34m.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb with a butch crux that feels a long way off the ground. Climb the long groove to the bulges then power left through these on a series of pockets (old tat) to a tough pull into the groove. Finish direct - sensible, or illogical and guaranteed to increase rope-drag exit rightwards. © Rockfax

FFA. Keith Myhill 1969. FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt 1958

Ticklists

Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Definitive *** Peak Lime

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UserDateNotes
debsb 23 Aug Show βeta
βeta: New maillon but rope at belay in very poor condition and needs to be removed, 22/08/19.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: New maillon but rope at belay in very poor condition and needs to be removed, 22/08/19.
Katya 22 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A great route. Really quite qirty at present, it needs more climbers and less spiders. Don't remember a 'series of unhelpful pockets', just big holds and manky tats.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great route. Really quite qirty at present, it needs more climbers and less spiders. Don't remember a 'series of unhelpful pockets', just big holds and manky tats.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
debsb 22 Aug 2nd O/S
with Glenda Huxter
with Glenda Huxter
Gympaul 18 May 2nd
with Dale
with Dale
Edale 18 May Lead
with gympaul
with gympaul
Alex@home 5 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with The Doctor
with The Doctor
Bernie L 31 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Henry Tyce
with Henry Tyce
eduardo 15 Jul, 2018 2nd dog Read the crux sequence badly
Read the crux sequence badly
fuzzysheep01 15 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with eduardo
with eduardo
Brannock 8 Jul, 2018 Lead Beefy
Beefy
Wayne S 8 Jul, 2018 2nd
Mike505 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S I believe the correct guidebook expression would be 'full value at the grade'. The first bit of old tat can and probably should be backed up, the second piece looked ok. But the roof crack also takes big cams and nuts. I just about burnt out trying to suss the crux but managed to recover just enough on a hand jam (not a position to hang around in for long). I just managed to pull through on screaming forearms and firgers that were opening up on every hold, once through the crux I could barely recover from the pump and I was hardly even using my hands at this point, think I'll get a proper warm up done in future. Great route!
I believe the correct guidebook expression would be 'full value at the grade'. The first bit of old tat can and probably should be backed up, the second piece looked ok. But the roof crack also takes big cams and nuts. I just about burnt out trying to suss the crux but managed to recover just enough on a hand jam (not a position to hang around in for long). I just managed to pull through on screaming forearms and firgers that were opening up on every hold, once through the crux I could barely recover from the pump and I was hardly even using my hands at this point, think I'll get a proper warm up done in future. Great route!
Tom Redwood 24 Jun, 2018 2nd dog What a beast! Well done Michael for leading it, bit of a test piece (sandbag), but I won't vote on grade until lead, 3* though. Found some footwork at the crux and super annoyed that as I started to pump out I didn't lunge for what turned out to be a jug(ish) and the end of the difficulties. Think I'm not too far off the ability to lead (as its so thuggy) but a fair way off the commitment level. FYI, don't rely on the first thread!!! (unless its been replaced)
with Mike505
What a beast! Well done Michael for leading it, bit of a test piece (sandbag), but I won't vote on grade until lead, 3* though. Found some footwork at the crux and super annoyed that as I started to pump out I didn't lunge for what turned out to be a jug(ish) and the end of the difficulties. Think I'm not too far off the ability to lead (as its so thuggy) but a fair way off the commitment level. FYI, don't rely on the first thread!!! (unless its been replaced)
with Mike505
Graeme Hammond 19 Jul, 2017 Lead G/U So good, failed to finish the day before after pumping/burning out (felt ill when i got down it was such and effort to even walk to the top of the crag to get the gear back) so much I couldn't even frig up the lip crux. (So style somewhere between ground up and RP) Much easier today. 3*s every day of the week!
So good, failed to finish the day before after pumping/burning out (felt ill when i got down it was such and effort to even walk to the top of the crag to get the gear back) so much I couldn't even frig up the lip crux. (So style somewhere between ground up and RP) Much easier today. 3*s every day of the week!
Hidden 3 Jun, 2017 -
Richard Kendrick 7 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Derek
with Derek
jon_gill1 13 May, 2015 Lead dog a wild climb with in situ gear to be avoided mostly! I rested at the end of the overhangs after trying to get into the groove and failing to commit on burnt arms! A fantastic route all the same!
with chris Lyness
a wild climb with in situ gear to be avoided mostly! I rested at the end of the overhangs after trying to get into the groove and failing to commit on burnt arms! A fantastic route all the same!
with chris Lyness
Hidden 23 Jul, 2014 2nd
Andy Peak 1 3 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt Beyond brilliant positions other e2 s don't reach
with rob stokes, phill ukc
Beyond brilliant positions other e2 s don't reach
with rob stokes, phill ukc
bigdrew 19 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 17 Jun, 2014 Lead Awesome climbing shame it didnt go clean
Awesome climbing shame it didnt go clean
Paul Hy 17 Jun, 2014 2nd dnf hard! one day though!
hard! one day though!
Mr Sparkle 11 Jul, 2013 2nd
Mike_Hayes 11 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Simon Davis ?Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Tim P
with Tim P
masa-alpin 30 May, 2013 Lead dog There was no hand hold, where I expected, and I couldn't reverse the move and eventually fell off, ripping off the load-limiting sling fully. Hard! I topped out after a couple of rests, with a completely different sequence of moves. My second did not finish the route, so I abbed off to clean.
with Lee P
There was no hand hold, where I expected, and I couldn't reverse the move and eventually fell off, ripping off the load-limiting sling fully. Hard! I topped out after a couple of rests, with a completely different sequence of moves. My second did not finish the route, so I abbed off to clean.
with Lee P
ejected ??, 2013 -
Neil McA 25 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with martin cooper
with martin cooper
Hidden 5 Aug, 2012 Lead rpt
Martin Cooper 24 Jul, 2012 2nd dog In the gloom
with Neil
In the gloom
with Neil
khawk 2 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with datoon
with datoon
Martin Haworth 1 Oct, 2011 Lead dog
with Ian Holtby
with Ian Holtby
belay bunny turned bad 30 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Al Doig
with Al Doig
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 2nd
Andrew Barker 28 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Brilliant - tough and wild for the grade.
Brilliant - tough and wild for the grade.
catblack 28 Jul, 2011 2nd β Very intimitating but really good, thought the last tough move was very tough!
Very intimitating but really good, thought the last tough move was very tough!
Dave Bond 16 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with SiW
with SiW
cem 15 May, 2011 2nd dog 1 rest
1 rest
drcorbasisgod 15 May, 2011 Lead 1 rest
with cem
1 rest
with cem
Phill Mitch 25 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S we were looking for a route here without polish!Mmmm I wonder why.very butch climbing!
we were looking for a route here without polish!Mmmm I wonder why.very butch climbing!
steveb2006 14 Apr, 2010 Lead A good struggle
with Dave Taylor
A good struggle
with Dave Taylor
Seymore Butt ??, 2010 -
Hidden 2 Oct, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 2 Oct, 2009 Lead dog
Matt Fry 29 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S By headtorch. Mostly fantastic, but with a slightly grotty finish. Great terrain for the grade.
with thrutch
By headtorch. Mostly fantastic, but with a slightly grotty finish. Great terrain for the grade.
with thrutch
thrutch 29 Sep, 2009 2nd
Misha 22 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
steveb2006 2 Jun, 2007 2nd
with Roland Smith
with Roland Smith
Hidden 24 Mar, 2007 Lead dog
steveb2006 16 Aug, 2006 Lead dog A fight - 1 rest below final groove
with Paul Ramsden
A fight - 1 rest below final groove
with Paul Ramsden
Hidden 6 Jul, 2006 Lead
Boy ??, 2006 -
Hidden 10 Oct, 2005 Lead dog
nickdonohue ?Jun, 2003 Lead
steveb2006 12 Apr, 2003 Lead Feel much improved from 8th
with Pete Carter
Feel much improved from 8th
with Pete Carter
Andy Edgar ??, 2000 -
nickdonohue 4 Oct, 1997 2nd very strenous; rested at end of overhang
with Derek Ashworth
very strenous; rested at end of overhang
with Derek Ashworth
Roget 28 Jul, 1996 Lead rpt
with jon
with jon
Hidden 6 Jul, 1995 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 1994 Lead O/S
steveb2006 19 Mar, 1993 Lead Led after Mike failed on Diseased Meat
Led after Mike failed on Diseased Meat
MikePycroft 19 Mar, 1993 2nd
nickcanute ??, 1993 Lead
Roget 20 Sep, 1992 2nd O/S
with baccy
with baccy
uphillnow ?Sep, 1992 2nd
with Mark Gray
with Mark Gray
g1m147 24 Aug, 1991 Lead O/S
with Mick.
with Mick.
jcw 9 Jun, 1991 - It was a wet showery day and I had to cheat on this one. Remarkable to have got any climbing that day
with Martin Harris
It was a wet showery day and I had to cheat on this one. Remarkable to have got any climbing that day
with Martin Harris
Hidden 8 May, 1990 Lead rpt
ajtay ??, 1990 -
with Various
with Various
Hidden 17 Jul, 1988 Lead O/S
steveb2006 30 Apr, 1987 Lead
with Gez Morgan
with Gez Morgan
steveb2006 27 Apr, 1987 2nd Failed to lead for 2nd time. Yorkie leads with 1 rest
with Mervyn Dudley
Failed to lead for 2nd time. Yorkie leads with 1 rest
with Mervyn Dudley
Hidden ??, 1987 Lead
keefe 23 Nov, 1985 -
sadams 29 Jun, 1985 Lead
with Kevin Edwards
with Kevin Edwards
Rick51 21 Oct, 1984 2nd
andybirtwistle 20 Oct, 1984 2nd
with Mike Arnold
with Mike Arnold
steveb2006 29 Aug, 1984 Lead dog
with Gary Burton
with Gary Burton
charlesmfrench 15 Apr, 1984 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 8 Nov, 1980 Lead
with Bill McKee
with Bill McKee
Hidden ?Jun, 1980 2nd
Andy Nicholson ?Jul, 1978 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 1976 Lead
mikej 19 Aug, 1973 2nd
with Geoff Williams
with Geoff Williams
clanger ??, 1972 -
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 16
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set