delicate polished slopey section...

tim newton 01/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
HansStuttgart ??/2012 -

Some very nice pitches, top one is not that hard

elCapitano 19/Dec/11 AltLd

Led pitches 1,3,5 onsight. Clipped a bolt rest on pitch 6. Remainder onsight. Brilliant route, the best I've done. Just over 3 hours, felt very fast.

with Patch
Hidden 22/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Andrew1 21/Mar/11 AltLd
Hidden 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
eddieclimb 02/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

pt1,3,5 and 7 and the wife 2,4 and 6. This is the first big route I have done and what an amazing experience. If anyone is looking for a bit of exposure of a sporting nature then look no further, a little over 5 hours for the ascent. Pt5 more like 6c but the rest felt about right!

with Rebecca Edwards
dswansonlow 03/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with sarp
Hidden 02/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
richardhopton 10/Feb/10 AltLd dog

Amazing but opted not to attempt the roof this time

Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 08/Nov/09 2nd O/S
Jus 07/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Jake Shaw
Jake Shaw 07/Feb/09 -

Good route. Pretty friendly at the grade. Thought the crux move was on the supposed 6b+ pitch after the pinnacle/gully, which is more like 6c. Top pitch more like 6b+/6c

with Justin
Dave Reeve 01/Feb/09 AltLd
with Steve Hordley
67hours 02/Jan/09 2nd
Bristoldave 02/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Los miserables finish. One of the best routes I've done. George's 2nd multipitch

with George
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 30/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Rachel Hassall
Hidden 17/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
funsized ?/Dec/08 2nd β

One of my first big multipitches, so pretty much blew me away. One breathtaking fall when handhold came away (Thus not counted!!)

Hidden 07/Nov/08 AltLd
Ed Babs 16/Sep/08 AltLd dog

clean til last pitch

with Harry
maybe_si 10/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with charlie
derico 19/Mar/08 Lead β
with Chris Davis
Glyn 19/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Clean till last 6c+ pitch, had one rest while carrying a rucksack. Very good route!

Hidden ?/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
mgeek ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S
with greg boswell
Chubbard 26/Sep/07 AltLd dog

took about 4 hours

with C Godfrey
Hidden ?/Mar/07 AltLd rpt
dan gibson 22/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with martina
DavidR 02/Jan/07 AltLd dog

Pitch 1 - Dave; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hpol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Dave. 4.75 hours.

Hidden 02/Jan/07 AltLd O/S
Maciek ?/Jan/07 2nd dog
with Lukasz S.
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 17/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
ASchwirtz 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
Paul Robertson 26/Nov/05 AltLd O/S

Los Miserables finish. Still *** but only 6b+. A memorable route.

with DSM
Chad123 ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Emily
Luis SD ?/Mar/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jan/04 AltLd dog
Gus ??/2004 -
with luisa giles
Marc Murphy ?/May/03 2nd
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
Russell Birkett ?/Apr/02 AltLd

Superb!!

with Cher P
sharpie ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S
with PL
jamiev 16/Jan/02 AltLd O/S
with Adrian Berry
skygodley 18/Feb/99 AltLd
with Silvia Fitzpatrick
Hidden 28/Dec/97 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Nov/97 AltLd
ukb & bmc shark 09/Jan/97 Lead
with Chief
Stoney Boy ?/Jan/97 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Great route.

with Dave Hassall
Hidden ??/1997 2nd
D Tempest 23/Nov/96 AltLd

Rick did the 6c+ pitch

with Rick
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1980 -
24 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set