250m.

Rockfax Description
III, 220m. Once an undocumented line that only the locals knew about, Vent du Dragon has become something of a classic and is probably the most climbed route on this face since it appeared in Philippe Batoux's beautiful Mont Blanc - The Finest Routes book. Start in the snow bay below an open, low-angled snow/mixed ramp.
Approach - Abseil from the bridge which links the two summits of the Aiguille du Midi, into the Cunningham Couloir below. There is a pair of bolts at the southern end of the bridge. The first abseil is 55m and the bolted anchor you're aiming for is hard to spot until you're almost on it. It is in a corner, directly in the fall line of the abseil off the bridge, 5m above the base of the Cunningham Couloir. If you can't find it there are other anchors around, albeit of varying quality. After this there are 2 x 50m abseils on the right bank of the couloir, a further one from a rock island in the middle of the couloir and a final 30m abseil on the left bank brings you to the foot of the route.
1) 3, 60m. Climb the ramp easily on snowy mixed ground and cross onto the right before coming back left where it widens. Stay on the left and climb a short mixed step to reach a bolt and some slings around a block.
2) 3+, 40m. Continue with slightly more difficulty (but still on steady ground) up a right-leaning gully which leads to a large slab. Carry on rightwards past the foot of the slab and 5m further up to reach a peg and bolt belay.
3) 5, 55m. Climb the stunning icy runnel to the right of the slab to where it is capped by a blocky overhang. Step left and turn the overhang on the left (crux) before continuing up the right-leaning icy runnel above. Climb this for 15m to a snowy col and a bolt/peg belay.
4) 5, 50m. Step right from the belay and make a couple of mixed moves to gain the icy runnel above. Climb this and then make a mantelshelf move left into another runnel. Follow this to it's top and then step left into and through a cave and some tenuous feeling mixed moves to a bolt belay. Don't be tempted out rightwards by the snowy gully near the top of this pitch, it is much harder than it looks...
5) 2, 15m. Move left around the corner and climb the snow slope to reach the Arête des Cosmiques. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Gully line just left of Perroux profit gully on the NW face, starting as for that route. Great climbing with some short tricky mixed sections to M5+

Ticklists

Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter, Alpine Dreamz, European Ice Climbing

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 10 Apr AltLd O/S
Ulgrid 29 Mar AltLd
Hidden ?Mar, 2018 -
jon@asgardbeyond.is 20 Mar, 2017 Lead
with Freskur
with Freskur
monkeymatt 10 Feb, 2017 -
Hidden 5 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 28 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Mint
with Miles
Mint
with Miles
Petarghh 21 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with nv
with nv
Hidden 21 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Pina 20 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Possibly some tough conditions at the cruxes (no reference to compare that to though). Ice is fine and climbs well. Aerated in bits so not always good for screws. Gully for ab in is banked out so hard to find some of the in situ points.
Possibly some tough conditions at the cruxes (no reference to compare that to though). Ice is fine and climbs well. Aerated in bits so not always good for screws. Gully for ab in is banked out so hard to find some of the in situ points.
Brian Pollock 20 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Tres bon. Probably VI 6 on the day. Big ice plug on the crux added some spice.
with Pina
Tres bon. Probably VI 6 on the day. Big ice plug on the crux added some spice.
with Pina
scorpia97 19 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Amazing route, even got a knee bar in the cave! Fairly lean with a covering of powder so feeling slightly scottish. Although the squeeze under the rock was blocked out so had to climb around the outside. Longer write up here: http://chasingmastery.com/vent-du-dragon-a-mixture-of-ice-mixed-and-swimming/
Amazing route, even got a knee bar in the cave! Fairly lean with a covering of powder so feeling slightly scottish. Although the squeeze under the rock was blocked out so had to climb around the outside. Longer write up here: http://chasingmastery.com/vent-du-dragon-a-mixture-of-ice-mixed-and-swimming/
stanleynkk 7 Mar, 2016 AltLd
Richard Kendrick 7 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
Jack Geldard ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden 17 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Oct, 2015 AltLd
joelevanschamonix 14 Jun, 2015 2nd
with Tim Oliver
with Tim Oliver
C Mclean 29 Apr, 2015 AltLd
with Harry Mcghie
with Harry Mcghie
Misha 8 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
with walts4
with walts4
walts4 8 Apr, 2015 AltLd
with Misha
with Misha
Hidden 23 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S
engelsk_chica 12 Mar, 2015 2nd β Climbed with Seb, very cold but great fun!
Climbed with Seb, very cold but great fun!
Hidden 1 Nov, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 28 Oct, 2014 AltLd β
James Smith 27 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S Amazing weather and great conditions made for a top day out. The squeeze under the roof felt like being back in Scotland!
with geoff, dan
Amazing weather and great conditions made for a top day out. The squeeze under the roof felt like being back in Scotland!
with geoff, dan
Dan0Me 27 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S Excellent condition. Really fun route, made it to the lift with 10mins to spare
with James Smith, Geoff P
Excellent condition. Really fun route, made it to the lift with 10mins to spare
with James Smith, Geoff P
Hidden 18 Oct, 2014 AltLd
Dave Searle 15 Oct, 2014 AltLd
with Stu Mcaleese
with Stu Mcaleese
ndraper1 7 Oct, 2014 - perfect conditions. Made it to the lift with 90 seconds to spare!
perfect conditions. Made it to the lift with 90 seconds to spare!
dan-8990 6 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
with SW
with SW
Steve Wakeford 6 Oct, 2014 AltLd Electrocuted my crampons going off the midi bridge, thank god for rubber soles. Crackin day out. Excellent condition. Busy day on the face and rappels, made it back to last bin with 1 min to spare. That's twice in a week.
with Dan Commander, ndraper1
Electrocuted my crampons going off the midi bridge, thank god for rubber soles. Crackin day out. Excellent condition. Busy day on the face and rappels, made it back to last bin with 1 min to spare. That's twice in a week.
with Dan Commander, ndraper1
jimmatthews 5 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S Good condition. Hilarious moves in and around the roof on 3rd pitch.
Good condition. Hilarious moves in and around the roof on 3rd pitch.
Hidden 5 Oct, 2014 AltLd rpt
James Gordon ?Oct, 2014 -
Hidden 26 Sep, 2014 AltLd dnf
Hidden 21 Sep, 2014 Lead
Ewan Russell 3 Jul, 2014 Lead Amazing pitches 3 and 4. Hardest thing I have tried to lead. Not done with style. Spent 40 minutes tring to squeeze through squeeze hole. There was ice on crux.
with kelly_426, LDudill, Tom Nichols
Amazing pitches 3 and 4. Hardest thing I have tried to lead. Not done with style. Spent 40 minutes tring to squeeze through squeeze hole. There was ice on crux.
with kelly_426, LDudill, Tom Nichols
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 AltLd
simon_D 6 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Good ice and pro on the rock, crux hqd no ice on the slab so we went straight over at about M4+...comedy abseil off the midi bridge!
with Edvin
Good ice and pro on the rock, crux hqd no ice on the slab so we went straight over at about M4+...comedy abseil off the midi bridge!
with Edvin
alpinestar_no1 16 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Super nice route, we had great conditions on it. We where delayed on the absail in as a heli was dropping off material on the bridge. But we just made the last bin down after all. Great day out!
with Jakob Fisker
Super nice route, we had great conditions on it. We where delayed on the absail in as a heli was dropping off material on the bridge. But we just made the last bin down after all. Great day out!
with Jakob Fisker
ndraper1 1 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S A wriggly route. We got stuck behind a spanish team taking muchos seista's all the way up which slowed our progress massively. What ice is there is good, but otherwise dry and sugary snow. Mainly used rock pro(large cams useful)only placed about 3/4 screws on whole route. Good fun in a great position.
A wriggly route. We got stuck behind a spanish team taking muchos seista's all the way up which slowed our progress massively. What ice is there is good, but otherwise dry and sugary snow. Mainly used rock pro(large cams useful)only placed about 3/4 screws on whole route. Good fun in a great position.
chapmand 1 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
vegarye 30 Mar, 2014 -
darcan 30 Mar, 2014 AltLd
with vegarye
with vegarye
Alasdair Fulton 17 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S Still enough ice, fairly straightforward so not M5, maybe M4/m4+?
Still enough ice, fairly straightforward so not M5, maybe M4/m4+?
Ross Barnes 17 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
GraMc 19 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S Great climbing, mabey about scottish V/VIish. Had to be in work at 4pm, so left john and rory at the top of the route and soloed the rest of the cosmiques as fast as possible. The crux wall of cosmiques was surpisingly difficult in winter
with irish john, rory
Great climbing, mabey about scottish V/VIish. Had to be in work at 4pm, so left john and rory at the top of the route and soloed the rest of the cosmiques as fast as possible. The crux wall of cosmiques was surpisingly difficult in winter
with irish john, rory
Hidden 19 Feb, 2014 AltLd
niallsash ?Jan, 2014 -
QuentinSu ?Nov, 2013 -
Graeme Barr 24 Oct, 2013 2nd
with Rob
with Rob
Hidden 9 Oct, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 7 Oct, 2013 -
danJBA 30 Sep, 2013 AltLd
with Kayan
with Kayan
Kayan 30 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with danJBA
with danJBA
David Horwood 20 Sep, 2013 -
Hidden 2 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 2 Jul, 2013 Lead
with AshwinT
with AshwinT
Hidden 9 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
James Thacker ??, 2013 -
David Horwood 21 Apr, 2009 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Apr, 2008 Lead
with David Horwood
with David Horwood
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