A long route with a fine first pitch but overshadowed by its neighbours above that. The upper sections have little quality fixed gear and there is much loose rock. Tack a full rack and prepare for an adventure! Start below the red flowstone wall.
1) 6b, 30m. Follow the tatty gear up the steep wall to a lower-off where the angle changes.
2) 6a/A1, 30m. Move up to reach a big flake then climb up this. At its top reach a bolt ladder. Aid up this to a stance about 5m above.
3) 6a, 45m. Make a diagonal traverse up right to a groove and followed this to the base of the first big cave on Gómez-Cano.
4) 4, 45m. Pitch 4 of Gómez-Cano but continue to the ledges above and move right through an arch to a bolt belays.
5) 5+, 40m. Follow either of two ribs above to a slab which leads up leftwards to a stance. The tempting bolts to the right of this pitch are on Linea-Magica.
6) 5+, 35m. Climb the chimney above then make hard moves out right. Climb the crack above and belay in a corner. 7) 4, 30m. The crack and arete on the right to easier ground. 8) 3, 30m. Easy ground leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Manfred (solo) 1970s 1975
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