Rockfax Description
III, 220m. Once an undocumented line that only the locals knew about, Vent du Dragon has become something of a classic and is probably the most climbed route on this face since it appeared in Philippe Batoux's beautiful Mont Blanc - The Finest Routes book. Start in the snow bay below an open, low-angled snow/mixed ramp.
Approach - Abseil from the bridge which links the two summits of the Aiguille du Midi, into the Cunningham Couloir below. There is a pair of bolts at the southern end of the bridge. The first abseil is 55m and the bolted anchor you're aiming for is hard to spot until you're almost on it. It is in a corner, directly in the fall line of the abseil off the bridge, 5m above the base of the Cunningham Couloir. If you can't find it there are other anchors around, albeit of varying quality. After this there are 2 x 50m abseils on the right bank of the couloir, a further one from a rock island in the middle of the couloir and a final 30m abseil on the left bank brings you to the foot of the route.
1) 3, 60m. Climb the ramp easily on snowy mixed ground and cross onto the right before coming back left where it widens. Stay on the left and climb a short mixed step to reach a bolt and some slings around a block.
2) 3+, 40m. Continue with slightly more difficulty (but still on steady ground) up a right-leaning gully which leads to a large slab. Carry on rightwards past the foot of the slab and 5m further up to reach a peg and bolt belay.
3) 5, 55m. Climb the stunning icy runnel to the right of the slab to where it is capped by a blocky overhang. Step left and turn the overhang on the left (crux) before continuing up the right-leaning icy runnel above. Climb this for 15m to a snowy col and a bolt/peg belay.
4) 5, 50m. Step right from the belay and make a couple of mixed moves to gain the icy runnel above. Climb this and then make a mantelshelf move left into another runnel. Follow this to it's top and then step left into and through a cave and some tenuous feeling mixed moves to a bolt belay. Don't be tempted out rightwards by the snowy gully near the top of this pitch, it is much harder than it looks...
5) 2, 15m. Move left around the corner and climb the snow slope to reach the Arête des Cosmiques. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Gully line just left of Perroux profit gully on the NW face, starting as for that route. Great climbing with some short tricky mixed sections to M5+

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter, Alpine Dreamz.

monkeymatt 10/Feb/17 -
Hidden 05/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 28/Jun/16 AltLd O/S


with Miles
Petarghh 21/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with nv
Hidden 21/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Pina 20/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Possibly some tough conditions at the cruxes (no reference to compare that to though). Ice is fine and climbs well. Aerated in bits so not always good for screws. Gully for ab in is banked out so hard to find some of the in situ points.

Brian Pollock 20/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Tres bon. Probably VI 6 on the day. Big ice plug on the crux added some spice.

with Pina
scorpia97 19/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Amazing route, even got a knee bar in the cave! Fairly lean with a covering of powder so feeling slightly scottish. Although the squeeze under the rock was blocked out so had to climb around the outside. Longer write up here:

stanleynkk 07/Mar/16 AltLd
Richard Kendrick 07/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Jack Geldard ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/15 AltLd
joelevanschamonix 14/Jun/15 2nd
with Tim Oliver
C Mclean 29/Apr/15 AltLd
with Harry Mcghie
Misha 08/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with walts4
walts4 08/Apr/15 AltLd
with Misha
Hidden 23/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
engelsk_chica 12/Mar/15 2nd β

Climbed with Seb, very cold but great fun!

Hidden 01/Nov/14 AltLd
Hidden 28/Oct/14 AltLd β
James Smith 27/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing weather and great conditions made for a top day out. The squeeze under the roof felt like being back in Scotland!

with geoff, dan
Dan0Me 27/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Excellent condition. Really fun route, made it to the lift with 10mins to spare

with James Smith, Geoff P
Hidden 18/Oct/14 AltLd
Dave Searle 15/Oct/14 AltLd
with Stu Mcaleese
Hidden 07/Oct/14 -
dan-8990 06/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with SW
Steve Wakeford 06/Oct/14 AltLd

Electrocuted my crampons going off the midi bridge, thank god for rubber soles. Crackin day out. Excellent condition. Busy day on the face and rappels, made it back to last bin with 1 min to spare. That's twice in a week.

with Dan Commander, ndraper1
jimmatthews 05/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Good condition. Hilarious moves in and around the roof on 3rd pitch.

Hidden 05/Oct/14 AltLd rpt
James Gordon ?/Oct/14 -
Hidden 26/Sep/14 AltLd dnf
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead
Ewan Russell 03/Jul/14 Lead

Amazing pitches 3 and 4. Hardest thing I have tried to lead. Not done with style. Spent 40 minutes tring to squeeze through squeeze hole. There was ice on crux.

with kelly_426, LDudill, Tom Nichols
kelly_426 ?/Jul/14 AltLd

Lead first two pitches. Great route!!

with Ewan Russel, Tom Nichols, LDudill
simon_D 06/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Good ice and pro on the rock, crux hqd no ice on the slab so we went straight over at about M4+...comedy abseil off the midi bridge!

with Edvin
alpinestar_no1 16/May/14 AltLd O/S

Super nice route, we had great conditions on it. We where delayed on the absail in as a heli was dropping off material on the bridge. But we just made the last bin down after all. Great day out!

with Jakob Fisker
Hidden 01/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
chapmand 01/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
vegarye 30/Mar/14 -
darcan 30/Mar/14 AltLd
with vegarye
Alasdair Fulton 17/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Still enough ice, fairly straightforward so not M5, maybe M4/m4+?

Ross Barnes 17/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
GraMc 19/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Great climbing, mabey about scottish V/VIish. Had to be in work at 4pm, so left john and rory at the top of the route and soloed the rest of the cosmiques as fast as possible. The crux wall of cosmiques was surpisingly difficult in winter

with irish john, rory
Hidden 19/Feb/14 AltLd
niallsash ?/Jan/14 -
QuentinSu ?/Nov/13 -
Graeme Barr 24/Oct/13 2nd
with Rob
Hidden 09/Oct/13 AltLd
Hidden 07/Oct/13 -
danJBA 30/Sep/13 AltLd
with Kayan
Kayan 30/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with danJBA
David Horwood 20/Sep/13 -
Hidden 02/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 02/Jul/13 Lead
with AshwinT
Hidden 09/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
James Thacker ??/2013 -
David Horwood 21/Apr/09 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?/Apr/08 Lead
with David Horwood
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