Rockfax Description
Short and fierce. Gain the leftward-slanting crack and then a small quartz ledge on the right. This provides a launch pad for the crux, and after Left Wall it is one of the most fallen off routes in the Pass. Better holds and easier climbing quickly appear in the groove. Belay on the Brant turret. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
FlavioL1989 23/Jul Lead O/S
jezb1 13/Jul Lead

Had followed this before, up and down the start a few times before committing, get a good rest before the crux then high feet get you good holds. Crux is very well protected.

Hidden 24/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun 2nd rpt
Droyd 03/Jun Lead O/S

Went up and down a few times at the beginning before finally committing, getting a good nut in, and grabbing the good holds. Getting an accidental heel-toe cam really helped with the crux - very pleased to do this clean (although the gear at the crux is superbly reassuring)

with Jimmy
td72 28/May 2nd O/S

brian had some serious air time on this one! Didn't think it was the best route in the world. didnt use the rubbish right hand sidepull pinch instead opting to go straight up with the right hand to the goodish hold

bryan61 28/May Lead dog

4 falls before I got this, just plain bloody hard, I've done easier e3's

with Tom D
pie_eater_pete 24/May Lead O/S
steven_daniels99 14/May 2nd
Hidden 08/May Lead rpt
Dave Lyon 07/May Lead
with Brian Seery
shed_hed 04/May 2nd rpt

In Scarpa trainers because I forgot my stickies. Crux moves were tenuous!

tprebs 04/May Lead O/S

misjudged where the crux was and it took me by surprise

with Darren
Sophie Nunn 08/Apr Lead O/S
with Mike R
deacondeacon 08/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden 25/Oct/16 Lead O/S
tebs 25/Oct/16 2nd
with Aidan
JRJones 15/Aug/16 2nd dog

One fall. disappointing, got it clean second go

Tom McCabe 15/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Rollo 14/Aug/16 2nd

Just hung on for the clean second

mikeyjbs 14/Aug/16 Lead dog
with Rollo
scottcoates 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 12/Aug/16 2nd O/S
DaveThexton 12/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with josh, Freja
Hidden 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S
shed_hed 18/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Had forgotten I seconded this. Tricky but well protected moves. Start was sopping wet in the crack but was OK. Seriously hot on the rock, took a while to commit to the crux.

UncleMephisto 18/Jul/16 Lead dog

Nails!

wynaptomos 24/Jun/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Jun/16 Lead rpt
benw681 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Jamie
James Beaumont 11/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Max
max_dickens 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Pretty happy with this. Pretty pumped holding the ledge for ages building a nest. Crux was fine in the end

with Bow
Gus 10/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Chunky!!

Pete Rigby 31/May/16 Lead O/S
with Jim Tan, Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 31/May/16 2nd
with Jim Tan, Peter Rigby
anguskille 24/May/16 Lead O/S
with Rich Gentry
tim20 23/May/16 2nd
Andrew Barker 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Chris M
Nik Jennings 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Rachel
Rachel S 15/May/16 2nd
with Nik
Hidden 15/May/16 2nd dog
jsmcfarland 14/May/16 Lead dog

The description is setting you up for a sandbag. The quartz ledge proved totally useless for doing the baffling crux move, which was actually completely easy as soon as I decided not to use it. Will come back and do it clean at some point. Sigh.

with Tim
tim.fairhall 14/May/16 2nd O/S
with Sachi
Shauna ?/May/16 2nd
with Jules
richiebongo 20/Apr/16 Lead β

Phil climbed first but came off on the crux so I went up using his runners and only just stayed on.

with Phil Rossiter
jezb1 19/Mar/16 2nd

Cheeky!

Hidden ??/2016 -
Nifec14 ??/2016 -
benkelsey 03/Oct/15 2nd rpt

Had done years ago. Still hard.

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S

pretty pumpy almost fell trying to reverse to the rest, fine once you commit tho

Jono_LS16 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Justin T 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Quality improvisation, quality route.

with Nancy
NancyJones 09/Sep/15 2nd dog
sev 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/15 Lead
James Oakes 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 15/Jul/15 Lead
with KP
Hidden 29/Jun/15 Lead dog
Sam Simpson 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Hughes
Andy Peak 1 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Last lead of the weekend arms burning:)

Misha 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Short and sharp! Hard moves or at least they felt damn hard after a full weekend of climbing...

with Andy
mynyddresident 26/May/15 -
wolf.leeb 26/May/15 Lead rpt
with nic
Hidden 16/May/15 AltLd
guy757 24/Apr/15 -
JamesWilliams 23/Apr/15 Lead G/U

Tried a couple of attempts last year with adam but could get into the corner crack. Got straight up to the corner today and pumped out and fell because I couldn't sort my feet. Pulled the ropes and had another go and found a good jam with my left hand to allow me to move my feet, commence bridging between my right foot and my head to the thank go jugs!

climberchristy 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Really good. Cruxy but difficulties short lived .

with bencole
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
mynyddresident 27/Sep/14 Lead
with KP
Hidden 19/Sep/14 Lead O/S
alice fuller 12/Sep/14 2nd dog

blinking nails crux.

Hidden 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
erbridger 03/Sep/14 2nd

Second to Tom. Great climb with a tough crux but well worth the effort.

adamre12 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Soaking wet on the crux! Fought up from the quartz ledge making a lot of noise. Easy at the top. Onsight!

Hidden 12/Aug/14 TR
Hidden 31/Jul/14 Lead dog
Ed morris 29/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Jerry Handren
alexm198 27/Jul/14 2nd
Matt Harle 27/Jul/14 -
Rachel Slater 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Borg
Hannes B 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

found this hard

with wil
drysori 25/Jul/14 Lead
Adam_42 21/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Sat on a cam which popped. Bad fall and plenty of rope burn. Lots of lessons to learn from this one. Don't fancy doing something like that again.

alexjz 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, climbed really well

with Gwen
Hidden 12/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 2nd dog
Hidden 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
mynyddresident ?/Jul/14 -
with KP
spidermonkey09 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

One move wonder, but nice climbing.

Kevster 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Nibs
Jack93 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Felt quite easy for the grade but sadly I've been informed it just gets easier if you're really tall

Steve Crowe 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden 18/Jun/14 Lead G/U
cat22 12/Jun/14 2nd
with Mike
Luxulyan 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead dog
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
JulesV 18/May/14 Lead rpt
Mike_Hayes 18/May/14 Lead

On Chris' gear - Stood on own quick draw instead of hold!

wi11 18/May/14 TR rpt

On a grigri...not as hard as I remembered

with Jack L, Anna G
Hidden 04/May/14 TR
Dave Almond 02/May/14 Lead dog

Cold damp and white fingers . No excuse really just need to try harder

Hidden ?/May/14 -
Roo123 30/Apr/14 2nd dog
HAJ Francis ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 2nd O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 2nd
with Terry
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
tim newton 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with gwen lancashire
BenNorman 01/Sep/13 Lead

Fell off!! foot slip but good to take a fall. Lead on si's gear after.

brices 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
smallerrich 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Easy when you go the right way

metal arms 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Michael Allday 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 03/Aug/13 Lead

Rested on gear :-(

spidey 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with mat lamb
Mattlamb90 21/Jul/13 2nd β
with Ryan
wi11 13/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Brian
Hidden 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
wolf.leeb 10/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Huw
Dan Vaj 07/Jun/13 TR dog

Climber to crux and fell. Finished it.

with Matthew stygall
Tubs 31/May/13 Lead
with AJM
wi11 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Harder than it looks!

with Gwen L
Chris Wright 25/May/13 Lead
wolf.leeb 20/May/13 2nd rpt
with hosey
ksjs 07/May/13 Lead rpt
with Rhys
Tim Rodgers 04/May/13 TR
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 04/May/13 2nd O/S
with Si
dswansonlow 01/May/13 Lead O/S
shed_hed 01/May/13 2nd O/S
Dan724 26/Feb/13 2nd rpt
BenRyle 26/Feb/13 Lead RP

Uber pumped

with Dan
Alex.M-M. 22/Sep/12 Lead dog
with chris ripper
Ed Babs 09/Sep/12 2nd β

Hard work for a few moves.

Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Cardi 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Dan
Dan724 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Jen Crook 23/Aug/12 2nd dog
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead dog
guy757 14/Aug/12 -
with Vic
mikeshewring 06/Jun/12 Lead β
Richard Kemble 29/May/12 2nd O/S
with Lewis G
wynaptomos 24/May/12 2nd dog
Ollie B 03/May/12 Lead O/S

Attempted the pump by accident previously, much easier than that!

with L.Fleming
Stone Muppet 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
ksjs 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Mar/12 2nd
PaulTanton 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
sam820 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tom Livingstone 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
owain86 01/Oct/11 Lead β

On Tom's Gear

Scraggadoo 23/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/11 2nd
gregoritos 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S

halla did brant direct afterwards

with Halla
dannyboy83 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd
Ally Smith 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
mr mills 29/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with sion
Hidden 11/Jun/11 TR
Lenny 04/Jun/11 TR dog
with Les
Pippa 29/Apr/11 Lead
with Jon
Jim Tan 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
benkelsey 21/Apr/11 2nd dog

took one rest trying to power through crux. got wrong handed and still suffering from left wall syndrome the day before.

wolf.leeb 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with helen, nic
Hidden 21/Apr/11 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
barni 29/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Liam FLeming 29/Mar/11 Lead β

I'm Hard

with barni
Danjones 29/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with dan ely
dan ely 29/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Rory Shaw 22/Mar/11 Lead rpt
thetradlad 19/Mar/11 2nd dog

a Pumpy little bastard

Harry Thorpe 19/Mar/11 Lead dog

Fell off on the crux, pumpy!

Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
farmus21 20/Oct/10 2nd

Another fight, great line with tough crux

with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S

off balance crux.

with james G
Hidden 19/Aug/10 Lead dnf
dave o 16/Aug/10 Lead

the crack on the crux was damp and i slipped out of it, got it from the ground next go

with Julia H
dan gibson 16/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/10 TR dog
Chriswallis2 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
gd303uk 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf
with John Rogers
John Lewis 30/May/10 2nd
with Ewan
richardr 19/May/10 Lead O/S
ksjs 17/May/10 Lead rpt
with jo
dan ely 17/May/10 2nd dog

did same day before with ed. rested at crux both times.

with rich
dan ely 17/May/10 2nd dog

did same day before with ed. rested at crux both times.

with rich
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead β
Laurence Everitt 15/May/10 2nd O/S
Mark D 15/May/10 Lead dog
with Tommy B, Laurence Everitt
Rob Grant 15/May/10 Lead
with sam ring
Hidden 11/May/10 Lead
Sam W 02/May/10 Lead
with Sam Ring
JPGR 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with Yvette
Bennykr 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S

cool, a wee bit pumpy!!! but shortlived

Hidden 16/Apr/10 Lead dog
eddy-on-the-rocks 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead dog
Tomprusk 14/Mar/10 Lead dog

Skin ripping sensation with great moves and a few falls.

with Alex
Hidden 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/10 Lead
Dave Rumney 07/Mar/10 Lead dog
with Tanya Milner
hervenuttall ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 12/Feb/10 Lead
centurion05 ??/2010 -
Speeddemonsi ??/2010 Lead O/S
mr mills ??/2010 -
with paul simkiss
robin heath ??/2010 2nd O/S
with Tom Wild
brian watson 27/Sep/09 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd
Carly 20/Jul/09 2nd
with Richard
Hidden 20/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Strong John
DDDD 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Mick Haffner
Hidden 23/Jun/09 2nd rpt
geoff b 23/Jun/09 Lead
davidwright 12/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Ri ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Anja Jones
barni 03/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Glyn
DavidEvans ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
kingholmesy ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Brian
Mark Stevenson 27/Jul/08 2nd rpt
with Tom Odling
Hidden 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead
Rich Kirby 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ash
Guy Wilson 07/Jun/08 Lead β
with Steve Long
Owain Llewelyn 03/Jun/08 Lead
with Phil
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
climbergg 30/May/08 2nd
Tim M 30/May/08 Lead
with Emma
kieranrex 10/May/08 Lead
with Sophie Wilmes
Hidden 09/May/08 2nd O/S
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
barni 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
ksjs 01/Jun/07 Lead rpt

lovely bouldery single pitch action

Richard Horn 26/May/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead dog
Morgan Woods 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S

pumpy but basically a one move wonder!

with Gareth
Dan 85 24/Mar/07 Lead RP
with Tim
tumbling wizard ?/Mar/07 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2007 Lead
zero six ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/06 Lead dog
Alex Mason 26/Jul/06 Lead O/S

brilliant tough and technical sequence.

Shaw Brown 08/Jul/06 Lead

One rest on gear :(

with Chris King
Hidden 12/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Chubbard 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with C Godfrey
IOAN D 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Mills
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
rob.grafton ??/2006 AltLd
with Bruce
Hidden ??/2006 -
mattyork2 03/Aug/05 2nd dog
with Jim
Mark Stevenson 18/Jun/05 Lead rpt
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
nicholas Barrowclough 18/Jun/04 Lead
Lizard ?/May/04 2nd
with Andrey K
Hidden 28/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 15/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Dave Marsh
jgordon75 01/Jun/02 Lead O/S

Led crux pitch

Ian Jones ??/2002 Lead β

Failed on this the day I first led the Dervish in 1983.

with Karen Ghiselli
jfletcher 17/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Charlotte Fletcher
Hammy 07/Jun/00 2nd
with Jim Evans
big ?/Jun/00 Lead
Hidden 14/May/00 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 05/May/00 Lead O/S
with Duncan Spencer
Ed Booth ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/98 Lead O/S
WB 06/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Ciaran
craig h 22/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
The Reaper 22/Mar/97 2nd O/S
Bruce Kerr 02/Jul/96 Lead
with Perric Crellin
michael burrows 20/Jun/96 2nd
with mark ryan
crossleysm ??/1996 2nd
Roget 07/May/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Cowflinger ?/May/95 Solo O/S
Bullybones ??/1995 -
shoulders 18/Sep/94 Lead
with hywel, dai
John Southworth 07/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Neil R 23/Jul/94 2nd
with Richard W
chris sm 18/Jun/94 Lead dog
Marti999 ??/1994 Lead
Stoney Boy 04/Sep/93 2nd O/S
with Bob Marks
D Tempest 01/Aug/93 2nd O/S
with Rick
Hidden 21/Jun/93 2nd
uphillnow 29/Apr/93 2nd

had climbed previously

with Graeme Smith, Mark Gray
Hidden 16/Sep/92 TR
Hidden 27/May/92 TR
Hidden 21/Aug/91 2nd
Hidden 26/Jul/91 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/91 Lead
sadams 01/Feb/91 Lead
with Kev Mellieu
Nigel Coe ??/1991 -
Hidden ??/1991 -
Hidden 25/Jul/90 2nd
Neil R 05/May/90 Lead dnf
with Ian
whispering nic ?/May/90 Lead
Hidden 31/Mar/90 2nd O/S
michael burrows 22/Jul/89 Lead O/S
with pete roberts
Hidden 12/Jul/89 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/89 Lead
Hidden 27/May/89 TR
Hidden 20/May/89 Lead dnf
steve taylor ?/May/89 Lead
with mark grover
phardman 10/Sep/88 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 13/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
Hidden 07/Nov/87 TR
Hidden 08/Sep/87 2nd
Dave Musgrove 15/Aug/87 Lead O/S
with Lyn
wynaptomos ?/Jun/87 Lead rpt
Eduardo Martinez 24/May/87 Lead O/S
Nick Biven 01/May/87 Lead
Backinthegame ?/Jul/86 Lead O/S
with Hugh Watkins
nigehughes ?/May/86 Lead
with Karl Greenwood
GordonHart ?/Jul/85 2nd β
Robmwatt ??/1985 -
with Gaz Morgan
jon ?/Jun/84 Lead
with H
keefe 21/Apr/84 -
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd
Hidden 01/Sep/83 Lead
philhilo 13/Aug/83 Lead O/S
with M Cave
Ivan Machin 21/Aug/82 -
with Jon Mellor
Hidden 18/Apr/81 2nd
Hammy 27/Apr/80 Lead
with Rob Lawson
daviesxxx ??/1980 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 -
Mike Owen 10/Apr/77 Lead O/S
with Pete Craig
Steve Lewis 06/Aug/76 Lead O/S
with sharpie
greenbuoy ?/Jul/70 2nd

Found it very strenuous

with Terry Taylor
Derek Abbott 23/Sep/54 AltLd RP

First Ascent with Mike Harvey. A bit of a struggle. Delighted to see that it has maintained its grade and is popular too.

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Voting
High E3
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Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 62
High 6a
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Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 60
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set