Rockfax Description
A cruxy route with interesting moves on good rock. Start just right of a small spike, about 4 metres left of the more obvious ramp-line of Kaisergebirge Wall. Follow a shallow groove past a spike to reach Kaisergebirge Wall. Climb this up and left to a sloping ledge by a thin vertical crack. Arrange gear in the crack and move up and left to where a cruxy traverse rightwards gains the top of the crack and a hidden hold. Follow the easier ramp/flake-line leading diagonally up and right to a ledge and belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A short but interesting wall. Start at a small spike left of Kaisergerbirge Wall.
Climb the shallow groove right of the spike to join the Kaisergebirge Wall traverse. From the sloping platform climb up bearing slightly left until a difficult move right to a sharp hidden hold enables the obvious traverse line to be followed up right to easy ground. Ascend to Lords. (p 89 Llanberis Climber's Club guide 2009)

H I Banner, J O'Neil, R Beesly 02/Aug/1958

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

Hidden 01/Sep/17 2nd rpt
erkershaw 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Jonathan Richardson 28/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Rob Rocket 24/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Adam Ellwood
Flavio 23/Jul/17 Lead O/S
vanderz 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with PenJD
Ewan Russell 07/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Callum Smith 05/Jul/17 Lead O/S

E1 (?) or am i just bad at cracks...

with Lucy
jon_gill1 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Chris P, john ripley
ripper 02/Jul/17 2nd
shed_hed 13/Jun/17 2nd rpt
tprebs 13/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Darren
Hidden 03/Jun/17 2nd
esuddes 03/Jun/17 Lead
with Hastie
pie_eater_pete 24/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/17 Lead rpt
rachelpearce01 18/May/17 2nd O/S
George_Surf 18/May/17 Lead O/S

hard crux up the groove to the traverse, didnt like all the perched flakes above

LDudill 10/May/17 2nd O/S
with Alex z
alexjz 10/May/17 Lead O/S

Took a while to work through the crux. Slowly getting the head back into trad

with Luke Dudill
Dave Lyon 07/May/17 Lead
with Brian Seery
Hidden 23/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
UncleMephisto 11/Apr/17 2nd O/S
shed_hed 11/Apr/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
jonleighton 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Emily C 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Jon
scarmichael 02/Oct/16 2nd
with MSD
my 15/Sep/16 2nd

All fine except hard, pumpy crux (crack off the ledge). Had to rest on the rope... boo.

with Kev Avery
Phil4000 05/Sep/16 Lead
with Paul Turner
Hidden 25/Aug/16 2nd
jsmcfarland ?/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Hold start, otherwise thought it was okay. HVS

with Robert
Hidden 18/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Pete Wimbush 18/Jul/16 Lead
with Chris Hindley
Colin Scotchford 18/Jul/16 2nd
JendeHoxar 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Dobby
dobby 200 17/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Jen
Hidden 06/Jul/16 AltLd
wynaptomos 24/Jun/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Charlie Low 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Johanna Wernqvist
Col Kingshott 06/Jun/16 2nd
luke glaister 30/May/16 2nd O/S

Are warm up at 6 in the morning. Felt cold to second on. Top of the grade . Good gear on the crux section.

Helen Boothman 29/May/16 Lead
with Al
Butel 28/May/16 Lead dog
with jezb1
Nik Jennings 15/May/16 2nd
with Rachel
Rachel S 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Nik
khalidq 13/May/16 Lead rpt
Dan Vaj 13/May/16 2nd rpt
with Khalid
Hidden 06/May/16 2nd
robpartridge 05/May/16 2nd
with Helen
tom.e 21/Apr/16 -
with Charlie Everett
Markheighton 20/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Markheighton 20/Apr/16 2nd
jmills94 ?/Apr/16 2nd O/S

its all there but can feel a bit pushy in places. Probably worth low end e1. The crack can feel awkward but you are going for good holds.

with ed
Hidden ?/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 31/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 13/Mar/16 AltLd
adie84 ??/2016 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Nifec14 ??/2016 -
Pimwuh 30/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/15 Lead
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/15 -
Davesmith1981 08/Sep/15 2nd
with Si Lake
Matadoors 31/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S
David Kay 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S
tim newton 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/15 Lead dog
PaulTanton 08/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Kevin Stephens
Sardien 30/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Hard move at the start! The crack crux isn't that bad when you go for it, I took longer than I intended though. The abpoint at the top is starting to show signs of decay (outer of the rope nearly through at the maillon point)

with Marija
James Oakes 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Fragmod 25/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 19/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun/15 -
Teappleby 15/Jun/15 2nd

Didn't really feel like 5b, hard move.

Matthew Ferrier 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S


cem 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Kirill 13/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Hard for the grade.

Hardcore Pat 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
John sealey 07/Jun/15 Lead
with Dave Holland
NickJH 07/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with LiamG
guy757 24/Apr/15 -
JamesWilliams 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S

lovely climbing up the lower groove. the step right is bloody hard don't hang around too long either!

with Becky
tebs 10/Apr/15 2nd
with Phil, Sam
beckyjg 10/Apr/15 2nd
sgl 10/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Phil, Bart
Derek Ryden 09/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Mike Pycroft
Hidden 09/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Apr/15 Lead
jezb1 08/Apr/15 Lead

Rpt. Not sure if it should be E1, but it's not far off. Harder than Kaiserberge

Brannock 06/Apr/15 2nd
Luke Brooks ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
bencole ?/Apr/15 2nd
Stroppy 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Sort of semi-soloed, semi self belayed up this to retrieve ropes (don't ask). Taking faff to new extremes.

Martin Bagshaw 15/Nov/14 2nd O/S
with Luke Green
Andrew Sloan 07/Sep/14 2nd rpt

Climbed this several years ago. Awkward little crux sequence.

with Chris Gooder
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd dog
steveboote 07/Sep/14 Lead

With 'hidden'

Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Dizz 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with David
Hidden 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
rbruce 17/Jun/14 2nd
with Derek Miller
pete johnson 17/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Lun
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/14 2nd
khalidq 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Dan Vaj 03/Jun/14 Lead
with Khalid
wynaptomos 03/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Ash Sayers 29/May/14 Lead O/S
andycash 29/May/14 2nd dog
with Ash
JulesV 18/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
fennerz 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Ed and Adam
Ed Booth 11/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 11/Apr/14 2nd O/S
dswansonlow 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S

One hard section with good gear.

shed_hed 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Cruxy but alright.

Chris Manasseh 15/Mar/14 2nd
with Mike Buddle
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Charlie Jordan
Neil ??/2014 2nd
Si ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
waynekinrade ??/2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
Lenny 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Vun
John sealey 01/Sep/13 Lead
with manxclare, tony ball
manxclare 01/Sep/13 2nd
with jon22
Colin Scotchford 31/Aug/13 Lead
mop449 31/Aug/13 2nd β
redjerry 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Danny
Hidden 29/Aug/13 -
jezb1 27/Aug/13 Lead

Really good pitch of climbing. Good fun and good gear.

metal arms 23/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Yes I'd agree with E1

with Ken McBride
guy757 01/Jul/13 -
WillCass 02/Jun/13 Lead
with Monika
Chris Wright 25/May/13 Lead
Duncan Campbell 02/May/13 2nd

One tricky section.

wi11 19/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Gwen L
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Ollie B 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S

one stiff move.

with T.Ripley
Cardi 26/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Dan
Dan724 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
djones66 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Excellent route. Hard for the grade (I'd give it E1), but well-protected where it needs to be. The crux is a fine but powerful (at this grade) sequence.

with Stve mc D
mattyork2 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Johnny Richard
Alex Winter 22/Jul/12 Lead β

Led after Jake lowered from the crux. Nice and cruxy.

jiles 22/Jul/12 2nd RP
with Alex Winter
Gerallt Owain 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Danjones 21/Jul/12 2nd rpt

Second attempt at lead, and failed on crux again! Ok with rope above! Hard for grade!

with Gerallt
kdalzell 25/Jun/12 2nd
willoates 11/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Iona
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Danjones 29/May/12 2nd rpt

Attempted lead but got too pumped, lowered off and seconded clean. Steep hard crux, but good gear where needed!

with dan ely
Cardi 02/May/12 Lead O/S

Hard crux!

with Matt K
Hidden ?/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead rpt
piersg ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
Noodles 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Felt like hard 5b

with Andy Mcque
Tom Cox 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
sam820 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Marianne
guy757 17/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Ched 01/Aug/11 Lead
Wyn Bach 01/Aug/11 2nd dnf

Fell off about 3m off the ground (it was drizzling), got back and reached crux then didn't commit to move. I'll have to go back and try again.

with Ched
Sophie Nunn 24/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Pete S
wynaptomos 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
CRiddiford 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S

found it scary trusting blindly placed gear when about to do the crux, luckily no need to test it!

with Tom, Mike
thomasadixon 11/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Marti999 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd
chrisallan 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
theotherpetehill 03/Jun/11 2nd
benchwarmer 02/May/11 Lead O/S
with Justina
marcduhig 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew
al123 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with terry
Hidden 26/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Ceridwen 19/Apr/11 2nd dog
with Uber Mike
Sophie Nunn 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Floris
Alex Mason ?/Apr/11 2nd β

felt quite reachy, but tom is tall so maybe its just because i tried to follow hi actions.

with Tom Martin
crag_monster ?/Apr/11 Lead
with Dave Brown
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S
DavidR 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
gforce 14/Aug/10 2nd
with Kath
david morse 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with andy psyche
Cowflinger 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Pete Lewis
Hidden 18/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Chris Wright 12/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Dave Reeve 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Steve Hordley
tigertim 04/Jun/10 2nd
with Tony Payne
Ows ?/Jun/10 Lead
HIGHTOWER 26/May/10 Lead O/S

Great climbing, but due to me useing the wrong gear at the wrong time I ended up pretty run out.

with Dave Gleave
bigbobbyking 15/May/10 Lead O/S

run out bit in the middle freaked me out a bit. Took a couple of looks at the crux before finally committing.

with Ian Faulkner
ian d f 15/May/10 2nd O/S
with Robert King
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 09/May/10 Lead O/S
with Richard Kirby
Rich Kirby 09/May/10 2nd O/S
Sam W 03/May/10 2nd
with Richard
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
Si dH 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Crux felt hard for 5b.

with Robin Macintosh
SR1970 ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Sgt. Vest 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with pete topham
JCB42 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant Route!

with andy cooper
DuckingFesperate ??/2010 Lead
centurion05 ??/2010 -
soph ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
centurion05 ??/2010 -
Speeddemonsi ??/2010 Lead O/S
mr mills ??/2010 -
with paul simkiss
Dave Rumney 18/Oct/09 Lead
with Paul Drew
pauldrew 18/Oct/09 2nd
with Pete Johnson, Kevin Sales
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
brian watson 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd
Carly 20/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Richard
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead
chris sm 30/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Em66 25/May/09 2nd
with Mat
Hidden 24/May/09 2nd
frost 12/May/09 Lead
with D Almond
Dave Almond 12/May/09 AltLd
hervenuttall ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Sam Farnsworth
dan gibson 16/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with chris
Hidden 05/Apr/09 -
DavidEvans ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Adam Ellwood ?/Mar/09 2nd
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Lloyders ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Paddy, Dave L
ritchierich 23/Sep/08 Lead O/S

It's says difficult crux in guide book,AND there not kidding!

Hidden 20/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
nai 13/Jul/08 2nd
with Tim
tlr 13/Jul/08 Lead
with Pom
Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/May/08 Lead O/S
Wilbur 18/May/08 Lead O/S

fairly savage crux. suspected as much prior to setting off given we were at the grochan!

with Caine
Abi Chard 15/May/08 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
barni ??/2008 Lead O/S
Gareth_Thomas 20/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 04/Sep/07 Lead
with Dad/Phil
JPGR 28/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Paul
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd
Richard Horn 26/May/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
RossG123 ??/2007 Lead
zero six ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Two 5b sections with a good rest in between - top section was steeper than it looked - a bit gripping

Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Clucky 10/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 29/May/04 Lead O/S
Ratfeeder 17/May/04 2nd O/S
with Phil
Roget ??/2004 Lead O/S
nicholas Barrowclough 18/Aug/03 Lead
Hidden 16/Mar/03 Lead
Hidden 03/May/99 2nd rpt
Hidden 29/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Julian Wedd ??/1998 -
rob.grafton 12/Apr/97 AltLd
with Bruce
GuyM ??/1996 -
Pete_Frost 14/Jun/94 Lead rpt
Steve Crowe 04/Sep/93 Lead O/S
with KM
uphillnow 30/Apr/93 -
Hidden 31/Mar/93 2nd
Paul Clarke ??/1993 AltLd
with Tim White, Nick Dalzell
Andy Say 14/Aug/92 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/92 2nd
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/91 Lead
Ched ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 19/Jun/90 2nd
steve taylor ?/Jun/90 2nd
with neil willets
Hidden 12/May/90 Lead
michael burrows 07/May/90 Lead rpt
with brian jones
NickJH ?/May/90 2nd
with P Carter
Hidden ??/1990 -
Dave Musgrove 18/Jul/89 2nd

David led.

with Rupert Wyard, David
Hidden 04/Jun/87 2nd
Nick Biven 19/Oct/86 2nd
Martin Bennett 08/Jun/85 -
with Freewheelin' Franklin
Robmwatt ??/1985 -
with Gaz Morgan
Melok ??/1984 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Aug/83 Lead
with John Horn
Neil McA 29/Jul/83 Lead O/S
with Roland
RichardMc 10/Oct/82 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jul/81 Lead
Chris Terrey ?/Jun/81 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Hidden 24/Mar/81 AltLd
Hidden ??/1980 -
Steve Lewis 26/Jul/79 Lead O/S
with John Willy
Hidden 03/Sep/77 Lead
RichardMc 27/Aug/77 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
Mike Owen 07/Jul/77 Lead O/S
with Chris ?
Mark Kemball 17/Apr/76 Lead
with Steve Marriott
Derek Ryden ?/Apr/76 AltLd O/S
with Martin Smith
Ian Jones ??/1976 Lead O/S
with Mike Newton
mikej 10/Sep/75 Lead
with Mike Byles
Bolt Phobia 21/Jun/75 Lead
with Kit Spencer
petemeads ??/1974 Lead
granitbahn ??/1974 AltLd
granitbahn ??/1974 AltLd
Hidden 26/Sep/71 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 09/Aug/70 2nd
with Tim James
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 52
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set