Rockfax Description
Another long modern route which gives superb climbing and positions. A small rack is needed for the section shared with Gómez-Cano. Start just left of Gómez-Cano.1) 6b, 30m. Climb the bolt line to join Gómez-Cano. It is possible to continue in one 45m pitch to the next stance.2) & 3) 7b+ or A0/5+, 55m. As for Gómez-Cano.4) 6b, 40m. Climb straight up a corner then through the huge roof of the cave - exciting on either end. Belay on the ledge.5) 6a, 40m. Traverse around a rib to a bolt ladder in the next bay (possible belay). Move up left through a bulge, then right to a groove. Climb this, then escape right at a thread on the Arete.6) 6c+, 35m. Climb up a wall to reach a steep section then pull through this (hard) to easier ground.7) 5, 40m. Scrambling remains. © Rockfax
FA. Jaime Arviza, Esteban Clemente 1991.
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Grade: 6c+ ***
(Castellet de Calp)