UKC

265m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Another long modern route which gives superb climbing and positions. A small rack is needed for the section shared with Gómez-Cano. Start just left of Gómez-Cano.
1) 6b, 30m. Climb the bolt line to join Gómez-Cano. It is possible to continue in one 45m pitch to the next stance.
2) & 3) 7b+ or A0/5+, 55m. As for Gómez-Cano.
4) 6b, 40m. Climb straight up a corner then through the huge roof of the cave - exciting on either end. Belay on the ledge.
5) 6a, 40m. Traverse around a rib to a bolt ladder in the next bay (possible belay). Move up left through a bulge, then right to a groove. Climb this, then escape right at a thread on the Arete.
6) 6c+, 35m. Climb up a wall to reach a steep section then pull through this (hard) to easier ground.
7) 5, 40m. Scrambling remains. © Rockfax

FA. Jaime Arviza, Esteban Clemente 1991


ClimberDateStyle
George_Surf 20/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1+2/4/5/6. It’s 6b/5+/6a/6b/6a/6c+/5. Guide says fully bolted but the easier climbing from p4 onwards is not. P1 is sustained with a pumpy wall, it’s ok running it with p2, I placed a couple of mid/large wires just after the belay where it’s a bit runout. Rachel led the aid pitch and we both found this much easier the 2nd time round; clip draws in to the bolts and clip tails/foot loops in to the draws, small steps are better than big ones! P4 is absolutely wild up the overhanging groove out of the cave, no mega moves but the exposure is level 10. About half way up the bolts start going rusty. Not the best, not the worst. p5, where it all started going wrong; the route description/line isn’t obvious, then rachel came across a snake (Montpelier viper?) in a hole. Minor meltdown. I continued the pitch from the stance round the corner. The pitch follows the rib up the “bolt ladder” which is probably 3 or 4 bolts through a bulge leftwards (crux). Above, there’s nothing, I found a peg and traversed right for 6m, another bolt appears in the holey/flakey groove above. Climb this and in another 8m there’s a poor thread. Continue 8m up and then right to an old looking stance of 3 bolts above a big spiky flake. Bold and feels e2 5a with its fair share of suspect and friable rock. Shame really, this pitch ruined the route a bit for us. P7 I climbed the wall 6m solo to a big ledge below the overlap, there’s a bolt and a couple of old old pegs. The crux isn’t too hard, a few thin layback/finger lock moves through the overlap, another bolt or 2 and then there’s a 10m runout on easier but loose ground to the belay. The final “scramble” 5 pitch is about 35m and there are no bolts above the rings which are 6m above the belay. It’s again blocky and dodgy, so no bolts at all isn’t good. Overall 2 stars. If it had been fully bolted it would be 3 despite the friable rock on pitches 5-7. Below the climbing is awesome, and the crux moves are also good. 6.5hrs car to car

rachelpearce01 20/Dec/17 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Dec/08 AltLd
lost.arrow 29/Dec/03 AltLd
clark alston ?/Mar/99 Lead O/S

Only the first 6b pitch.

with Steven Martin
Hidden 02/Jan/98 AltLd O/S
sharpie ?/Jan/98 Lead O/S
with John Harwood
Hidden 28/Dec/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Dec/97 Lead
Hidden 20/Dec/97 Lead
Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set