UKC

198m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent route which is of the same calibre as Costa Blanca, or even better, some say. It follows a very steep and direct line up the centre of the face to reach a fine position high on the wall. A wire or two may be needed for the section shared with Diedro UBSA which also contains some loose rock.
1) & 2) 4+, 45m. As for Diedro UBSA.
3) 5+, 15m. Continue up the corner, but step right and climb up as far as a sloping ledge. Belay at the right-hand end of this.
4) 6b, 28m. Climb straight up the vertical rubble on some weird and wonderful holds (scary) and then smoother rock above.
5) 6b, 30m. Another long pitch leads left, then back right and up an area of flowstone. Juggy climbing reaches a crack which leads to a belay shared with Gómez-Cano.
6) 6c, 20m. Up a short, steep Arete or the groove to the left.
7) 6a, 30m. Move left awkwardly, then climb the groove and crack on the left to a good stance (strenuous).
8) 7a, 30m. Climb the overhanging face above via the crack on the right with one hard move (or aid). Continue on steep rock via a crack then swing left to a niche. Exit right then climb a groove and slab. Scramble up easy rock to the summit. © Rockfax

FA. Salvador Guerola, Emilio Perales, Juan Terradez, Jaime Arviza 1991.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50

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User Date Notes
Helen Gibson Hoey 26 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Few days after storm Gloria, 1st 6b pitch lovely and dry, next 6b was soaking, other pitches wet in places. Thought the 6a pitch was harder than the lower 6b pitches!
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βeta: Few days after storm Gloria, 1st 6b pitch lovely and dry, next 6b was soaking, other pitches wet in places. Thought the 6a pitch was harder than the lower 6b pitches!
Adam Jaroš 5 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The crux pitch is easily aidable - if need be. I would say the route is "6b oblig.".
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βeta: The crux pitch is easily aidable - if need be. I would say the route is "6b oblig.".
Dean Howard 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The best multi-pitch sport route i've done!
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βeta: The best multi-pitch sport route i've done!
kevin stephens 8 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Better than Costa Blanca, esp in the lower pitches. Bolts so close together on the "7a" pitch that you could hand over hand up the quick draws. Dont blow the R to L travers higher up by taking a line too high; drop down after clipping the bolt, then go L
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Better than Costa Blanca, esp in the lower pitches. Bolts so close together on the "7a" pitch that you could hand over hand up the quick draws. Dont blow the R to L travers higher up by taking a line too high; drop down after clipping the bolt, then go L

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mar's

Grade: 7a ***
(Ambolo)

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