UKC

Rockfax Description
120m. This route takes the shallow trough as for Milky Way, then follows a groove line which slants up right. Start up the trough to near its top, then trend right and follow the groove which abuts a steep wall. This is excellent when icy and leads to the buttress crest. Another groove just on its right is technically harder (IV,5 or IV,6) but better protected, a better choice under powder. Finish as for Central Crack Route on the left of the conspicuous upper wall. The cornice may be large. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs, The Great Gumclub Ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Cloverleaf 07/Jan Lead

Cathy's first proper winter climb. A stunning day made up for a bit of waiting around for other parties. Lots of powder in the first and last pitches, although some bomber neve deep down if you did the digging for it. Middle pitch was really steady but enjoyable 3D climbing with hooks where you wanted them.

with Cathy A
neal 09/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Led P2 (1st pitch of Andromeda after leaving Milky Way). Some good climbing up through the chimneys. Nice route, surprisingly good nick, frozen turf and a bit of ice. Quite a bit of powder and spindrift of course.

with Stuart Mcleod
wheelsucker 19/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
Dougbart 19/Nov/17 AltLd
with Adrian
Hidden 18/Nov/17 AltLd rpt
davidsouthgate 18/Nov/17 2nd
Robertgiddy 18/Nov/17 2nd

Reasonable nick, didn't think much of the route itself

with David, Iain
BIain 18/Nov/17 Lead O/S
andrzej kierzek 19/Feb/17 Lead rpt

Did it again to lead crux pitch. Led all pitches this time.

with Kj
Hidden 04/Feb/17 AltLd
Hidden 04/Feb/17 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jan/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
DundeeDave 02/Jan/17 2nd
with Pete (Ewan's pal), Ewan Gourlay
HaddRoots 19/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
with Nathan
Nathan Adam 19/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

IV,5 on the day, involved all sorts of squirming and bridging to get through the little chimney groove. An excellent route!

CaelanB 09/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

great route, had to do a fair amount of digging, Though otherwise in good nic, I agree with the consensus of it being a hard IV,4.

with ben gibson
Hidden 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/16 Lead
pingora 02/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
with Shaun R
JoeSchamp 24/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Hardest ever lead!

with Ed Watson
Neil D 09/Jan/16 Lead O/S

Took harder variant P2, which was hard work under powder! Big cornice.

Hidden ??/2016 -
joe king 28/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with steve pettit
steveP 28/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
andrzej kierzek 21/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

I did easy pitches 1 and 3. Seconded crux pitch 2.

Hidden 16/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
SteveJCox 14/Feb/15 Lead O/S
SteveJCox 14/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/15 2nd
rob16 11/Feb/15 AltLd
with Matt Brook
Hidden 03/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jan/15 AltLd
alasdair19 ??/2015 -
connor 16/Dec/14 AltLd

With will

Big Lee 18/Jan/14 Lead O/S

Wild conditions. White out with high winds. Difficulty even finding the crag. Main pitch was banked out and icy. Tech 4 but no gear for 40m after the initial peg on the right. Easily V 4. Cornices started collapsing everywhere towards the top of the route. Including a large one that I was belaying directly beneath, which struck my partner on the lower belay. Fell through a cornice 60m whilst skirting West trying to descend from the plateau. Fortunately I was a long way beyond Number 4 Buttress. Epic!

annak 18/Jan/14 2nd O/S
John Workman 09/Nov/13 Lead

Central groove option. Quite tricky under early season powder.

with Chris D
Steven Andrews 19/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Thanks to those who burrowed a way out

with Ben Tibbetts
Hidden 12/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
The Grist 12/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Nick Allsop, Sam Simpson
Anna_wells 04/Nov/12 -
with TIM
Tim_Gomersall 04/Nov/12 AltLd
with ANNA
Hidden 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
michael83 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
cjb1992 04/Jan/12 2nd dog

Terrifying. First winter climb.

with Sam
Hidden 02/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
JdotP 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Vertical ice through the cornice!

with Ondrej Mandula
benjaminireland 29/Jan/11 2nd O/S

Did The IV,6 variation. Bomber Neve

with William Hawkins
The Bad Cough 29/Jan/11 2nd O/S
with Christian Minett, John Sealey
John sealey 29/Jan/11 Lead
willhawkins 29/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Took the IV,6 variation. Total lack of any obvious gear, very run-out and sketchy!

Piers Harley 22/Jan/11 AltLd

excellent!

with Jeremy Windsor
Hidden 05/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
2ba 02/Jan/11 AltLd
with Stewart, Brian Shackleton, Don Bisset, Gav Swinton
peebles boy ?/Jan/11 2nd
Drew M ?/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
MarkDavies36 ?/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Harling
Hidden 20/Dec/09 Lead
wence 13/Dec/09 2nd
with Duncan
decs 13/Dec/09 Lead

One well protceted awkward move.

with Lawrence
Hidden 12/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
abbeywall 12/Dec/09 AltLd

led 1 and 2, K 3 and 4

with K
Hidden 09/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
joe larner 09/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
HimTiggins 29/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
with Amanda, Alan
WilliamBurnside 28/Nov/09 AltLd

Good route, turf frozen where needed, bit of build up would make crux easier.

with B Strachan
Hidden 07/Nov/09 2nd
Captain Solo 29/Mar/09 AltLd
with Hebe
Hidden 07/Mar/09 AltLd
gaz.marshall 07/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with Steev & Richard
Jim Haydock 05/Mar/09 2nd

2nd day of guides assessment - Graeme Ettle assessing.

with Mark Walker & Graeme Ettle
Skinny Kin 20/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Very good and technical 2nd pitch when it was lean. Richard said it was as hard as IV, 6 he did.

with Rich Pow
simon_D 16/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Dan
prwalker 14/Jan/09 AltLd

Led the first pitch up the 'milky way' and last run out onto plateau. Cornice small and solid. Seconded cruz pitch 2. Very cold, clear and crisp day.

with Helena Robinson
Jamie Simpson ??/2009 -
jamestheyip 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
with Carlos
Ian Parnell 27/Oct/08 AltLd
with Jon Winter
Hidden 15/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Neil Mackenzie 01/Mar/08 AltLd
with Andy
andymoin 01/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Took the central grove and had to dig out a few feet of powder on the way up. Felt very hard and more like V,5, great moves especially in the upper chimney.

Hidden ?/Mar/08 Lead
rob1 20/Jan/08 AltLd
with Tom Martin
Chris(cface!) ??/2008 -
Alasdair Fulton 02/Dec/07 AltLd

Took the central grove, which was a bit spicy for IV 4!

Ross Barnes 02/Dec/07 AltLd
with Ally
gregor ?/Nov/07 -
HIGHTOWER 14/Mar/07 2nd
with Clive
KeithW 03/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Led 1st, soft conditions, took ages. Steve got the top pitch & cornice, unstable snow, very insecure. Hardest winter climb I've ever done!

with SteveM
Hidden 20/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
rob k ?/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
with R Marson
andyinglis 05/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
with scotty burnett
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 21/Dec/04 AltLd O/S
niall_mac ?/Nov/04 AltLd
with Mark R
Jamie B ?/Mar/04 AltLd

Horrendous conditions; deluged in spindrift throughout.

with Simon Franks
nickdonohue ?/Jan/04 AltLd
with Mark McCarthy
Hidden 17/Feb/02 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/02 AltLd O/S
orb ?/Feb/02 2nd
with Phil Worgan, ?
bandersnatch ?/Feb/01 AltLd
with Brian Hume
Hidden ??/2000 -
ArnaudG ?/Jan/99 -
with Jon
Yourlead 22/Mar/92 2nd
with Graham Penny
Lone Rider ??/1992 AltLd
with Ian Milne
Hidden 14/Dec/89 AltLd
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 22
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set